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aac58 last won the day on January 25

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  1. I've always heard that a bit of backwards movement once the MS has unwind is a good train wheels healthy sign. Am I wrong?
  2. Seiko 70xx series are my favourite movements, there are lots of information on the web about them. The "My Retro Watches" youtube channel have a tutorial on the 7025, which is quite similar but with only date complication while the 7019 has date/day. There is a video of the disassembly and two videos on the assembly. Liani has a good tutorial on the assembly of the 7009, which is exactly the same as the 7019 but in yours there are two incablocs more than in the 7009. And finally I'm attaching the 7019 technical guide that you need for the dial side, and the 7005 technical guide you'll need for the train wheel side. Hope this helps. Seiko 7019A - Technical Guide (HQ).pdf Seiko 7005A - Technical Guide (HQ).pdf
  3. aac58


    It depends on the type of band of your watch, but as you mentioned links I'm assuming it's a bracelet. If so, and if you need it only a bit larger, there are clasp extenders that might help you.
  4. There's a big list here: https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/lift_angle In it the 2824 is listed as 53º, and 2824-2 as 50º
  5. Thanks for the clarifications, very helpful.
  6. Thank you GeorgeC, I see the point in this example. So restarting won't be an every time need, just in some occasions when that happens, right?.
  7. Why do you recommend restarting it? I'm going to buy a timegrapher, and I was thinking in a weishi 1900 instead of the 1000, just because I've read that the dot lines in the graphic are dual color, helping in setting the beat error as you will notice if you've gone too far in the adjustment. But if restarting is a recommendation then I don't see any advantage against model 1000.
  8. Thank you anilv, I'll try what you propose. Why do you think it's out of balance? I do not have a timegrapher yet, it,s my next purchase in a couple of months. I've tried the open souce application TG, but there's to much noise in my area so the readings were wrong, over 300º amplitude and 15 ms beat error, so nothing I can rely on. Would an out of balance problem stop the watch after a few hours resting on a table?
  9. I bought a cheap band loupe and I am quite happy with it, I don't know the brand and I haven't it here to check. And yes it make my forehead sweat. A well known brand for these kind of loupes is Optivisor, but I haven't tried it. My sister is a dentist too. The loupes they use are in the range of several thousands euros. I guess that looking through them must be a different kind of experience
  10. I agree about tweezers being the most important tool to invest on, and then screwdrivers. I use Dumont and Bergeon respectively, My next best buy was a visor, one of those loupes that you wear on your head. After trying different kind of table loupes this is the best option for me. Also it helps to protect your eyes if you are going to get a mainspring out of the barrel. A microscope would be great too to inspect the parts before and after cleaning, and the pivots etc. but I do not have one. And my next buy will be a timegrapher. You cannot be without one if you want to enjoy this hobby, IMHO.
  11. Thank you oldhippy, I basically comply with what you're saying. 70xx barrels complete are no longet available, so we have to open them, or I tought I had to open and clean it. Everything by hand, using gloves but no estrapada involved as I don't have one, but I've seen lots of videos doing it just by hand. I don't think I've bended the spring or damaged it, but of course it's always a possibility. I've oiled the spring itself with Moebius 8200 grase, the barrel/arbor friction area with HP 1300 oil and the barrel wall with 8217 which is a braking grease. I want to keep trying servicing those springs, but I'm going to rest for a few weeks.
  12. Yes, roughing it lost me a bit as I don't see the point to doing it and oiling at the same time It can be a technique of course, but I haven't heard of it before. The MS/barrel set was working before I put my hands on it Next time I'll put just one drop of 8217 instead of four. About the amplitude, I don't know, I do not have a timegrapher yet.
  13. Yes I am sad. So far I have only serviced two mainsprings, but they ended to be worse than before. I open the barrel of my Seiko 70xx watch, take the spring out carefully and then I use a piece of paper sinked on naphtha to clean the old oils. Then I use another piece of paper sinked on IPA to rinse the spring. And then a third piece of paper with some drops of 8200 to oil it. I clean the barrel and arbor in the ultrasonic, also using naphtha and then IPA. Dry it properly and apply 4 drops of 8217 grease, in quarters. Lastly I insert the spring into the barrel, manually, mount the arbor and close the barrel. The problem is that althoug the watches run with these MS, they run only for a few hours after wearing them all day. The last watch I've serviced only runs for 4 or 5 hours, sometimes less than that, so I've replaced the barrel complete with an old one, not serviced, and now the problem is gone, so no doubt the fault is mine. I guess the spring is slipping inside the barrel. Is 4 drops of 8217 too much? How do you oils mainsprings?
  14. In this video from VTA you can see a technique to deal with those Diafix, even how to put them back in case they comes out of its place. It doesn't look easy to me though.
  15. Ok, I've adjusted the watch a little bit, now it seems to be better. Until today it was with good time keeping, but it could stop randomly, sometimes after 48 h of running, sometimes a couple of times in 24h. I'm going to see if now that problem is gone or if I have to clean/assembly/oil it for a third time!
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