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  1. So with a lathe, a die press and a spring, spring bars could be made in the watch work shop?
  2. Thanks for the info. Given the cheap price they must be stamped out in seconds by machines. Do you have any idea how the tube would be clamped/sealed around the "pins"?
  3. Spring bars must be one of the most overlook parts of a watch. Nearly every watch has them but they go unnoticed but stop £10 watches and Rolex's from plummeting to earth. I'm curios about how they are made and if anyone and shed any light on their manufacture? Literally anything is of interest to me.
  4. Recently I've gotten into my polishing and I've been going trough my junk box to practice and I found this Santos strap part. I can't remove the screws which are polished so how do I restore it so the brushed parts get brushed and the polished parts get polished? If I brush it then polish the strap gets polished and if I polish then brush the screws get brushed. Normally I'd give it a polish then mask off the polished parts and apply the brushed finish but that's not overly practical. Any suggestion how to do this
  5. I might have solved my problem. This KWM Pivot gauge seems to go up in 0.05mm increments to 0.60mm then 0.1mm increments there after. This might work.
  6. All the gauges I can find go from 1.0mm to 1.5mm to 2.0mm. I was hoping for more sizes.
  7. I was wondering if you can get a "rod gauge" for watch making. Basically a sheet of metal with precision holes in it with diameter from about 0.70mm to 2.00mm in 0.05mm increments. So instead of having to use the micrometer to measure the rod I could just slide it in the gauge. If it fits in the hold it is that size or smaller and if it does not fit it is larger than the stated size. If this does exist where would I buy one?
  8. I got my emery sticks yesterday and this works very well. I could not find any crocus paper. It is apparently been replaced with something called micro mesh sheets. I went down to 2500 grit emery sticks then used a felt bob in the micro motor to get a mirror finish. It worked well. I might get some Micro Mesh Sheets and see how they work. Anyone every used these?
  9. I was going for flat. The problem really started because the "normal" polishing techniques were rounding the screw head.
  10. I got it from CousinsUK it is £20 to £10 per tube. I know I don't use a lot but that is still £2000 to £4000 per liter (not that I'd use that much in my life). Which is more that most champagne. I had a second idea. First I cut the head to size -thickness wise not diameter wise- so that it is a little to thick. Then I cut the slot. The head is really untidy at this point. I could then attached a diamond grinding disk (like this one https://www.eternaltools.com/small-diamond-grinding-wheels ). I could attach this disk into a mini lathe as supposed to a watch makers lathe. I'll clamp the screw into a vice on the cross slide and this will allow me to grind the head to size whilst keeping the head flat and level and prepare it for the first steps of polishing? What does everyone think?
  11. I was holding them in a modified collet. Thanks for all the advice everyone on here has given one. Once again I though the answer was simple but it will keep me busy for 6 months.
  12. I've been making some screw recently out of 316 steel but my stalling point has been polishing the screw heads. After I cut the slot I have been filing them flat then rubbing them in diamond paste. I apply the paste to an aluminum sheet and start with 45 micron diamond paste and rub the screw heads in it. Clean them then repeat with 8 micron and 0.25 diamond paste. However the finish is not good. I'm aware if you buy sets of diamond paste there are 7 grades to go through so it might be I'm jumping sizes to quickly but as the paste is expensive I thought I'd check here first. From start to finish how long should it take to polish a screw head. This is quite frustrating because I feel like I've go the hard bit down but the part that should be easy is not working.
  13. Well spotted. I missed that. Thanks for the help. I'm looking forwards to giving this a go on some scrap steel. Think it might take a bit of practice.
  14. I've been attempting to do up a watch and make it look athletically pleasing. My problem is I don't know how to texture steel to give it a bushed finish. I've attached a photo of one of the parts I'm working on. I've split it down into the different metal parts. Any pointers would be great.
  15. Thanks for the advice. I’ve ordered in some cup burrs and they do the job well. I’ll check the book out as I seem to spend quite a bit of my time modify non watch tools into “watch tools”. And whilst I’m at this it’s worth mentioning just how divers a tool a micromotor is.
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