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Found 15 results

  1. Hello all! I own a Sekonda Autodate Deluxe 29 jewels, the second hand is ticking along nicely but after a period of none usage, the minute hand doesn't appear to move, I can move the hands as normal when using the crown however when it's ticking along it doesn't! I can't seem to find anyone able to repair this so was after some advice on what to do! Many thanks in advance!
  2. I have a few cheaper watches where I have missing hands and I'm looking at generic replacements from my existing spares. But, I always end up second guessing myself if the size is correct. Are there any rules of thumb as to the size of hands relative to the dial size and relative to each other - looking for something along the lines of (and I'm making up the below): Visible dial radius = r Hour hand length = 0.5 x r Minute hand length = 0.75 x r Second hand length = 0.9 x r Is there a real accepted hand/dial length ratio (not the one above I just made up above on the spot) or any rules of thumb anyone uses from experience? I know there will be exceptions where a manufacturer for one reason or the other over or under sizes the hands, but I'm looking for guidance for your average run of the mill watch.
  3. Hi there - Reassembling the dial and hands on a 1978 TV case Timex I realized the hour hand is probably not correct and want to source a proper one. However I don't know what I'm searching for because I don't know what this type of hole is called. These hands have a small collar on the underside of the hole, while I've only dealt with flat (hole only) hands before. The hour hand must have this collar because the cannon pinion on this watch sits partly lower than the dial surface. What's the name for this kind of hand? I'm pretty sure this is the wrong hour hand because 1) it does not match the minute hand which has a tail, and 2) it can touch the index at 12 & 6 because it's too long. Also, the dial is marred up in the center where someone has carelessly removed hands in the past. A similar model I found a photo of had a far shorter hour hand. And a related question about the sweep seconds hand - this watch did not come with one but the movement (Timex m104/106) should have one. The Ranfft page for the movement specifies: Hands 1.38 x 0.90 x 0.16/0.21mm (second hand without/with bushing). What is meant by "without/with bushing" in this context? Am I looking for something special, or can I get an everyday seconds hand with a 0.16 or 0.17 hole? I tried a 0.20 and it stopped the movement. Thanks for reading!
  4. Hi So I followed Mark course and I would like to use the ST3600 to build a custom watch. I've already buy a case on the photo. but I've some questions: What need to be the size of the dial when i measure inside the case there is multiple level each of them have different size like 33.61, 35.56, 36.51, 37.32 from bottom to top What need to be the size of the hands of if it matters at all. The case come without any casing ring or lung so what I'm supposed to use to secure the movement into the case ? Thanks
  5. Hi guys, First proper post on the forum. Thanks again for having me. Just took receipt of an Omega Chronostop 145.010. Cracking watch but the hour hand has a lot of crud on it. Just wondering: 1. Is it rust or something else like decayed radium? 2. Any ideas on how to correct this? Risk removing the hands and going over it with pegwood or try and track down spare hands (having trouble finding them). Cheers in Advance, C
  6. Hello, I have a lovely antique cylinder escapement pocket watch that I've serviced and got running beautifully but now I have a problem with the minute hand falling off. I think it's known as a pin hole fitting hand. On measuring the hand it shows approx. 0.40mm, and then on measuring the arbor diameter with the vernier guage, it's also 0.40mm so it's very near but won't even grip when mounted. Photos provided of the job. Does anybody have a technique I can use to get the hand to fit?
  7. will hands from caliber 1570 movement fit on the older 1560 movement?
  8. Hello, I have been asked to fix a problem with the stem of an Omega Geneve that wasn't engaging to set the hands and wind. Fair enough, I'm becoming a little more experienced now after six months of tinkering and soon identified that the winding pinion had popped out of its housing and fouling the calendar wheel teeth - presumably someone else had removed the stem before! Anyhow, fiddly but I fixed the problem, reassembled, and everything tested out okay (winds, hands set, and calendar quick set works). The problem now is that when I fit the second hand it keeps falling off, though while laid flat face up, the second hand moves around the dial normally. I've added a couple of photos, just in case you can spot anything. I must add that I ordered a set of used replacement hands, thinking that the second hand hole (if that's the term) had become worn and too large for the pinion. However, the replacement hand makes no difference. So am I now correct in looking towards pinion wear that's driving the second hand through the cannon pinion? Am I doing anything obviously wrong that you may be able to provide a tip for. I am using a proper Horotec hand fitting tool in an attempt to press the hand fully home, though afraid to exert much force in case I damage anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Adam
  9. Hi, Can anyone point me in the right direction to where I can economically buy a Valjoux ETA 7751 movement, dial, hands, day/date and moon phase dials? I am based in the U.K.
