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MrRoundel last won the day on March 25

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About MrRoundel

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  1. Those are pretty generous prices for today's market. Real-world contemporary prices would seem to be, if we're talking naked movements in mint condition, might be $250 for Vanguard and $150 for the 845. Check out "Sold" Ebay auctions and you'll see something closer to real world prices. So yes, the Vanguard does have considerably more market value. All other things being equal, which they sound like they're not, repairing the 23J would be the way to go. You might head over to the NAWCC message board and find out which parts are actually directly interchangeable between the models. There are a few folks there who specialize in the 1892 models. I hope you get them both up and running eventually. Cheers.
  2. As beautiful as the '92 models are, being full-plate movements they do seem to get messed up by people taking them apart before they understand the pitfalls. Years ago I may have broken a pallet arbor on a 21J Crescent St. because I didn't know about the danger posed by the potance. Then, of course, there are a few different types of arbor to confuse the issue of servicing. Again, beautiful watches but best to buy them running well, IMHO. Unless you're are a proficient watchmaker, of course. I suppose the Vanguard may be a bit more valuable than the 845, but I doubt it's that much of a difference. I'm guessing that there were a lot fewer 845's than Vanguards. But, as most of us know, rarity doesn't always equal higher value. Best of luck with your repairs. Cheers.
  3. With all the problems the 23J has, I'd definitely work to make the 21J whole and running. I have a couple of '92's that are in need of work, but not that much work. Do you have nice cases for them? If not, the market for fairly common American pocket watches is pretty soft. And with naked movements it's even worse. The hunter '92's are generally more valuable, as well as those marked "Non-Magnetic" and "*Ruby Jewels". Good luck.
  4. MrRoundel

    Tissot 31.1 bumper movement mainspring

    Oh, and it gets better. Before ordering the second, and correct, mainspring from Cousins, I checked Ebay to see if I could get one. I searched for the mainspring part number. None were found. Minutes after completing the order, I was on my Ebay summary and saw that I had actually saved an auction for what at the time I thought might be the right mainspring, but wasn't sure. I forgot about it. It had another proprietary part number, so it didn't come up in my search today. But, it was the right one, and for quite a bit less money. I should just go back to bed. BTW, you have my blessing to enjoy a good laugh. Personally, if I don't laugh...
  5. MrRoundel

    Tissot 31.1 bumper movement mainspring

    Thanks, rogart63. As luck would have it, I went to Cousins to change the MS in my basket to the 1.60mm, and could swear that I did. But then, after ordering and getting the confirmation a few minutes later, it appears the change didn't take. Somehow the 1.30mm was still in the cart and the 1.60mm wasn't. Cousins is good as far as what they stock, but they have virtually no customer service that can help clear such things up before the stuff gets sent out. Maybe they're working 24 hour days there, but if not, they should have some method for correcting errors within a reasonable time. They don't have any such thing. If you order something wrong, it's a done deal and it's getting sent out. I ended up ordering the 1.60mm in a separate order, but I think it's going to be my last Cousins order if I can avoid it. The little voice told me to double-check before completing the order, but I ignored it. Bloody heck. Oh well, it's one of those bad-luck watches it seems. Thanks for you assistance. Cheers.
  6. MrRoundel

    Tissot 31.1 bumper movement mainspring

    OK, so I ordered an automatic mainspring from Cousins. The spring ended up being of a different size than the ones you (rogart63) used in your Tissot. The spring was also broken into a few pieces. I guess that's why it looked so strange to me.
  7. MrRoundel

    Tissot 31.1 bumper movement mainspring

    Thanks, rogart63! I'll probably order the part number that you used. Cheers.
  8. MrRoundel

    Tissot 31.1 bumper movement mainspring

    Hey rogart63. I hope that all of your springs are staying in place and watches keeping chronometer time. I'm back to this AS1171 bumper. I pulled the barrel, but not until after being lazy and stupid to lose the clutch spring. Lesson, don't take watches apart when you're preoccupied, or take it too lightly, ever. Anyway, is this what the spring in your Tissot looked like? It sure is odd. I've never messed with an automatic spring before so I expected differences, but this one looks downright bizarre to me. I think you may have mentioned that yours was in a few pieces like this one looks to be. Maybe it was in another thread? Anyway, I'd love to know if this is what yours looked like in the barrel before I place an order. All other input is appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. Cheers.
  9. MrRoundel

    Watch hand fitting tool

    If you're talking about the hand-held tools, I use two different ones. And I use them for pocket-watches and wristies. One has a red and black tip. The other has a white and grey tip. I just don't recall the sizes. The red/black one is larger and used mostly for hour hands and larger minute hands. In fact, I have used it for most things other than center-seconds hands, which I use the white/grey for. Good luck.
  10. Well, I engaged the hack-stop on the watch while it sits in a shared case with a few others. I like the idea of saving the battery, especially with a one-piece/monocoque case that is a bit more hassle to open and close. Mine has no battery hatch. :-( I checked it the other day by pressing the crown back in and it took off running, so it's still qualifying as a runner. Cheers.
  11. MrRoundel

    New Watch Repairman (Lady)

    Wow, that's an impressive collection of mostly Disney watches. It's nice that those analog watches got into good HANDS. Congratulations, and welcome to a great resource, populated by many fine watchmakers, hobbyists, and enthusiasts. BTW: If that Tinkerbell watch has "Flirt" on the dial, I just fixed one just like it. Of course I also broke one just like it, as in the crystal while trying to replace a VERY stubborn back. If it's like the one that I worked on, I'm very impressed that you could replace that back. After replacing the convex glass crystal, I was more careful with how the case was shifting around in my case-closer. Good luck.
  12. Have you checked on Dr. Ranfft's site? Measure the size, in lignes, and scan the right column for matching sizes. You then look to see if it says "manual wind" in the center. Then look at the images. You'll probably find it. Good luck. Dr. Ranfft's site (I see that you're pretty experienced, so you probably have tried this. Sorry if it's so obvious.)
  13. I like the idea of using a cross-slide. However, one of those will probably cost a lot more than one might pay for their lathe setup. I'd like to have one, believe me. I've kept my eye out for a decent one for a nearer to bargain price, but so far I haven't found it. I do have a cross slide on my Unimat SL1000. Maybe that would work for removing staffs? Of course then I'd have to spend hundreds of dollars on the collet-holding spindle accessory. It's always something. BTW, while going through book, "Staking Tools - And How to Use Them", I saw that they suggest it's safer to turn off a bit of the collet shoulder in order to get a shallower/stronger graver in position to cut off the rivet. They mention the dangers of using a steeper graver without doing so. I'll try that next time. Either that or I'll use my K&D remover. Most of the time this tool has served its purpose well for me. But that was after I learned to issue a smarter tap to the punch. It's like you have to sneak up on it a bit. Cheers.
  14. If you consider getting a K&D remover, make sure that you measure the distance from the staking table and bottom of the arm. There are different height tools for different height staking sets. There are also smaller punches, with a smaller, tapered end to the tool, for bracelet watches. Old style K&D 600 series, and probably before take the 7/8" models. Model 18 and up take the 1 1/8" models. This according to the K&D staking tool booklet. Good luck.
  15. MrRoundel

    Benrus Citation

    In case you haven't found this, it might be of help to you. Cheers. 9154 write-up