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MrRoundel

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MrRoundel last won the day on February 15 2019

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  1. Yes, those Esembl-O-Graf booklets/DVD, etc. would be very handy indeed. I remember seeing them being sold at NAWCC marts. But since I was only interested in pocket watches at the time, I never snagged any. I do remember a friend buying a bunch of them. Good thought. I had forgotten about them.
  2. At first I was thinking that you were fed "a line" by the jeweler about the "Rolex shop". But after searching on that movement I see that it may have Valjoux 72 chrono movement in it. I believe that some classic Rolex chronos use that same movement. I agree with others about the virtual impossibility of fixing it yourself without doing more harm than good. That said, that price probably includes some things that you can do without. That sounds like a complete refurbishment price to me. Depending on the condition of things, you may be able to get by with a clean and oil to get it running. You won't get guaranteed waterproofing, new crystal, etc., but you may be able to make it wearable. As you can see in the information that JohnR275 provided, there are a lot of parts in that movement. Just keeping the screws of so many different shapes and sizes takes a special type of care. And if something got lost of broken during repair I don't think you'll have access to a large inexpensive supply of replacement parts for a Valjoux 72. If you're in the USA, Annie, you might consider navigating to the AWCI website. They are an organization specializes in watch and clock repair information, continuing education, etc., and has a list of watchmakers who you can probably set store in. Maybe there is one in your area? That's where I'd be headed. Best of luck. It sounds like a great watch to have inherited.
  3. In most cases the spring-bar can be removed from either side. If you don't have a special tool you can USUALLY use a small screwdriver to depress the pin between the lug and the band. You'll know rather quickly if it moves via spring action. Watch your non screwdriver had while you do it, as you can slip and nick yourself. Oh, and in your case, if you can get a decent contact on the end of the "pin"and push it down, you'll know if it springs rather than pushes through. If it is some odd type of non spring-bar type, like the type through the rest of the band, you may need a special band tool, or at least a very small punch and a way to hold the case sideways while you press it out. Good luck.
  4. I meant to say he's selling mainsprings. Doh!
  5. There's a guy on daBay selling what he says are "Peseux stems for mechanical watches" that includes one for a Peseux 7001, which I believe is the same as the ETA 7001. If they are indeed Peseux branded NOS springs, you should be in luck. Not cheap, but should work if ETA 7001 = Peseux 7001. The seller is in the USA. Good luck.
  6. The case looks very British to me. In fact, the Dennison-made cases that were popular in housing many export Waltham movements, used very similar font for the engraving. That said, I've never seen a Dennison marked with that content description. I agree completely that the watch is some sort of layered or coated gold, with a brass interior. The hallmarks themselves should still indicate where the case was made, the case maker, and the year in which it was made. A book or website that deals with British hallmarks might get you there. As oldhippy said, many of these cases, at least those made in America, had year markings denoting the thickness of the outer gold layer. But all sorts of rather misleading markings were put on cases before regulators cracked down to make them look like they may be solid karat gold. That said, I don't recall seeing this particular marking before. Or even one like it on a pin-set type case. It's interesting, but almost certainly not karat gold. Cheers.
  7. Yup, it sounds like the bezel/case has to cinch down against the crystal. If I were you, I'd measure the OD of the existing crystal and go one size up, if you can find it. But even if you get that right, who can say what the brand and thickness of the crystal might be? Warning: Even doing this is not guarantee that it will work. This is probably why the watch still had the cracked crystal installed. These are a royal PITA. If everything is held together fairly well with the old crystal, you might consider getting a watchmaker to buff out the crystal. Or if you have the tools, do it yourself. With the crystal polished, you might learn to live with the cracks. They don't seem to be in areas that they'd inhibit reading the time. Best of luck.
  8. I'm sure that the ring is a pure reflector, not a tension-ring. If it was a tension ring, and it sat below the rim of the case back, it would have a hard time tensioning anything worthwhile. The movement sits in the case back, the reflector ring goes on top of the dial, the crystal goes on, and the case-back gets pressed through the bezel/case. Yours is not the first crystal I have seen that is cracked in those places. What it may be is that the crystal was correct but shrunk as plastic crystals tend to do. If the crystal shrinks without somehow convincing the case-back to shrink along with it, something's gonna give. This doesn't make it any easier to choose the right one, does it? If you measure the OD of the existing crystal, you should probably take it up on size due to the shrinkage. I'm still curious if the case/bezel will fit snugly against the back without the crystal in place. Regardless, this is the type of case that the GP's use. Benrus also used them, as they made a special tool for dealing with these case.
  9. Are you, spectre6000, referring to the top part as the "case"? I would refer to it as a bezel, with the case-back actually encasing the watch. With the cases that I refer to, the crystal's ID fits over the case-back's OD until it is stopped by a ledge on the case-back. The bezel then goes over that assembly until it fits snugly and at the right depth to look right and hold onto the OD of the crystal. That said, yours may be more about the crystal fitting the case-back well and the bezel being a good friction fit to the larger case-back diameter below the crystal. If that is the situation, then the bezel should fit the case back snugly without a crystal being installed. With my Perregaux model this is not the situation. Cheers.
  10. Here's a recent discussion that you might find helpful. Getting the right crystal for this type of case on the first attempt might take some luck. Hopefully the right research in finding the mistakes/learning of others will make it easier. Wyler thread
  11. It is as I suspected. Those are tough. I suspect that the #669 might be the case design number. Perhaps look for a Grana 669 crystal by GS or other? Even if you find a 669 of another company, and it seems to have same dimensions, it might be worth a shot. Good luck. BTW, the info I have doesn't seem match your case's spec's. Sorry. If I find something else I'll post.
  12. If the case is the type I think it might be (Need to see image of case back.), it will be a bear to find a crystal. It looks like it might be the type of case that Girard Perregaux used in their forties Sea Hawk watches. In those cases the inside diameter of the crystal needs to fit snugly against the outside of the case back. In addition, the bezel must also fit snugly around the outside of the crystal. The metal ring would be a reflection ring that sets down on the dial before the crystal goes on. As was mentioned, it may be the type of case that you'll have to take in/send in to a material house or get very lucky and find one for the brand and size on da Bay. I have dealt with a few of these. I'll see if my case measurements are the same as yours. If so, I MAY be able to save you a lot of time and hassle. I'll try to look for that info this morning. Good luck. Cheers.
  13. Oh, and according to this specialty website, the movements are transistor controlled. Electronic Watch Site Better reference
  14. I wish I knew. I looked in the ESA 9150 technical manual and didn't see any notation on what the material was. I touched a magnet to it and it was not attracted to it.
  15. This is a Benrus Electronic that is an ESA 9154 movement. My feeling is that this is what you'll find when you are able to open it up. There are magnets on the balance that sometimes attract and capture any screw that dares come loose in their vicinity. The one I got running had two screws stuck to the magnets at the balance, IIRC.
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