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Tmuir

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Tmuir last won the day on December 30 2019

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About Tmuir

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    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 01/05/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth Western Australia
  • Interests
    Clocks & watches, vintage British motorcycles, toys and model steam engines....

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  1. Are you going to route a little 'trench' across the front edge of the top to catch anything that trys to roll off the front? Coming along nicely.
  2. I think you made a typo, I'm sure you meant to type 'Kif Spring Tools' https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/kif-shockspring-tool
  3. I'm not quite sure what tool you are talking about, but if you are working on hairsprings and you haven't already got yourself one find yourself a good condition second hand staking tool as you can use this to refit hairsprings. Then to adjust the hairspring hang it on a balance tack And finally make this tool for adjusting the hairspring. Mine was made from blue steel approx 2.5mm in diameter. I went a bit crazy with the grinding on mine, you really just need to grind / file about the last 15mm from the end take it off from both sides so its is about 0.3mm thick (this can be bigger or smaller depending on the hairspring collet size) and then file the end as shown in the photo so it looks a bit like a tiny hockey stick. The idea is you have worked out already if you want to rotate the hairspring to the left or the right and then you hang it on the balance tack and hold the balance wheel. As the tool is only 0.3mm thick turning it on its side you can slide it between the hairspring coils and then turn it 90 degrees so the end of the 'hockey stick' is facing towards the slot in the collet and you push it in the slot which loosens the collet and you can rotate the hairspring and then the remove the tool. It may help to put a little wedge into the very end of the tool so it goes into the slot on the collet easier. I hope that all makes sense.
  4. I Agree only file when the pivot is already rotating or you will end up with flat spots, but you should file in both directions, that is on the push and pull stroke, when the bow is being moved forward (away from you)you pull the file towards yourself and vice versa, you should also have the bow threaded on the jacot tool so that the motion of the pivot is opposite to the direction you are moving the file.
  5. Nice years ago I made a jarrah bench for my workshop, (just a workshop bench, not a watchmaker's bench) used a thicknesser to get the jarrah all to the same size and then hand planed the bench top flat once glue up, my wrist hurt for a week. My wife walked into my workshop and asked me when I was making her a kitchen table like that. I told her 'Never'. Your watchmakers bench is coming along nicely.
  6. Don't be too worried if some of the pushers or reamers are missing or damaged you can buy them from Cousins for a reasonable price. I've looked at buying one of these sets many times on ebay, the price is about what they go for, but too expensive for me as in Australia I also have to pay 10% GST on the final sale price and 10% GST on the postage too which just pushes it out of my price range.
  7. Usually the numbers are 1/100 of a mm, but that can't be the case on the tool you are looking at as no pivot is 0.02mm. As oldhippy says we would need to see the tool. One important thing about buying a Jocot tool don't even bid on it unless they show you the ends of the pivot holders, especially the circular disks with the holes in them as they are usually cracked or broken. Also look at the case it sits in. Does it look like there are spaces for more parts? If so unless its a silly cheap price also avoid it. I would go to say that over half of the Jacot tools sold on ebay are not really fit for work anymore.
  8. Looking at the movements http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Longines_12_68ZS http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Longines_30LS 12.68ZS diameter is 27.5 and the 30LS is 30mm, but the dial holes in the movement look further in from the edge on the 30LS, but flicking backwards and forwards between the 2 movement pictures the holes look to be a couple of degrees offset from each other, so I'm not sure the dial from a 30LS would fit a 12.86ZS
  9. I've not uncased this movement yet and don't want to until I need to service it so can't properly measure the dial, but holding the vernier over the crystal the dial has got to be pretty close to that measurement, but I can't say for sure. Uncased 30LS movements do turn up from time to time, but I've not seen one with a dial yet. I'm on the lookout for the correct second hand for mine, if you do end up finding a movement with dial and it has hands I would be interested in buying the second hand off you.
  10. It looks very similar to the dial used on the Longines 30LS, although I'm guessing the dial posts are in different positions or the dial is slightly different size. He is my 30LS The second hand is not correct on my watch it should be like the one in your photo above.
  11. Is the rotor original? Could it of been fitted with a new rotor at some point that has the wrong jewel count on it?
  12. I would go so far as say its a very uncommon method, I've certainly never seen or heard of anyone doing that before. The end should just have a hook on the arbour and a hole in the spring so you should be able to remove it without dismantling any further. Likely the thread is just making that hard for you to see.
  13. Then you are in luck, if the you decide to get more serious about it there is a watch and clock school in Perth that runs night classes, or will again once we are allowed to.
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