  10. I purchased some (90-150 Blue Dauphine) hands (P/N 86.9142) from Esslinger. I wanted to verify that I ordered the correct size. I am new to watch repair—but am an experienced machinist so I am ok with measuring using calipers. I measured the hour wheel on my Raketa (Movement 2614.H) at: 1.549mm (.061”) and the cannon pinion dia. at .965mm (.038”). I ordered the new hands size .90mm and 1.50mm (90-150) assuming that because the shafts are slightly larger their diameter would provide an interference fit for the smaller diameter hand holes. hour wheel shaft is 1.549 – 1.50 hand hole = .049mm interference fit. minute dia. is .965 – .90 = .065mm interference fit. Are my assumptions correct about the interference fit? Did I order the correct size? When I try to fit the hands to the hour wheel/cannon pinion I cannot get them started. I have no trouble getting the old hands to fit?? I even tried to fit the new hands upside down (because of the flange created when the mfg. stamped out the hands/hole) and still could not get them started. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks, Tracy
  11. I've just refurbished a rusty 1164 movement following marks video of the Valjoux 7750. It running like a dream. I have a new seamaster 300m dial for it but now need some genuine omega hands. Anybody know the ref numbers for silver skeleton hands to fit the 1164 please. Also while I'm on the subject does anyone know a site that references omega cases and compatible movements that fit? Thanks all !!
  12. Hi all, I'm looking for an old pocket watch minute hand with square hole fitting, square hole measurement is approx 1.65 to 1.70mm and the length i need is approx 19.0mm. Im happy to buy a pair if need be. Need ot be gold. Ive checked cousins and bought some off ebay, but they only seem to have 1.50mm fitting, and its too small to file. Can anyone help me out?
  13. Please help. I have a problem adjusting my Valjoux 72c hands to zero ( Wakmann Triple Date). Holding the B pusher I install the hands exactly at zero point. Start the chrono, run for about 2 min, reset to zero - none of the 2 sub dials and the central second hand move to zero. By pushing the pusher a few times my sub dial hands change positions a bit closer to zero, but never stop at zero. The central second hand always stops at the same spot, not zero. When I hold the reset pusher and install hands, they still can be moved around freely. Nothing is holding them at zero position. The hands collets are intact and not cracked. Is there any adjustment for the hearts that set the hands to zero? Any suggestions? I am not a professional watchmaker, but my skill level with watches is about 5 out of 10. I can get the watch disassembled and put together, so please suggest a way to deal with this. Thanks so much.
  14. I'm new at this, and it seems that, more often than not, when I put the hands back on one of the pocket watches I'm working on, the hour hand ends up down against the dial putting drag on the train. What methods do you all use for putting the hands back on a watch? How do I space the hour hand appropriately slightly off the dial?
  15. From time to time, I'm unhappy with the watch luminous on a watch I've bought. I normally like to keep things as original as possible and just leave them alone, but sometimes it doesn't do it the watch any favours. Sometimes the hands have been redone in bright green, maybe the hand luminous is falling off due to careless watch repairer, or perhaps the hands have over aged and become black and too dirty to read. So that's where I step in and do my best to getting it looking proper. First of all, this isn't a tutorial, do this at home at your own risk! I just thought it might be interesting to you guys to see some of my results. I shall post some small tips below though:- 1. Mixture is key, too much thinner makes the paint runny, and it won't go where you want it too, too much binder will make it shiny and unnatural looking. (unless it's a modern watch), this is probably the hardest part to get right. 2. Leave hands to dry over 24 hours. While it's tempting to put on an hour after, the chemicals will damage certain dials, just from the vapor. 3. Too much luminous paint can make hands curl when they dry, if hands are very thin. 4. When putting hands back on, I prefer to set minute and hour hand. 5. Sometimes just accept you can't get it perfect. Even original hands sometimes age slightly differently from the dial, perhaps depending on it's thickness or environmental factors. Can't help with pigment advice, I bought a vintage source of waterproof pigments, that were designed to be mixed with eggwhite from an independent person, and it's no longer stocked. All pigments are mixed manually. Tools: 1. Hand removers, I mainly use levers, sometimes very rarely I will use the spring type hand remover though. 2. Dial guard, used with hand remover (I just made a homemade one). 3. Plastic tweezers. hands are very delicate and thinly plated. 4. Hand press 5. Oiler stick for applying paint. (Have tried a thin brush before like they originally did in the old days, but did not get the results I wanted.) Now that's all said, I have to say my jobs are hit and miss, sometimes I'm quite happy, sometimes I think I should of done better, but it's just how it goes. Feel free to comment on what you think is bad and what you think is good. Also I've only recently decided to share my work, so my best jobs are long gone and never photographed, but I shall try and keep this going as it's something I often do myself when trying to get a watch to be more sellable.
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