Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Thats the same company I posted the link for the other day except its their ebay listing.

Much easier to buy from I would imagine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats the same company I posted the link for the other day except its their ebay listing.

Much easier to buy from I would imagine.

 

I realized that after I posted. Same name and same photos of the lamp.

 

If it's a good quality lamp, the price isn't out of line. Based on the feedback from Geo and Mark, it's tempting...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I realized that after I posted. Same name and same photos of the lamp.

If it's a good quality lamp, the price isn't out of line. Based on the feedback from Geo and Mark, it's tempting...

Certainly looks to be a good light.

I'm loathed to pay £100 for something that I see for sale in Europe for £60.

Besides, the leds used aren't that expesive. Might try and convert any old tube light myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Certainly looks to be a good light.

I'm loathed to pay £100 for something that I see for sale in Europe for £60.

Besides, the leds used aren't that expesive. Might try and convert any old tube light myself.

 

It actually came to £99 including VAT and Shipping.

 

I have used the lamp for the last two days, today I had a full working day under this lamp and I have to say I am very impressed. The light is ample, it does not hinder work. I can have it a bit further away and it still emits enough light.

 

The light is easy on the eyes with no flicker, no eye fatigue in sight (:)

No noise like some lamps I have used in the past.

No heat generated like my previous lamp. 

At them moment - nothing bad to report.

 

It is well worth the money in my opinion - as long as it lasts (I am sure it will).

 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked around locally and found it as well, but the price is £120 ex VAT so I'd much rather buy it from Cousins, but unfortunately the only shipping option they offer adds over £70 to the price. :angry:

Wouldn't it be worth checking how much the polish companies will charge to send it to you?

The light is around £55.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't it be worth checking how much the polish companies will charge to send it to you?

That would be nice but the Polish companies that I found only seemed to sell domestic. No foreign shipping options, and no english language doesn't help either.

 

I'm still hoping a Chinese source can be found. That lamp cdjswiss found looks interesting for example.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys, if you convert one, please, post your experience with the mod. I'd rather tinker with those...more enjoyable!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

I'm a tinkerer too, though usually my projects end up costing more than just buying whatever I'm trying to make. I've been doing some experimenting with heat sinks and different leds/power supplies.

 

nichia_on_heatsink.jpg

 

I'm really liking this mod, but unfortunately, the only place I can find that lamp for sale is from Germany.

 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?357036-SIS-desk-lamp-modding-with-2x-50W-Epistar-LEDs&p=4157661#post4157661

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Bob. The SIS lamp mod isn't mine. The picture is of some leds I stuck on a bit of heatsink to test brightness at different currents. I want something brighter than my current light. At 700mA those 4 leds are much brighter, but they run really hot - the heatsink gets up to 114° F. I'm going to try a larger number of more efficient leds at a lower drive current and possibly a chunkier heatsink. By interrupters, you mean those grey and orange thingies? Those are a cool replacement for wire nuts. They make it easy to connect and disconnect wires. Great for testing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

I've been reading the forums for a while but not had anything to contribute. I felt the need to add my thanks to those suggesting the light from Cousins. I'd been looking for a new one for my bench for a while as my current one, whilst otherwise fine, has become a bit noisy. I'd been looking at ones costing quite a bit more than this one, but thought I'd give it a try given the positive comments. Glad I did - it really is good value I think, and so far totally silent. I've moved my other lamp over to my cleaning area where the noise is no longer noticeable, so it's worked out well. Thanks!

Stephen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I bit the bullet and ordered this light via Amazon

$129.99 + free shipping

Am I the first person in the U.S. to order one?

I'll let everyone know when it arrives and what I think.

Looks like FixFind also has an Amazon shop along with their website I posted and Don posted their eBay listing the other week. Way to maximise its presence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my wishlist too. Thanks, icius. All the searching I did for that and it's on Amazon Prime.

 

Please let us know how you like and whether you need a voltage adapter. The description says, "Voltage: 220-240V".

 

Don

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was worried about the voltage information as well.  I assumed (perhaps naively) that a U.S. seller selling a product to U.S. customers would be selling a product that would actually work in the U.S.  

