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Watch Repairs Help & Advice


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  1. Watch Case Issues, Opening, Movement/Stem Removal, Case Parts, straps and bracelets

    Discussing issues regarding the watch case including Opening, Closing, Movement Removal, Stem Removal, Pushers, Pendant Tubes etc...
    You can also discuss subjects relating to watch straps and bracelets here.

    4.7k
    posts
  2. New to watch repair ** Safe Zone For Learner Watch Repairers **

    Discussing subjects relating to learner watch repairers.
    More experienced repairers - please guide learners with patience and respect 🙏

    9.9k
    posts
  3. Regulation, Watch Performance and Timing Machine (Timegrapher) Readings/Results

    Discuss general regulation techniques, watch performance issues and your timing machine readings (traces).
    Balance Wheel Adjustment, Hairspring Adjustment, Regulating Watches, Setting Watches in Beat, Lift Angle

    3.1k
    posts
  4. Service, Repair & Adjustment Techniques (Not Timing or Regulation)

    Discussing subjects relating to servicing, making adjustments and repairs to watch parts and movements and fitting balance staffs. This section is not for timing or regulation discussion. To discuss Regulation or Timing please go here.

    6.9k
    posts
  5. Cleaning / De-Greasing Techniques - including cleaning products

    Discussing cleaning and de-greasing of watch movements including products used

    1.5k
    posts
  6. Fault Finding / Fault Diagnosis

    Discuss fault finding. Post here for advise diagnosing any watch movement issues.

    3.3k
    posts
  7. Restoration Techniques - Polishing, Refinishing, Bluing, Rust, etc..

    Dealing with all subjects relating to watch restoration techniques such as Rust Removal, Bluing, Refinishing etc...

    2.3k
    posts
  8. Lubrication Techniques, Oils, Greases, Epilame Treatments

    Discussing lubrication techniques, oils and greases to use and Epilame treatment.

    1.7k
    posts
  9. Quartz and Tuning Fork Battery Operated Watches

    Discussing quartz and tuning fork watch movements

    1.2k
    posts
  10. Shock Settings - Incablock, Diashock - Fitting/Adjusting Jewels, etc..

    Discussing shock settings such as Incabloc and Diashock etc..
    Fitting and the adjustment of Jeweled Bearings, Pallet Stones, Impulse Jewels

    974
    posts
  11. Identify This Movement or Watch

    Need help identifying a watch movement? Please use this section.

    2.7k
    posts
  12. Watch Parts, Sourcing Parts, Movements, Materials and Lubrication Products

    Discussing watch parts, the sourcing of watch parts and movements, and products required to repair and service watch movements

    4.1k
    posts
  13. Documentation, Books & Service Sheets

    Discussing watch repair documentation, books, parts lists and service sheets

    407
    posts

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  1. Omega Seamaster Cosmic 1 2

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  2. Omega Seamster 502 - Crystal Help Request

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  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This would have been seen before the fork and balance were even fitted if you carried out a test on the train wheel as a matter of course.  
    • With the amphibia there's also the gasket in the screw-in crown. If memory serves a correct seal for the back of the case is tricky to find as well, but maybe that's because mine are vintage. The newer cases are larger I think. 
    • As others have pointed out we discussed this subject in great lengths multiple times on multiple discussion groups. Then we have a subject that has too many variables and generalizations that make all the different things seem like one common removing staffs when it's not. There are variety of balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking or pushing a staff out. Rolex has one that the only way the staff is coming out is by pushing it out enough pressure is applied the river breaks with a very satisfying pop. This is because they hairspring cannot be removed until the staff is pushed out through. Then of course Rolex has a nice set of tools just for this purpose. A variety watch companies like Elgin made a balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking the staff have. For instance that principle is applied with jeweling tool you mention and here's the complete article down below that explains the procedure. Then of course there are variety watch companies Elgin And Hamilton that specifically designed balance staffs designed to be knocked out because the riveting shoulder is supposed to break. That of course would be the original staffs and probably the aftermarket do not have such features.   One of the problems with all of these tools would be the balance staff itself and of course whatever the balance wheel is made of. Personally I like the rule of if you're knocking the staff out and you gently tap with the hammer and it doesn't just pop out then you do not drive it out you do have to use a lathe. Because for variety of reasons staffs that are perhaps over riveted not quite the right size soft balance arms etc. driving a staff out that doesn't really want to come out it's not your best interest to do that.   A variety of American companies used friction fit staffs. For instance here's an example of Waltham Here's something interesting from Hamilton a specific type of 992 with a specific type of hairspring. Normally the Hamilton friction staff's do not have a groove to indicate such. Such as the Hamilton 992B or the Hamilton deck watch but they only have one staff which is friction. This particular staff has been marked because if you read carefully I suspect originally it might not have had a friction staff this was basically an upgrade. I know I've seen in the staffing assortments the blued hubs as a replacement components.    Then I'm attaching a PDF of Hamilton's thoughts on replacing balance staffs. Notice either the hub where the river can be cut away they don't have a preference it's whatever you like. Plus they mention the staff that is designed to break away. Although I have a suspicion you'll probably never see one of those as it would have to be an original staff and I suspect none of the after markets would have that feature. Hamilton technical data number 129 replacement of broken balance staffs.pdf
    • Thanks for shedding light on the exact problem — you're right, it's the centre tube, not the cannon pinion. That was the issue, and after tightening the centre tube, everything now sits correctly. The train bridge can be fully tightened and all the wheels run freely. I haven’t tested the pallet fork yet as I haven’t refitted it, but I’ll be doing that shortly to confirm if the issue is entirely resolved. @Neverenoughwatches Sorry for misusing the term earlier.
    • If the existing spring is 0.06 then it's been replaced at some time in the past and would potentially be too weak for this movement.
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