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Everything posted by jdm

  1. So far the good advice about timegrapher, a very important instrument. But I think that in the end the app the OP was using has done its job already: the watch runs very poorly. There lies the fault.
  2. Beautiful Frida is now visiting often. I am told that 3 colors females are called Calicot. The new neighbors have few more too on the style, all are always welcome to trespass.
  3. It has been a bit of saga but worth it. Finally cut a screw for the 8 days French alarm clock. One of the four to fasten the pillars to the base, three were missing. I am almost sure that all its sizes are in French lignes, to begin with the pitch of 4 threads per ligne (0.564mm). The head is 2 x 1 exactly. The pitch is easy to get if your lathe has a bunch of gears. But the profile is another story, antique threads have rounded crests and valleys. I can only hypotize on how that could be reproduced in an home shop - not easily. Anyway, just like my Swiss-exiled counselor has confir
  4. Doesn't seems much of a deal to me. A genuine ETA 7750 Top grade is $436 from startimesupplyes. Then what value original dial and hands may have depend on the situation but if I was to build my own chrono I surely would not want any branded element on it.
  5. I suppose who gave this answer was talking about the past, and even if I can't say for sure, I think that is not the reason. As I have mentioned before, King Seiko and Grand Seiko were sold exclusively in Japan but that doesn't mean they were worked on only by the manufacturer. Back then and now as well there were reputable indipendent Japanese watchmakers, just like there were and still there are others which specialize in premium Swiss makers. It was purely customer's choice to decide who give his high segment watch for service or repair. So you have easily found the series 56 parts list (th
  6. Still a DC motor of limited performances, and very expensive for what it is. They claim that it offers maximum torque at low RPM, I would love to verify this claim by parting off even just 25mm dia. leaded steel - altough I suspect that will be stressing for the aluminum bed too. I know that my similarly sized Unimat 3 copy can't, despite also coming come with a "load compensation" speed control circuit board. I see that under heavy load it tries to do that, but In the end the torque is too little, and the pulley ratio too high. At least the Sherline has two steps pulleys, while mine doesn't
  7. Unfortunately if one is serious repairing and even just regulating mov'ts need to spend the money for a cheap timegrapher at least. What you can do in the meanwhile is take an high frame rate video and post here. The marking will help experienced eyes to make a call. If amplitude is really 180 deg that is too little for good timekeeping, especially when worn and moved around.
  8. The jumper spring is the part that keeps the date ring steady, otherwise it wil lbe be moving around all the time. The date quick set mechanism is completely indipendent from the one that advances with time. I did not even exist on older maov'ts. So it's normal that one may fail but not the other. Advance time and observe the motion going from the cannon pinion, to an intermediate wheel, to the date wheel, to the date ring. Where the motion is not transmitted, there is the fault.
  9. Not to split hairs but I don't think there is any advantage in using engine oil on machinery. No damage will occur but is not made for that. Without going to lengths, engine oil must work and maintain its properties under high temperatures, pressures, and exposition to contaminants, plus it must deliver a bunch of other features. Nothing or very little of that exists in a machine tool. And if it's of synthetic formulation its characteristics (mainly, extended service life) do not have a chance of being triggered. So you will find that machine oil, from a sewing machine to a plain b
  10. Very likely the mov.t is in poor conditions, with insufficient amplitude for decent timekeeping and reading by the application, which has no fault. In that case a complete cleaning and oiling is needed to try to get it back to acceptable performances. There are various running thread and at least one member expert on Timex working, these should be your main resources.
  11. There is no stem visible, what came off was just the outer of the crown. Open the watch and you will see the stem. Once the remaining portion of the crown is unscrewed (apply some heath first) you will need to replace the crown complete. Look on Ebay or Cousins UK for a suitable one. BTW we have a dedicated section where is considered polite for new members to introduce themselves.
  12. These have been passed to me by a distinguished forum member that is too busy to post at the moment - he's working on a mov. t so small that all its sizes are actually negative numbers. I have a couple. Both work, the second one seems to be more forgiving in use. They both contain: silver nitrate, cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate), and regular salt, and the second one has a little alum (potassium alum). The combinations are by weight. 1st formula: 1 part silver nitrate 2 parts cream of tartar 2 parts salt 2nd: 1 part silver nitrate 8 pa
  13. Here's what a well known watchmaker told me on the subject of cutting pinions. I was wondering about the work sticking out too much on order to make it reachable with the cutter wheel. I've only cut pinions between centers a couple of times. It is an excellent way to do it, but the setup time is usually more than it's worth. Usually you can start with a larger bar, and neck it down and maintain rigidity. For example, a 0.8mm pinion with 8 teeth. I would use perhaps a 3.5 or 4mm bar, then step it down until I had enough of the right diameter sticking out to cut the teeth. The steps will p
  14. Well, as mentioned Mark and other people "on the Internet" have spoken good about it. There are other bits of discussion here and there on this forum. It's not just the hobbyist that that consider price first, as other choices whatever their natura can cost easily 5 times as much.
  15. Good point. As with any quartz watch there is no guarantee that just giving it power it will work. Perhaps one should attempt with a long exposure to strong light, or temporarily powering from a regular battery before spending for a new rechargable cell.
  16. That is the Chinese watchmaker's lathe imported, rebadged, reboxed and resold for an higher price. In addition it comes with some accessories made in Europe. Boley also sells it https://boley.de/en/shop/1617.mini-lathes/685000.mini-lathe?q=Vector To know a bit more about the history of the Chinese lathe (which has been around for since many decades one can read http://www.lathes.co.uk/chinese-watch-lathe/ I wrote the below to summarize prices and options. It's not a priority for me right now, but I probably will get one at some point. Mark also has one.
  17. Yes, threading practice, tried some techniques like tool upside down and spindle in reverse, and cutting with compound set at an angle. BTW here where I live M3 is 0.5 pitch
  18. At the very minimum you need a good case knife, e.g. "Japanese type". In stubborn cases a lever type special tool may become a saving. Then the problem could become closing it, for which a small press is used. My advice, unless you are willing to spend money for proper tools, bring the watch to a shop. Otherwise more damage than the one it has already suffered will be made.
  19. It's an M3, to make practice for a comparable, but non-standard size and pitch one that I need for an antique clock restoration. Slowly getting there and then I will tell its full story. This is what I've used, nothing to do with watch or clockmaking, but for various reasons it was the best purchase for me at this time.
  20. The Chinese sell one for a reasonable price. That is the sincereclocks Ebay seller.
  21. My understanding is that when is about this kind of vintage pieces one can't expect to find ready parts, and even donor movements may be hard to find, expensive, or not guaranteed to be 100% identical. So in many cases the only choice is making a new part. However for this one you might get away finding an acceptable replacement from some assortment of NOS or used parts. That is, a pinion. It can be cut on the watchmaker's lathe with a divisor disc, milling head attachment, and gear cutter(s). I haven't ever done that myself (but certainly want to) so I will stop talking in theory
  22. Remove it and measure with vernier calipers. You will also need a crystal press. These are essential tools even for a beginner.
  23. For easy of anyone, please post pictures directly. Add Files button on the bottom left of the editing form.
  24. That is a clever design help, perhaps it was added to alleviate the constraining trap of removing only from the setting position - something unheard on most other mov.ts, Seiko to begin with. Anyway, personally I don't follow the practice of the shaped hole. I just trust my able hand to push just enough for the stem to come out being gently pulled by the other. Which has not failed me yet.
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