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Watch Repairs Help & Advice


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  1. Watch Case Issues, Opening, Movement/Stem Removal, Case Parts, straps and bracelets

    Discussing issues regarding the watch case including Opening, Closing, Movement Removal, Stem Removal, Pushers, Pendant Tubes etc...
    You can also discuss subjects relating to watch straps and bracelets here.

    4.7k
    posts
  2. New to watch repair ** Safe Zone For Learner Watch Repairers **

    Discussing subjects relating to learner watch repairers.
    More experienced repairers - please guide learners with patience and respect 🙏

    9.6k
    posts
  3. Regulation, Watch Performance and Timing Machine (Timegrapher) Readings/Results

    Discuss general regulation techniques, watch performance issues and your timing machine readings (traces).
    Balance Wheel Adjustment, Hairspring Adjustment, Regulating Watches, Setting Watches in Beat, Lift Angle

    3.1k
    posts
  4. Service, Repair & Adjustment Techniques (Not Timing or Regulation)

    Discussing subjects relating to servicing, making adjustments and repairs to watch parts and movements and fitting balance staffs. This section is not for timing or regulation discussion. To discuss Regulation or Timing please go here.

    6.8k
    posts
  5. Cleaning / De-Greasing Techniques - including cleaning products

    Discussing cleaning and de-greasing of watch movements including products used

    1.4k
    posts
  6. Fault Finding / Fault Diagnosis

    Discuss fault finding. Post here for advise diagnosing any watch movement issues.

    3.2k
    posts
  7. Restoration Techniques - Polishing, Refinishing, Bluing, Rust, etc..

    Dealing with all subjects relating to watch restoration techniques such as Rust Removal, Bluing, Refinishing etc...

    2.3k
    posts
  8. Lubrication Techniques, Oils, Greases, Epilame Treatments

    Discussing lubrication techniques, oils and greases to use and Epilame treatment.

    1.7k
    posts
  9. Quartz and Tuning Fork Battery Operated Watches

    Discussing quartz and tuning fork watch movements

    1.2k
    posts
  10. Shock Settings - Incablock, Diashock - Fitting/Adjusting Jewels, etc..

    Discussing shock settings such as Incabloc and Diashock etc..
    Fitting and the adjustment of Jeweled Bearings, Pallet Stones, Impulse Jewels

    966
    posts
  11. Identify This Movement or Watch

    Need help identifying a watch movement? Please use this section.

    2.7k
    posts
  12. Watch Parts, Sourcing Parts, Movements, Materials and Lubrication Products

    Discussing watch parts, the sourcing of watch parts and movements, and products required to repair and service watch movements

    4.1k
    posts
  13. Documentation, Books & Service Sheets

    Discussing watch repair documentation, books, parts lists and service sheets

    407
    posts

8985 topics in this forum

  1. Sourcing hairspring 1 2 3 4

    • 80 replies
    • 24.2k views
  2. 0S60 Miyota 1 2

    • 36 replies
    • 24.2k views
  3. Regulating 7s26-36

    • 19 replies
    • 23.9k views
  4. Eta 2824-2

    • 19 replies
    • 23.8k views
    • 21 replies
    • 23.8k views
    • 11 replies
    • 23.5k views
    • 53 replies
    • 23.4k views
  5. Omega 1337 Movement 1 2

    • 29 replies
    • 23.4k views
    • 37 replies
    • 23.2k views
    • 14 replies
    • 23.1k views
  6. Beat error 1 2

    • 31 replies
    • 22.9k views
    • 3 replies
    • 22.8k views
    • 29 replies
    • 22.7k views
    • 11 replies
    • 22.7k views
    • 51 replies
    • 22.7k views
    • 9 replies
    • 22.6k views
  7. Timex M24 fast 1 2 3

    • 71 replies
    • 22.3k views
  8. Girard Perregaux C641 Quartz Movement 1 2 3

    • 60 replies
    • 22.2k views
    • 9 replies
    • 22.2k views
    • 17 replies
    • 22.2k views
    • 14 replies
    • 22.1k views
    • 3 replies
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    • 16 replies
    • 21.9k views
  9. When to Service or Regulate 1 2 3

