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MrRoundel

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MrRoundel last won the day on February 15

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About MrRoundel

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  1. Greetings all. I'm in the process of attempting to replace a roller jewel in a extra-thin Illinois pocket watch, 12s+ grade 439, IIRC. There is very little space to get the jaws of the combination tool onto the roller table to hold and heat it up. I have the hole cleaned out, and even if I do get a tool on it there will be trouble getting shellac on the top of it to start the process. Since I'm pretty sure that the pocket watch combo tools that I have wouldn't work on wrist watches, what do you guys use for this purpose? Do you just replace the whole assembly, table and all? Thanks ahead of time. Cheers. I'll try to post images a bit later. Thanks again.
  2. MrRoundel

    Howard Pocket Watch

    The staff should be a Howard #560, providing it is a friction-fit staff. Otherwise it might be a 561, which appears to be riveted. The dimensions for the #560 should be 4.00L/.45mm hairspring shoulder/.50--.76mm for two-piece double roller/.10 mm pivot. Let me know if you need dimensions for the riveted style. Good luck.
  3. MrRoundel

    ESA 9150 Electronic Stop-Lever Spring?

    BTW, I made a rather nifty little tool to position the tension springs that lie beneath the train bridge like an ugly troll. I filed, pounded, and squeezed in smooth-jaw pliers, a brass tapered-pin, until it was thin enough to pass between the plastic tension wheel and the bottom of the bridge. It made quick work of it. On a microscopic level the spring may find the brass sort of "sticky", so it is easy to move the springs over to their plastic wheels. This time I'm going to save the tool, and mark its container, so I don't have to reinvent the wheel next time. I forgot what I used to handle this last time, on the 9150. Cheers.
  4. MrRoundel

    ESA 9150 Electronic Stop-Lever Spring?

    Thanks, rogart63. I'll try that balance-swing test next time I pull the crystal. I ended up punting by setting date and time to the present before quickly casing and replacing crystal. Since it's my own watch, I can get away with such badness. :-) After all, I shouldn't have to mess with the date until...oh crap...the end of this month when I have to deal with the short month we're in. Doh! If I was smart AND lazy, I would have set the date to compensate for that change, if possible. Oh well, I'll pop the crystal again in a couple of weeks and check it out further. I'll also brush up on using the timegrapher. In the meantime, I have another Wittnauer electronic I bought a while back to clean. It has the later ESA9154 model in it. Thanks again.
  5. MrRoundel

    ESA 9150 Electronic Stop-Lever Spring?

    Thanks for your input, rogart63. The puzzling thing is that I don't have to twist the movement to start it running. Instead, it merely takes a "flick" or two of the spring at the top of the balance-stop lever to get it running. Would that be the case if it was out of beat? It runs fine once I start it up, providing I don't have to set the hands. It kept great time overnight. The only timegrapher I have is the app. that goes with my Ipad. I'll take a look to see what shows up there, providing I can remember how to work it. Thanks again. Cheers.
  6. Better late than never? Regarding those tension springs, I do remember that they weren't fun to deal with, but if you do as instructed in the manual, it should turn out OK. They are supposed to sit inside their respective plastic pulleys that are under the wheels. I think I used a brass tapered pin in a pin-vise to get them into position. But you do have to situate them in the ready position before you put the bridge back on. One thing I do want to add to this thread is that it MIGHT NOT be a good idea to keep these watches in setting position to save battery power. I did that and I have a suspicion that the tension spring at the top of the stop lever, near the stem, may have become a bit fatigued, taking away some required tension. I'm just guessing based on the fact that the watch was doing fine when I put it away almost a year ago, but has problems that appear to be related to that section of the watch. That spring is compressed when the stem is in set position. Anyway, I just thought I'd mention it here. Cheers all.
  7. Greetings friends. I have an issue with an ESA9150 electronic movement from the seventies. It was fine when I put it away last year, but is acting up now. When I stashed it, I pulled the crown out in an attempt to save battery life like you can in modern quartz watches. But the problem I'm having seems connected to the balance stop-lever and how it contacts the spring at the top, the one with the ruby contact. When I put the watch in the setting position, it stops as it should, however, it won't start back up with decent motion unless I fiddle with that spring contact. My thinking is that perhaps this movement isn't really made to tolerate keeping it in setting position, where the spring stays compressed for months or years. Maybe it fatigues the spring a bit, thereby causing my running problem. All I have now is a video that I made back when I got it running. The spring is just above the plastic block that the stem passes through at 9:00 in the video. It fits into a slot in a little peg and presses against that balance stop arm (looks like a leg, with the foot on the balance). Does anybody have any experience with these, and perhaps the problem I described? I'm considering putting a bit more bend back in that spring. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Cheers. Wittnauer9150.MP4
  8. MrRoundel

