• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Tudor last won the day on April 12

Tudor had the most liked content!

About Tudor

  • Rank
  • Birthday 09/22/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Haven, CT
  • Interests
    Watches, cars, wood working, travel, off-road/expeditions
  1. Very clever. Im in a similar situation with no permanent place to work.
  2. How do you 'Age' your lume?

    Strong black coffee. I tried tea as well and it didn’t work for me. Tea was my first instinct as the British forces in India used it to turn their white uniforms “kaki” tan.
  3. How do you 'Age' your lume?

    I paint on strong coffee. Let it sit and then blot.
  4. How do you 'Age' your lume?

    I was too initially. Someone mentioned that and it works better. Its a bit fiddly as lume can absorb at different rates, but dip-blow dry- check -repeat can usually get a perfect match. Use daylight only if possible for best match.
  5. I’d almost be inclined to soak the entire movement in penetrating oil for a few weeks... everything has to be torn down and cleaned anyway.
  6. I think GS has a better selection than the Germans. You’ll need an old catalogue from when the watch was current to get the GS number but I e seen a lot of unique shapes over the years. Note I avoid odd shape cases that need crystals for this reason!
  7. Well, the good news is it’s not a replica. That movement is in really bad shape. Could be a few hundred dollars just in replacement screws! it needs to be torn down and every part carefully cleaned and checked for damage. But I fear there is more bad than good there...
  8. That’s taking it to the next level!
  9. Save my diver

    You need to set goals. Is your priority getting it running, or learning to repair it? if you want your watch back, I suggest you do a movement swap. That is not as easy as it looks for a beginner. Setting hands so that the date flips at midnight, setting stem length, keeping dial and hands from being damaged, swapping the date wheel over, not destroying the hairspring... plenty of potential for problems. A movement overhaul is major. More tools, lubricants and skill. Not discouraging you at all but know you WILL destroy stuff learning the craft. I did not tear down a movement until I had done several movement swaps. And I still lean that way. I know I’ll have a running watch and can then work at my pace to get the old movement working correctly. Sort of an insurance policy.
  10. Another trick to try, if you can get the wheel out ideally, is heating the tube with the tip of a soldering iron. This will expand the tube and also destroy cyanoacrylate (super glue) in Case any enterprising watch smith used any to keep a pesky hand in place.
  11. A suggestion to those using aqueous cleaners: mix with distilled/deionized water, not tap water. The minerals in the tap water can cause deposits, particularly in crevices where it is difficult to dry. You can usually get distilled water at the grocery store for your iron.
  12. Save my diver

    Movement service aside for a moment- you need a complete set of gaskets/seals for the watch and a way to pressure test it. I agree the shower did not do in the movement but their clearly is a leak that needs to be addressed. Also, before you close the back up after all your hard work, keep it overnight in a sealed bag with moisture absorbent. We have “damp rid “ at mist stores. Make sure the relative humidity is extremely low before you seal it. If not, condensation can form due to temperature changes with no leaks. (Diver watches are my “thing”)
  13. Subscribing to learn about it too!
  14. Screwdriver set

    I think I still have the AF set- I just don’t use them. The stand and spare blades are nice- for my current work area But I was a car mechanic first. Two things you have an abundance of are: hammers and screwdrivers. If you find the standard drivers work well for what you do, that’s great. If you diversify to several movements, the screw designs vary slightly. Particularly on higher end movements, you want as close to perfect slot engagement as you can get to avoid any mark on a screw in this age of the clear caseback... i wirk on etas and Rolex predominately so all closed back and only for myself. So I do have some ugly screws hidden inside but not a lot now that I’m a bit more skilled. The standard drivers work well for me. If I ever start working for others, I will end up with small tool kits specific to each maker, with drivers optimized for each. What I like about Eta and Rolex is their simplicity. I can’t tune a free sprung balance but otherwise I can usually figure out the problem and fix it with a minimum of collateral or cosmetic damage If you are like me, just working for yourself and not selling your skills outside, get the AF set and get busy. But you will buy more. There is no Burgeon truck coming each week to replace broken drivers like the Snap-On truck... unfortunately.