Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Tudor last won the day on August 26 2018

Tudor had the most liked content!

About Tudor

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 09/22/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Haven, CT
  • Interests
    Watches, cars, wood working, travel, off-road/expeditions

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I prefer to set hands at "noon/midnight" so that you can see the tip of the minute hand is on the zero marker and there is exactly the same amount of hour hand exposed on either side. I have heard of people using "3 o'clock" for setting hands too. With the hands directly on top of one another, you have the highest degree of accuracy possible- they are never closer than this at any point on the dial. It also allows you to evaluate the parallelism of the hands in relation to the dial surface. I prefer to hold the hand with a piece of rodico- tweezers, even well groomed and polished ones, can scratch the hands. This is a particular concern with newer white gold hands. Then press with the plastic tip tools. Once the hand is set, I clean the surface thoroughly with Rodico before setting the next hand.
  2. ETA’s are fairly easy, and parts are cheap too, so unless you get something really old they are great to play with. But the easiest movement I’ve torn into is the Rolex 15xx movement. It’s sort of a kin to a farm tractor. Simple, and overbuilt. Low beat by today’s standards but quite accurate. Generally, if not broken, just clean and lube properly. I like them. My only 3135 experience is a replica movement so I reserve judgement on the real deal.
  3. No, both coils are 220/3 phase. Its an old school way of doing a two speed motor, before the VFD was invented. Still used today by Torit for dust collectors.
  4. Yeah, it’s only an issue in high speed. I think the VFD is expecting feedback from the motor it is not getting. Updating the VFD would probably eliminate that problem. But I use high speed infrequently so it’s not an issue. Low speed seems to work fine. Snd again, if it was high volume production there should be a better way to do it, like a three phase transformer from the 480 we have to 220 it needs. Those are quite expensive however, and if you don’t have three phase at all, they do you no good.
  5. Hell there... I'm not the expert on this, but there are several threads on lubricants. I mention this as it is like discussing politics at a dinner party... It may not go over well. But, I do believe you can refer to the Mobeius lubrication chart and be fine. Watch will require re-regulation but that's normal anyway. Good luck!
  6. I noticed you mention sending the power direct to the motor from the VFD, and I nearly did that myself on the Hardinge; however, that uses a dual-winding motor- so it has one set of windings for "low" speed and a second set for "high" speed. If I use the VFD direct, I cannot use that feature. (I understand I could wire it to "high" only and let the VFD control speed) Also it runs in reverse as well. So, you have four speeds: FWD and REV, high and low in each. And, when you use the levers on the lathe to change, it applies the spindle brake mechanically. I'd have to eliminate the mechanical brake feature if I ran it direct, to avoid burning up the belts. So, what I ended up doing is to bring the three-phase from the VFD direct to the output of the main contactor in the lathe. Doing this, I have full functionality of the lathe as intended. The VFD deals with this just fine, although going to "stop" (with the brake), from "fast" the VFD detects a problem and throttles back because the motor stops spinning faster than the VFD thinks it should. SO, you have to be patient and not run it like it was full production in 1960. Otherwise, it works flawlessly with no issues at all. It is possible further tweaking the VFD settings would eliminate this error. If you WERE planning to run it 8+ hours a day, I think the VFD should be integrated more correctly/completely for best results, as mentioned above. All that said, using a small watchmaker's lathe, with it's very light weight spindle and collets, it probably wouldn't error if it had a similar set up to the Hardinge. The weight of the 5C collet head and chuck (when installed) is a different thing.
  7. I just did this for a Hardinge lathe. Generally a VFD is to allow variable speed from a motor. But in my case, the VFD is 110v single phase power and 220v three phase output. I fixed the cycles (hZ) at 60 rather than varying it so it becomes a phase splitter/step up transformer. Since you have 220v (single phase I presume) a 220v input inverter should have a 220v three phase output for the motor and you meerly fix the frequency as I did. If the motor spins the wrong way once hooked up, just swap two of the three wires going into the motor.
  8. Buna-n is a good choice. Wire temp range moderate hardness and good chemical resistance.
  9. Gaskets are consumable. And I prefer to know the particular formulation and durometer of the gaskets I use. And, I'm cheap.
  10. Measure the o-ring groove ID and the o-ring cross section and then visit www.mcmaster.com and search for O-rings. Note they have Metric which are easy and the US (Parker) standard numbering system for the "inch" ones. Get your measurement converted inches and mm and search both (exactly 25.4mm per inch conversion). Another thing is that the smallest cross section is 1mm, so if it's a thin 0.5mm o-ring you have to search/ask the watch supply houses, which will cost more.
  11. For the "lip" rebuild, perhaps a silicone o-ring that fits the inside well as a "dam" could be used to allow a build-up of epoxy with (perhaps) a binder of some sort... I'd also suggest cleaning the surface where the repair is to be done with a strong solvent that can/does attack the plastic. That will act as a "primer" and ensure the plastic is clean and ready to take the epoxy. Obviously use small amounts so as to not melt the entire thing! Really good idea with the glass fibers for strength! For that sort of crack, my first thought was to use a soldering iron on the back side to weld the pieces but they would probably re-crack in the same place...
  12. It looks like a brass case, so I'd get some brass rod, 1.5-2mm (max) diameter, open the holes and solder that in on both sides. Leave the pin long on both sides. Where the lug is "torn out" you might have to get generous with the solder... Then file, sand and buff to final shape. Be sure to protect the rehaut area so the crystal fits properly when done (you may need to mask this area until the final chrome plate step only) Now, bring it to your favorite chroming shop, and see if they will copper plate for you. Once that's done, (unless the copper looks flawless) sand and polish the copper to perfection. Its easier to see the flaws and pits once it is all one color. Repeat as needed. Finally, a nickel strike and then chrome plating will make it look better, and hold up better, than a new case. NOTE: you should discuss with the plater beforehand, as they may want you to use a certain solder ONLY for compatibility and contamination concerns with their process tanks. SECOND NOTE: Plating (correctly) will probably cost more than the watch is worth...
  13. BEST POST EVER!!! That is hilarious. Pictures PLEASE!
  14. The soldering iron trick should work well, since there is a lot of stem exposed. tin your iron, so it has a drop of molten solder on it, and hold the iron and drop of molten solder on the stem a minute or so. The molten solder allows faster heat transfer, and you want it to be fast. Quickly chuck the stem in your pin vice, and turn the crown off. It should back right off. You must work quickly as the pin vice will sink heat from the small stem quickly. As to trimming stems, decent ones are quite hard, so no cheapy cutters allowed! (note 2824 stems are all over eBay like measles) I like to thread the stem into a die plate, make the cut, and then back the stem through the plate to straighten any distorted threads. A light filing is nice- grab the stem in your cordless drill and spin it while applying light pressure with a Swiss pattern file. Run it through the die plate again. Try the fit- if it's "snug" in the crown, leave it be. If it unscrews while trying to set time or date, use an extra fine oiler (the black one) and apply the tiniest amount of PURPLE (low strength) locktite on there I can't remember the number, but it's purple for up to 1/4" fasteners. You may find it at an auto supply house as it is sold for use with carburetor adjustment screws, to keep them from moving. If you use the blue (and certainly don't use red!!!) you will be in the same boat next time... I think this is watchmaking 101, but maybe not...
  • Create New...