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dadistic

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dadistic last won the day on July 22 2018

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About dadistic

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  1. Am I seeing correctly, is that escape wheel missing a pivot?
  2. I think they are nice enough, and I almost pulled the trigger on a Marlin when they first came out. Decided I would stick with the originals, didn't need a reissue. Especially a $250 one. Now, if they were $29.95 .....................
  3. That would be me :-) What is posted is mostly what was on the old Timex forum, with some additions by me from info that I've accumulated. I know it's incomplete, but it's all I've been able to round up so far. Happy to include any info that's not there, contributions welcome! Cheers
  4. Do what you can within your budget, lots of people on this forum do quite a bit without a lot of expensive tools. It's worth investing in the basics like good screwdrivers & tweezers, and leave the rest for the future. Most of the skills you need to learn at the start don't require the most expensive tools. For example, I still don't have a lathe, although I really should. Good luck!
  5. This is a question that comes up often in the art world, too. Use your favorite search engine and search for "Conservation vs Restoration" and you'll find some interesting info.
  6. The 2850 tech sheet covers the 2879. ETA 2850,1,2,3,8 etc.pdf
  7. A staking tool is used for riveting types of operations, you whack a punch with a small hammer, and voila! You don't really want to do that when removing, inserting, or adjusting jewels. So a jeweling tool is made to smoothly push jewels, and to do that accurately. Some staking sets have jeweling attachments that allow you to do both things, but people often find that it is worth it to have a specialized tool for jeweling work. Cheers!
  8. Greetings and Salutations - If you have some cranky quartz watches, you should be able to find the help here that you need to bring them back to good cheer. Have fun!
  9. I actually have some bronze tweezers, for me they hold up a bit better than brass, but have similar non-scratch qualities. But I am a non-professional, and I have to protect my poor watches from my clumsiness :-) I think it's worth trying as many types as is feasible for you, it's interesting how different various tweezers can feel and behave as you use them. Tweezers inevitably fall pointy end down, bends the tips on brass every time, bronze sometimes, fancy steel usually survives. That's a good thing, as I don't relish the idea of trying to dress my Dumont #5's.
  10. Same answer applies, minus the bit about complications :-) A skilled watchmaker can usually bring a watch back to COSC specs, depending, of course, on the condition of the watch. Even a basket case can sometimes be brought back given sufficient application of currency.
  11. A well maintained watch can last many, many years without loosing their ability to keep time. Servicing on a regular basis is the key. It was not unusual in past decades to have a watch serviced every year. More modern timepieces that are lubricated with modern oils can go much longer, five years is a decent rule of thumb. The problem with *not* servicing a watch is that dirt accumulates in the oil, the oil can also degrade, and if this is not addressed then there will be excessive wear on the parts. Dirty oil can become an abrasive instead of a lubricant :-). Once parts are worn it becomes more difficult if not impossible to bring a watch back to spec, parts might have to be replaced assuming that they can be found. As the number of complications in a watch goes up (i.e. chronograph) , it is even more important that they be attended too, as the basic movement often has to work harder to drive the extra components. I, along with other people here, have watches that are 75, 100, or even more years old, that are perfectly acceptable time keepers. I don't have any old chronographs myself, but I am sure that other people here do. Maybe someone here with an old well running chronograph will chime in! David
  12. You could try Vyco drafting board covering material, it's similar to the green mats sold for watchmaking. Still spendy, though. https://www.draftingsteals.com/catalog-drafting---drawing-equipment-vinyl-board-covers-vinyl-rolls-green-cream-vinyl-rolls.html
  13. The Bergeon micrometer and the Feintaster, even though they look very similar in form, are very different tools. The Bergeon is a screw type micrometer, whereas the Feintaster is more like an indicator, which means less pressure on the part. The Bergeon is the one that risks deformation of small parts unless you have the worlds lightest touch.
  14. I didn't know about that Citizen Jet, thanks for the heads up.
  15. Good to see you here. Just don't get sucked in to any, er, "conversations" about lubrication and all will be well :-) Seriously, we all try very hard to keep this forum friendly and pleasant. Cheers!
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