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AndyHull

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AndyHull last won the day on November 11

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About AndyHull

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  1. AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    I don't think I'm going to spring for a crystal, however I will give the glass the full treatment when I have a bit of spare time. I also need to pop out the movement, and attack things with the air duster, as there is a tiny, mobile, irritating dark spec of something floating around under the glass that detracts from the otherwise fairly pristine dial and hands.
  2. AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    Thanks. An interesting site.
  3. AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    Battery arrived, so today is a Citizen day. I'm not sure if this 3801 calibre is from November 1985 or 1995, my gut feeling is 1985, but I'm sure someone with a little more knowledge will put me right. (Ignore the arm hair shadows on the glass) The rather obvious "double ding" in the glass shows up rather well either side of the second hand in this picture. There are one or two other battle scars consistent with age. It may be no great looker, but considering it only cost £0.99p plus postage (the battery cost more than the watch), I think its not too bad. I guess that is more of an indictment of our throwaway society than any failing of the watch.
  4. You might be on to something. Turdor watches.. no worse than Virgin cola and FCUK fashionware, thought the colour might not be entirely authentic for a Turdor watch. ~insert toilet humour joke here ~
  5. Mind you it doesn't look too bad considering it was produced in September 1981 - It still keeps good time too. It was pretty beat up when it arrived, as you can perhaps tell from this picture. The crystal looked pretty terrible, so it did clean up to some degree.
  6. There are of course some crystals that no amount of polishing will fix. This one has a circular crack around the outside, which visually looked initially like a hair, but after all of the grime was removed from the watch, it was pretty obvious the crystal will have to be replaced at some stage. That ancient strap has a few dings, too, but they add character. This one missed out on the 404 club by £0.95p
  7. AndyHull

    Revisiting an old hobby

    I forgot to mention the EB8800 Roxedo also got a quick makeover, while I was in a polishing mood. It may well be up and running again soon, as I have a couple of potential donors for the palette fork, on their way from the e of bay. Before shot in all its grubby glory. After shot. I bit of gentle diamond buffing on the metalwork, and some frantic polishing of the acrylic crystal with brasso etc and it looks a whole lot better, and yes, that is the original crystal. While I had it under the magnifier, I spotted something clinging to the second hand. I'll remove that, and any other imperfections on the hands and dial that I can, when I start playing with the palette fork. The "3" in the picture only appears washed out because of the angle and intensity of the light. In reality the whole dial is surprisingly clean, given its age and the "3" looks the same golden hue as the 12,6 and 9. In fact the whole effect is rather pleasing. I think a simple black (16mm) leather band would look good, assuming of course that I get it working.
  8. AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    A very 80s Citizen 21 automatic (August 1982), keeping good company (and so far good time) with my white Seiko 5. The Citizen is much cleaner and more hygienic than it was this morning, and running quite nicely too after a little TLC and a good polish. I resisted the temptation to try to hide the marks on the dial as I am pretty certain I would "fix it worse". I did remove about a metric ton of grime from the thing though. Both are members of the 404 club (see elsewhere for an explanation). EDIT: I've just noticed I've set the Citizen 5 minutes slow, due to the rather confusing dial markers.
  9. The lapping paste came from a different seller, but this stuff looks the same. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12Pc-Diamond-Polishing-Lapping-Paste-Compound-Syringes-0-5-40-Micron-5-Gram-L1I9/302943072705?epid=2207868555&hash=item4688d071c1:g:8iYAAOSwdoJbO8Cw:rk:99:pf:0 just search ebay for "diamond lapping paste" You only need a small amount, maybe a 5 to 10mm squeeze in to the crystal is enough to load up the cloth for each stage. It also polishes stainless steel quite nicely, particularly the smaller grit sizes.
  10. .. and just for fun.. a completely gratuitous "lume" shot.
  11. I thought you might like to compare these two images. The first is a pair of Seiko Kinetics, as received from ebay. The one on the left has obviously had a hard life, and the crystal looks like the gremlins have been skating on it for a few hours. It also has a major chip out of the edge at 12 and 1, and another less obvious chip in the middle of the glass around the seven o'clock marker. The one on the right on the other hand looks almost new. Now here are the same two watches after the one with the terrible crystal has undergone a hand polishing session. The process consisted of polishing the whole crystal on a 320 grit sanding disk placed flat on a block of chipboard, till it was a uniform smokey haze. It is important that the whole glass is uniform at this stage. I removed almost every scratch, line and mark, except the dings on the edge and the chip at seven o'clock. This process took about 40 minutes by hand. Tedious, but not too difficult. I lubricated the polishing disk with WD40. and protected the bezel from scratches with electrical tape, carefully cut to expose only the glass. I then used diamond lapping paste to bring back the sheen. Starting with 1.5, then 1.0 then 0.5 (I presume microns, but these are the cheapest of the cheap diamond lapping pastes from ebay, so they don't have any instructions or details). Each lapping polish probably took about 15 minutes, and took out all of the micro-scratches from the previous stage. I cleaned the face, and used a clean cloth for each stage, so as not to mix the abrasives. I polished by hand, the way you might use brasso, and only used a very small amount of the lapping paste, on a series of small clean scrap cotton cloths, each about 2 to 3 inches square. The finish is good, but not perfect, and the chip at seven o'clock is still visible if you know where to look, and catch the light just right, a little more time spent on this might remove it completely. It could perhaps do with another even finer polish, but for my purposes, it is good enough. Bear in mind this was done on an original Seiko crystal, which is pretty hard. Also bear in mind that any coatings or manufacturer's surface finish would be lost in this process, and that the only way to get an absolutely perfect finish, dues to the various dings and divots would be to replace this crystal.
  12. AndyHull

