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AndyHull last won the day on March 31

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About AndyHull

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  1. A Citizen 0200 based piece from 1967. Similar in size to a Timex Mercury, but fully jewelled. The dial is marked with "Water Protected" and "Japan" below the 6 O'clock position, and the case serial number starts with 707, so since it is an 0200 based watch, this gives a date of manufacture of July '67. This was in a pretty bad shape. The barrel bridge was damaged, and the screw from the barrel had been swapped with the one from the winder gear, as a result, the longer screw was sticking out of the bottom of the barrel plate, and was fouling the clutch, causing someone to break the clutch spring. It was also missing its balance cock jewels and shock spring. The slightly Frankenstein finished watch. On the plus side, it is a Citizen 0200 and I have pretty much every spare you could possible need for these in the form of some donor HMT 200 movements, so I set about harvesting the necessary parts, and transplanted them into this little fellow. It now runs fine. Was it worth it? From a financial perspective, not at all. The watch appears to be relatively rare, but not particularly valuable. From a learning perspective though, it certainly was. I now know that all of the major parts of the HMT and Citizen movements are completely interchangeable, including things like the balance jewels, clutch, barrel, barrel bridge, screws, springs and so forth.
  2. You might also like to take a look here -> https://17jewels.info/movements/a/as/as-1951/ The one you have looks filthy and I would also suspect from the position of the balance regulator components, that it is out of beat and running slow.
  3. Continuing this theme, here is a Raketa 2609.HA from the mid 1970s immediately post-op, and the same watch some 12 hours later, both dial up. The big balances in these 1800bph movements make for some nice stable traces, and allowing everything to bed in has improved the picture immensely. Nothing has been done to the watch between the first graph and the second, other than wearing it on my wrist for a few hours, and letting it sit overnight. The improvement is entirely down to the fresh lubrication doing its work.
  4. In my experience the most likely cause is dirt, and most likely dirt that has migrated from the keyless work. Next most likely is dried oil. Both would respond to a good soak in naptha, but you will need to re-oil afterwards as naptha will tend to remove any lubrication. Running without oiling will cause more problems.
  5. If you are all in the mood for a little bit of Soviet era horology, then I'd like to introduce today's 404 club fixer upper. A Raketa 2609.HA based Sekonda, complete with the obligatory USSR marking on the bottom of the dial. The gold plated case (stamped AU9) and the near indestructible Raketa movement make these little Sekondas rather pleasing and rewarding pieces to resurrect. I think it too enjoyed its well earned service and good scrub down, as it is now sitting at >270 degrees, beat error around 0.1ms and somewhere around +30 sec per day without me adjusting anything. It is still sporting the original high dome crystal, which took a good polish and save for a few tiny blemishes looks almost new One other great thing about these (I have a couple of similar examples) is the dial. It is both easily readable, and classically elegant at the same time. A station clock for the wrist. Maybe the 1970s weren't completely devoid of taste after all.
  6. @EatPeach asked if it would be OK for keyless work, and I would suggest that this is the one part of the watch I would risk it on. I have used engine oil on an old low value alarm clock, and it worked fine. Furthermore, I expect it will continue to work fine, and it is infinitely better than no oil at all. I wouldn't use engine oil on an expensive pocket watch. However the original manufacturer of the pocket watch probably used whale oil or similar, so arguably synthetic motor oil is better than whale oil. I guess the reality is that if you intend to keep the watch, no problem, experiment as much as you like. If you are doing things commercially, then you may not want to risk it. Personally I would give it a try, but then again, I would only try it on a low cost piece to start with.
  7. Inventive fakery. Somewhat more creative than cranking out Rolex copies. I'm unlikely to be in the market for one of these, but thanks for pointing that out.
  8. I suspect you need to tackle this by manipulating the hairspring, but if there are any experts who have done this, maybe they can elaborate.
  9. I just spotted this in my ebay feed. A fascinatingly detailed memento mori fusee desk watch/clock. Somewhat macabre especially given the current world problems, and I'm not sure whether it should be classed as a watch or a clock, although the listing suggests it is a pocket watch. Listing 324105822505 and a similar item in listing 323050760669 if you are interested.
  10. I also uploaded a version with slightly better OCR and indexing here -> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XbRtG03Bx-nqcfHBpHDVcTQcoN94HefM
  11. I'm not familiar with the Molykote range, but the "Moly" in it is almost certainly Molybdenum disulphide, in a secret brand of herbs and spices. Moly is used in huge quantities in industry.
  12. I suspect Molykote would work fine, based only on the fact that some lubrication is better than no lubrication. In other words I would say it would be OK if there is nothing else available. Being a paste, it should stay put, and that is the risk. Some lubricants will migrate to places where you don't want them. If you want to experiment with it, then try it on a low value watch, and wear it for a while, then check it to see if it has stayed in place. You could also try moly grease (which I have used). This is readily available too, and is orders of magnitude cheaper than branded watch greases. 250ml of generic moly grease cost less than 5ml of a suspiciously similar looking branded watch grease. The keyless work is much more forgiving of random lubricants than the rest of the watch, but avoid anything you think may be water based, or hydroscopic as it will almost certainly cause corrosion.
  13. Try this link -> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XbRtG03Bx-nqcfHBpHDVcTQcoN94HefM Let me know if you have any problems downloading, or if I have managed to screw up the zip file again.
  14. This image from the Dundee based Evening Telegraph, of an assembly worker at the Timex plant suggests that it is probably a bit of both. Skill and custom tooling I suspect there was a knack to the various tasks, and specialists in each task. Furthermore there were probably teams performing each task, to keep things flowing along, rather than one individual performing multiple assembly tasks. So you would have a bunch of machinists on multiple similar machines producing batches of parts, another team producing the plates, another team of assemblers, another team doing the casing, a team lathe turning screws, others still machining the cases, fitting crystals, pins, straps and so forth. The trick with this kind of work, is to keep things flowing as smoothly and as quickly as possible. Any major bottle necks and potentially the whole plant grinds to a halt, and that costs money. I once got called out to the Schweppes plant (now called Coca-Cola European Partners or some such) in East Kilbride, to a failed custom branded industrial PC computer. Their maintenance team couldn't fix it so they called round all of the local computer companies until they found someone that said "aye, nae bother, we can fix anything", so I was duly dispatched to fix the thing with a bunch of random spares and a completely different PC. An entire bottling plant line was controlled by one PC (this was a long time back when computers were expensive), and therefore the whole place had ground to a halt. No pressure. I replaced the motherboard with my random spare, and off it went. As soon as it started back up the first task was to dump all of the contents of the various huge vats of ingredients into a skip as they had been sitting longer than their food hygiene policy permitted. Several thousand pounds worth of sugar syrup, tomato paste, vinegar, flavourings, spices and other consumable went straight into the waste bins, and the whole thing got scrubbed down and off it went, back to bottling thousands of bottles per hour. I can't remember the exact figure they quoted for the cost of the place sitting idle per hour, but it was of the order of tens of thousands of pounds. A few thousands worth of ingredients was small beer compared with the down time cost. The "Aye we can fix anything" attitude has stuck. You can fix anything, well almost anything if you are prepared to throw enough skilled people and enough money at the problem. Sadly the demise of Timex Dundee was not down to the failings of the skilled workforce, but rather the short sited attitudes of managers and politicians. Ever was it thus.
  15. Nowhere to go, nothing to do, get yourself a blank dial watch. .. or maybe one with GPS, so you can track your toilet rolls if someone steals them. .. or maybe something to help us go back in time and sort out the problem before it started.
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