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anilv last won the day on May 17

anilv had the most liked content!


About anilv

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    Distinguished Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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    Cars, Bikes, reading, watches.....

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  1. anilv

    Good bye

    Guys. Just to let you know that i will not be posting here anymore. This used to be a great forum but this has changed recently. All the best. Anilv
  2. Hi guys.. I don't really like working on quartz watches but I do make an exception for the Seiko 7548. I came across this at a flea-market for MYR20 (USD5) so I figured I'd try to get it working. Its actually a 7546 but theres not much difference. The 7548 has five jewels and the 7546 has to make do with only four. The hands have the usual black stuff which is what remains of the original lume. First thing I checked is if the hands set, unfortunately it only does part of the way. Forwards the minute hand sticks at the 50 minute mark and backwards it gets stuck around the hour mark. Day date sets ok. Typically grotty caseback. This is a 7546-7130 It has a full length bracelet.. that's good! What's not so good is the amount of dirt. Those with a weak stomach should look away now. I finally open the caseback and look inside.... what I see is usually enough to throw it into the bin. The battery needs to be physically pried off as the corrosion has made it stick to the movement. Once removed I find this. The corrosion is pretty bad but I've seen worse. In this case the two contacts for the battery are still present and stand up to the prods from my tweezer. Sometimes they are corroded beyond use and break off. The dial resembles a starry night sky. You'd pay a lot of money if this was a high end swiss watch but this is bassically a reaction from the cases released when the battery acid oxidises. That sh\t wont buff out. The stuff under the dial is the same as on the 6309 automatic movement. Looks good so far. But the hour wheel was stuck to the cannon pinion and thats was what made setting the hands impossible. When this happens the keyless works usually suffer broken/worn teeth as people try to force the crown around. Those parts on this watch look ok. Here we have a picture of the underside of the date advance. The date advance is made of plastic so its in pretty ok condition but the mainplate has a lot of corrosion. Next off is the circuit block. More corrosion (the black stuff).. it can be scraped off with pegwood. And the coil is carefully lifted out and put away safely. Here we can see the effect of the battery juices on the watch mainplate. train bridge is heavily discoloured and most likely the pivots as well but its in the battery cavity that the corrosion is heaviest. The (+) contact (held by screw) shows sign of corrosion. If this breaks off the movement is not worth repairing. but luckily it comes off in one piece. I finally remove the train bridge and lift it off. I made a mistake here as the stem is out and the movement is 'hacked' with the hacking part contacting the wheel. Mot really a problem but more important to remember this for the assembly. The wheels are stuck in the pivots so thats not good. Need to inspect them carefully to see if they are reusable. Reference pic to show how the various wheels go together. Bare mainplate ready for cleaning So is the watch worth fixing? Frankly no. The dial is beyond salvage, the damage to the wheel pivots may affect the performance of the watch (surprisingly the pivots look good at high magnification) but the most important issue is the coil and circuit board. They are no longer available from Seiko and this particular watch is never going to be worth the money to source one from other sources. Having said that.. I will check the coil and circuit board and if they are in working condition then I will re-install it and use the watch for a while. Even if I do get the watch to work, I foresee that the eventual fate of the movement will be as a donor for a 7548 diver watch as this seems to be the only quartz watch still in demand. Will post updates.
  3. Did you check the train runs down freely without the pallet fork/balance installed? Worn barrel holes are usualy a prime suspect for some watches. My most recent faux pas was not closing the barrel properly.. It was sticking up only a little but but enough to affect the amplitude. Good luck Anilv
  4. The impulse jewel on the balance is held in place by shellac generally (maybe on newer watches they use a synthetic glue) and this can be dissolved by acetone/thinner etc. In de Carle's book he mentions drying the balance in a tin of wood shavings. I can see the benefits of this for contaminated hairsprings as the wood shavings will wick away the cleaning fluid as well as the oil. Anilv
  5. anilv