    Revisiting an old hobby

    Interestingly that movement appears to be from January 1970, which would make it 48 years old. If this is correct, I suspect it must have spent most of its life in a drawer. Calibre info here -> http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Seiko_2517B
  13. AndyHull

    Revisiting an old hobby

    Following hot on the heels of the kinetics we have this little beauty, and at only 25.75mm across the crown and 27.35mm lug to lug it is little. It just squeezes in to the 404 club, costing exactly £4.04 + p+p and appears to be in almost new condition. Even the strap appears to be unworn. It also runs almost perfectly (the beat error is a little high), which is just as well as the case back appears to be stuck fast. Its a shame that I didn't manage to crack it open, 'cos these tiny little automatic movements are an absolute marvel of miniature engineering. I'll give opening it another try when I am feeling a little braver. In the meantime I'll just enjoy its unblemished charm and good looks, and ignore the hairy armpits. I hope the "Bambi" brand strap is not made out of real Bambi. It could probably do with a clean and service, but those numbers look OK all things considered.
  14. AndyHull

    Revisiting an old hobby

    OK I answered my own question. Service manual is here-> https://www.thewatchsite.com/files/Seiko Technical Manuals/3M22A.pdf
  15. AndyHull

    Revisiting an old hobby

    More quartz action today. I recently picked up a couple of dead Seiko Kinetics (ladies sizes, so not much interest on ebay). I thought I might be able to make one working watch out of the two. As it happens I now have one fully working and one 99% working. The first one would run for a short period then stop, so I figured it was probably the capacitor and ordered one. There goes the £4.04 budget, the capacitor cost more than the watches. The other was more of a mystery. It appeared to function, but the button for showing the remaining reserve power wasn't functional. I stripped down the better looking Titanium one with what I assumed was the duff capacitor today and was disappointed to find that my hunch was wrong. In fact once I replaced the capacitor the thing was stone dead, so I dug out the multimeter, gave the thing five minutes of vigorous shaking and measured the voltage on the cap. It came in at a relatively healthy 1.4 Volts, so I started stripping it down again to see if perhaps I had put one of the insulator in squint or something.. and it started to tick. So I stopped and re-assembled it. It ran for about 30 seconds, then stopped. Long story short, it appears (from the fingerprints, damaged seal and a few apprentice marks) that I am not the first person to cast mey eyes on the insides of this watch, so I examined it carefully and noticed that the second hand appeared to be able to travel up and down relative to the dial. Not a good idea, I much prefer my second hands to go round and round rather than up and down. It seems that *someone* i.e. not me, had loosened a bunch of screws, so I set about very carefully tightening everything (I removed the oscillating weight and went over everything carefully. It now works. I say it is 99% working, because I'm still slightly suspicious of what else might be wrong with it. The second watch was much more obvious. I took it apart, and there were obvious signs of slight damp ingress. The spring that grounds the mechanism to the chassis was a rather ominous green colour, and there were a couple of tiny rusty spots here and there, so I set about it very carefully with a fiberglass pen trying not to get any dust or corrosion residue into the works. I also tweaked the spring slightly to cause it to push harder against the case. A bit of a scrub and it now operates as the manufacturer intends. They do look a little odd on my hairy wrist. One rather obviously still needs a crystal, or at the least a polish of the existing crystal. I may experiment with the diamond abrasives on this. They could probably both benefit from some attention to the finish of their straps and bezels. So I have a question. Does anyone have a service diagram or manual for these movements? No... before you ask, the grubby marks and fingerprints are not mine.
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