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Tudor

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Tudor last won the day on November 22

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About Tudor

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    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 09/22/1969

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    New Haven, CT
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    Watches, cars, wood working, travel, off-road/expeditions

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  1. Those are cool. I’m sure they’ll sell quickly and you can invest in more supplies... I presume you serialize them? What’s your procedure there?
  2. I have A-F install tools similar to the ones you have. The “trick” such as it is, is to select a tool whose bore is just big enough for the next pinion- I.e. the hour hand install tool should just clear the canon pinion and the minute one should just clear the seconds pinion. And be close to flat. Mine are slightly domed at the tip, and I “roll” the tool around to be sure the hand fully seats. I have polished the plastic tips of course and one of them I opened the bore on a bit. I’ve had good luck, even with Rolex white gold hands, which are mirror polished, curved on top, an
  3. Yes, if that set screw dug into the steel motor shaft, and raised a burr, it will be difficult to slide off, as I imagine it is a somewhat snug fit to the shaft, so it doesn't run out when the screw is tightened. You may consider a new set screw as well, since that one is pretty badly beat up. It appears to be an aluminum hollow shaft, so be gentle when heating it.
  4. I do not know of a specific 562 holder either. I'm sure if you contact Omega directly, and ask for one, they will begin ignoring your request immediately...
  5. Is the cover plate absolutely flat? It may require some "tweaking" to remain flat once the screws are in. Always start all the plate screws, and tighten them evenly- criss-cross pattern (when there are more than two) to set the plate evenly. Tightening one screw at a time, can twist the plate, and can also make getting the other screws in more difficult. You probably want a tiny bit of D5 (or similar) on that post before setting the arm and spring, if you didn't do that already.
  6. Welcome to the forum from another James (Jim).
  7. OK. Not sure how to help then. If you already took it all apart, just do that again! It is possible the motor shaft rotated in the hollow shaft, and now it's bound up. Burrs around the threaded set screw hole can gall the shaft as well. You will need to use a puller in that case, or risk damage to the motor shaft. Is the hollow shaft steel? If so, you could make a heat shield for the motor, and heat the hollow shaft with a propane or MAPP gas torch, then carefully pry between the motor housing and the shaft end. Still dangerous for the motor, unless it slides off easily. Aluminum ca
  8. You're going to need the scraps to make the three sub dials on your 7750 powered chronograph version. Same Fordite piece, but with the sub dials cut from another area, and inlaid into the original dial. That would be cool...
  9. Dedicated holder (with proper support installed) is the best; and the Burgeon generic holder is the next best (but I don't have one). The table is sprung, and it has a center support, so when you press on the movement, it drops and the pin comes up to support the pinion end. Sorry, I don't know the number off the top of my head. I had considered making one, but I probably won't. I believe they are designed to be used with a hand press, so you can center the pin under the plunger before you place the movement (for off-center pinions), but no reason it couldn't be used manually as well
  10. Whenever I hit a wall like this, I start taking it apart further. There may be something that is not obvious at work here...
  11. You really need to invest in the proper cup dies for the case back. The two-point "generic" Rolex opener often slips, and damages the case back. That is a great looking case opener, and you'd never get that open using a hand-held 2-point opener. I have a set of Chinesium ones and they have removed some rather stubborn backs with zero damage.
  12. Check with a 10x loupe and wash with acetone on a q-tip at least.
  13. Genuine ones on eBay should not be too expensive either.
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