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Everything posted by jdm

  1. This. But there is an easy solution, buy a a similar watch or mov't, that could cost 15 pounds maybe. Practice on it until you can take it apart and reassemble almost blindfolded. Accumulate a modicum of tools and materials in the meanwhile, less than 100 pound say. You be then ready to work on the original, and many others.
  2. For years I have wondered how Imperial system diehards deal with the fact that lug gaps,as well case sizes, are iuniversally indicated in meaningless Metric units. Now I know - they don't ;-)
  3. What about a couple of pictures to help others understand what is clear to you - the only one being able to see the issue?
  4. Good that these are cheap for you, because it is not so here. Since a mechanical men's Omega is always a minimum of a couple hundreds Euro no matter what model and conditions, and parts may be difficult and expensive to find and import, I trongly recommend that you start learning on sothing really cheap, like some Russian, Japanese or even Swiss that you can find locally for 15 Euro each and are almost working. I know well that as a beginner you are eager to start working on the same pieces that yuo also like to collect and wear, but the chances that you will get everything right at the first attempt are very low.
  5. I think when it comes to being able to positively identify how parts fits and which screw goes where the best approach is to take pics or even video, AND store parts in labelled sectors. Because some mov't are really unusual with all screws being different, or there maybe a long gap time before re-assembly, and in any case one needs to move on expeditiously before "practice kicks in".
  6. The 6R15 hairspring has a better material and the top plates are finished as Côte de Geneve, which makes it stand out better on a clear caseback as opposed to a diver's. Once again I recommed that you get to learn on something else, not a perfectly fine new watch. Ideal are cheap mechanical watches individual or in lots which can be bought for around $30. We see often that beginners think to know better of the advice given and/or largely underestimate the extent of effort and time which goes into learning how to take apart a mechanical or even quartz movement and put it back working the same or better than it was before. To me is no surprise that after few initial long worded postings declaring ambitious objectives they are not ever heard again. I hope that won't be your case and further to that I highly recommend that you invest in your education enrolling in the comprehensive training offered by our Host Mark Lovick at www.watchrepairlessons.com
  7. A 6R15 will set you back $130 if branded as SII NE15, and even more if Seiko, now since a SII NH36 does practically the same for $100 less then is clear why the latter is the popular choice. Have a read of the many modders topic on WUS. There must be thousands of posting and pictures on the subject, and complete watches and parts are often listed.
  8. There is no Seiko 5 "Malasyan model". All Seiko 5 are manufactured in factories outside Japan. If you want a Made in Japan Seiko you can get something like an SKX007J or a. SARB watch that are a mix of proveniences but can legally show that. For a brand new, fully Japan made piece you have to scale up further, perhaps not to Grand Seiko levels, but above $1,000 for sure. I recommend against you taking your new watch to tinyi parts but to read here instead about what is best for a beginner to learn on.
  9. And here's the proof. Source lathes.co.uk
  10. I I use only HP-1300 of the cannon pinion as I don't have or care for the expensive products that are on the service sheets. Works fine for me, never had a problem nearing 5 years now.
  11. There is and it has been linked above. Then if some more or less obscure mov't is not there is no fault of Dr. Rannft which does a great service paid by his own money.
  12. I have a 1900 and works very reliably. As mentioned above if your watches have big thick cases you should try adjusting gain or remove the caseback.
  13. Among others, Cousins UK and Boley.de let you search by case reference for Seiko and other makers. Very good, BTW I have broken my good share of crystals and other assorted parts too. Yes. That allows to delivery fine contours and details with ease of manufacturing. Below 1.2mm they break very easily, you can break a 0.8mm pushing it out by hand. Try to use only crown type dies on the crystal, and a lever type press if possible, as it provides better feedback.
  14. A 3 jaws is fine but you must be prepared to also build your own arbors /expanding mandrels, etc because for certain jobs you won't be able to grab proper, or the jaws will be in the way, etc. Also, some work require the abrasive to be moving with the work steady,. The thing is that independent 4 jaws are a real rarity on a true watchmaker's lathe. Feel free, of course, to show us differently.
  15. No, as mentioned above it's never so on that class of watches. And gaskets can always be re-used unless damaged messing with them as happened here. I'm afraid the OP is a bit ham fisted, working on crystals is delicate - just as everything else on watches.
  16. For my curiosity, which is what?
  17. I wanted many specific parts too then come to terms with the fact that unavailable means just that and lived happily since.
  18. Right. But we know well that our long time member vinn3 here is more familiar with machining that watchmaking :-)
  19. The scuff marks on the crystal can be easily polished, or a generic flat one be fitted. You can desume the hands hole size from the movement used and get generic baton one. Again, it seems to me that all original ones need is a bit of cleanup.
  20. Another Chinese telling the truth. And metric digital for good measure. Where we'll end up ?!?
  21. Nitpick, the market price for that type of chuck is a little more than $30 shipped. Alos interesting the below for $22, from the jaws casting marks it appears they are of a softer alloy, which is good to preserve the finishing of the work. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000276565113.html
  22. The answer "yes" given above is substantially correct but incomplete and hurried. For example, on the very popular swapping to a SKX 200m divers, one cannot reuse the original stem/crown combo, so a new one must be bought. Then, one must reuse the original movement ring, as well the day disc. But you cannot count on carrying over the date wheel, because that changes across versions. I wrote about that many times here and on WUS, it should be easy to locate my postings for those that desire to gain full understanding and do a perfect job.
  23. That is absolutely normal, Seiko has produce this movement over many decades and in various factories in Asia, variations in finishing and lettering are expected. The advice to replace with a brand new NH36 was also a good one, then of course anyone does as he pleases.
  24. Not on these Seiko five which are built for simplification and ease of assembly. Just press out and replace with a generic crystal. No point in wasting time chasing original parts that even if found would cost more and be identical.
  25. Considering that the Chinese never bought from Incabloc, do not necessarily make precise 1:1 copies, and have build the Tongji in very many different variations and independent factories, I think the only way to to know what you copy has, is with measure and compare.
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