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Everything posted by Tmuir

  1. Tmuir

    Some new acquisitions!

    Very nice haul, I really want a pivot gauge like you just got.
  2. Tmuir

    Where was this movement made?

    Yee Gods!! The time you spend servicing that movement will be more than its worth. I'm going to guess China, or somewhere else in Asia
  3. Watch out when you remove the balance jewels for cleaning the shockproof spring is a real PITA to refit. The russian movements may not be the prettiest, but they are solidly built that's for sure.
  4. The blue grease is Moebius 9501. I put it on the tip of the winding stem that fits in the hole in the movement plate and a tiny dot on all 4 sides of the square that the pinion slides up and down on and 1 or 2 dots on the teeth of the sliding pinion and 1 dot in the slot that the yoke sits in. Likewise a dot where the setting leaver locks in on the setting leaver spring. I use D5 for the pivots of the yoke and setting lever
  5. I usually use Moebius 9501 on winding stems and winding sliding pinion, but my notes also say Molycote DX can also be used so I would go with your Molycote. Use just the tiniest amounts, mark has videos of youtube showing how to apply it.
  6. Tmuir

    broken mainspring

    You must remove the section of the spring the will become the loose bit before you heat the mainspring as heating the mainspring to red will anneal the spring steal so it can bend, not break. If you do not remove the bit of the spring that will become the loose bit first it would also be heated and annealed and then under tension in the barrel when the watch is would up it could buckle and let the mainspring go which would most likely damage the watch
  7. Tmuir

    broken mainspring

    Pages from the book that explain how to make a loose hook end for a mainspring
  8. Tmuir

    broken mainspring

    You could in theory fix it, but I would measure the mainspring and see if you can buy a replacement. They used to rivet the extra bit on, but now its usually spot welded, but in some older watches they just have a loose end mainspring hook, which you might be able to do for this spring if you can't find a replacement, but it would be tricky. W.J. Gazeley's book Watch and clock making and repairing explains how to do this. (1950s book). I will take a photo and post it from the book shortly.
  9. Tmuir

    Beginner - mechanism questions

    I think before anyone will be able to help you need to post full photos of the front and back of the movement so people can identify the movement.
  10. Tmuir

    Tool Identification and Use

    No worries, I've spent plenty of time just thumbing through the books reading about odd looking tools that the pictures have caught my eye, the Riveting thimble and stand being one of those tools, you won't regret buying it for $20. A lot
  11. Tmuir

    Tool Identification and Use

    From the 1902 edition of 'Watch and Clockmakers' Handbook Dictionary and Guide' by Britten. These books do turn up regulary on ebay as there have been many editions of it pribted and they are well worth getting to help identify old tools. I also have a 1938 edition of this book which is my favorite of all my reference books as my grandfather signed his name in the book in January 1944 when I assume he first got it.
  12. Tmuir

    Tool Identification and Use

    It's a pedestal stand and riveting stakes. It allows you to hold the stake with one finger and support the item with the rest of your hand. Basically it lets you do work that you would normally need a thirs hand for. That picture is showing a minute hand been driven onto a pocket watch. I'll take a photo of the page from Britten's Watch and Clockmakers handbook
  13. Six or so years ago on a trip to UK I bought myself a Tame Side Fusee Clock. I was actually after a more traditional English Fussee clock, but all the good ones I saw were a bit out of my price range and then I stumbled across this one in Edinburgh. My family is from Newburgh in Fife which for those that know the population of Fife is only around 2000, so finding a clock that was obviously made for someone that had a business in Newburgh was too much to pass up on. On returning home I had it serviced by a person that had a very professional website and talked the talk as a professional watch repairer. This was before I started to learn Horology. When I got the clock back I was never happy with the clock and when I questioned what he had done he got a bit shirty with me and basically tried to tell me I didn't know what I was talking about. At this point I just gave up and adjusted it the best I could which was the clock running fast by 10 minutes on the first 3 days and back to within a minute or 2 by 6 days, if I left it to the 7th day to wind it, it would be miles slow. I stopped winding the clock 2 years ago and decided to leave it until I was ready to service it myself knowing it already needed a new suspension spring as it had a small kink in it and despite me asking the repairer to replace it he didn't telling me it was fine and I was wrong it needed to be replaced. I have since learnt this repairer has a notorious reputation of ruining clocks and have also seen many examples of clocks butchered by this person, he had previously applied to join a professional association for watch and Clock Makers, but has been refused as he did not meet the associations guidelines for quality and ethics. Long story over this is my clock. I had already removed the movement when I realised I didn't have a photo of the case and dial, so the hands are just sat on the dial so you can see them, nice Scottish theremed hands with Thistles on them. Back of movement this photo was taken years ago before I had it serviced, notice the kinked suspension spring, it came back like this to me, also in this photo the spring appears to be held in place correctly by a screw, but it came back with a bent taper pin jammed in place of the screw. This is an odd fussee movement in that it has no ratchet and click for the mainspring barrel. It just has a brass plate that is screwed onto the plate after the barrel is tensioned up and as far as I can tell this is original. (We will get to the solder) This is a photo I just took tonight with the front plate removed, notice the oil all over everything. I've yet to dismantle the mainspring barrel and clean it, but from what I can see under all the oil it looks like he cracked the edge of the barrel so the cover would not click back in, so soft soldered it in. I will find out for sure once it is cleaned but it looks like I may need to make a new mainspring barrel which is going to be an interesting exercise to say the least. I fully expectthe spring to be set too as I know he also did not replace it. Fun times ahead
  14. Tmuir

