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khunter last won the day on March 20

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About khunter

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    WRT Addict
  1. Oiling end-stones on capped pallets?

    Same theory yes, keep clean and dry.....
  2. Choosing a balance staff

    Actually the collar is on the balance, not the staff, and I'm not so sure about the crossover between Ronda parts and the actual Waltham part 4860/61. The 2525 is the same supposedly as the 4860, which is the straight shoulder version, which is not so common. A 2523 is listed as the same as a 4861, which is more common, but it has a pivot of .10, which is not so common. There were 3 pivot sizes available, .10, .11, and .12..... .11 is probably the most common, but again not a given... Here's the PDF of the Ronda list.... Number 2042 to 3130, Pages 21-30 NEW3.pdf
  3. the buyer probably isn't aware this uses a specific stem, and he's trying to use a normal case/stem setup. Since he can't put any pressure on the winding mechanism (winding clutch), he can't let the power down to disassemble, although if it was running he could just let it "run down"....
  4. Lathing long narrow objects

    You're probably experiencing flex in the work piece, and without a steady rest on the back side of the work you'll get that. I would try turning shorter sections at a time, it might take longer but the results should be more uniform.
  5. That looks MUCH better!! As for the stiction, I had a similar problem lately, and turned out one of the train wheels was not perfectly flat/perpendicular to the arbor. Took a little work on the truing caliper and it works great now. I'd also check the barrel arbor for free spin (without the mainspring of course). Wonderful job on the jeweling!
  6. Often times a watch needs to "run in" for a day or two before doing any kind of regulating. This gives the oil time to spread and settle and the train to settle back into place. Did you check this the second time on a full wind? It could be a small amount of contamination has settled into one or more of the train/escapement pivot areas. The motion work could also be exerting some resistance, ie the cannon pinion, hour wheel, etc.....I'd check everything under high magnification to start with, then I'd start by removing potential drag items, hands, hour wheel, etc and work backwards from there...I don't believe the oiling of only one pallet stone is the cause, as the oil will still be distributed to the teeth of the escape wheel, and thus the second stone, it just won't be as much oil as if both had been treated.
  7. Vintage pivot tool

    Without all the accessories, I'm not sure if you will be able to use it as intended at all. You also mentioned replacing a balance pivot with it, unless the balance is for a clock or something on the larger side, you'd be better off replacing the staff. This tool is meant more for larger pivots, such as for the train wheels and the like, a balance pivot is simply too small.
  8. One other thing i have found is that the old crystals are not perfectly round, so I measure in several different places and get the average. Sometimes just changing the orientation in the bezel will be the trick to getting it to fit. All that being said, I've had much better luck with GS acrylic crystals, especially in hunting cases, because the glass is so thin to begin with. Good luck!
  9. Vintage pivot tool

    Looking at the photos it looks like it's missing a few pieces. There should be several sizes of hollow end arbors that hold the work while you insert the drill. There should also be a drill holder. Have a look at this one:
  10. Sounds like a broken mainspring, but it could be a number of things. Disassembly is required to diagnose it, and if you've never done it before it would probably be best to take it to a qualified repair person.
  11. Should be good to go. I've found that slowly pressing in the jewel in small increments, then checking the endshake works best as opposed to trying to get it right the first try. Check the hole/pivot size under high mag to make sure it's not too sloppy but it sounds like you're on the right track...
  12. I've found that the sizes listed on the old glass crystals is more of a guide than anything. I've measured several that we all marked the same, but still varied in diameter by a tenth or two from what was stamped. You CAN resize a glass crystal, but it is painstaking and not always successful. I made a wooden bobbin on my lathe, about 1" in diameter, then slightly beveled one face, and coated it with a thin layer of silicone rubber sealant. Mounted on a 1/4" dowel, I chuck it in my lathe and use the tailstock with a loose fitting wooden "pusher" to hold the crystal to the bobbin. Run the lathe slowly and use hand pressure on the tailstock while centering the crystal on the bobbin, I use the wooden handle of a burnisher to apply pressure to the edge of the crystal until it runs true. Then I tighten the tailstock in place. Using various grits of carbide emery cloth, I gently reduce the diameter a little at a time. You MUST polish the sanded edge using the finest grit cloth you can find, at least 2000, or when you try to install the crystal it WILL chip! Heat the bezel up! This will slightly expand the ring and allow the crystal to go in, and when it cools it will shrink back down and hold the crystal tightly.
  13. Vintage pivot tool

    Slightly different lathe, turret style, but the principle is the same.
  14. A good digital caliper would be fine to measure the outside dimension, use the wheel arbor to confirm the hole size. A jewel press would be the best way to press out and install a new jewel, not a difficult job at all.
  15. That is the wrong jewel for that wheel, a little side shake is normal but that jewel looks almost twice as big as it should be. I recently replaced a fourth wheel lower jewel, the pivot measured 0.31mm, the proper jewel was 0.32mm. 1/100 of a mm is roughly 0.0004 inches. The pivot should be measured and a new correct jewel fitted. Looks like someone tried to "just get it running" with whatever was handy.