Tmuir

Very nice haul, I really want a pivot gauge like you just got.

Yee Gods!! The time you spend servicing that movement will be more than its worth. I'm going to guess China, or somewhere else in Asia

Watch out when you remove the balance jewels for cleaning the shockproof spring is a real PITA to refit. The russian movements may not be the prettiest, but they are solidly built that's for sure.

The blue grease is Moebius 9501. I put it on the tip of the winding stem that fits in the hole in the movement plate and a tiny dot on all 4 sides of the square that the pinion slides up and down on and 1 or 2 dots on the teeth of the sliding pinion and 1 dot in the slot that the yoke sits in. Likewise a dot where the setting leaver locks in on the setting leaver spring. I use D5 for the pivots of the yoke and setting lever

I usually use Moebius 9501 on winding stems and winding sliding pinion, but my notes also say Molycote DX can also be used so I would go with your Molycote. Use just the tiniest amounts, mark has videos of youtube showing how to apply it.

You must remove the section of the spring the will become the loose bit before you heat the mainspring as heating the mainspring to red will anneal the spring steal so it can bend, not break. If you do not remove the bit of the spring that will become the loose bit first it would also be heated and annealed and then under tension in the barrel when the watch is would up it could buckle and let the mainspring go which would most likely damage the watch

Pages from the book that explain how to make a loose hook end for a mainspring

You could in theory fix it, but I would measure the mainspring and see if you can buy a replacement. They used to rivet the extra bit on, but now its usually spot welded, but in some older watches they just have a loose end mainspring hook, which you might be able to do for this spring if you can't find a replacement, but it would be tricky. W.J. Gazeley's book Watch and clock making and repairing explains how to do this. (1950s book). I will take a photo and post it from the book shortly.

I think before anyone will be able to help you need to post full photos of the front and back of the movement so people can identify the movement.

No worries, I've spent plenty of time just thumbing through the books reading about odd looking tools that the pictures have caught my eye, the Riveting thimble and stand being one of those tools, you won't regret buying it for $20. A lot

From the 1902 edition of 'Watch and Clockmakers' Handbook Dictionary and Guide' by Britten. These books do turn up regulary on ebay as there have been many editions of it pribted and they are well worth getting to help identify old tools. I also have a 1938 edition of this book which is my favorite of all my reference books as my grandfather signed his name in the book in January 1944 when I assume he first got it.

It's a pedestal stand and riveting stakes. It allows you to hold the stake with one finger and support the item with the rest of your hand. Basically it lets you do work that you would normally need a thirs hand for. That picture is showing a minute hand been driven onto a pocket watch. I'll take a photo of the page from Britten's Watch and Clockmakers handbook

For those interested here is a photo of the cracks in the barrel wall, you can see them extending out from both slots for holding the wire although the crack on the left side is not as visible it is cracked through the barrel too, hence why I Need to make a new barrel. My order of brass tube and 1.5mm brass sheet arrived today, as the biggest cost is the postage I ordered more than I need, enough to make 2 more barrels. I've got to wait for a cool day as its too hot to work in my workshop at the moment. I've never made a barrel from scratch before so it will be an interesting learning experience.

As mentioned in a post the other day it is hard to get suspension spring in any size other than 0.15mm. I'm just wondering how much difference it would make to the clock if you used thicker or thinner suspension spring. Obviously if it is thicker it would take more force to move the pendulum the same amount of arc so a thicker spring would result in a smaller arc of movement of the pendulum and a thinner one more, but the question is how much difference? I've got a English fusee clock that has a 0.1mm suspension spring fitted whilst cousins sells 0.15mm for English fusee clocks. Checking the slit in the pendulum rod with a 0.15mm watch spring I can see its fits nicely, so its possible my clock was just fitted with the wrong size spring at some point in the past. I'm thinking of just sucking it and seeing if 0.15mm suspension spring will work, or does anyone has a way of working out the optimum suspension spring thickness as unlike mainspring sizes which has formulas to use I can find nothing on suspension springs.

I have the expensive Horotec version of this and have used it to remove several bezels off Seiko watches. The cheaper version can't be that much different, but I've never used it on a Omega. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-Repair-Tool-GF07115-Snap-On-Watch-Back-Case-Opener-Watch-Bezel-Remover/123421758268?hash=item1cbc82933c:g:-VMAAOSwIUpbxA8A:rk:26:pf:0 This is the Horotec version. I bought mine when this website had a 20% off sale and being I live in Australia I also didn't have to pay VAT, so paid considerably less than the price listed here, but it was still expensive. https://www.eternaltools.com/horotec-bezel-remover-and-pressure-case-back-opener