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anilv

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anilv last won the day on November 12

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About anilv

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    Distinguished Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Malaysia
  • Interests
    Cars, Bikes, reading, watches.....

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  1. anilv

    What is this rotor part for?

    Its a simple way to remove the rotor. Just loosen the screw (the one which does not have the two dimples next to it) and swivel the locking cam. The rotor will lift straight out. It needs to be lifted straight otherwise it will 'jam' , I find that rodico helps. Or you can turn it dial up and tap the case and it should fall downwards. Anilv
  2. anilv

    How does this one open?

    My guess is a snap back, the odds of having the wordings aligned nicely are against it being a screwback. Anilv
  3. Don't feel bad, happens even on the Swiss made ones. It helps if you pull out the crown to the handsetting position before depressing the plunger. You need to use a screwdriver where the width is the same as the slot across the plunger. When installing the crown/stem, press on the plunger and insert. Anilv
  4. anilv

    Henri Sandoz et Fils

    Hi eezyrider, This is probably a 'Bombay Special', one giveaway is the hammered finish. If the movement is signed 'Sandoz' you may see the words in the 'Sandoz' is different from other markings, eg 17 jewels..swiss etc. The shock protection is also pretty basic compared to Incabloc. The case is probably repolished and the dial is a repro but its not the worst i've seen and I've seen a lot of gaudy Bombay Specials!. The main thing is the watch was probably put together by someone who wasn't too concerend about cleaning and making up for it with a bottle of no-name oil so it could benefit from a service. The hairspring in particular looks out of center, as pointed out by yankeedog, Once serviced it would probably keep decent time. You may get it running better by just cleaning the hairspring and balance jewels but a full service is better. Not sure how much this will cost in your part of the world but I bet its more than a bar meal so it may not be worthwhile. Anilv
  5. WRT to quality.... in order of priority.. 1. Tweezers... buy dumont or some good (read expensive) swiss types. Problem with cheap tweezers is the spring pressure is too strong so you will need to use more force to overcome the spring. This makes it difficult to have a light touch to hold the parts and if you end up using too much force the part will spring away. The tips are also poorly shaped and the metal is not hard enough. It is possible to shape the tips correctly but they will wear fast. Good tweezers have hard tips so you need some brass tweezers for the brass parts to avoid marking them. 2. Oils.. bite the bullet and buy good ones. 3. Screwdrivers...Cheap ones work and the best thing to be said about them is you will improve on your screwdriver sharpening skills. Same like tweezers the metal used is not good and will wear. If you delay sharpening them they will slip on the screw. Not so bad if its a seiko but a disaster on a high end watch, especially if it scratches the bridge. 4. Loupe... poor quality loupe will strain you eyes. 5. Caseback opener.. the usual ones and the ball type as well will work fine for most of the watches. The thing is to realise that the caseback is too tight and to stop before you damage the back. Bring it to some one who has a benchtop opener and pay him a few buck to get the back off. 6. Other stuff not really important for beginners.. even a basic staking set for a few bucks is ok if you're just restaking a wheel. 7. Ultrasonic cleaner. Not really a must have for beginners, you can clean pretty well with a cut down paint brush and ronson/zippo lighter fuel and sharpened pegwood for the pivots. Get a cheap one by all means as it cleans bracelets and cases pretty well. 8. Special tools. A Presto type hand-remover is good, generic ones are ok as not much force involved. Hand-setting tool (the rod type) is much better than using your tweezers. You can even make your own with some wooden rod, sharpen it in a pencil sharpener, remove the tips so that the end is flat and hollow it out.. Good luck! Anilv
  6. anilv

    Time to give up!!

    I've had watches which have given no end of frustration.. I just bung it back in a box and come back to it a few months later. I know this is not your watch and you cant afford to do that but he may understand. Anilv
  7. anilv

    So let's say.....

    Basically you'll be doing what a lot of brands are doing. Breitling, Longines, Panerai, Oris yadda yadda...all of them do it. You would be an assembler. ETA itself does not sell finished watches so I don't think they'll take exception. Anilv
  8. ll I took a few pictures during the strip and rebuild.. First the automatic weight comes off.. Then the automatic module.. simple enough. Note below that tone of the screws holding down the autowinding mechanism also holds the winding wheel in place. With the automatic weight off the watch tries to run.. Now I flip it over to work on the dial side.. Everything comes apart well. The set lever bridges is intact. The quickset lever is also present, this can go missing as its not immediately recognizable in the parts tray! Back to the other side to get the train and barrel off.. A naked mainplate I didn't get a picture of the wheels.. sorry. Here's a picture of the movement re-assembled. In this case theres not much difference before and after as the case did a good job keeping crud out!. And here's a video.. happily ticking away! Anilv
  9. anilv

    Bulova date indicator

    Great picture by watchmaker.. Make sure the date correct (at 14 in the pic) is not flipped! Just my $0.02 Anilv
  10. anilv

    Watch of Today

    Wearing a Seiko 7546-605A.. It 40 years old but doesn't show it's age. I'm quite familiar with Seiko watches but I figured it was from 1988 until I checked on the web. Pretty accurate like all 75** movements. The dial appears light silver from some angles and a darker shade from another. Water resistance isnt mentioned anywhere but I figure it's 100m like other non screw-down crown watches from Seiko. OK
  11. You have to block the ratchet wheel with a block of wood.. On this movement Citizen marked the wheel with 3 lines as per industry practice but on earlier ones they (both) are not. Nice movement, I particularly like how smooth it winds. Anilv
  12. Hi guys, Started to work on the Tissot Seastar I posted below.. I received this watch at my weekend home and didn't have any tools handy so I started on cleaning up the case. (I borrowed the use of a case-back opener from a local store). Here's how it looks in the beginning, You can see that the chapter ring is separate and has come adrift. Beginning sanding with some fine sand-paper.. I started with some used 1000 grit.. And progressed onto finer grade. Getting better.. autosol is my preferred polish..they key is to keep using fresh polish paste and move to a fresh area on your cloth. Otherwise you'll be polishing plastic with plastic. The bezel cleaned up but theres a lot of scratches...way better than before though. You can see some scratches but with the naked eye its not too bad. That'll do for now. One of the lugs had seen some damage. A little light tapping had it looking better, here the springbars and case have been cleaned and the bracelet installed. I may get around to polishing the rear, more to get the scratches off but I may remove the engraving. I'm in Malaysia and Hebrew words won't help if I decide to sell it. Hands and dial are pretty clean. Looks like the case kept all the dirt on the outside, kudos to Tissot. A light coat of dust. At first glance the movement is nice and clean, it tries to tick .. hopefully a clean and service will see it right. I'm a bit cautious with these Tissot movements as I have had a few problems with these movements (2571). For one thing the centre wheel pinion where the seconds hand goes is quite fragile. I have broken a few.. probably because the hand-puller was not absolutely at right angles... but I dont have this problems with other watches!. Also the I have broken the Inca spring on a few Tissots but never on any other brand of watch. (KIF are another story!). Perhaps its just co-incidence but as a result I remove hands and balance jewels with extra care! coming up.. servicing the movement. Anilv
  13. Think it's more than that yankeedog... You have no idea how much Israel is hated in Muslim countries... I'm talking frothing at the mouth and death threats. My passport is stamped valid for travel to all countries except Israel... Isrealis are cool with it, they let you in on a Malaysian passport, they just stamp the immigration card and not the passport. I believe the watch came via Singapore..
  14. Thanks Gary! This watch took almost 2 months to get from Israel to Malaysia. Probably because the two countries do not have diplomatic relations. Stupid.... Anilv
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