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PeterS

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Everything posted by PeterS

  1. I’ve been looking at them. Tweezer nose or tweezer nose bent sound like they should be up to the job. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/xuron-usa-made-pliers
  2. Sounds like a good plan. I’m going to have to look for some suitable pliers, the pair I have is certainly not up to the job.
  3. Maybe the crown wheel ring? Try whether it fits on the crown wheel post and if it does see whether the crown wheel fits on it.
  4. Yes, this is manual wind. How do you tighten it? I believe the carbon is very fragile. After tightening it might work on a Nivaflex winder, at this moment it’s too loose and the eye doesn’t catch the hook. Manually as place the spring against the barrel inner wall and start winding it in? I can put dots of grease on the barrel and the lid but I’m not sure what you mean by rinse. Is there a particular tool for winding carbon springs?
  5. I disassembled an old scrap movement and this is my first encounter with a carbon mainspring. There is plenty of information on the modern alloy mainsprings across the web but I’m not finding much info about the carbon ones. 1. Disassembly – trying to disassemble it the same way as with Nivaflex it popped out unexpectedly (possibly due to my handling and the small size, about 8mm barrel). 2. Assembly – What’s the best way to get the spring into the barrel? Tools can be purchased for modern alloy mainsprings but I can’t find anything for carbon. Perhaps one of the antique K&D winders that can be seen on Ebay? 3. Barrel arbor fitting – the arbor loosely fits into the coil (pics below) unlike the Nivaflex. I don’t know whether this is how it should be with carbon springs or whether the spring is stretched. It could do with a new mainspring but as this is a scrap movement, I don’t intend to spend money on it, it’s for practice only.
  6. If you have a casing cushion or something similar place the barrel with the spring on the cushion before you attempt to fit the arbor in. It’s very soft in the middle and you will need this for the arbour to go in all the way. Otherwise your mat/desk will prevent you from pushing the arbor all the way down.
  7. I’ve never had any issues with them. Delivery is always next day in the UK and the prices in most cases are better than elsewhere. I ordered a wrong item, they took it back without quibbles. I also bought a Bergeon oil pot stand that was shedding paint from the lid into the reservoirs, they had to send it to Bergeon (I think they have to do it with all Bergeon tools) it took four weeks but that’s not their fault. I agree with m1ks, you can’t phone them. I looked for a phone number but that was for orders only. But they are not watchmakers, their knowledge is probably limited and having more staff to answer calls would inevitably increase their prices. They do have a lot of stock to choose from, certainly more than anyone else in the UK.
  8. I had a good look at it when I got home and they come in pairs: 00/0, 1/2, 3/4… 13/14/15 the arbor diameter is the same but 15 has larger ‘cover disk’ than 13 and 14. From what I can see without measuring it, the arbor diameters and the disk diameters are the same. If you were buying it separately and you need, say 7 and 8 winders (they are different diameters), you can take your pick and buy 7 or 8 arbor/crank for the two winders. I think this is how it’s intended to be. I don’t know why and I don’t know how Mark managed to get the spring on the size 11 arbor, but it is a clone and he probably disassembled and assembled the going barrel several times and that possibly stretched it a bit. The pics below, the arbors are from left to right 3, 4, 5, 6, the others are 11 and 12 and I swapped the arbors, you will see the numbers on the winders and the arbors, see how it overhangs on the no 11 winder even when swapped. Also a picture of No 10 arbor in no 11 winder. I thought the newer 17 set might have been different but see the screenshot from Mark’s YouTube video (light wood colour box) and you should be able to see how they overhang as well. Of course I can’t see the sizes of the arbors but I doubt it will be different.
  9. I'm trying to concentrate on tools that I need to use to disassemble and assemble a watch movement for now. I know calipers are not expensive but it’s not needed it for it. I’m trying to work out whether the set of mainspring winders is what it should be or whether there is a problem.
  10. I don't need them at this moment, I'm still learning to walk. But I will need to get some now.
  11. I’ll have to borrow or buy a Vernier gauge to measure them properly. Visually, there is no difference between No. 12 and No. 11. There is an obvious visual difference between No. 11 and No. 10 (again, no visual difference between No. 10 and No. 9). The fact that No. 12 fits into No. 11 winder is a little strange. Maybe that’s the way they are but it doesn’t seem to make sense. Perhaps someone who has the set could enlighten me whether the set I have is no good or whether that’s how they come.
