Tmuir

Thanks AshF. I will keep your offer in mind. My son got a RaspBerry Pi 4, 4 Gig for Christmas, which we set up this morning, gave it a static IP and set up SSH on it, so that is his new coding test bed. Tomorrow we will be soldering some headers onto the 128 x 64 Dot Matrix LCD display I got him and then he hopes to use it to run a program he has been working on for the past few days of simulating how a liquid would run through different shaped objects he crates in 2D. He has no real application for the program its just an exercise in coding for him and is already beyond my leve

My 13 year old son is very much into computer coding and has moved so far beyond my coding ability that I don't understand half of what he is telling me he is doing now, but I thought I would post a picture of a project he did over the weekend. But first I need to mention he is a big fan of aircraft clocks and very quickly took my Russian AChS-1 'MIG clock' to sit beside his computer and then when I restored my WWII German Kienzle aircraft clock he very quickly grabbed that one too. But back to my son's project. He has always wanted an analogue dial in the style of an air

That is different, I like it.

I've restored one of these clocks, same brand but different style, mine was in a glass dome similar to anniversary clocks. Be careful with the pendulum, besides the obvious double helical spring it has a jewel in the top of the rod that the wire passes down through and a sideways jolt to the top can crack the jewel. If the wire breaks that holds it up go measure it and you will find that the metal superfine guitar string will be the perfect size. I think it is the 'E' string, but a quick measure of the broken string will prove that. Also be aware that the copper 'hairspring is a

I love the way in no way did he say it was old or French. I believe that is called lying by omission.

As wls1971 says I would avoid using citric acid in clocks. Get a scap bit of brass and drop it in some citric acid and leave it in there for 20 minutes and come back and it will be copper colour which then takes significant polishing to remove, it is essentially dezincing the brass, or causing dezincification which is damaging the brass. I used to restore toy and model steam engines and dezincification was our worst enemy, now don't get me started on the differences between using distilled water and de-ionised water in brass boilers as that is an even hotter topic for toy steam engin

Kapton tape is what you are thinking of. It is also used for insulation of electrical wiring in aircraft, insulation in space crafts and more importantly on the hot bed of my 3D printer to help the plastic stick to the bed.

It's amazing what you can find on the web. Maybe the Pigeon Clock Museum can help. http://www.pigeonclocks.com/ I'm pretty sure to stop it you put in a band on your pogeons leg, but not sure how you start them.

I cant afford another BSA motorcycle to restore, but want another project so I'm on the lookout for a BSA bicycle now, preferably 1940s to early 1950s and in particular I want one fitted with a 3 speed hub, but they are not that common where I live.

It never ceases to amaze me what you can stumble across whilst looking up something else on the web. I was looking for help on replacing the failed hydraulic disc breaks on my 15 year old mountain bike, but instead discovered a gem of a video on how bicycles were made in Britain back in 1945. Enjoy the video if you have nothing better to do for the next 17 minutes and 22 seconds.

If the key is turning and nothing is happening look closer at the very inner coils of the mainspring. If none of it is moving you either have a broken eye on the end of the mainspring, or a broken hook on the arbor of the winder so its not engaging the spring. If the last few cm of the spring is winding up but not the rest of the spring then the mainspring is broken and will need to be replaced. The only way to check is to dismantle but make sure you remove the power on the alarm side first. If you haven't already I suggest buying a book on clock repair. One that isn't too expen

Your braver than me. I would love to learn how to repair porcelain dials, but I think that is one skill I will have to admit defeat before I even start. If you repair any more make sure you post photos and let us know of your techniques. I have a book 'The Watchmakers' Hand-Book' by Claudius Saunier published in 1882 which goes into some detail on how to make a porcelain dial from scratch. At some point I will have to try and copy out that chapter and post it on the forum. It talks about hand painting all the numbers and markings in black enamel and then firing them to set them into

The real Omegas in the pictures above are things of beauty!

Let us know how you get on as I'm guessing NOS parts for that would be non existant

Yes John hit gold with his ebay links. Good luck with your bidding Nora.