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PeterS last won the day on May 21 2018

PeterS had the most liked content!

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About PeterS

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    Winsford, UK

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  1. I cleaned them and I was going to oil them with the 1A oiler.
  2. I've been using this sheet for oiling, it's the 13-2 and no. 13 is the barrel bridge. Looks like a scrap S726 will be my option as there is no part number so I can't search for it on Cousins website.
  3. I take it the jewels are not readily available. First time trying to install the shock springs, lost both jewels. Not a good day.
  4. I've lost the cap jewel (NH36) that goes in the barrel/train wheel bridge. Seiko doesn't specify the part number, it looks like it's part of the bridge. Any idea where I could get a replacement?
  5. I'm not sure, I presume GeoMontreal knows
  6. Go for the Chinese springs, the genuine will not fit. You may be lucky and find one amongst the assorted ones.
  7. I'll see what is on Ebay. To speed it up, I'll probably end up making one from the 3mm piece if I can't find anything there for a reasonable price. If I find a thick piece of brass/copper I'd like to make one as per the picture bellow. The 'slot' and the hole are there to stop transferring heat from one side to another leaving the other side cool.
  8. That's really good. Far better than the flake/shaving I was thinking of.
  9. OK, so it is not necessary to remove the shellac. I'll try reheating it first and see whether it's going to set. If not, I could perhaps try a very small flake/shaving on the top and heat it until it starts melting. It sounds straight forward, but considering the size of the pallet jewel, I know it's going to be a nightmare at first. I'm going to have to make the jig first of all. I'll have to look for a thick piece of brass or copper, 1/4 inch ideally. According to the book I have here it is better as it retains heat longer hence doesn't have to be reheated as often. Cousins only sell
  10. I wanted to test the travel between the banking and the guard pin and managed to loosen the exit pallet jewel in the process of doing so. No harm done, it's NH36 I bought for testing. The exit jewel is under the pallet bridge, very much impossible to test it. I couldn't get there with an oiler so I used a curved dental too. I wasn't applying much pressure, at least I don't think so but considering the scale, the dental tool is quite large. After all this, I didn't manage to test the travel on the exit jewel, entry was fine and accessible. Couple of questions: Was it my fault or was the
  11. Most of the time I'm working on scrap movements. There is no point to replace the oil in the oil cups for such work. I've ordered the Seiko greases and will give them a go. Some watches have not been serviced for more than five years and they are still going well so I guess their greases can't be that bad. I will change the oil in the cups when I work on watches that will be worn but that doesn't happen that often. I will replace the oils when they expire. They don't expire at the same time so it will be £20 here and there now and again. That's not as bad when you pay out £200.
  12. Thank you for letting me know. I ordered the Seiko greases to make it easier.
  13. I have more recent Seiko movements 7s26, 4R36 and 6R15. I do not have Seiko greases but have some Swiss oils and greases. What do you recommend instead of the S4 and S6? I think I could make use of Moebius 9501, I'm also looking to replace D5 with HP but not sure whether it's the 1300 or 1000
  14. There is one on ebay now, not much time left on it and I'm not sure whether it is the smaller size
  15. I'll be browsing ebay and hopefully I will find one. That's a disappointment from Bergeon, it would have been much better if they supplied it with two collets, or to give you an option to buy a different size.
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