  12. Do you have the set? It seems to be in pairs the arbors and I don't know anything about it. It would seem logical for the arbors to have different diameters but I don't know what they should be.
  13. I bought the Bergeon set of 17 mainspring winders and used it for the first time on the Unitas 6497 (clone) following Mark’s tutorial. He used No. 11. I really struggled to get the spring on the arbor. I had to put the spring on the mat, I had to use tweezers and literally force the arbor on the spring, it was a fight (he struggled too and it was off the camera so I can’t actually see how he put it on). I know that many often use arbors one size smaller than the winder but I had exactly the same movement as Mark and he used the No. 11. If I didn’t see his video I would have used No. 10 arbor and No. 11 winder. The No. 10 was a tight fit but it went on without a fight but I went with No. 11 as per Mark’s video. What surprised me is that when I looked at No. 12, the diameter of the arbor was same as the diameter of No. 11, No. 12 arbor fits perfectly into No. 11 winder. I would have expected No. 11 arbor to be of a diameter somewhere between No. 12 and No. 10. I compared couple of others and they were the same case, No. 10 arbor same diameter as No. 9
  14. I did suspect that the nozzles would be different sizes but I couldn’t tell from looking at the images. It all makes sense now! Could anyone give me some more details about the 2A? I can see that the 1A could be very useful, probably the 5 as well but I can’t see much use for the 2A oiler, perhaps a precise amount of 9415 (or other pallet grease) on the pallet stone and that’s it?
  15. Does anyone know the difference between the Bergeon automatic oilers? They all look the same when I look at the pictures so I’m wondering if I get the 1A why couldn’t I use it for train wheel pivots and cup bearings instead of the oiler 5 if I put the appropriate oil in the 1A oiler?
  16. That looks far better than the one I have. I don’t think mine goes up to 6500K. Mine makes no difference at all when I have the bench lamp on, not even worth switching on. It’s few years old now and the bench light is fairly new.
  17. Yes please, a rough drawing would be fantastic. Thank you.
  18. 18W sounds great, can you post a link so I know what I’m looking for? I'm sure I would find something similar in the UK.
  19. I'm going to have to do something. One decent desk lamp and bulbs high up in the ceiling are not enough for me.
  20. Yes, something like that might do the job. In many ways similar to the goose neck lamp I’m looking at. If only I knew what I need. The light in the picture I posted is very good (not the small one), it’s the fact that it is slightly in front of me hence the shadows. I can move it right above what I’m working on, but again, there will be shadows elsewhere because my hand and head will get in the way. I’m starting to think that a floor lamp next or close to me will be the best solution, casting the light from opposite direction. A head torch would be perfect but I don’t want to sit there with it on for hours. When I look at Mark’s oiling videos (jewels) it’s so clear, yes it’s a lot more magnified than my 12x loupe but there are no dark areas.
  21. I’d love that but I don’t have a dedicated desk, it will have to be an additional light that’s easy to put away and ideally not too big.
  22. I usually get to tinker with it later on when it’s dark. I just bought two 15W cool light - light bulbs for the room, it helps a little but it’s not great, it’s too high in the ceiling. Ideally I could do with something behind me (from the side) and fairly close to cancel the shadows but having a floor lamp would be very awkward. Ideally I’d like something I could put on the desk, sort of a spot light that’s powerful and I could move about and direct the light where I need it.
  23. I struggle with lighting. I have a good 21 Watt, 6500 K led desk lamp but I need something additional due to shadows. Oiling jewels is difficult, slots in screw heads can be difficult to see… I do have a little led lamp (in the picture) but that’s too high and doesn’t help at all. I could get an adjustable floor lamp and put a good bulb in it but it’s not very practical, I’d have to keep moving it out of the way all the time. I’m thinking of a ‘goose neck’ led lamp: https://durston.com/product/durston-led-goose-neck-lamp-dim-cct-white-eu-plug/ Is there something good around 15W I could get?
  24. Lighter fluid contains traces of oil so it would need to go in a fluid that has been formulated for watch cleaning afterwards to remove the traces of oil. What kind of penetrating oil do you use on stubborn screws? A bottle of it would be handy should I need it.
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