    Tame Side Fusee Clock in need of TLC

    For those interested here is a photo of the cracks in the barrel wall, you can see them extending out from both slots for holding the wire although the crack on the left side is not as visible it is cracked through the barrel too, hence why I Need to make a new barrel. My order of brass tube and 1.5mm brass sheet arrived today, as the biggest cost is the postage I ordered more than I need, enough to make 2 more barrels. I've got to wait for a cool day as its too hot to work in my workshop at the moment. I've never made a barrel from scratch before so it will be an interesting learning experience.
  15. As mentioned in a post the other day it is hard to get suspension spring in any size other than 0.15mm. I'm just wondering how much difference it would make to the clock if you used thicker or thinner suspension spring. Obviously if it is thicker it would take more force to move the pendulum the same amount of arc so a thicker spring would result in a smaller arc of movement of the pendulum and a thinner one more, but the question is how much difference? I've got a English fusee clock that has a 0.1mm suspension spring fitted whilst cousins sells 0.15mm for English fusee clocks. Checking the slit in the pendulum rod with a 0.15mm watch spring I can see its fits nicely, so its possible my clock was just fitted with the wrong size spring at some point in the past. I'm thinking of just sucking it and seeing if 0.15mm suspension spring will work, or does anyone has a way of working out the optimum suspension spring thickness as unlike mainspring sizes which has formulas to use I can find nothing on suspension springs.
  16. I have the expensive Horotec version of this and have used it to remove several bezels off Seiko watches. The cheaper version can't be that much different, but I've never used it on a Omega. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-Repair-Tool-GF07115-Snap-On-Watch-Back-Case-Opener-Watch-Bezel-Remover/123421758268?hash=item1cbc82933c:g:-VMAAOSwIUpbxA8A:rk:26:pf:0 This is the Horotec version. I bought mine when this website had a 20% off sale and being I live in Australia I also didn't have to pay VAT, so paid considerably less than the price listed here, but it was still expensive. https://www.eternaltools.com/horotec-bezel-remover-and-pressure-case-back-opener
  17. Tmuir

    Purchasing a Single Jewel

    If you can find a place that sells them cheaply let me know. I just recently spent £10.95 to buy a pack of 3 jewels for a pocket watch I'm repairing, but they are friction fit not rubbed in. I just recently purchased a lot of moment parts with one of the main reason being I can salvage the jewels to use for future repairs, in other movements.
  18. Tmuir

    Tame Side Fusee Clock in need of TLC

    Yes I've got a pretty much fully kitted out workshop, previous to learning how to repair watches and clocks I used to collect and restore toy live steam engines and I would usually have to manufacture parts for them hence my workshop with a Chinese lathe, Sherline lathe, X2 mill, drill press, cold cutting bandsaw, bench grinder etc.
  19. Tmuir

    Tame Side Fusee Clock in need of TLC

    Thanks, just working out my parts order now. Besides the parts I also need a couple of new broaches as the mainspring barrel bush will require broaches larger than my biggest size. Cousins sells the larger cutting broaches, but doesn't do any smoothing broaches over 6mm. Even M&P look not to do any bigger than 8mm, its not the end of the world if I cant find a large smoothing broach, but do you know anywhere that sells them up to just over 9mm?
  20. Tmuir

