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anilv

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anilv last won the day on September 13

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About anilv

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    Distinguished Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Malaysia
  • Interests
    Cars, Bikes, reading, watches.....

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  1. Just read the post on MWR. Great story and if you want to learn more you've come to the right place! Welcome. Anilv
  2. Most balance pivots I've worked on are usually clean and since I don't usually dismount the balance from its cock I just install it back in the movement after cleaning. Just before installing the balance jewels I give them a dab with Rodico to remove any dust and any other stuff and then install the balance jewels. Inspection is very important, any score marks or deformation will require further action. Anilv
  3. Also I'm betting the name means Millionaire?
  4. Great job! I is it a stainless steel case or base metal? Also does the crown screw-down? Anilv
  5. Well they're either crown at 4 or crown at 3. I would remove the dial and see if the day and date lines up with the crown. It could also be a mix and match... not only from the 6106 but 6119 (and most 61xx) models. Do you have the full watch including case, caseback? Anilv
  6. read this for more insight on the clutch wheel.
  7. Seiko clutch wheels are hard to find. I think the main reason they fail is when hands are improperly installed, putting stress on the clutch. Anilv
  8. Changing the hand on a chrono is not the same as changing the hands on a normal watch. They are really tight on the post, this is to prevent them flying off when the hands are reset. You also need to have support the end of the seconds clutch when installing the seconds hand to prevent damage to the clutch wheel. Seiko also has a 'flat' on the center seconds hand so the hand will deform a bit to fit the post, lessening the chance of it moving. The 'flat' can be in any position relative to 12 oçlock so a second-hand one will not work well as it has already deformed to its original post. My advice is that for a watch with such sentimental value I would get it professionally serviced together with a crystal and gasket change. Anilv
  9. If you're using a rotary tool keep the piece cool. Also change the polish bit as it will get contaminated with the material removed. Anilv
  10. Hi Jackie.. Sorry to say I don't have a technique..if I succeed it usually down to luck. Only tip I have is to fix the 'out-of-flat' before trying to get the hairspring concentric and in between the regulator pins. Anilv
  11. HMT and Citizens use same shock absorbers.. I've used parts from the handwind HMT to fix Citizen 0200 movements. Anilv
  12. I find bending is too harsh as you create a localised bend and results in metal fatigue. Using the ground down needle eye generates a lot of pressure at the point where the spring leaves the eye. That is why using tweezers to hold the spring while applying pressure is also risky. My preferred method is to support one side of the spring with a slightly large tool like a 0.7 or 0.9 screwdriver and use a thin rod to rub on the other side. This creates a bend with a larger radius (think English Wheel but in two dimensions). Since the bend has a larger radius any metal fatigue is lessened. This method makes very small changes so the risk of overbending and having to bend it back again is lessened. The trick with manipulating hairsprings is to make small movements.... and like anything with hairsprings, one small misstep will ruin your day. For out of flat hairsprings.... now thats another story. Anilv
  13. For fitting the gear to the rotor, you don't really need a special tool, my staking set doesn't even have one so big! You can punch it out from outer side (which faces the inside of the caseback) by using a suitable blunt punch. Even a wooden dowel works.. For installing you can also use a suitable wooden dowel but relieve the inside first to clear the pivot. Just go slow and constantly check to make sure it goes in straight. Anilv
  14. I understand your scenario but then the main issue would be the click releasing and not locking fast enough. This would happen even if the clutch wheel and winding pinion were in good condition. The sharp noise could also be the mainspring slipping, I assumed you greased the barrel wall with suitable oil? Another test you could do is remove the clutch wheel ,stem etc and wind the ratchet wheel with a screwdriver and see if the same thing happens.. be careful as potential for the screwdriver to slip is very high! Goodluck
  15. Maybe these movement have been sitting a while, maybe years? Definitely not good. Anilv
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