    Seiko 6119-7040

    Hi guys.. Sharing some pics of my latest purchase. An early Seiko 5. This was for sale on local facebook page and I got it for MYR177 plus MYR10 for shipping. That's less than USD50 all in. I'm not a fan of these ridged bezels but I was drawn to the clean face as these are getting harder to find. The case back is from Nov '67. Seiko went from the seven digit serial numbers to the six digit ones sometime in '67 so this would be an early one. Oh and a 'proof' case back is always nice! It's a snap back.. Not a front loader. Case looks like its been polished but it's not too bad. Another view of the dial... On most older Seiko's you would find the lume has blackened and this affects an otherwise perfect dial but since this model didn't come with lume it's pretty much perfect. Inside is a 6119 movement... I'm particularly find if this movement and despite the bezel I think this one is a keeper. Anilv
  6. anilv

    How is this for a rip off?

    Here in Asia Diamond is a very respected company making everything under the sun. (yes they are from China).. Their mains driven wall clocks were hugely popular in the 70s.. Anilv
  7. anilv

    Casing issue

    It should be a two-piece stem, it sometimes takes a lot of force to remove. Having said that, I had a Wyler on the bench which I assumed takes a 2-piece stem but unfortunately someone had replaced it with a one piece stem which broke. How the previous guy did it was to place the movement in the case sans keyless works and install the stem and keyless stuff with the movement in the case. The dial was then glued on and hands, crystal etec installed. Good luck Anilv
  8. Hi Jfree, The reason a jewel press is recomended is because it ensure the wheel is pressed down 'flat'. If you use any other tool 'freehand' the pressure may not be even and this may result in a broken pivot.. at least the part that sticks proud of the train bridge. Good luck Anilv
  9. anilv

    Hairspring Frustration

    Take another pic with the balance sitting on top of the balance cock... If the gathering is damaged the pic won't be as nice as the earlier one. The problem with the dangling balance method is that it's a bit fiddly for watches like this Seiko. It's fine for Swiss handwinds where the balance pretty much drops straight in but on watches where the balance is partially covered by a bridge the potential to snag the balance is higher. Anilv
  10. anilv

    Hairspring Frustration

    Are these pics of the same balance wheel? If the balance in the first pic (the one from below) is sitting with its pivot in the hole and the second is the same balance then I think the problem is with your technique in installing the balance wheel. Perhaps you could elaborate more on how you get the balance in place? I personally prefer to hold the edge of the balance and balance cock in my tweezers when installing the balance wheel as I find I have more control. Most people tend to let the balance dangle while only holding the cock in the tweezers. Anilv
  11. Acetone will dissolve shellac so avoid cleaning pallet forks and balance wheels with this. I use lighter fluid (zippo/ronsonol) and swirl it around in a little cup while brushing with a cut-down paint brush (stiff artist type). Then inspect and clean with pegwood, especially the pivot holes and gear teeth followed by a second rinse in the lighter fluid. Nothing beats a cleaning machine but for a hobbyist cleaning by hand is a cost-effective alternative. Anilv
  12. anilv

    eta 2824-2 date wheel removal

    ETA came up with an easier way to get the date-wheel in place in the 2824 compared to other older movements where you need to mess with springs and jumpers and hope pray the jumper spring doesn't fly off. You install the jumper and its cover first, then align the teeth on the date-wheel with the slots in the edge of the cover and push the jumper aside. Once the date-wheel is in place the jumper will align the date wheel correctly. Finally install the minute wheel cover and screw it down. This completes the date-wheel installation. A bit unusual if this is the first time you've worked on one. Trouble is we're so used to this movements we expect everyone to know this! Anilv
  13. anilv

    Bulova 11BLAC parts

    On most watches you can just clean it in-situ and oil it from underneath the bridge if you can't slide your oiler under the wheel. The problem is not removing the wheel, its getting it back in place as you will need to press it in from above but the pressure will mean that the wheel will pivot will also be pushing on the dial-side jewel and this is really not a good thing. Anilv
  14. Common problem with these Tags. The internal threads on the inside of the crown tube means the threads are finer and more prone to cross-threading. These oddball crowns with the threads on the inside are hard to find outside TAG agents. Anilv