Jump to content

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, ro63rto said:

These come up every few months in Lidl. I got mine for £12.99
Multiple Kelvin settings to suit and plenty bright enough.

fvcn1cM.jpg

That looks far better than the one I have. I don’t think mine goes up to 6500K. Mine makes no difference at all when I have the bench lamp on, not even worth switching on. It’s few years old now and the bench light is fairly new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, PeterS said:

I don’t think mine goes up to 6500K.

That is the light temperature not the intensity. 6500 is ice cold, I suggest you try 4000 natural white, it's a matter of preference after all.

 

8 hours ago, PeterS said:

18W sounds great, can you post a link so I know what I’m looking for? I'm sure I would find something similar in the UK.

In the electric shop ask for a LED tube of the length you want, and the two bare holders, you will need to wire one only. These items are so cheap is not worth to buy online.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I really like that, I don't know if it was your intention or not, but I love the 'steampunk' look about it, if you could just fit a large analogue dial mounted in a brass plate to adjust the brightness it will be complete. :D

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/7/2020 at 12:17 PM, Tmuir said:

I really like that, I don't know if it was your intention or not, but I love the 'steampunk' look about it, if you could just fit a large analogue dial mounted in a brass plate to adjust the brightness it will be complete. :D

I was looking for bolts and hex nuts when i got a glimpse of the box holding those barrels and i immediately knew that this is the right thing to do. :) The barrels and knurling was all for the lookout not for practicality. I must have some rest and do something else before I go back to the lamp. More about it here: bench lamp

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
3 minutes ago, wudce said:

beat me to it. yep, thats what I use too. Esslinger is a great source for stuff but save your money for the spendy stuff you WILL need in the near future. Walmart, Menards is another good one, home depot...any of the big box stores you can get a lamp for cheap. remember, get the LED stuff-they're exceptionally bright, usually have more than one setting(dimmer)and last quite awhile. oh and later on, grab yourself a small bore light, for the close-in stuff sometimes. I've seen em at auto parts stores at the checkout lane for a couple bucks. they come in handy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Light projected on the movement only, I make me a lamp with six bulbs( projection type) and switches to trun on them in different combination. This furnishes you control over the amount of light as you need them for different tasks.

Light where the work piece isn't distracts your attention leaves you with tierd eyes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The light you use also needs to work with the surface you are going to work on. A green surface is very good, you don't want a light that throws out heat, you need something that doesn't give off a shadow but also flexible so you can adjust it. You also need good light in the room. I have strip lighting on the ceiling and around the side of some of the walls.  

My preference was a green surface and a light like this type. Found this on the internet its not my bench   

Benchlight2_zpsa7089e72.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For sure get a LED light so there no heat and I also like a green work mat. I have my work table set up in a very small room and in this room there also all my computer equipment and my drum kit so no room for a bigger work table. Here a shot with just the lamp on and no over head light.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_1788.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For sure get a LED light so there no heat and I also like a green work mat. I have my work table set up in a very small room and in this room there also all my computer equipment and my drum kit so no room for a bigger work table. Here a shot with just the lamp on and no over head light.
 
 
 
 
 
IMG_1788.thumb.JPG.3217233cb5ae3f889e91796b1cfcea8b.JPG
I've had my eye on that microscope for parts inspection. How are you finding it?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, ThrobinsonCrusoe said:

I've had my eye on that microscope for parts inspection. How are you finding it?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

So far so good. You can take pictures and do videos with it if you have a micro sd card which I don't and you can tilt it if need be. Also the lights can be adjusted. Here a shot of a Pallet fork, I'm sure it would look better if I could take the shot with it and not my hand held camera.  Only con is it comes with only a USB cable to charge the batteries but you can use a wall charger which I happen to have. 

IMG_1792.JPG

Edited by wudce
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a similar digital microscope, and it was possibile to display the images on my laptop or monitor via the USB cable. If that works, you should be able to save images direct to your hard-drive. The images are far better quality than those displayed on the integrated screen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Klassiker said:

I have a similar digital microscope, and it was possibile to display the images on my laptop or monitor via the USB cable. If that works, you should be able to save images direct to your hard-drive. The images are far better quality than those displayed on the integrated screen.

That would be right there no output to a laptop etc but not a big deal for me since this is just for inspection. The image is far better than what you see here since like I said I took the picture with a camera. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use 2 LED lathe lights. It offers me more flexibility. I can tilt the light to get into every corner.

I can use it with the lathe, staking tool, jewelling tool... with 2 lights you can position them until you get a shadow free view. You can position them like a copy stand and get reflection free photos.

1049907434-323398818.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/1/2020 at 8:03 AM, wudce said:

For sure get a LED light so there no heat and I also like a green work mat. I have my work table set up in a very small room and in this room there also all my computer equipment and my drum kit so no room for a bigger work table. Here a shot with just the lamp on and no over head light.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_1788.JPG

Which microscope is that? How much did you pay for it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, caseten said:

Which microscope is that? How much did you pay for it?

Would this microscope show  scratches on the face of pallet jewel or a real tiny damage on a pivot or on escape teeth? 

How can good work be expected of a good horologist/ repairman if he is not equipped with optical tool to see that tiny damage? 

I don't think these cheapy digital microscopes can deliver the quality we need.

I wouldn't waste money on them unless it shows me that tiny damage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Would this microscope show  scratches on the face of pallet jewel or a real tiny damage on a pivot or on escape teeth? 

These microscopes are not like opticals, but for the price (around 30 € incl p&p) they do great job. As an amateur with a limited budget and limited work space, I'm quite pleased with it and in my opinion yes you can detect small damage. I'm sure you can work better with optical tools, of course.

PIC001.jpg

PIC002.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...