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caseten

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  1. Hello, is there a short list of parts that are (or are not) compatible between the NH35 and 7S26 series? My understanding is that the NH35A is an evolution of the 7S26, but adds hacking and hand winding. I understand that the 7S26 came out in 1996 and was replaced by the NH series in 2011. Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
  2. @jdm Hi jdm, is there a short list of parts that are (or are not) compatible between the NH and 7S series? Also, what do you think of the reliability between the NH35 and the other major Japanese and Swiss movements. Thanks. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  3. @JohnR725 Thanks for the information and encouragement. Much appreciated. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  4. @JohnR725Thanks for taking the time to write such a thoughtful and insightful post. I can't express enough how much I appreciate it. As a novice, I'm currently trying to determine, if I did a sufficient job with the service of the 6497 (for a beginner), and if I didn't, how I can use the timing information to determine what I should fix/adjust/redo to achieve better results. What is the timing information telling me? I'm sure the balance end cap stones aren't oiled as well as they should be. I can see that that is difficult to do by hand and will take many months of practice for me to get ri
  5. @jdmThanks for the detailed advice. Yes, I think I will move on. I have a 2836 I will tear down and reassemble, per the nobswatchmaker guide, and then move on to my Seiko NH35As. My goal is to gain proficiency, such that I am able to regulate the NH35A and ETA 2836 and ETA 2824 to a chronometer grade. I'm particularly interested in the NH35A as they can be had cheaply, and from what I've been told from at least one master watchmaker, the Seiko movements are robust in the way that Rolex calibers are robust. If I can consistently service the NH35A to a chronometer grade, I will be very happy.
  6. In the Watch Repair Lessons course, Mark states that the amplitude of a freshly serviced watch should be between 270 and 320. I'm trying to achieve a semi-optimal result. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  7. Going through Marks course, I stripped, cleaned, reassembled and lubricated my Seagull ST36. I then tested the movement in 6 positions. The initial amplitude was quite low. 184 to 211. I let the watch run overnight. When I retested the watch in the morning, the amplitude was quite high, 329, so I demagnetized, regulated the movement and retested in 6 positions. Here are my current results: Position Rate Amplitude Beat Error DD +5 247 0.0 DU +3 252
  8. Which microscope is that? How much did you pay for it?
  9. Recently I purchased the Neatfi Elite HD XL Task Lamp 1100 Lumens 6000-7000K Dimming for $90 on Amazon (had a $5 off coupon). The other option I considered was the Professional LED Bench Lamp with Dimmer Switch from Esslinger for $119 + shipping, which is also 1100 Lumens and dimming, but has no information on the color of the light, but mentions "84 white LED bulbs provide ample daylight illumination" so basically, I think it's the same lamp as the Neatfi Elite HD XL Task Lamp. Another option I considered was the Neatfi XL 2,200 Lumens LED Task Lamp 117 LED 4 Level Brightness, w
  10. New member here. I've gone through all three courses, and now I've disassembled and cleaned the Seagull ST36 6497 and I'm in the process of putting it back together. Need help getting the right mainspring winders for the movements I'm working with (6497, Seagull ST2100 [ETA 2836], and Seiko NH35A) I currently mod watches (create and lume my own dials, re-brush and re-polish cases, tune bezel action, add sapphire crystals, etc.) Got into watch repair because I screwed up the keyless works on one of my ETA 2836 based watches and watched Mark's YouTube videos to fix it. Thanks
  11. Hi, I'm going through the course and have disassembled a Seagull ST36 (6497), have cleaned the movement (except for the Going Mainspring/Barrel). I need to get the correct mainspring winders for the following: Seagul ST36 (6497 clone). Seagull ST2100 (ETA 2836 clone). Seiko NH35A. Are there acceptable budget options? Thanks. Bonus question: I'd like to use a dial without the extended seconds pinion on the seconds wheel. What is the best way to remove this?
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