    • 50 replies
    • 21.7k views
    • 19 replies
    • 21.7k views
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • …I guess my friend’s dad was duped…and by a Rolex dealer… …well, it’s a good fake 🤪 even the box and palers looks legit…  
    • I believe what were talking about here is missing or lack of documentation and what is taught in schools still not quite sure how they compare? So let's explain the similarities. So yes technical documentation versus the schools can explain how to lubricate what lubrication's etc. So yes basically that would be the same or could be the same and how to clean and lubricate the watch. As were discussing 3135 I needed to do a little bit of research. It appears to be it came into existence in 1988 was manufactured for 34 years and came to an end in 2022. Interesting problem would be watch manufactured over 34 years with a change the servicing procedure, perhaps discover it was not perfect upgrade or change components, discovered that there watchmakers perhaps didn't understand things and give you helpful suggestions wonderful Rolex would do any of that stuff? Then if they did and they did have upgrade components how would we know? This is where supplemental documentation would be nice if we could get it because basically putting a paper bag over your head and saying I can't see the problem that means it doesn't exist may not always work for all watches. Who knows maybe even this watch is broken because somebody didn't read the service manual As they didn't have it and didn't do things the way they were supposed to or maybe there was an update that wasn't done. Oh and @VWatchie  Nice pictures as usual I would like to make a request can you get me a picture of the backside of the dial of this watch?  
    • You are absolutely right! Do not risk too much! You could heat the gear up and melt a plastic lever on. Might be better than any 3D-printed tool.
    • In my daily work as a .NET teacher and programmer, I use ChatGPT all the time, and it works beyond all expectations. It's mind-blowingly good! So, am I a fool to ask ChatGPT about the Calibre 3135 I'm currently working on? Well, I did, and I'm in shock. Please let me know what you think. Is ChatGPT simply shooting from the hip, or could there be even a sliver of truth behind its bold claims? For example, it claims it sees Incabloc, but we can clearly see KIF. However, overall, ChatGPT is clearly negative to the movement in the images I uploaded (see below). I still think I'm working on a genuine 3135, but I'm not sure I'm going to sleep very well tonight. Sure, it's not my watch, but I just hate clones. You said: I'm servicing and repairing a Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. However, on the movement cal. 3135, I have found some blued screws, for example holding the date indicator seating in place. As far as I know, Rolex never use blued screws. Could this be a fake/clone movement? Would a picture help? ChatGPT said: Yes, a picture would definitely help—please upload a clear, close-up photo of the blued screws and the surrounding components. That will make it easier to assess whether the movement is genuine or a clone. You're absolutely right that Rolex does not use blued screws in the 3135 movement or any modern movement. Their screws are typically polished steel, sometimes rhodium-plated, but never heat-blued like you’d find in vintage pocket watches or some decorative movements. If you're seeing bright blue or deep purple screws, that's highly suspicious. Here are a few possibilities: Aftermarket modification – Someone may have serviced the movement and replaced original screws with decorative ones (unusual and bad practice for a Rolex). Parts swap – It's possible the movement has been assembled from mixed sources, using parts from clones or aftermarket kits. Clone movement – Some high-end replica watches use cloned 3135 movements with visible differences, and blued screws are a common telltale sign in fakes. Chinese “Super Clone” movements – These often mimic the 3135 quite closely but include blue screws and other subtle giveaways like inferior finishing, incorrect jewel placement, or engraving differences. If you can, try to also capture: The engravings under the balance wheel (bridge number). The layout of the automatic winding bridge. Any serial or caliber markings. Would you like a side-by-side comparison checklist between a genuine 3135 and a common clone? You said: ChatGPT said: Thanks for the excellent photos. Based on what I can see: 1. Blued Screws (First Image) The screws are clearly heat-blued, not chemically colored or anodized. These are not standard for any Rolex 3135 component—Rolex does not use blued screws in modern movements, especially not for the date indicator seating. This alone is a major red flag. 2. Movement Plate (Second Image) The finishing is quite neat at first glance, with perlage (circular graining) that mimics Rolex’s 3135 layout. However, several things suggest this movement is not a genuine Rolex 3135: 🔍 Notable signs of a likely clone: The perlage is too uniform and "machine-perfect"; Rolex finishing is more subtly varied. The bridge edges are