    broken mainspring

    I had seen that mainsprings can be repaired when the end snaps off like that. I have never done it. However, that mainspring looks pretty well "set", and may not be applying optimal power to the train. However, if there is still good resistance power to the MS, and you did repair the end, it may just become a 7 7/8 day watch. A new spring would be best, but the lesson learned in repairing such a spring would not go to waste. With a mainspring gauge or digital calipers you should be able to get the dimensions of the size you need, i.e, thickness and width. You can stretch the spring out along the edge of a table or desk with a tape measures, or(?) to get the length. When you do this, wear eye protection, and be sure nothing is around that can be damaged if the spring takes flight on you. Good luck.
  9. Interesting. I have no idea why the spring would go to pieces like that. As you have, I have had them ping away. So there's no way to get the angle of something thin enough to get that spring remnant out? What about a piece of the thinnest mainspring you have? Take it and run it around the groove. Just a thought. Good luck.
  10. I still can't help you with that crystal, but I'll make a mental note to keep my eye out for something on that 9E100 model. As far as the "exploded" hairspring goes, there are parts in those movements that are highly magnetized. One of the first things you see when you take one apart is that the "missing screws" are gathered under the balance. I think I found 3-4 there on the last one I worked on. So maybe that invisible hand of magnetism grabbed the spring or something while you pulled it away? Either that or maybe someone used C-4 to hold in the roller jewel? Good luck!
  11. MrRoundel

    Adjusting a full plate.

    I had always read/heard that the banking pins were better left untouched, unless you are a really good watchmaker. Did you install a new mainspring? If the old one is set, perhaps that could hold down that motion balance. Good luck.
  12. You are quite welcome. Cheers.
  13. It's a nice watch. The almost certainly original case does show a bit of expected wear, as if a watch has been worn, but looks pretty solid. There does look like the front cover has been "sprung" a little. The slightly larger gap between the cover and the case band seem to indicate that. Still, overall it's very nice, IMHO. I believe the market is still pretty strong for early IWC watches. Good luck if you sell it. Cheers.
  14. I can't see where those numbers are on the movement. Sometimes there can be Swiss patent numbers on the plates, and are near by the word "Brevet", or a cross symbol. Both of those numbers refer to Swiss patent numbers attributed to the IWC. 31457 is for a crown-wheel design. 55231 is for a design relating to fastening the dial. The more I look at the case, the more I believe that it is original to the movement. Jurgensen lip cases are generally on the heavy side, and are used for high quality movements. What does the outside of the case look like? Initials? Engine-turning (finely engraved cross-hatching)? I'm just curious. Beautiful watch.
  15. That's a very nice pocket watch you have there. I once had a rare IWC C56 Americaine, and it was very high grade. It's odd that you're showing 3 different numbers from the case. Are those factory engraved into the front, back, and dust-cover? If so, it would seem to indicate that it could be a Franken-case. That said, it doesn't look like it in the images. It looks like both front and back have what are called Jurgensen lips, denoted by the little extra cover piece that travels up the pendant. If you have images of those serial numbers, it might help to determine something. That all said, the fact that the back is tight, may just be how that case is. Back when it was made, it was rare for people to really need to see the mechanism, or make adjustments. And the harder it is, the more effective it may be at keeping out dust. Cheers.
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