It has been a great challenge to find a Omega Case tube for my Seamaster Chronograph Professional case 178.0504 (or 178.0514).
Omega part number is 090ST1237.
Any place I can buy an alternative after market to replace the original? any suggestion on where you would go for an Omega like after market case tube?
It is quite a long tube (5.90mm) threaded in the inside.
I know it's 'only' an electrical one but to say I'm overjoyed is a bit of an understatement.
My Grandfather gave me this, his 1982 retirement watch, 20 years ago as an empty case and strap - the innards had apperently been slowly demolished over the years by a leaky battery and where nowhere to be found.
At the start of the locky-down thing I decided it was time to do a bit of research to see if the parts could be found to rebuild it, bit of a baptism of fire as a total newby. It soon became evident that this search should have been done years ago because Omega restricted parts coupled with a dearth of NOS parts was a real headache!
Through all this research I also realised just how rare the case and bracelet style were so persisted for months, getting my claws on some old, rough, nasty and for want of a better word, crap bits and pieces. As we know the circuit and coil are getting really rare but even more rare it seems are the winding pinions and dials for them, and even the crap parts are ludicrously expensive. You know how you get into something, buy bits, realise your up to your neck in it but realise you're to far in it to retreat?
Suffice to say, I've had so much support from several people in the watchmaker community so with their help and shear dogged, billigerence and blatant stubbornness it is finally running. Still some work to do - the date needs to start changing at half 11 because it takes two hours to change, the seconds hand needs lining up better with the minute markers and I've toyed with the idea of restoring the dial, with some lacquer and minute markers missing (or maybe not, as it's a sign of its individuality!)
Having enjoyed it for a while I'll also take it all apart again and service it, only because of Lawson''s brilliant walk-through on the 1337 movement on this forum.
Never really thought of a bi-colour watch like this as my style, but with the blood, sweat, tears and more sweat and tears that has gone into it, I've decided I love it to bits. Thank you all for your never ending inspiration and such generous shared knowledge Mark Lovick and everyone - great bunch of people you lot!
I just bought A Mido watch pre-owned and certified COSC of course it must be a really accurate watch right but at least +/-10second a day worst
But this watch run fast like 1- 1.5 minutes a day...from the movement blue screws i see that the watch has never being serviced since it first owner,
I want to ask,does this watch need service or this watch got magnetize? Cause it just run fast 1-2 minutes fast and i see many articles say that magnetize watch can run fast to hours..
I'm wondering what tool is commonly used to manipulate the regulator arm? I've used everything from tweezers to a plastic stick used to help open up computers. My main issue is that all of the things I've used are risky for slippage and I find it incredibly hard to just nudge a little when you're really trying to dial in the timing. I would think there would be a special tool for this (there's a special tool for EVERYTHING), but I haven't managed to find such a tool if it exists. Today I made my own tool using an old broken spring bar tool that I reshaped that should make life a little easier, but I'm very curious to see what everyone else is using.
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Hi all I'm trying to repair this one for an old Viet Nam marine buddy, who said it hasn't run since the day his grampa gave it to him just before he deployed. What I found was that the upper pivot of the balance staff was gone along with the balance cock upper hole jewel was cracked and chipped. I was able to secure a NOS balance, staff and hairspring assembled, and lucky enough that all the jewels and fits were good. I added a new white alloy mainspring for the heck of it, cleaned and lubed everything. Assembled it and put some power to the mainspring to check it all over to find what I thought was excessive endplay. I took the balance back down and under the microscope to find it looks like the staff upper pivot(or the staff OAL) isn't long enough to fit, or reach into the upper jewel when assembled. Is that possible? is the hairspring collet not staked to the shoulder? (I haven't gotten that far). 1) should I mic the staff overall length and try and find a longer one? 2) I see there are stake marks between the balance cock and base plate seemingly to raise it up or for binding issues. should I blend those down flush? 3) should I attempt to find a different balance/bridge/hairspring assy. and replace the whole thing? it wants to run that's for sure and does intermittently, which, after all the work, is encouraging to me. I'm soooo close. Can I fix this? much obliged- Mike