not properly beveled or polished—Rolex does this meticulously. The screw heads are mirror-polished, but the slots show machining burrs and inconsistency, which would never pass Rolex QC. Blued screws are visible on the lower plate (again: never used by Rolex). The gearwork (e.g., date jumper and star wheel) looks coarser than the precision finishing expected from a 3135. Tentative conclusion: This movement appears to be a high-quality clone of the Rolex 3135—possibly from a replica Sea-Dweller 16600. These clones are sometimes called “super clones” or “3135 look-alikes,” and some are visually quite convincing until you inspect the movement up close, as you've done. Next Steps: If you want to confirm definitively, here’s what you can do: Check the balance cock engraving (should say "3135" and have the Rolex crown). Inspect the mainplate under the dial for “Rolex” markings and engravings—genuine ones are laser-etched. Look under the rotor (if still attached)—genuine rotors have distinct Rolex markings and finish. Would you like a close visual comparison between this and a confirmed authentic 3135 movement? You said: If I upload a picture of the rotor (underside) can you help me assess if it's real or fake? ChatGPT said: Absolutely—please go ahead and upload the picture of the rotor (underside). I’ll compare it against known details from genuine Rolex 3135 rotors and highlight any inconsistencies that may point to it being fake or aftermarket. You said: ChatGPT said: Thanks. This underside view of the rotor reveals clear signs that this is not a genuine Rolex 3135 rotor: Key indicators of a fake or clone rotor: 1. Rotor Weight Design The Rolex 3135 rotor has a solid bimetal construction: a 22k gold outer weight laser-welded to a nickel base. This one appears to be entirely steel-colored—no trace of gold, and the weight appears milled rather than bonded. That’s a strong sign it’s not genuine. 2. Milling Marks and Finishing The milling marks on your rotor are radial and rough, typical of CNC-machined clone parts. A genuine 3135 rotor shows: A clean, uniform satin finish. High polish or precise bead blasting on the weight. No machining burrs or uneven edges, unlike the rotor here, especially near the slots and screw holes. 3. Engraving and Lack of Markings The underside of a genuine Rolex 3135 rotor typically includes: Reference numbers. Rolex hallmarks or laser-engraved stamps, sometimes extremely fine. Your rotor is completely void of any markings—very unusual for Rolex, which tends to over-brand even internal components. 4. Bearing Assembly The central bearing looks relatively crude. On genuine 3135 rotors, the bearing is: Press-fit with high precision, often with fine polishing. Shows signs of superior finishing under magnification. This rotor’s bearing finish and installation quality are more consistent with aftermarket or replica manufacture. Verdict: This rotor is not from a genuine Rolex 3135 movement. It's very likely from a clone movement, possibly Chinese (like those found in Noob, VSF, or other high-end replica factories). Combined with the blued screws and other finishing signs, I’d say the movement as a whole is a well-made but fake 3135 clone. Thanks—this is a great view of the movement’s watchmaker side, and it gives us a lot more to work with. Here’s what stands out: 1.  Balance Bridge & Screws •    The balance bridge and its geometry look broadly similar to a genuine 3135, but: o    The screws holding the bridge are flat-slotted instead of Rolex’s usual Polished Torx-style (star) screws, which are a major hallmark. o    The finishing on the bridge lacks the ultra-fine beveling and high polish Rolex applies. 2.  Shock Protection •    The balance jewel cap looks like a standard Incabloc-style system, not Rolex’s proprietary KIF shock protection, which is standard on the 3135. 3.  Engraving & Surface Finish •    The “3135” engraving appears rough and shallow—on genuine movements, it’s deeper, more precise, and often filled with gold paint or ink. •    The general brushing and perlage across plates lacks the consistency and sharpness Rolex is known for. 4.  General Layout •    While the gear train layout and architecture are visually close, the bridge shapes, cutouts, and certain edges are just slightly off in ways that a trained eye will spot. These are typically clone-level approximations.   Final Verdict: This movement is not a genuine Rolex Caliber 3135. It’s a high-quality clone, very likely of Chinese origin (often from factories that make replica ETA clones or “Super Clone” Rolex movements). These clones can be surprisingly accurate in dimensions and layout but deviate in key finishing and technical details like: •    Shock system (no KIF) •    Screw styles •    Engraving quality •    Finishing consistency   You said: On a scale between 1 and 10, where 1 means "not sure at all" and 10 means "99.9 % sure", how sure are you about the assements you've just made? ChatGPT said: Great question. Based on the clear photographic evidence and known characteristics of Rolex cal. 3135 components, my confidence level is a solid 9.5 out of 10.
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