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anilv last won the day on March 12

anilv had the most liked content!


About anilv

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    Distinguished Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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    Cars, Bikes, reading, watches.....

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  1. for plastic parts just cleam them with Rodico. For the mainspring I would remove, clean, oil and reinstall. Installing by hand is not hard ... they dont have much power like alarm clocks, the hardest bit is starting the spring in the barrel. Just make sure you do it away from the workbench. ...and use gloves as mentioned above. Anilv
  2. parts from China... say no more..! Anyway, apologies as I was under the impression you were refitting the original hands. Taking another look at the picture of the second you posted, it looks wrong. The size of the tube in relation to the size of the hand looks more like one meant for a quartz watch which has a much smaller pinion. Anilv
  3. From your photo it looks like the seconds hand 'is' a female type but perhaps the tip of the pinion has broken in there. This usually happens if a hand-remover is not used. Other means like levering it off with tweezers will apply side-force to the pinion and the hardened steel will not tolerate any bending. Anilv
  4. Seiko had confidence in their autowind and to be honest most people dont miss it. From a dead stop (ie left dormant a few days) it takes about a minute of shaking and you're good to go for the day. The latest models do have hand-winding though so maybe they're bowing to pressure. Anilv
  5. Everyone has their own style...and they seem to work for the most part. For me, if the watch is really dirty I will plonk the whole movement into the ultrasound (minus calender wheels and any other plastic bits). This get rid of most of the crud. I then follow my normal routine of hand cleaning in lighter fluid etc. I wouldn't depend on a watch cleaner to get all the crap out as its basically in a blind hole and stuff may vibrate loose but still be in the hole. That's what I do...give the various suggestions here a try and decide what works best for you. Anilv
  6. Is there any writing on the caseback? like 'use key no.xxx' ? If not then I would try to pry around, starting with a paper cutter inserted but not twisted, just to get the gap big enough so you can get your caseknife in there. Anilv
  7. The click on these is Seiko's typical sheet steel. I had a 4205 (similar except the 4205 uses a balance bridge, not a cock) where the part the holds the ratchet wheel was worn and not holding back the ratchet wheel. I gently bent the click into a 'V' shape to bring it in closer and problem solved. I usually have organ donors for other Seiko movements but not for these. Something you might consider if yours is similarly worn. Anilv
  8. To check if your cleaining fluid is really clean, put a drop on a mirror and leave it to evaporate. Any residue will the stuff that is left on the parts you clean. Anilv
  9. Well you have a range of -102 to +3 seconds/day and I would say that the 'adjustment timer' (more correct term is regulator) is working fine. If you're expecting a nice clean trace, that will only come with a strip-down, inspection and assembly with correct oil in correct amounts. There are no shortcuts. Anilv
  10. Clean the holes in the barrel and lid properly, lightly oil and test. I usually move it with my finger and see if it spins. Usually the problem is too much clearance so that the barrel rocks a bit on the arbor. Also check the barrel installed in the movement (with or without mainspring) and see if you can rock it. Too much rock and the barrel will bind up. Usually its because the barrel pivots are worn, there are bodges to get around this but thats another story. Anilv
  11. Do you have an ultrasonic cleaner? It will usually vibrate off. If you dont have one try holding something that vibrates with a high frequency (any electric motor eg elec toothbrush) next to the case and see if it comes loose. Good luck. Anilv
  12. If this is one of the watches where you press on the crystal, you should be able to see a cut-out around the crown area which allows the crown/stem assembly to move downwards. But since it 'specifically' mentions open thru crystal then that is exactly what you need to do! Anilv
  13. I lay a thin sheet of rodico and make a divot for the end of the arbor. This holds the barrel securely. Then proceed to hold the arbor flat while working the spring around with a needle (oilers are too delicate). Anilv
  14. Ditto on the escape wheel Anilv
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