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transporter last won the day on May 6 2017

transporter had the most liked content!

About transporter

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  1. Cheers for the replies guys, I was wondering if I was being to heavy handed, I was taught by my father how to use a lathe many years ago (machinist) that obviously had a cross slide on it. Never once did a dull a tool on that. I think I will try some of the carbide gravers and see how they fair, I think I’ve had enough practice on sharpening gravers now
  2. Ok guys, I’m struggling abit here with my gravers. I start on a course (ish) stone, then onto a fine oil stone then onto Arkansas stone, all using 3 in 1 oil as lube, I get reasonable results, very sharp but only for about 5 -10 minutes of work on blued steel. Not working them hard either, just getting a little despondent with the amount of time im sharpening as to time spent turning. How do you sharpen and how long does the sharpness stay??
  3. I believe you present the barrel to the winder in your hand with the mainspring already on the winder and you feed/guide the mainspring into the barrel with a finger whilst winding.
  4. That made no sense at all mate. For a mainspring you can remove by hand, and you are correct with the grease and light oiling. As for putting the mainspring back in the barrel, I generally put mine in by hand but I also have a number of mainspring winders, no matter how I put them in the barrel I always wear either finger cots or latex gloves. These stop your hands getting greasy but more importantly stop contamination of the mainspring from the oils in your skin.
  5. Haha, just followed your link, well I was way off, seriously I would buy that watch from amazon and swap the movements out. I’ll tell you now this hobby can get very expensive so for that money I’d get it
  6. Don’t get despondent mate, keep at it, I haven’t looked at your link yet but am I correct in thinking that the movement you are working on is a dg2813, a standard 21j Chinese movement that can be picked up for around £20 complete.
  7. Missed out on one of these at an auction as they wouldn’t post it due to its weight
  8. Nice one, I’ve found with cousins that their online catalogue doesn’t seem to have everything on it, I use the hard copy to source a lot of spares
  9. Not a problem my friend, saves you a few quid until you really need a camera. Ive got a Chinese microscope, Cost under £40 and you can add an sd card to it so you can take pictures and save them. There is a post about somewhere on here.
  10. Sorry, I thought you just wanted to cut the centre out of the dial to expose the movement, like some of the modern Rotary gents watches
  11. You could try in a lathe, that’s where I would start , at least then you can get a nice clean cut
  12. Mate that is really good, I take it illustrator is a wonderfully expensive program ( like my photo shop ) or a it? how easy is it to use, that dial looks great and I’m very interested to see how this turns out.
  13. And this is the reason I stopped doing favours for people and their old watches, I had one not so long ago that I eventually spent about 6 weeks working on it, spent about £100 trying to source parts ( old cylinder movement ) and in the end only got it semi working, very frustrating and added pressure to ones life. But nice job done there mate, I’ll jump on the side shake train of thought and new jewel required.
  14. Stick a loup to your phone camera lens, trust me it works a treat
  15. I’m afraid my friend unless you get yourself a very expensive binocular style microscope you are as we all are, the rule of thumb is a 10x loup will be 1” away from the job so a 4x loup will have you 4” away from the watch. i personally use a Bergeon 4.5x loup, i also have a 5x and 10x for really close in work. I have a high bench so it lessons the neck strain. Time to saw the legs off your chair or get a few wooden blocks under the table legs to raise it up. you could also build a small box that sits on the bench that will raise your work area, I think horolover made one but they were really expensive for what they were.
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