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About Shane

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    Watch Enthusiast

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  1. Please do not think I'm being rude or dismissive for not responding. You have all given me some information that must be digested before I can respond with anything remotely resembling an informed opinion and I have not had much free time. I have an inquiry in with watch-o-skope and am waiting to hear back from them before going further. This sounds, for better or worse, as the path that I will try next. Thanks you for your time. Shane
  2. Thanks watchweasol. I will look into them. My frugal nature feels that leveraging something that I already own (my PC) for this task would at least save space if not money. Shane
  3. That is the page I found several days ago based on the markings on the movement. I don't know enough about all the different shock systems to have noticed the differences. I hadn't considered gear to pivot concentricity in something manufactued within a "modern" factory or that it could be off enough to be noticable. I guess tollorences can stack up to produce bad assemblies at times. The changes I saw where synasodel in nature. I was thinking bent piviots but it didn't repeat consistently enough to suggest that any one wheel was a problem. I dismissed the idea of a shock hard enough to
  4. I would like to say that I appreciate all the input. It shows significant interest and willingness to help. Thank you. Yes, I know using an app yelds the lowest quality information from the audible signal possible and are justifiably looked down upon by those with other options. Duley noted. I have always tried to put all the watches I work on visually as close to in beat as possible during their assembly and attempt to confirm it dynamically once running, adjusting if necessary. As previous mentioned, with this ladies Timex, I found it small enough to make this and other efforts dif
  5. The manufacturer was to my knowledge a German company and has a Swiss anchor, a full seventeen jewels, no pins. It's a nice little movement just a bit small for my current skill level. I have had it completely apart and back together before initially posting. Since, I have had the balance and it's jewels out at least twice, shoting the Incabloc clips across the bench at least twice per side on each occurrence. I couldn't see it being a main spring problem since the amplitude didn't change when gently influencing the center wheel so I stripped and cleaned the whole thing again. At each
  6. Apparently the watch I am currently working on is actually a DuRoWe INT 1980. It should run with a beat rate of 21600 but periodically my app incorrectly identifies it as 19800. Since this app doesn't seem to have the ability to determine a watches amplitude, all I can say is that it is osolating quite enthusiastically. I put a dot of magic marker approximately 180 degrees from the balance jewel and it appears to osolate 180+ degrees in both directions from that point. I do know that a subjective observation without being followed by accurate numbers has very little value in trouble shooti
  7. I have a ladies seventeen jewel, spring driven Timex with a dial marking of 6201017178. I am trying to regulate the watch and am finding the auto rate detection function on the software I'm using is having a problem deciding what rate it should be compared against. I have found NO information online supporting a 171 movement. It would be great if someone can shed some light on this movement. I can only get it within about +-20 sec/day before it drastically flips from losing time to gaining substantial time and then I chase it back again. After this happens once or twice, the software seem
  8. Resoldered the wire adding just a dot of silver solder past and a quick reheat. The plastic should be Nylon so I wasn't overly concerned as long as it we out quickly. Recurved the hairspring and it's up and running once again. It now probably needs to be reregulated since it lost the 1.25mm of spring trapped under the retaining pin when the balance was wrenched out but I'll let it run until that happens. HectorLooi, thanks the interaction. JerseyMo, thanks for your input as well. I sent you a private message. VID_20210116_161652~2.mp4
  9. This is the best I could manage with the tools on hand but seems to show a cold joint. My microscope is not accessible at the moment. Once the power stops flickering (Rural New England during a snow storm) and I find a good way to fixture it, I will try a low temperature silver solder past.
  10. I came across these while digging around this evening. I can't remember if these are the only colors I've seen or just what I have now. I am working on the contact in the foreground it has a bad solder joint, possibly from being handled too roughly. The hairspring also needed to be reworked. The reworked parts are not going back into my TimeZone but I would like to try and get the movement I stole the repair parts from ticking again. I will pull these movements apart and get a better look at the contact assemblies in the near future. Thanks.
  11. This seems like a good place to ask this question. I have seen from my recollection this (or very similar) Timex wire/contact assemblies manufactured in different colors. Does any one know what significance if any the color would indicate? PS. Timex spent quite a bit of time ensuring that the force from flexing this wire did not concentrate at the solder joint causing inevitable failure. Good luck. I'm trying to fix one myself. Keep us posted.
  12. FLwatchguy73, no, you didn't come across in a bad way and I hope that my response didn't ether. I know most of my thoughts and interests are just outside what the convention would expect from me. It is just that I wish to know as much as my ability allows and like everyone else, time is divided among all of life's responsibilities. For a hobby and within what isn't already spoken fore, I must make the largest gain in the shortest amount of the time. I am under the impression the learning curve may be faster, fitting all the parts together if none of those parts where previously prefit. I
  13. Yes, sorry, my mistake on the movement size. Please see one of my main project objectives, as well as, my financial limitations bellow. My intentions where to pull only "orphaned" and "unneeded" parts languishing among the spares of fellow watch enthusiasts, once again endowing them with their intended purpose. At or near $50.00 plus shipping, for a whole movement to pull each and every component from, would quickly exhaust my budget for this and subsequent years, not to mention violating one of my main objectives. To date I have only received one response to any of m
  14. Yes, I have picked up most of what I currently have from this, as well as, other internet sites. I thought that using this forum I could make contact with a significant number of like minded watch enthusiasts from all walks, continents and countries who might have orphan Waltham 18s model 1899 parts siting unneeded among their spares. My intentions are to purchase (hopefully at a fair price) barter for or graciously accept all the pieces required, while covering the transportation cost. I also intend to catalog all who participated, their locations and (when available) the Waltham serial nu
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