 

Can any of you guys with this light put my mind at ease?  Does it come with plug adapters and does it say it is rated for 110-120 v as well?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If you live in the UK then you can take the exams at Upton Hall at BHI head quarters in Nottinghamshire UK.  Since I live in the US, I found an invigilator in my town, approved by the BHI exams supervisor, to manage my exams here locally.  My invigilator will receive the exam material and provide it to me at the appropriate day for the designated amount of time I have to perform the test.   In the higher level courses there are some that you must take at Upton Hall in person (D9, D11, D16, D18 and D20). You can find more information here   https://bhi.co.uk/training-education/examinations/    I still have to decide what level I want to achieve, but know my understanding of horology has greatly improved by the material I have covered thus far in this course.  
    • Yes. I understand (now). I regret to say that I am servicing watches without fulling understanding the cannon pinion function in relation with setting the time  (and many other theory aspects of the orology!!!). If is too tight the hands won't move and on the contrary. If the pallet fork is not installed the train of wheels will spin freely and if the remontoir is on the setting position the motion wheels will also move. I will use HP 1300 for the cannon pinion setting. I am happy and grateful and of course I will report back as soon as I can. Thanks   
    • Hi Fernando, read carefully what @eccentric59 wrote, it is the key to You problem. Lubricate the cannon pinion. Take care to understand what is it's function. When You set time, the train doesn't move, but only the cannon pinion moves. Put hte lever back in it's place, it has nothing to do with time setting
    • Hi fernando. Let us know how you get on.
    • OK, in You case You will assemble the movement with the line attached to the barrel and fusee and will  wind the line  entirely on the barrel after that. It is important when replacing the line to know the correct lenght of the line. The rule is that when line wound on the fudsee entirely, about 1/4 turn still to remain on the barrel. Yes, no tension. The ratchet is not placed yet, the spring in the barrel is complitelly unwound. At the end of the step the fusee is empty and the line is attached to it and strained perpendiculary to it, not on tangent. The escape wheel. Use whatever that will not damage anything. Yes, this is typing mistake, sorry. The word 'pendulum' here is not correct, You should use 'anchor' and yes, it is removed from the movement at this point, according my instruction 1 (Ihave used the word 'lever' there):   Ok, let sey the barrel arbour makes 6 full turns when winding the spring in the barrel from unwound to fully wound state of the spring. Let sey that the barrel makes 4.5 full turns when winding the clock from fully unwound (the line is on the barrel) to fully wound (the line is on the fusee) state. This means that You should not wind the spring in the barlel when adjusting the initial tension to more than 1.5 turns of the arbour of the barrel.  If You make 2 full turns, then when winding the clock, the barrel will be able to turn to only 4 turns, so the limiting device will not limit the rotation of the fusee arbour and You will be able to force the line much more than when the limiting device acts, also the power reserve will be less. Hope this is clear now... Yes, but again - not the pendulum, but the anchour.   About the loosing time... In this kind of escapement, the frequency pritty much depends on the torque. The higher torque - the highrer frequency. This is because this escapement forces the pendulum to oscillate significantly faster than it's own resonant fequency. The frequency depends on the 'depth' of the escapement too - the deeper escapement is, the lower the frequency, and the higher amplitude of pendulum oscillations. The heavier the pendulum is, the harder to the movement (the escapement torque) to force the pendulum to oscillate faster than it's own frequency. And in the end, the own pendulum frequency depends only on the pendulum lenght and a little on the suspension spring 'strenght' This are all the relations between all the factors. You can try to use the old spring (if it is not broken) and see if the clock will work faster with it. Yes, the old springs of fusee clocks sometimes give bigger torque than modern ones, no matter if they seem to be 'set' You can shorten the pendulum to achieve correct frequency. If the torque is reduced, but enough for the movement to work reliably,  then reduced torque will only lead to lessen the wear. The torque in fusee movements is more or less constant all the time, this is the function of the fusee. You can use the Clock Tuner  free app for android to adjust faster the clock rate. You will need to know the BPH of the movement, so count the teeth of the wheels and pinions and calculate the BPH
×
×
  • Create New...