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Everything posted by Tmuir

  1. This link goes a bit into the discoloration of glass by radiation and apparently is known as 'radiation browning' http://birns.com/uploads/file/Radiation-induced Discoloration.pdf The clock I saw it on had not worked for decades, had heavy radium paint on the hands and the hands had stayed in the same place over that time causing the discoloration of the glass inline with the hands.
  2. I agree the yellow is age and its not glass it's plastic, its the blackening above the hands I'm talking about. I only mentioned glass as the only other time I've seen this was on the glass of a clock with radium hands. I also agree owning it wouldn't be dangerous, and if you are careful with cleaning it would be safe to work on this watch, but I'm going to pass on this watch as the evidence points to it having more radium paint on it than usual.
  3. Have a look at this military pocket watch from WWII. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Elgin-Military-GSTP-WWII-Pocket-Watch-1943-9-Jewels-size-16s/164090389422?hash=item26348ca3ae:g:0CEAAOSw0AxeTsCc Have a look at the photo of the dial it looks like the radium on the hands has blackened the crystal. I have seen this before on clocks with a lot of radium on the hands giving a purple tint to the glass dial, but never seen this on a watch before and never that dark. Has anyone else ever seen this on a watch before?
  4. As long as your competent with mains electricity wiring and your doing it just for yourself, go for it. I don't know what the electrical laws are in the USA, but in Australia you would actually need a restricted electrical lenience to work on something like that. A valve driven ultrasonic cleaner, that a first on me, I didn't even know they had been making them for that long.
  5. Thats interesting to know. I really only know them from the adverts they used to put on the back of the TV guides selling overpriced pewter items. I think if you unscrew the screw a few turns to the right of the winding stem in the photo that would release the stem, but looking at your previous photos the other side looks looks pretty rusted so it might be seized.
  6. From the little I know about Franklin mint is from the 'collectors coins' they sell. Usually for very high prices, but they have very little resell value, the same is probably the case for their watches, but either way with the amount of rust showing for what it would be worth I'm not sure it would be worth fixing. Although a quick search did turn up that Franklin mint did make some gold cased watches so it is probably worth a look at the case atleast to see if its solid gold or just plated. If solid it should have a hallmark somewhere.
  7. Best I can suggest is trawl ebay for similar watches and use the advanced function to show sold only watches as to ensure you find out what people are willing to pay, not watch other people want to sell for.
  8. I'm sorry for you Oldhippy. I've got 2 cats, which I've had for 18 years, I understand your loss.
  9. Bummer, hope they continue with the repair so you can post updates.
  10. Yes the gum is the 'glue' to hold the enamel on the metal until it is fired. Go look up a enameling supplier and you will find they sell a premixed gum that you can use which is easier than making your own. You can also buy preground enamel rather than having to grind your own which just requires washing with distilled water. Years ago I played around a bit with enameling to make some jewelry for my wife. To do enameling well isn't easy and for something as large as a watch dial you really need a kiln to heat it evenly and to allow it to cool gradually so the enamel does not crack. You also need to enamel both sides of the dial to even the stress out, for the back sides most enamelers save their waste enamel, that is bits that missed what they are enameling when sifting it on that has mixed with other colours. Not much modern written material on enameling watch dials, but lots on enameling jewelry which would give you a good place to start.
  11. I've got a 1920s Jaeger car clock with platform escapement that I need to make a new balance staff for and tonight I will measure the broken balance staff to get all the critical measurements. Previously I have just made a rough hand drawn sketch of a balance staff but decided it would be nicer if I had a good diagram I could use to write the measurements on and then keep it filed away should I ever have to make another ABEC balance staff. I was thinking of making one up in CAD from scratch but in flicking through Henry Fried's book 'The Watch Makers Manual' I found a perfect diagram. Took a photo of it, did some clean up of it in GIMP and then turned it into a PDF file for easy printing. I have set the PDF to be A4 size. I have attached the PDF and a JPG of the image too as I thought this may be of use to other people. If you haven't already got a copy of Henry's book I do recommend it, as in my opinion it gives the best walk though on making a balance staff using only the equipment an average watchmaker would have in their workshop. Balance Staff.pdf
  12. If you can remove the dial and take a photo of the movement from that side and give the measurement of the movement it is highly likely we can work out what it is, but my knowledge isn't good enough to id it from just the back.
