Jump to content

anilv

Member
  • Content Count

    1,713
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    51

anilv last won the day on April 16

anilv had the most liked content!

5 Followers

About anilv

  • Rank
    Distinguished Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Malaysia
  • Interests
    Cars, Bikes, reading, watches.....

Recent Profile Visitors

12,295 profile views
  1. If the pallet stones are worn then the escape wheel is probably worn as well, changing one without the other doesn't make much sense. Have you fitted a new mainspring? If not that is what I would replace first. Anilv
  2. The triangle is to vote up an answer. In the topic index there is a 'pinned' post explaining the Vote Up function. Anilv
  3. Great job cleaning it up.. do you have a case ring for it? I have a similar watch and the case ring was cheap white plastic hacked up to fit. Works but not pleasant to look at. Anilv
  4. I hate these newer springs..the older 3 lobed ones were so much better. Anilv
  5. I may not be fully understanding the scenario here but that sounds like a perfectly healthy movement. The main force for flicking the pallet fork back and forth is provided by the balance wheel. The escape wheel will play a part in keeping the balance moving. The balance, in effect, is providing similar motive force to what you are doing with your tweezers. Anilv
  6. Check if the barrel wall is cracked. Damaged tooth on barrel.. while the watch may work, there will be a shock to the train when the barrel reaches the broken tooth and releases. Not good for the train. Your best bet would be to look for a new barrel with lid. Good luck! Anilv
  7. It doesn't look like an original spring to me, probably he original was lost and someone modified another to fit. Guitar wire is a good source of springy metal wire. Anilv
  8. Hi all, Been using this app for a month and just thought I'd share my experience. The 'Watchcheck' app is not a timing app in the sense that it does not check the rate, instead it just x-refs the time with the internet time and lets you know the deviation. You check this over a period of days and it will let you know the overall deviation. The watch in question was a citizen with an 8200 movement. I had already serviced it and wore it for a few days and this was the result. From the above you can see that the watch was gaining slightly on the 2nd-3rd Feb. I tweaked it a bit and brought it down to +10 secs/day. On the 7th Feb I played around with it and the result was a -16.2secs/day. I then started a new log .. as below as the older results would skew the readings with the newer settings and it would take longer to show the correct daily rate. So the above is the reading over an 8 day period. You can see there are times it gains and there are times it looses. You can usually discern a pattern and the app allows you to track the position of the watch, eg worn, dial up, dial down etc. You can also record the temp...skin, +4degC, +20degC, +35degC. Using a timegrapher is best but this is a simple way to get the watch running well according to how you use it. The Citizen is now at -0.8s/day and I expect it do drop to around +2 after a month or so. Looking at the details I believe it will loose a few seconds overnight i left unworn dial up (I wear the watch to bed mostly!) so the end result should be similar. A simple app but convenient to use, good luck! Anilv
  9. The stem should be in the hand-setting position. Also the button should be depressed when re-inserting, do not depend on the spring of the set-lever. Use a screwdriver which width fits the slot exactly so that the stem release doesnt get pushed too far down. Anilv
  10. If the watch is new to your friend he needs to be aware that these Seikos need to be shaken quite a bit to build some power. That is the main disadvantage of not being able to be hand-wound. If the watch has been working well before then the above posts covers the main problem areas. Cheers! Anilv
  11. The tool is only worth it if you make a living fixing watches/changine batteries. I usually force a paper cutter blade as a start, this is to widen the gap so a case knife can get in. Sometime the paper-cutter blade needs to be tapped in with a small hammer. Note do not use this blade to open the caseback, just to widen the gap. Watch your fingers as the blade is sharp! Anilv
  12. Its a simple way to remove the rotor. Just loosen the screw (the one which does not have the two dimples next to it) and swivel the locking cam. The rotor will lift straight out. It needs to be lifted straight otherwise it will 'jam' , I find that rodico helps. Or you can turn it dial up and tap the case and it should fall downwards. Anilv
  13. My guess is a snap back, the odds of having the wordings aligned nicely are against it being a screwback. Anilv
  14. Don't feel bad, happens even on the Swiss made ones. It helps if you pull out the crown to the handsetting position before depressing the plunger. You need to use a screwdriver where the width is the same as the slot across the plunger. When installing the crown/stem, press on the plunger and insert. Anilv
×
×
  • Create New...