MrRoundel

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MrRoundel last won the day on March 25

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About MrRoundel

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    WRT Addict
  1. Have you checked on Dr. Ranfft's site? Measure the size, in lignes, and scan the right column for matching sizes. You then look to see if it says "manual wind" in the center. Then look at the images. You'll probably find it. Good luck. Dr. Ranfft's site (I see that you're pretty experienced, so you probably have tried this. Sorry if it's so obvious.)
  2. I like the idea of using a cross-slide. However, one of those will probably cost a lot more than one might pay for their lathe setup. I'd like to have one, believe me. I've kept my eye out for a decent one for a nearer to bargain price, but so far I haven't found it. I do have a cross slide on my Unimat SL1000. Maybe that would work for removing staffs? Of course then I'd have to spend hundreds of dollars on the collet-holding spindle accessory. It's always something. BTW, while going through book, "Staking Tools - And How to Use Them", I saw that they suggest it's safer to turn off a bit of the collet shoulder in order to get a shallower/stronger graver in position to cut off the rivet. They mention the dangers of using a steeper graver without doing so. I'll try that next time. Either that or I'll use my K&D remover. Most of the time this tool has served its purpose well for me. But that was after I learned to issue a smarter tap to the punch. It's like you have to sneak up on it a bit. Cheers.
  3. If you consider getting a K&D remover, make sure that you measure the distance from the staking table and bottom of the arm. There are different height tools for different height staking sets. There are also smaller punches, with a smaller, tapered end to the tool, for bracelet watches. Old style K&D 600 series, and probably before take the 7/8" models. Model 18 and up take the 1 1/8" models. This according to the K&D staking tool booklet. Good luck.
  4. Benrus Citation

    In case you haven't found this, it might be of help to you. Cheers. 9154 write-up
  5. Crystal replacement

    If you're very lucky, you'll find a GS crystal that is made specifically for that case. I believe that they often have a "PA" prefix. I have been dealing with this exact issue on a case for a ladies Girard Perregaux waterproof. I have bought at least 2 crystals in my attempt to get one to fit, but so far nothing. There's probably a calculation one could make once you know the OD, ID, and edge thickness, but I don't know it. But yes, the frustration is in trying to find the proper ID crystal when everything is sized in OD. Perhaps one just has to have 4-6 sizes to try? It would be nice if on of our resident engineer math wizzes got us a formula to make it easier? Good luck.
  6. Benrus Citation

    Neat looking electronic watch. I serviced the earlier ESA 9150 recently. It took some time, but was doable with the technical guide from ESA for the model. I have worked on many pocket watches, and now maybe 25 wrist-watches, so I do have some experience. There are some tricky moves (tension-springs under bridge) you've got to do on these watches, so one must be careful, precise, and have nice tools. I can't remember where that ESA 9150 manual is, but it's out there for free somewhere. Maybe the 9154 is a well? They do need the occasional service, so providing it hasn't had a battery badly salt and mess things up, you've got a good shot at getting it running. Good luck.
  7. Of the two Jacobs chucks that came with my lathe, only one fits the spindle threads. One is a Rigid brand, which may have come from a drill motor; It does not fit, FWIW. I set up the Unimat SL1000 for drilling with the machine "vice" to hold the part to be drilled. The drill bit will have to get between the barely open jaws in order to do the work. It will be tight but looks doable. I won't be able to get to the actual drilling for a week or so, but will report back on how it works out. Cheers, gents.
  8. BTW: The Unimat has the capability to setup to be used as a drill-press. And it even has a machine-clamp that will probably work to hold it steady. I forgot about that. I'll have to convert it and see how it looks. That should solve my "holding" problem. I suppose it's about time I used the tool for something. Thanks, vinn3. Cheers.
  9. The Bergeon protectors do have a bevel that runs through the slot that home-made won't have. I guess the idea is to allow them under more tightly fit hands while giving better protection where leverage is being applied against the dial. Sometimes I'll use a thinner piece of acetate to protect the dial when I start the hands up. This is especially true on when the hour hand has little clearance from the dial. I then switch to the Bergeon now that they will fit better under the hands, and continue.
  10. Thanks, vinn3. Coincidentally, I just picked up a Foredom tool that has a drill-bit/Jacobs style chuck. I guess I could use that. And I have a Unimat lathe that has a Jacobs chuck. I won it in a raffle at an NAWCC Mart a little over one year ago. Which do you think would be better for drilling this part? I guess I have to figure out how to hold the tool while it's drilled. I've looked around for tutorials on using that lathe, but I can't find any for the beginner, which I am. Thanks again.
  11. What type of plug does the Greiner mic have? I ask because if it's a standard 1/4" plug, then you should be able to get an adapter to plug into a 1/8" plug. I got one with a pair of Sony headphone monitors, so I know it is available. Last week I downloaded the Timegrapher app for IOS to an ipod. Initially I used a Planet Waves piezo pickup made for electronic musical instrument tuning. It worked, but not particularly well. I then saw, somewhere on the internet, a guy using the wired headset that used to come with an iPhone. I doubt they still do, but maybe. Anyway, with the watch crown laid on top of the mic portion of the headset, it worked much better. I guess it was tuned to go with that mic. Good luck.
  12. Thanks khunter. I don't have the tools or skills required for drilling a hole so small. I have other winders, it's just this Watch-craft is a nice one where it's a shame for it to be incomplete. I bought it at an NAWCC Mart quite a few years ago, but didn't know to check out whether the hooks were intact. Let that be a lesson to me and anyone who reads this. I do find it odd that it would get broken, but someone found a way. Cheers.
  13. It might not be the prettiest casing pad I've seen, but the density of the foam seems pretty nice for casing up movements. And heck, you can cut yourself out a bunch of different sizes if you'd like. I was about to throw out a scrap that was left from my last re-purposing of the anti-fatigue foam mats that I purchased at my local Chinese tool factory outlet known as Harbor Freight. Before I threw them out I gave re-purposing another thought and flashed on a case-cushion. I just traced a tin top onto it and cut it out. Again, it might not be presentable in a customer-impression setting, but it's OK on my bench, in my room. Similar mats are available elsewhere, but probably for a bit more money. Anyway, for under $10, you get at least 12 square feet of the interlocking pads. It's probably 3/8" thick. Of course it's best to cut them out before the pad has been moved around on the floor a few times. The foam is of a very nice density for many applications, IMHO. I have now used them for a rope-skipping platform, an anti-vibration pad under desk monitor-speakers, and a casing-cushion. I just thought I'd throw my not-throwing-it-out out there. Cheers.
  14. I take it that I'm rather stuffed on this one. Oh well...I did think that I might, if I had the skill, drill crosswise through the shaft at the recess, and insert a pin. Anything else I can think of would seem to tend to spin i the recess, making it unworkable. So if any of you machining experts can suggest a drilling technique, I'm all eyes. Thanks.
  15. Balance staff came out :(

    It looks likes someone got a bit too aggressive with the graver when they were cutting off the rivet. If it came out by just pressing the hairspring back onto the shoulder, it wasn't held in very well to begin with. That hole in the balance arm looks pretty hogged out. I doubt if a replacement staff would fill that hole. One would have to turn one themselves. Good luck.