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Wdc last won the day on December 5 2018

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About Wdc

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  1. Solved – Removing outer bezel A special thanks to @mikeyt_53 (WTF) for responding and relating your experience. These comments along with a number of YouTube video’s, in particular (below) stopped me from second guessing myself, resulting in successfully removing the TAG bezel. For those that follow I succeeded using the following method. 1. Working a knife edge between the case and bottom of bezel, lifting the bezel enough I could spray (into the hex-spring groves) penetrating oil. 2. With the knife holding a small gap I worked in a small jeweler’s flat screwdriver, widening the gap a bit. 3. Using a second small flat screwdriver I worked the gap around the bezel bottom until the bezel popped off the case. Note: that before using this method I tried using a four point case-splitter which did not work. Again, thank you & good luck Will
  2. A Bounce, still looking for help on TAG Heuer bezel removal
  3. Removing Rotating Bezel - Help Needed Is there anyone in the forum that has experience and/or knowledge removing the outer rotating bezel. I am assuming it has the hexagon (or muli-gon) spring between the bezel and case, as it ratchets when rotating. I have put light presser with a case splitter to lift the bezel, but it’s not popping off. Thought is best to reach out before damaging anything. Model if needed is 980-0208 Thanks in advance, Will
  4. Good Morning Gentlemen (i.e. @Nucejoe, @rodabod), A quick note to let you know that I apricate your above advise and to let you know I have not abandoned you. Even though I am to the most part retired, I do still occasionally consult for some of my valued customers on specialty drilling projects, mostly overseas. I am, more or less, a fire fighter they contact when things go amuck, requiring me to drop everything and focus on their problem. With things back to normal I picked up a Seiko 6139-6002 that was striped and cleaned, and waiting for reassembly, focusing on something I know before revisiting the Citizen. That said, I found myself re-reading all your comments to solidify it in my fading mind and I again thank you both. PS: the bench is again lit and alive
  5. Correction after looking closer, its not off 90°. From first glace the RJ looks to be lined up within the fork while it sits on the left banking pin. I need to go back and find @MARK video on this, cant recall if the center between the banking pins when lining up the RJ. I am assuming I can use the regulator on the balance cock for small adjustment and do not need to mess with the collet?
  6. Also, I going to circle back around on the Citizen base plate stamping of “L or R” (below in photos), does anyone know what this signifies? The 8110A I have been working on is stamped “L” and when cracking open a 8200 I see it stamped “R”. I am thinking this may sig what side of the fork to position the RJ. I have scanned the net and find no reference to the letters. Any thoughts?
  7. Gentlemen thank you for the in-depth response. The problem does appear to be associated with the positioning of the roller jewel (RJ). I do recall watching Marks video on lining up the jewel with the forks while in a resting position. I was just hoping to not have to get into it so soon…lol I am reflecting on the numerous installing of the Balance ASSY while trying to work this out and I have been having to turn the bridge 90° from its mounting position in order to line up the RJ with the center of the fork. To someone more experienced that would have been a dead give-away. Give me a bit to read and re-read your comments as a lot of what I read on first glance was fussy-jargon to a newbe. Thanks again and, “I Will Be Back”. Will
  8. Thank you for that, excellent video! I have been trying to eliminate being on the wrong side of the fork with the roller jewel by positioning the jewel between the two forks. In some movement its hard or impossible to see but in this case, I have a clear unobstructed view. I was led to believe you could do this to prevent overbanking if you do not know what side to place the jewel, left or right. This does Segway to the question of how does one know from caliber to caliber if your to position left or right? I have noticed a “L” stamped into the base plate (framework) near the pallet fork and was wondering if this was a indicator. Photo of “L” attached note the "L" below the pallet fork bridge. Thank you for your response, I will study this area a bit closer.
  9. Hello Joe, just wondering if you have time to offer a recommendation. 

    Thanks in advance,



    1. Nucejoe


      Hi Will,     I gladly be at disposal. Joe

  10. I am seeking advice on how to address a problem I am having on the re-assembly of the 8110A movement. Preamble: This was a project watch purchased for restoration. I do not recall if the movement ran smooth without the balance stopping before strip-down. The Cal was stripped, cleaned, inspected, re-assembled, train runs smooth without pallet fork Problem: cannot keep Balance Wheel (BW) in motion, keeps hanging up in the same spot, when balance rotates clockwise with the balance spoke about 10-oclock. 1. When I inspect, I can see the roller jewel against the right side of the fork 2. When I apply a bit of pressure on the BW, more to the right clockwise the jewel will push past center of the fork and the BW keeps turning right. 3. The BW will do the same if pressed counter-clockwise (CCW) past the fork but it does not hang up CCW as you can see in the video 4. I have inspected the Roller Jewel it looks ok, not chipped, broken or loss 5. Pallet fork looks ok The problem appears to be the roller jewel hitting the fork on the right side and wedging. Any thought and/or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Will
  11. Heads-up, 1971 Citizen Technical Information download found I posted this link just before X-mas when most where off with family and not hanging out working on watch projects like myself. I think it’s important enough to post again for those that missed it. My experience finding a complete Service Manual for Citizen 8110A has been fruitless but I did stumble onto a up-load onto anther site of a “Citizen Technical Information” around 200 pages in 4-5 download sections that a member was gracious enough offer. My many thanks to him, “akable”. I have downloaded and assembled the manual and found it to be very informative. Whereas it still does not cover my 8110A it does cover many Calibres both Gent & Lady’s , lots of general information that is included in the 8110A as well as many more. For those that missed it the link is as follows: 1971 Citizen Technical Information
  12. @JohnR725 Thanks for the info on lubricant trends, very informative. If heavier viscosities are trending for the wheel train, in the future I will substitute 9020 or 9020-film for the 9010. If cost is the reason, we not seeing more 9501 used, I may start substituting 9510 for D-5 in some of the lever pivots (non-rotating higher-pressure points) where common since tells you that a grease type of viscosity and/or product may be better suited then an oil. As always, thank for responding. PS: For anyone familiar with the Citizen 8110A movement, I will be posting some questions on an assembly I am having problems with. The balance complete stopping and not perpetually running after rebuilding.
  13. Welcome Dennis, nice having you as part of the forum as you dive into this new found hobby and interest. I too have resently joined the WRT and found the group to be friendly and helpful, hopefully you will find the same. My interest are 1970-1979 Seiko with the odd Citizen, how about yourself, any particular interest you will focus on? All the best, Will
  14. If a moderator sees this, you may want to delete this duplicate post. Not sure how I did it, sorry. Seems like when I edited it to add the part number it was duplicated by me some how.
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