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Everything posted by PeterS

  1. Exactly, the NH36 is cheap and I thought it would be a good starting point. I will not take the barrel apart, for now. I want to get used to the extra complications I’m not used to and I want to see the results after reassembly. If I take the barrel apart now and the amplitude or something else is not right I will not know what the problem is unless I buy a new barrel. After I’ve stripped it and put it back together several times and I’m confident with this movement the barrel is definitely coming apart and I want to see the results after reassembly. Captain, what grease did you use on these?
  2. I wonder whether I could use the Seiko S-3? This is the description: Seiko S-3 Silicon Grease For lubricating slipping attachments of automatic movements with self lubricating mainsprings. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/seiko-s3-grease
  3. Thank you guys. Yes, it would have been easier if I had another movement that’s suitable for it however this is what I have now. I’ll use the movement for learning, keep the barrel as it is for now and I might come across a thread/article where someone has successfully applied breaking grease to the wall (no doubt Mark will cover it in level 4). If not I could try different greases and see what results I get. From what I read I’d probably start with the P125. Is this the same case for other Seiko movements? 7s26, 4R35, 6R15 and the older calibers?
  4. Thank you for your answers. This movement is purely for me to train on. Just like I used the 6497 and took it apart countless of times this one is going to be the one with extra complications that I want to use for learning. It does not matter if something goes wrong with the barrel complete, it’s never going to go in a watch. I would like to take the barrel apart. I’ve seen Mark servicing the S726 and he uses breaking grease but does not mention which one and I don’t know which one to use. Any suggestions?
  5. Any recommendations for a pith wood holder, something with a lid? I used a small aluminium tin but that’s too light and I pick up the pith wood or even the whole tin with several pith discs. I’d rather not to go the trouble of buying a clock barrel and cutting it down, something easy and practical would be nice
  6. My first time with autos. I believe that autos require breaking grease on the inside of the barrel wall. I looked at the service sheet but it doesn’t show oiling of the barrel wall (NH36). The greases (Moebius) I can see: 8212 – aluminium walls 8213 – brass walls 8217 – large barrel walls (guess - pocket watches, alarm clocks?) How do I tell brass from aluminium without scraping the barrel to see what is under the plating? One more important question. If I grease the main spring with say 8200, surely this will cross contaminate with the breaking grease on the barrel wall. Is not greasing perhaps the last inch of the spring the solution?
  7. Thank you guys, it’s in! I didn’t get to see your messages and carried on fighting with it until I got it in. I held it at an angle following Mark’s video about fitting a new jewel (tightening the stud screw is what was causing me a headache). I wasn’t entirely comfortable doing it and next time I’ll most likely secure the balance with a pin through the cock screw hole to stop it moving around. He makes it look easy! 7:55
  8. What is the best way to assemble balance? I’m finding it very fiddly to get the stud in place and secure it with the stud screw.
  9. Beautiful! Well, not quite, but now the train runs smoothly. I could have made the shim thinner and work my way up until it’s perfect but this is a scrap movement, I use it to find problems and learn how to deal with them. I shimmed it in two places just by the screws. The third screw (the furthest away) did not have any effect on the running of the train when screwed down tightly. Thank you all for your help and input.
  10. Now I understand! I’ll start with aluminium foil and progress to dial washers if need be. When the barrel is between the plate and the bridge on their own it’s not hard or difficult to turn it but the fact that it stops turning immediately as soon as I stop giving it a push is an indication that it’s not right and it needs more freedom to run. It runs smoothly when all bridge screws are in just before they ‘bite’ but as soon as I tighten them it’s not as smooth as I think it should be. *Nickelsilver – everything reverses. It’s usually the centre wheel I give a push when I test it and I used the centre wheel to describe the issue. The barrel reverses a notch (magnifier needed to see it) and the escape wheel spins backwards a lot as you’d expect when the centre wheel turns back 20 – give or take degrees.
  11. Repairs like these are totally new to me. I wouldn’t know how to shim it. But having no end shake, I would have thought I need to make space, bending/filing etc.? I’ll check the main plate and take a picture of it when I get home, currently I only have the one I posted in my second post in this thread.
  12. Fitting the barrel and the bridge on their own proves that the problem is there. The barrel stops as soon as I stop pushing it. And it’s definitely the non existing end shake. It was a struggle testing it, I ended up with the ratchet wheel screw in the barrel arbor and trying to move it with tweezers. The barrel’s end shake is good but the barrel itself when the bridge is fitted does not move up or down. The lid looks good I’d say, I would have thought it would be the barrel arbor shoulder that would cause the friction but I’m no expert, I don’t know. Looking at the bridge, it does look a little bent but I don’t know for sure, it could be the shape that makes it look bent. I am tempted to use peg wood and give the pivot hole a little push but I don’t know whether that’s the way to handle it and maybe I would introduce another problem.