    Tame Side Fusee Clock in need of TLC

    I do have a question for you though about the line oldhippy. This clock just has solder blobs on the end of the lines to stop them slipping out on both end and the barrel only has 2 slots not 3 so was not tied in as per the regular way. It just went in one slot and out the next and the solder blob stopped it from pulling back out. Although now I need to make a new barrel I will be looking at using 3 holes to do it the traditional way. But back to the solder blobs, from what I've read on the cheaper fusee movements made after 1900 this was a common way to fit the wires, and on the fusee end I think I will need to do this again. I'm assuming this will make it not possible to use the nylon coated wire if I need to make a solder blob on the end. Have you ever worked on fusee clocks that used this method to stop the wire pulling out and if so is there any trick to making the solder blob, or just melt some solder on and don't add too much? The fusee is now fixed, I redrilled the screw hole to take an 8BA thread, tapped it and reamed out the keyway piece hole for the screw head to fit the slightly larger size screw head.
  21. On careful examination of the mainspring barrel from my fusee clock today I found 2 more cracks I had previously missed and these are serious ones, the go right through the brass and extend down the side of the barrel for over 10mm and start from the slots where the sire will sit so to play it safe I need to make a new barrel. The outside diameter of the barrel is 54mm, so I need to find some thick walled brass tube just slightly bigger diameter than this that I can use to machine a new one. I've never needed to buy brass tubing that large before and all the palces I can think of that might sell it don't have any. Has anyone got an idea where I could buy some from?
  22. Ok, I've answered my own question. http://www.iantcobb.co.uk/ They sell 2 1/4 inch (approx 57mm) brass tube 1/8 inch think. Whilst my barrel is only 1.5mm (approx 1/16 inch ). So my barrel has an inside diameter of approx 51mm, and the tube in the link above has approx 3mm thick wall will also have an ID of approx 51mm. Might as well order some more brass sheet whilst I'm at if for the barrel caps too
  23. Tmuir

    Clock for Beginners ?

    Watchweasol has covered most of it already, but I will add avoid anniversary clocks if just starting out as despite looking simple they can be a real PITA, also avoid fusee clocks as the mainsprings are strong and without a mainspring winder you will never get the spring in or out of the barrel Stay away from cheap travel clocks or Metamec clocks as they are cheaply made and can cause you extra problems whilst leaning
  24. In Australia probably around 10 years ago they passed a law allowing companies to charge you a reasonable fee for paying with credit cards to cover their costs, depending on the company and the card you are using this is usually between 0.4% and 2.5%. I just pay with cash or from my saving account at those companies to avoid the charge or if possible not shop there, but with Cousins just accept I need to pay it as in Australia they are legally entitled to do so.
  25. Tmuir

    Tame Side Fusee Clock in need of TLC

    The clock has now been stripped down, inspected and cleaned. I think I have got lucky with the mainspring barrel. The soldering on the cap had been badly done as the parts hadn't been cleaned correctly so the solder hadn't flowed into the gap between the cap and the barrel wall. This allowed me to gently hold the the barrel in a vice and with careful application of my MAPP gas burner directly to the soft solder allowed me to melt it and wipe it off without heating up the whole barrel. I am not going to try and wet and dry off all the soft solder as I'm worried it will damage the lip of the cap so it won't refit. Once I have a new fusee wire I guess I will find out if it will go back together again. The mainspring is good and not set, although it was dry with no sign of oil or grease on it which is probably one of the reasons it didn't keep good time. A number of the pivots have been badly burnished in the past giving me tapered pivots so once I have fixed this I am likely need to fit 3 or 4 bushes to the main plates. When I went to dismantle the fusee for cleaning I found another issue, the keyway piece had not been aligned correctly and the screw holding it in place had been put in at an angle damaging the thread on the screw and fusee, so I will need to fit a new screw and either retap the thread in the great wheel or plug the existing hole and drill and tap a new thread. For those that haven't seen inside a fusee I've prepared a few photos, please note this clock does not have maintaining power for for winding, if it did it would have 2 wheels, a maintaining power wheel and a great wheel, this clock just has a great wheel. First picture shows the fusee in 3 parts. From the left we have the fusee cone with the ratchet wheel on the right and the stop piece on the left. Then we have the great wheel showing the fusee click and spring, unlike a regular clock the has the ratchet outside the plates fusee clocks have them inside the ratchet (They may also have another ratchet on the main spring barrel, but this clock does not). On the far right we have the keyway piece. This photo shows the great wheel fitted, the hole drilled in the great wheel by the click in the photo above lets you insert a small screwdriver to hold the click out of the way of the ratchet whilst you fit it on the fusee. At this point there is nothing stopping the great wheel from falling off, notice the slot cut into the arbor, this is for the keyway piece. This photo shows the keyway piece in the process of being fitted. You can see a screw hole in the great wheel at about 10:30pm, the keyway piece needs to be rotated around and then pushed home so the screw hole in this aligns with the one in the great wheel as per the second photo below. I should add that the keyway piece is slightly domed so that the great wheel fits snugly against the fuse, with no sideways movement, but not so tight that it binds on the fusee. As the thread is damaged on my screw I haven't shown it fitted in the photo, but you would normally fit it now which would stop the keyway piece from being able to slide back out.