It appears to be that it would've been helpful if we had paid attention to a prior discussion found here?
So the very last reply by StuartBaker104 Has what I think is the solution to the problem. If you enter the case number in a variety of databases the decimal point isn't really a decimal point is just a separator and you need four digits. If you don't specify What the fourth digit is the various databases will fill in a number. So we had assumed that case number 166.026 was the same as 166.0260 just because we found parts for it but it is obviously not the correct case number. So for instance in the above discussion I found a link to Omega with the case number but we weren't paying attention because the movement was wrong and of course they filled in the fourth digit which is also wrong. So if you go to Omega with what we perceive is the correct case number we get the following link which seems to have the right movement?
The only problem is the dimensions do not appear to be correct for the crystal?
GLASS PLEXI 2N RING D32.94 H4.9
063 DIAMETER D1 :32.94 MM
063 EYEGLASS :WIHTOUT
063 HEIGHT TOTAL H1 :4.90 MM
063 PROFILE :CONCAVE
063 SHAPE :ROUND
063 TYPE :UNICOQUE
DIAM OF THE GLASS SEATING D2 :32.80 MM
Interesting, it reminds me of some of the more basic Junhans movements.
What size is it?
Are there any numbers under the balance or on any of the plates?
Does the dial give any clues, for example is it Swiss?
It’s been a while since I last tempted you with a movement id question, but here we go again...
Found this rather unusual movement in an old tank style watch. At first I thought it would be a cheap pin lever but at closer look, it’s a decently jewelled regular swiss lever.
Still rather ”cost concious” design, in my eyes. But it actually runs (sometimes and a bit sluggish) so I will put it through the cleaning procedure and see where it ends as the case, dial and hands are in pretty good condition.
Curious about the movement though and appreciate any hints.
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I was looking at a couple of watches last night, and at lunch time today. One of them was a "Veranda" 17 jewel EB8800 based pocket watch probably from the mid 1970s judging by the design.
There is nothing particularly remarkable about this watch, or the process of fixing it, but I thought I'd share a couple of time graph results, just to show the importance of allowing things to settle down after cleaning, in order to best judge the effect of your efforts.
This particular mechanism was stripped, cleaned and re-assembled at lunch time today, and once it was all back together I immediately stuck it on the time grapher to see if it was running acceptably well.
This is what I saw with it fully wound, dial up at around 13:00 - not bad, considering the fact that that there was evidence that the watch had taken a serious knock, which had jammed everything up, prior to it coming in to my possession. The dots for the "tick" and "tock" are following a nice straight line, with no real deviation. The rate is a little fast, and the beat error is slightly high, but we can attend to those two minor issues later.
This is exactly the same watch in the same position fully wound once more, at 20:00 after all of the lubrication has had a chance to get to work. As you can see, the swing has improved substantially. The rate is still slightly fast, and the beat error is still slightly high, but for now, I'll just carry it around with me to see that it runs consistently.
Naturally the case, crystal, dial and hands all got a thorough cleaning too.
The back of the case polished up so well that you can see your face in it.
I wont touch anything in the watch mechanism again till some time tomorrow, probably after it has ben run for at least 24hrs, otherwise I might actually make matters worse, rather than better, as there is every chance that the rate will have changed slightly as the running gets a little smoother.
The improvement is often that the rate slows down slightly and the swing angle increases. However if the rate increases and the beat error or the swing angle gets worse, then this may indicate that some oil has migrated to places where we don't want it, for example the hairspring.
One thing this game teaches you above all else. Patience is most definitely a virtue when it comes to fixing old watches.
Wow, I am so unlucky then. So it’s very hard to find seal barrel mainspring to replace it? And I will remove the jump click and check on that area. Everything from that clicker and days’ teeth looking flat no wobble at all. I will look into these area when I get home today. Thank you all for suggestions about mainspring too. Stay safe y’all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk