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aac58

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aac58 last won the day on January 25

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  1. Thank you anilv, I'll try what you propose. Why do you think it's out of balance? I do not have a timegrapher yet, it,s my next purchase in a couple of months. I've tried the open souce application TG, but there's to much noise in my area so the readings were wrong, over 300º amplitude and 15 ms beat error, so nothing I can rely on. Would an out of balance problem stop the watch after a few hours resting on a table?
  2. I bought a cheap band loupe and I am quite happy with it, I don't know the brand and I haven't it here to check. And yes it make my forehead sweat. A well known brand for these kind of loupes is Optivisor, but I haven't tried it. My sister is a dentist too. The loupes they use are in the range of several thousands euros. I guess that looking through them must be a different kind of experience
  3. I agree about tweezers being the most important tool to invest on, and then screwdrivers. I use Dumont and Bergeon respectively, My next best buy was a visor, one of those loupes that you wear on your head. After trying different kind of table loupes this is the best option for me. Also it helps to protect your eyes if you are going to get a mainspring out of the barrel. A microscope would be great too to inspect the parts before and after cleaning, and the pivots etc. but I do not have one. And my next buy will be a timegrapher. You cannot be without one if you want to enjoy this hobby, IMHO.
  4. Thank you oldhippy, I basically comply with what you're saying. 70xx barrels complete are no longet available, so we have to open them, or I tought I had to open and clean it. Everything by hand, using gloves but no estrapada involved as I don't have one, but I've seen lots of videos doing it just by hand. I don't think I've bended the spring or damaged it, but of course it's always a possibility. I've oiled the spring itself with Moebius 8200 grase, the barrel/arbor friction area with HP 1300 oil and the barrel wall with 8217 which is a braking grease. I want to keep trying servicing those springs, but I'm going to rest for a few weeks.
  5. Yes, roughing it lost me a bit as I don't see the point to doing it and oiling at the same time It can be a technique of course, but I haven't heard of it before. The MS/barrel set was working before I put my hands on it Next time I'll put just one drop of 8217 instead of four. About the amplitude, I don't know, I do not have a timegrapher yet.
  6. Yes I am sad. So far I have only serviced two mainsprings, but they ended to be worse than before. I open the barrel of my Seiko 70xx watch, take the spring out carefully and then I use a piece of paper sinked on naphtha to clean the old oils. Then I use another piece of paper sinked on IPA to rinse the spring. And then a third piece of paper with some drops of 8200 to oil it. I clean the barrel and arbor in the ultrasonic, also using naphtha and then IPA. Dry it properly and apply 4 drops of 8217 grease, in quarters. Lastly I insert the spring into the barrel, manually, mount the arbor and close the barrel. The problem is that althoug the watches run with these MS, they run only for a few hours after wearing them all day. The last watch I've serviced only runs for 4 or 5 hours, sometimes less than that, so I've replaced the barrel complete with an old one, not serviced, and now the problem is gone, so no doubt the fault is mine. I guess the spring is slipping inside the barrel. Is 4 drops of 8217 too much? How do you oils mainsprings?
  7. In this video from VTA you can see a technique to deal with those Diafix, even how to put them back in case they comes out of its place. It doesn't look easy to me though.
  8. Ok, I've adjusted the watch a little bit, now it seems to be better. Until today it was with good time keeping, but it could stop randomly, sometimes after 48 h of running, sometimes a couple of times in 24h. I'm going to see if now that problem is gone or if I have to clean/assembly/oil it for a third time!
  9. This step usually takes a bit of time. I think that the escape wheel has a tendency to lean against the third wheel, so before I install the bridge I try to be sure that it rests on the fourth wheel instead, then I put the bridge as as softly as I can. Then it always needs to be adjusted with the tweezers until the upper pivot goes into its jewel.
  10. Thank you, I'm not bad with the soldering iron, but yes it could be too agressive, that's why I've been looking for another solution. I hope the wire glue will do the trick, no risks with it. I think it can be removed easily if needed, and also can be hardened with other conventional glue once it has cured.
  11. So, I have just done it! At least I've done it the best I could, but there is something I haven't done. I've used watchmaker paper to rub the endstones but I haven't give them the last IPA rinse because I was not sure I could "fish" them later. I have to admit that I feel very bad a few hours before I disassemble the incablocs, everything else now looks so easy. The watch is running, but I haven't adjusted it yet, as I do not have a timegrapher and not much silence at home. Anyway I could look for a few seconds what the open source TG says about it. The watch was stopping frecuently and now, after two full cleans, it seems to run better, maybe it could stop sometimes when it is still on a table, but it could also be that I haven't wind it yet. The beat error seems to be... hummm... not as good at it should. Can this be the reason for it to stop sometimes? I'll try to adjust it when I can. BTW: 281º it's like too much for a Seiko 7005 (or 7025) Maybe the readings are nonsense at all.
  12. Not many ideas on this one I've ordered this product that looks promising, a conductive glue. I think I do not need it to be very hard, so maybe it will do the job.
  13. Good afternoon I've bought a non-working Seiko A158-509. I've seen that the problem with it is that the plate that is the negative contact for the battery is our of its place. I've checked that when it is in place the watch works (I haven't test the buttons yet) but I do not know how to "glue" this plate in it's place, as the "glue" should be conductive. Maybe I could solder it with some tin, but it might be too agressive. Do you know how could I put it in place?
  14. Great advices here, thank you very much. I think I'll keep using naphtha in the next try, rubbing the jewel against a sheet of paper as Nucejoe suggest, and then a soak of IPA, and see what happens. I hope it gets clean enought. I'm still breathing deeply before I dare to do it again
  15. I do not use lighter fluid, but naphtha which is petroleum ether 40-60º, not as pure as the one you recomend but easily available where I live. Maybe the ether you mention is also available near my home, I should try to find it, but there are so many products, A couple of days ago a watchmaker told me to use toluene, and I know I can get it too, so probably I'll give it a try when I run out of naphtha.
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