Jump to content

TAG Heuer - Removing Rotating Bezel - Help Needed


Wdc

Recommended Posts

Removing Rotating Bezel - Help Needed

Is there anyone in the forum that has experience and/or knowledge removing the outer rotating bezel. I am assuming it has the hexagon (or muli-gon) spring between the bezel and case, as it ratchets when rotating.  I have put light presser with a case splitter to lift the bezel, but it’s not popping off.

Thought is best to reach out before damaging anything.

Model if needed is 980-0208

Thanks in advance, Will  

TAG Heuer Bazel-01.1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Solved – Removing outer bezel

A special thanks to @mikeyt_53 (WTF) for responding and relating your experience. These comments along with a number of YouTube video’s, in particular (below)  stopped me from second guessing myself, resulting in successfully removing the TAG bezel.

For those that follow I succeeded using the following method.

1.       Working a knife edge between the case and bottom of bezel, lifting the bezel enough I could spray (into the hex-spring groves) penetrating oil.

2.       With the knife holding a small gap I worked in a small jeweler’s flat screwdriver, widening the gap a bit.

3.       Using a second small flat screwdriver I worked the gap around the bezel bottom until the bezel popped off the case.

Note: that before using this method I tried using a four point case-splitter which did not work.

 

Again, thank you & good luck

Will

 

 

TAG Heuer Bazel-03.jpg

Edited by Wdc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
×
×
  • Create New...