  13. No, I haven’t tried that, I’ll try it this evening and see what it’s like.
  14. I pushed it from the bottom and there was no movement, then I pushed from the top (the threaded hole) and didn’t detect any movement. I don’t quite understand pushing on the opposite sides, that would show the side shake? The barrel lid looks good.
  15. Everything runs smoothly with the train wheel bridge in place but as soon as I tighten the barrel bridge and I test the operation by turning the centre wheel, when it comes to a stop the centre wheels turns back a little, I guess 15-20 degrees (regardless of which way I turn the centre wheel) I’m guessing that this could be due to the bridge being too tight but I don’t know how to test the end shake on a going barrel. This is a very small movement and grabbing the barrel arbor with tweezers doesn’t work (side shake is good). But wouldn’t it just stop instead of going back on itself? This is an old 1940s scrap movment. The main plate, barrel bridge, the going barrel all look fine under magnification and I don’t overly tighten the screws.
  16. Thank you all for your input. I think George is right. I’m not sure whether they would go to the extra expense in China to apply epilame to the parts for clones but who knows. Certainly the surface tension is different on the two stones. The diameter of the drops is different but so is the height (larger diameter – lower height, smaller diameter – higher height) hence I assume the amount of the oil is the same on both endstones. I tried to capture it, you might be able to pick up on it. It’s very visible when you look at it with a loupe in the right light. I also tested another incabloc and it’s absolutely spot on. I was doubting the efficiency of the auto oiler because it takes some time to set it up to get the drop the right size, it certainly would have been much quicker to do it with a standard oiler but the size of the endstones is very much the same regardless of the size of the movements, at least the two I have. Below is a picture of the Unitas 6497 next to the other movement I used for testing, the endstones are almost identical in size. The smaller one is is smaller, but only a fraction.
  17. The drop of oil on the thicker endstone is always larger. I swapped the chatons but that didn’t make any difference. I tried it on my bench mat, I tried with the chatons in the main plate secured with the shock spring. For the past three evenings I’ve been trying all sorts but I always end up with a larger drop on the thicker endstone. When I test it drop by drop on the main plate itself the drops are identical, absolutely perfect. Yet when I try to oil the incabloc it’s always larger on the thicker endstone. It’s not as noticeable as it is in the pictures. I zoomed my phone x4 and put x12 loupe over the lens to take the pictures but it is a larger drop regardless. This is the clone of the Unitas 6497. I have one or two scrap movements with incablocs and I’ll test it on them this weekend. In the meantime if anyone knows why this happens let me know.
  18. Now I know! Thank you guys. Keeping them separate is definitely the safest way to handle it and most likely what I’m going to do in future. Alternatively I could measure them with a micrometer during disassembly and take a note but if only the diameter of the pivot hole is different I don’t know what I’d measure it with, I doubt calipers would cut it.
  19. One of the endstones is clearly thicker and that’s for the balance cock but I don’t know whether the chatons are also different. One chaton jewel is darker than the other, I swapped them round to see whether it is the light causing it but it doesn't appear so. The assembled incablocs, the chatons are in the same place, I swapped the endstones. It looks to me there is no difference but I don’t know for sure.
  20. I found a BHI document online. It all depends whether the endstone has been treated with Epilame or not. If treated, when assembled it should cover 2/3 of the diameter and if not treated it should cover ½ of the diameter when assembled. The other two methods are as nickelsilver described, a fine pin and the 1A auto oiler.
  21. I’ve been following Mark’s course and he tells us that the oil should cover 30% of the end stone – that’s what I have been doing. I have a book by Mark W. Wiles who states that the oil should be 50%-70% What do you think?
  22. Yes it is. It's in my spares, I was using it for testing the two methods, it's not going to be installed anywhere, otherwise I would have put around 30% there
  23. I had another go and it works just fine. Maybe I didn’t have the oiler straight and the needle was hitting the chaton or the chaton jewel. Both methods work well. The pic with one hole in the rodico is push the button first, and the pic with two holes in the rodico is the needle in first method.
  24. I have the book still opened on that page on my desk! Yes I did read it and this method was the first method I tried but I couldn’t do it, the oil always ended up around the chaton jewel. M. Wiles uses Bergeon 2718 and the new ones are 7718, I don’t know whether there are any differences except the stand. This is from Bergeon:
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