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dadistic

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dadistic last won the day on July 22

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About dadistic

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    Chicago, Illinois

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  1. dadistic

    Small bench buffer

    Cas-Ker has one that I thought looked interesting. Should mention that I don't have one yet, but it is on the shopping list. https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/benchtop-polisher-470.115.html
  2. I'm not sure that there is an effective cleaner that meets your requirements. Best to not breath the fumes, no matter what it is. Check local regulations as to what can and cannot be disposed of through the sewer. In many places, cleaners and degreasers have to be treated as hazardous waste, which may mean saving the used fluids and dropping them off at a collection point. A great "fume hood" is the exhaust fan found over many stoves and ovens, if you're lucky enough to have such a thing. Otherwise, an open window and a fan might do in a pinch. The jars that I use originally had Newman's Own Salsa in them. Just watch the lids, some cleaners can dissolve the material that's in the cap that's used as a seal.
  3. dadistic

    Good bye

    Thanks @oldhippy, I noticed after I created this post that some changes had happened. I think things will be just fine, and I certainly appreciate all the work that goes into maintaining this forum. Thanks again!
  4. dadistic

    Attaching Balance Wheel Spring

    Yep. I did that, going through that exercise was very much worth it. With repetition, hat seemed impossible at first eventually became just difficult. :-)
  5. dadistic

    regarding automatic mainspring

    Here's how I got to my technique, but remember that I'm an amateur and only work on my own, old, junky watches. I worked from first principles, i.e. what is it I'm trying to accomplish? 1) The coils of a mainspring slide against each other when it is wound and unwound. What can happen is "stiction", sometimes know as sticky friction, which means that the coils will not slide smoothly, but "jump" and then slide. Not good. A very thin film of a high pressure lubricant will prevent this from happening. Why high pressure? There can be a lot of force in a mainspring, those coils can really be pushed together and you want a lubricant that can handle that. I use HP-1300, but that's because I have it, there are other suitable lubricants like the Seiko stuff that has that nasty black goop in it. "Very thin film" is the key here. Just wipe it on. 2) Top and bottom of the barrel can benefit from a bit of lubrication, as the coil edges may be sliding against either. You can often see the evidence of this in older barrels. Again, I use Hp-1300, just a touch. It will spread, but again you only need the thinnest film to do the job. 3) For an automatic, you need something for the barrel wall. Why lube at all? The term is "galling" or adhesion between between the metal of sliding surfaces that causes material to be removed from one and sometimes "stuck" to the other. Dissimilar metals are the worst offenders. It's almost a severe case of "stiction", but the slip only occurs when the metal crystal structure actually breaks and tears. So again, you need a high pressure lubricant to prevent this. BUT in the case of an automatic spring, you WANT the stiction, and you'd like to have some control over it, which is why there are different "braking" greases recommended for different combinations of material. Sometimes in older watches that have DO NOT OPEN barrels and springs you have to experiment to get things right. I have a Bulova with a scalloped barrel wall that is giving me grief right now, buts playing around with it is a great way to learn what works with what. HTH David
  6. dadistic

    Why has the beat error changed ?

    Yikes! That's not good. Glad you mentioned it.
  7. dadistic

    Back to being a member

    Thanks JDM, I've watched you deal unmercifully with spammers, and applauded from my chair. Although I found that I didn't agree with some of your approaches, they where the lesser part of what an admin does, and your constant attention to the forum helped it quite a bit. Admin is a thankless job, and it's not often obvious what goes on until it's not happening anymore. Hope the other admins can take up the slack. Thanks Again!
  8. dadistic

    Good bye

    I personally think it would be much better if there was more restraint shown about moving posts. Moving a newbies post is one thing, but for a long time user to have a post moved is annoying. Not even the courtesy of finding out the users intention, just wham. post moved. It's annoying, and I have enough trouble finding time to participate, and having to deal with these little irritations makes me less likely to make the effort. That's why I don't do posts that take a lot of effort, like walkthroughs, because I know they they won't stay unmolested, regardless of my intentions. This is a solvable problem. Either leave the posts alone, or provide a way that these posts can be built without having to do them in one swell foop. Using too narrow of a definition is not helpful, either. If you want a category of "make-overs" then please provide a place for them. Just be aware that if you go down that road, you will find that you have to move *every* post, and not just the obvious mistakes. People will inevitably gravitate toward the most general category, and pay less and less attention to the sub-forums. More work for the admins. Maybe that's OK, but notice that this forum software wasn't built to be operated that way, and some features will break. It happens now. David
  9. dadistic

    One of those moments...

    Yep, been there done that!
  10. CAS 64742-89-8 is also called Naptha. Commonly available in the U.S. as Varnish Makers & Painters (VM&P) Naptha. It's a petroleum distillate, i.e. distilled from crude oil. Someone familiar with distillation might call it a "cut", or collection at a specific point in the column, that gives it certain properties. It works, I used to use it, but I've since switched to Zenith cleaning and rinsing fluids, and the difference is quite dramatic. I won't be going back.
  11. dadistic

    Bulova 11BLAC parts

    I did one similar recently, and used the presto tool that @clockboy shows to separate the wheels, and then set up my staking set to put them back together again. No problem. If you don't have the tools, then take @anilv's advice, and do the best job you can without taking them apart.
  12. dadistic

    What kind of tool is this?

    The catalog is also available here - https://archive.org/details/20thcenturycatal00purd
  13. dadistic

    What kind of tool is this?

    Well, how's about the 1899 J.H. Purdy Catalog? JHPurdyCatalog.pdf
  14. dadistic

    Oiling advice

    No, the oil will stay on the side of the oiler until you touch the pivot. If the oil is dripping off the oiler, that's way too much. Here's a couple of YouTube videos from OSUIT that I found very helpful.
  15. All I can say is that trade barriers have never worked out well in the past, but we all seem to have to keep learning that same lesson over and over again. Some of us want the best of all possible worlds for everyone, some people want the best of all possible world for themselves and can't or won't see beyond their own self interest. Just another thing that must be endured.
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