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AndyHull

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AndyHull last won the day on June 4

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  1. \ Buler Solar LCD Chronograph Alarm (3091-9003), circa 1978. This was presumably meant to compete with the likes of the Seiko LCD Solar Alarm Chronograph A156 produced the same year. It has all the look and feel of a quality watch, entirely stainless in construction. Very different from the 99 pence "Hong Kong specials" that you could pick up from a filling station a few years later.
  2. In my experience, kids have more than enough "springs" in them already. Perhaps a kid spring removal tool might be a big seller.
  3. I don't recognise the exact mechanism but it looks familiar. One of the best resources for finding out about Russian watches of this era is probably Sekondtime. https://sekondtime.wordpress.com/ussr-quartz/ The plate construction suggests it is probably some Uglich variant, but what exactly, I don't know. Sekonda bought from a number of Russian watch factories around that time. Later Sekondas sourced their mechanisms from elsewhere, including Japan and China. Does the dial have USSR or CCCP or some other indication that it is definitely Russian, printed on it anywhere? Sometimes this is not visible with the dial fitted, so you may need to remove it from the case to see. Are there any numbers on the caliber?
  4. More from the penny lots. This time a Kienzle 57/03a black dial. Hopefully I have something suitable to replace the missing stem, otherwise I may need so spend more on a replacement than I spent on the watch. The seller stated that the balance was good, so I suspect it should be relatively easy to restore it to its former glory.
  5. A Soviet era USSR Poljot 2460 Sekonda is adorning my wrist today.
  6. These tiny high Citizen movements are a work of art. I have a similar style ladies High Beat Automatic, which I suspect must have been assembled by alien intelligence, the parts are so tiny and intricate. I too can find nothing about this particular movement, but I suspect that the base movement number would be 6300 or 6302, but I can't find anything for this either. As to spares for it, I think that might prove difficult, but I suggest you try some other citizen, or even an HMT movements to see if the ratchet wheel screw matches, as there seems to be some interchangeability of parts between some Citizen movements. Is there any other number under the balance wheel (as per the above image) that might give more clues? Is the shaft of the damaged screw broken off in the threaded hole? This, as you are probably aware, is a common fault, as this screw is often reverse threaded like the example above, and a previous owner may have attempted to unscrew it in the wrong direction, thus breaking off the head.
  7. That kind of gives the game away. I don't think I've seen that kind of woolly quality statement in a silver case. Generally if there is any precious metal involved, there will be a recognisable makers name or trademark, and some indication of the thickness of the rolled gold, or a silver percentage, or a more conventional hallmark. "Best material" suggests finest quality brass, with nickel plating (or microscopically thin gold if you are lucky). Furthermore the guarantee will usually state "Guaranteed for X years", (often five or ten) if it is a quality maker. Everything lasts, with care, so not much of a guarantee.
  8. Its top of the to do pile. Just waiting on a click spring (and a rainy afternoon, the garden is top priority at the moment).
  9. Well, we know the ingredients for the secret sauce, I wonder if I can brew my own. The ratio of components would need to be guessed or simply invented, as any further analysis might incur the wrath of the Disposable Watch Group (SA). I wouldn't want to be hunted down by the Swatchfinder general. I'm assuming of course that this potion is covered by some existing (non expired) patent. If it all goes wrong, I could always see if there are alternative uses for it "Super Slyde with added Moly" perhaps.
  10. An early Buler (circa 1978) solar quartz is heading my way.
  11. Mechanically, in theory, and for most mechanical movements, you only need one extra 1:1 gear ratio in the train to run the thing backwards. However in practice, machining the extra gear, pivot holes, jewels etc, and moving things about to incorporate it would be a fairly major undertaking. Having said that, there appears to have been a small cottage industry in the former USSR converting 12hr movements to 24hr movements, so perhaps someone, somewhere could to this for you. EDIT: Things are a lot simpler if you want to hack a quartz mechanical clock movement to go backwards. -> https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Customized-Clock-that-Runs-Backwards/ EDIT2: I would suggest that reversing the coil wires, rather than "reversing the magnet" per the above instructable may be your route to success, since in many cases the 'magnet' in question is possibly a ferrite bar, and only becomes magnetic when the coil is energised. The permanent magnet in the thing is the rotor, furthermore, some mechanisms rely on a ratchet arrangement to ensure the motor only runs in one direction, so either the rotor, or the ratchet, or more likely both would also need to be modified. Flipping the rotor magnet, and reversing the action of the ratchet may not be as simple as it sounds. The rotor may have a bunch of sloped poles in it like a stepper motor, sloped to ensure it only turns one way. In theory, the same change(s) would work with *some* quartz watch movements, depending on their construction.
  12. Show us a picture of the damage. I may be able to suggest a fix.
  13. At the very least its going to need a crystal. Internally however it looks reasonable, without any obvious battery juice related nonsense. Filthy of course, but that's not a major issue. Not sure of the date. It came in slightly over budget (but the postage was cheap, so I may give it honorary 404 club membership).
  14. They are a lot easier to deal with than for example the BFG 866, which, while similar in construction uses a single plate, which invariably results in a wrestling match to get all of the wheels to sit nicely at the same time to allow you to screw the plate down. Ingersoll used a number of different movements over the years. Some relatively simple pin levers like this, and others fully jewelled. Look out for the Ingersoll Sealions. They were very popular and there are some nice examples around for not much money. Even the most tatty examples I've collected cleaned up nicely and there are some very attractive designs. .
  15. I fixed up a 1980 crown-less Timex Big 'Q' minute ticker two hander today. This particular Timex mechanism has a single pusher instead of the crown. I actually have another similar watch, and a ladies (from a junk lot) with the same mechanism. I hadn't had much luck with them, they all stubbornly refused to tick, so today I decided to have another crack at them and see what I could get working. This one was missing the pusher, which I salvaged from the ladies movement, and a brass shim to allow the pusher to contact the module, which I fabricated from brass sheet. I also added a couple of capton tape insulation patches to simplify things, and avoid unwanted contact between the back of the shim and the dial (which was causing random ghost pushes of the pusher). The mechanism was completely dead when I started, but a quick bath, and a little light oiling sorted that out. The crystal will get those scratches removed once I am satisfied that the thing is now running correctly. I'm going to try something similar with the other version of this that I have. Hopefully it can be revived too.
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