  13. I love the fact even the sellers aren't sure what they are for.
  14. I get the idea of making gauges for jewel holes, but why don't you just start with blue steel and machine that to dimension then you don't need to harden and temper. Yes Blue steel will blunt you gravers quicker, but its what you use to make balance staffs anyhow, so its good practice as trying to harden and temper things that small is not easy. It sounds like the steel you have is carbon steel as you say a file won't touch it after hardening, but if you have a bench grinder there is an easy test you can do to see if the steel you have is carbon steel so can be hardened. It is called 'The spark test'. Putting it simply mild steel when put on the grinder will give only small sparks, straight line that just disappear. Carbon steel gives 'sparkly sparks' what I mean by this is the spark will come of the grinder and then branch out into more sparks, a bit like a growing tree branch. If you get some carbon steel and then just a mild steel nail and put them on the grinder one after the other you will see what I'm talking about.
  15. I do like how the pattern on the back plate has been continued on the brackets to hold it in the clock. I've not seen that before. I do like the hands although it looks like the minute hand has been twisted slightly, but I would think long and hard before trying to straighten it.
  16. I've just noticed in the photos it looks like the mean time screws are all screwed in flush with the rim of the balance, usually they are unscrewed slightly from factory to regulate the watch, the fact they are all screwed in makes me think someone has fiddled with it.
  17. The ones on the arms are know as 'Mean Time Arm screws' and the ones in the middle are 'Meantime Rim Screws'. I've never had to do this but when you think about it you must adjust all 4 equally or the balance will go out of poise. Henry Fried's book says half a turn can give or take out to a minute a day.
  18. I can understand why people may want to do this, but its not my thing. One of my previous hobbies used to be restoring old toy live steam engines. If they were completely trashed I would restore them back to better than new, but my preference was always to preserve its 'patina' if possible acquired other the 60 to 100 years of its life. On the other hand with a watch I think I like them looking as new as possible, but I never touch the dials and otehr than a gentle wiping of dirt and dust leave the dials to show their age. Add or removing patina is always a hotly debated topic, although I never considered it before on watches except for very rare and historic items.
  19. I think its pretty standard for most tools Horological tools to not come with instructions, even the expensive ones (Timing machines excluded) much to my annoyance. I guess the idea is if your buying an expensive watch makers tool you should of already completed some formal training that has taught you how to use the tool. Are the two brass tubes identical to each other, or do they have different inside diameters? The part of the winder you hold in your hand that has the plunger in it doesn't fit nicely inside the tube does it? Just wondering if its somehow to make it easier to hold being it is so short compared to the Bergeon one
  20. Is the fact the middle dial is for Bombay time, telling us something? I think I'll pass but I am intrigued as to how you set the times for the different time zones as you would need to be able to adjust them independently so you can adjust for daylight savings when they start and end in each zone.
  21. You could try the oldschool way of vibrating it ontop of a pocket watch. 18000 bph is 150 vibrations a minute, or 25 in 10 seconds. STart the hairspring vibrating just before the second hand on the watch reaches zero and count the vibrations until it reaches 10 second. If your count is less than 25 its too slow, so shorten the spring, above 25 its too fast so make it longer. If you don't think you can count that quick video record it on your phone, use slow motion if necescary and then count them in the play back. Read the second paragraph on this link https://books.google.com.au/books?id=gML7DAAAQBAJ&pg=PT49&lpg=PT49&dq=vibrating+hairspring+on+glass+pocket+watch'&source=bl&ots=X-TZ1ZJWQs&sig=ACfU3U20BIbXyE7zfl2nI7YPx06-xXOPTQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiPs9XO6ornAhWqIbcAHY2_AGsQ6AEwEXoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=vibrating hairspring on glass pocket watch'&f=false
  22. No offense really taken, most people call it a shed, I just like to call it a workshop to distinguish it from the 'shed' that stores our push bikes, brush cutter and chainsaw. Also if I call it a shed my wife thinks that means it can be used to store stuff rather than a place for me to fix and make things
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