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anilv

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anilv last won the day on November 12 2018

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About anilv

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    Distinguished Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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    Male
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    Malaysia
  • Interests
    Cars, Bikes, reading, watches.....

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  1. Hi all, Been using this app for a month and just thought I'd share my experience. The 'Watchcheck' app is not a timing app in the sense that it does not check the rate, instead it just x-refs the time with the internet time and lets you know the deviation. You check this over a period of days and it will let you know the overall deviation. The watch in question was a citizen with an 8200 movement. I had already serviced it and wore it for a few days and this was the result. From the above you can see that the watch was gaining slightly on the 2nd-3rd Feb. I tweaked it a bit and brought it down to +10 secs/day. On the 7th Feb I played around with it and the result was a -16.2secs/day. I then started a new log .. as below as the older results would skew the readings with the newer settings and it would take longer to show the correct daily rate. So the above is the reading over an 8 day period. You can see there are times it gains and there are times it looses. You can usually discern a pattern and the app allows you to track the position of the watch, eg worn, dial up, dial down etc. You can also record the temp...skin, +4degC, +20degC, +35degC. Using a timegrapher is best but this is a simple way to get the watch running well according to how you use it. The Citizen is now at -0.8s/day and I expect it do drop to around +2 after a month or so. Looking at the details I believe it will loose a few seconds overnight i left unworn dial up (I wear the watch to bed mostly!) so the end result should be similar. A simple app but convenient to use, good luck! Anilv
  2. anilv

    ETA 2824-2

    The stem should be in the hand-setting position. Also the button should be depressed when re-inserting, do not depend on the spring of the set-lever. Use a screwdriver which width fits the slot exactly so that the stem release doesnt get pushed too far down. Anilv
  3. anilv

    Seiko 7019 balance wheel help needed

    If the watch is new to your friend he needs to be aware that these Seikos need to be shaken quite a bit to build some power. That is the main disadvantage of not being able to be hand-wound. If the watch has been working well before then the above posts covers the main problem areas. Cheers! Anilv
  4. anilv

    Seiko S-261 opinions?

    The tool is only worth it if you make a living fixing watches/changine batteries. I usually force a paper cutter blade as a start, this is to widen the gap so a case knife can get in. Sometime the paper-cutter blade needs to be tapped in with a small hammer. Note do not use this blade to open the caseback, just to widen the gap. Watch your fingers as the blade is sharp! Anilv
  5. anilv

    What is this rotor part for?

    Its a simple way to remove the rotor. Just loosen the screw (the one which does not have the two dimples next to it) and swivel the locking cam. The rotor will lift straight out. It needs to be lifted straight otherwise it will 'jam' , I find that rodico helps. Or you can turn it dial up and tap the case and it should fall downwards. Anilv
  6. anilv

    How does this one open?

    My guess is a snap back, the odds of having the wordings aligned nicely are against it being a screwback. Anilv
  7. Don't feel bad, happens even on the Swiss made ones. It helps if you pull out the crown to the handsetting position before depressing the plunger. You need to use a screwdriver where the width is the same as the slot across the plunger. When installing the crown/stem, press on the plunger and insert. Anilv
  8. anilv

    Henri Sandoz et Fils

    Hi eezyrider, This is probably a 'Bombay Special', one giveaway is the hammered finish. If the movement is signed 'Sandoz' you may see the words in the 'Sandoz' is different from other markings, eg 17 jewels..swiss etc. The shock protection is also pretty basic compared to Incabloc. The case is probably repolished and the dial is a repro but its not the worst i've seen and I've seen a lot of gaudy Bombay Specials!. The main thing is the watch was probably put together by someone who wasn't too concerend about cleaning and making up for it with a bottle of no-name oil so it could benefit from a service. The hairspring in particular looks out of center, as pointed out by yankeedog, Once serviced it would probably keep decent time. You may get it running better by just cleaning the hairspring and balance jewels but a full service is better. Not sure how much this will cost in your part of the world but I bet its more than a bar meal so it may not be worthwhile. Anilv
  9. WRT to quality.... in order of priority.. 1. Tweezers... buy dumont or some good (read expensive) swiss types. Problem with cheap tweezers is the spring pressure is too strong so you will need to use more force to overcome the spring. This makes it difficult to have a light touch to hold the parts and if you end up using too much force the part will spring away. The tips are also poorly shaped and the metal is not hard enough. It is possible to shape the tips correctly but they will wear fast. Good tweezers have hard tips so you need some brass tweezers for the brass parts to avoid marking them. 2. Oils.. bite the bullet and buy good ones. 3. Screwdrivers...Cheap ones work and the best thing to be said about them is you will improve on your screwdriver sharpening skills. Same like tweezers the metal used is not good and will wear. If you delay sharpening them they will slip on the screw. Not so bad if its a seiko but a disaster on a high end watch, especially if it scratches the bridge. 4. Loupe... poor quality loupe will strain you eyes. 5. Caseback opener.. the usual ones and the ball type as well will work fine for most of the watches. The thing is to realise that the caseback is too tight and to stop before you damage the back. Bring it to some one who has a benchtop opener and pay him a few buck to get the back off. 6. Other stuff not really important for beginners.. even a basic staking set for a few bucks is ok if you're just restaking a wheel. 7. Ultrasonic cleaner. Not really a must have for beginners, you can clean pretty well with a cut down paint brush and ronson/zippo lighter fuel and sharpened pegwood for the pivots. Get a cheap one by all means as it cleans bracelets and cases pretty well. 8. Special tools. A Presto type hand-remover is good, generic ones are ok as not much force involved. Hand-setting tool (the rod type) is much better than using your tweezers. You can even make your own with some wooden rod, sharpen it in a pencil sharpener, remove the tips so that the end is flat and hollow it out.. Good luck! Anilv
  10. anilv

    Time to give up!!

    I've had watches which have given no end of frustration.. I just bung it back in a box and come back to it a few months later. I know this is not your watch and you cant afford to do that but he may understand. Anilv
  11. anilv

    So let's say.....

    Basically you'll be doing what a lot of brands are doing. Breitling, Longines, Panerai, Oris yadda yadda...all of them do it. You would be an assembler. ETA itself does not sell finished watches so I don't think they'll take exception. Anilv
  12. ll I took a few pictures during the strip and rebuild.. First the automatic weight comes off.. Then the automatic module.. simple enough. Note below that tone of the screws holding down the autowinding mechanism also holds the winding wheel in place. With the automatic weight off the watch tries to run.. Now I flip it over to work on the dial side.. Everything comes apart well. The set lever bridges is intact. The quickset lever is also present, this can go missing as its not immediately recognizable in the parts tray! Back to the other side to get the train and barrel off.. A naked mainplate I didn't get a picture of the wheels.. sorry. Here's a picture of the movement re-assembled. In this case theres not much difference before and after as the case did a good job keeping crud out!. And here's a video.. happily ticking away! Anilv
  13. anilv

    Bulova date indicator

    Great picture by watchmaker.. Make sure the date correct (at 14 in the pic) is not flipped! Just my $0.02 Anilv
  14. anilv

    Watch of Today

    Wearing a Seiko 7546-605A.. It 40 years old but doesn't show it's age. I'm quite familiar with Seiko watches but I figured it was from 1988 until I checked on the web. Pretty accurate like all 75** movements. The dial appears light silver from some angles and a darker shade from another. Water resistance isnt mentioned anywhere but I figure it's 100m like other non screw-down crown watches from Seiko. OK
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