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Tudor

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Tudor last won the day on July 13

Tudor had the most liked content!

About Tudor

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 09/22/1969

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Haven, CT
  • Interests
    Watches, cars, wood working, travel, off-road/expeditions

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  1. Hi guys. I have a former co-worker with an old ladies Stowa watch in need of restoration. It appears solid but will need hands, case polish and a new band (besides a full service). I cannot take it on, so I'm looking for reputable people to suggest he check in his area. This is his mother's watch, to be gifted to his sister. Value far beyond monetary value here, so I want to suggest some people who will respect that. Thanks!
  2. I use an ancient B&L 4X loupe 99% of the time. I have a newer B&L 10X as well and there is a big difference in quality... I hear around the dark alleys and dive bars I frequent that the current Bergeon 10X loupe is superior to the current B&L and that seems reasonable to me. Any more than 10X in a loupe and your nose oil will be contaminating the movement... Go to a microscope of some sort beyond 10X. I will use the ones at work (those go up to 1000X although 50X is usually plenty)
  3. The forgotten picture...
  4. Seiko has outstanding quality. That probably has never even SEEN Switzerland before.
  5. Finally tonight I (nearly) finished recasing my blue snowflake. I have been collecting parts for years and the case is quite elusive. I’ve been using a (decent) aftermarket case and a few months ago found a nice 1976 Case. I’ve been itching to get this together ever since! we start with disassembly of the current watch. It served well and I always enjoy wearing this watch. At least as much as my 1680. Take the back off, pull the stem and then the movement. We must be VERY CAREFUL as these original blue dials are extremely delicate. The blue paint “rots” on these. It gets lumpy and then flakes off. Once the movement is out, I also want to replace the seconds hand, which has a short tail. I have a genuine one but it needs to be broached slightly. This is an aftermarket one of near perfect shape. Lume color was adjusted by Dunkin Donuts coffee. Next we case it up. Again, very careful to protect the dial. Set the dial in the counterbore - It’s small, but it’s there. And very important to set the dial straight in it. That paint can chip on any dial messing this part up and these old blue ones are particularly vulnerable. Then the movement ring goes in. It is notched for the stem, so we need to line that up well. I sight through the crown tube to be sure all is aligned and centered. Start the tab opposite the crown then the crown side. Just catch the screw threads because it always needs further tweaking. Check the dial is seated perfectly... Once I’m happy I tighten it evenly, back and forth. New old stock 702 crown. One word of caution here- the o-ring was petrified even though sealed in the little blister since 1973 or so. If you work on this vintage stuff, be sure you have fresh gaskets. Two o rings go inside the tube, and one on the crown. The crown one seals on the end face of the tube and the two in the tube seal on the crown stem OD. Three seal points- the “triplock “ crown. Stem length was perfect and it took some effort to screw the stem in so I left it dry. When they are loose, I’ll use purple low strength loctite on them. I avoid it when I can because it can make life miserable and 2784 stems are not easy (or cheap) to find. Now we finally set the crystal. A lot of guys set it earlier, getting the case “ready” ahead as it is a bit more “brute” than other watch work. The reason I wait is to set the crystal in perfect alignment with the date window. I use the loupe and ensure the top and bottom edge of the cyclops are parallel to the date window. Not a big deal but when it’s off, it’s annoying to me. I keep a scrap crystal on the case so I don’t ham fist the hand stack... Now the crystal retainer- it slides over the crystal and is pressed firm and flush to the top of the mid Case. Mine is 99% there now. A crystal press doesn’t have the “nut” to do it so I use a small arbor press out in the garage. It was for pressing frets into fingerboards when I was building guitars. The drill press works fine too, if it’s a floor model. Well that’s where we’re at now. Tomorrow I’ll press the retainer fully home and then deal with the bezel. That may end up another complete thread...
  6. Interesting. Those hexagon springs hold the ring on in the Heuer and Omega designs. If it’s secure, I’ll default to the o-ring I originally suggested. The original probably dry rotted decades ago. What is the od of the retainer and the id of the ring? That’ll give you an idea of cross section. The od of the ring gives the id if the o-ring.
  7. So what retains the bezel now? It looks like a fine groove in the ring and retainer. Min that case I think an Omega style spring- fine wire shaped into a hexagon- might be what’s missing. But if the bezel does not fall off, I don’t see what holds it? Heuer uses the stop sign spring too.
  8. Tudor

    Landeron 48 hands on Delbana.

    Cool. I’m pretty sure all Mk. IIs are 821. Mines a ‘69 and it is. I think the 321 was dropped in ‘67... all that said I think the subdial pinions are the same diameter... reasonably sure the running seconds hand will fit.
  9. Well theTudor/Rolex flat washer spring places upward pressure on the bezel ring which is snapped over the crystal retainer. They have parallel angles so you have to press down to compress the washer to reduce the friction between the parts to turn the bezel easily (when it’s clean and working properly). Brilliant simplicity but rather easy to foul up. My 5512 below shows the retainer without the bezel ring. I think you can see the back angle under the edge. that groove you show wouldn’t work for a system like that. What does the corresponding interior of the bezel ring look like?
  10. Tudor

    Home-Made balance tack

    soooo... What should I make next? I'd like a dedicated 2784/2824 movement holder as well as a 2892-A2 holder. I don't have a 2892 kicking around at the moment I don't think... Any other ideas?
  11. Tudor

    Landeron 48 hands on Delbana.

    Try Omega chrono sub hands. Like the 821 caliber (or 321 but those get silly expensive) I used an Omega running seconds sub dial hand (the left one) on an a Valjoux 7734 that worked perfectly. The minute counter (right sub dial) needs to be broached slightly. Check at www.ofrei.com as I believe they list the diameters of the pinions of the hands in most cases.
  12. It might be for an o-ring too, just to provide tension... Did you try that? Unless there is a click or some other feature to the groove, I don't think a spring would do a whole lot for you.
  13. Glad you got it all sorted out! When first reading, I was going to suggest wrapping dental floss around the canon and then trying. Looks like you found a good one! Just clean and polish so it gleams like new for next time!
  14. THAT'S what the database software is called... (I couldn't remember earlier!) I'm inspired and may create one for myself to organize all the movement files I have. (but I've never used it before!!)
  15. Well, sure, but if the stem pulled out without loosening the screw, the stem is worn and needs to be replaced. Or, the retaining plate screw (mentioned earlier) is broken as mine did... But, for the cost of a stem, it is foolish economy to not replace it in my opinion. If it was me/my watch, I'd be checking the crown and tube very carefully as well, and replacing if needed. Might as well at least replace the O-rings since it has to come apart anyway.
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