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  1. Hi, Just wanted to show a before and after of a recent project. I completed Mark’s online courses a few months ago and have done a few small projects. Mainly servicing and repair of movements. I am an Omega collector and wanted to acquire the Seamaster Racing 1974 due to the Cal. 564 movement. I bought this on eBay for $500 and yes it was as rough as it looks. Rust, corrosion and badly maintained movement. I managed to find a NOS replacement crystal and bezel. I serviced and repaired the movement back to Chronometer specs. Unfortunately, I can not ta
  2. Thanks everyone for the guidance. I figured out the issue after watching some of Mark’s tutorials on the Unitas 6489. He noticed that after servicing a new movement a few times he had the same issue with the balance. It appears that it was not the balance at all but a few marks where it attaches to the main plate. Basically screwdriver twists in the mainplate that lifted the balance slightly. so when screwed down it was too tight and pushing against the cap jewels and springs. This is why it was erratic. Must have put some further down pressure when I turned the regulator arms.
  3. Since the erratic nature did not show before I started to regulate, I figure it must have something to do with the balance wheel. Just took it out to inspect under microscope but could not see any damage to pins, spring or impulse pin. I have a spare movement (not serviced) with a complete balance. Swapped it out and put back on timegrapher. All looks ok. -18s/d, 251 amp and 0.5ms beat error. Nice consistent reading. Again, I can not see any difference or faults when comparing both of them under a microscope.
  4. I am new to the hobby and only on my 4th service of a watch. The first 3 have gone without any issues. The latest one being a FHF ST96-4 movement. I put it on the timegrapher (Weishi 1900) to check it after servicing and to regulate. All looked good at first then i adjusted the rate and beat error as it was loosing a little. During this the balance wheel stopped (i did not touch it), so i move the levers back and it started again with a very poor amplitude. Small adjustment and all started working again. When it runs now there is no consistency in the rate or amplitude. c
  5. Hi, just finished servicing a Vintage Oris with a Cal 291 movement. Removed crystal to clean case and replace. When removed it does not look like anything I have seen before. it has no real edges and is flexible. Can prod it with your finger and is is squashy. i have attached some pictures. How or even is it possible to replace this.... thanks
  6. Hi, Probably a rookie error. But when i put the balance wheel assembly back it appears i used the one of the donor watch that had not been cleaned. I have now replaced with the clean one on the results are better but not prefect. The ST 3620 i used in the lessons i got regulated to -2s/d and 0,0ms beat error with an amplitude of 328. Before (new) it was running +12s/d 298a and 1.7ms be. This movement is running -14s/d, 200 amplitude and 2.4ms be. It been running consistent on the timegrapher for about 3 hrs. I could not test both before as one was not
  7. Hi, Looking for some advice. I signed up to Marks courses and completed level2. I just bought some further movements to practice on. I bought 2 Venus 180 movements, one working but stops and starts and the other not working. Stripped the non working one today, cleaned and inspected. The pin on the bottom of the pallets was broken so swapped it from the second movement. The only issues I have so far is that I struggle to install the pallet forks and bridge as well as balance. Clumsy I guess. once installed it was reluctant to run a
  8. Hi, didnt require any parts. The lever was not bent it had hopped over the front rim (a raised edge to keep it inside movement perimeter). Once i removed it and reseated it was fine. small tweek with pliers and all good. Bought a full box of assorted o-rings a few days ago, so when they come in i will fit to pusher and replace. the one job i started out doing (replacing glass) didn't happen as i ordered the wrong size..... thanks for advice.
  9. Ok. The plot thickens.... Went to change the crystal out today and while doing so i decided to take a look at the push button and contacts. It appears that the previous owner got a bit heavy handed with the button and has bent the lever behind that touches the contact. attached photos. So bypassed this and touched the contact directly. No issues with the circuit board as all works as it should. Question i have is regarding the push button. as you can see from the pictures when i removed it from the case it was covered in a black sticky ta
  10. Ok. I am about to change the crystal so will check it out then.
  11. OK if you short across these the second hand stops. you can wait for the actual time to catch up and release. So you can stop the seconds. but afterwards the button still does not work.
  12. Hi, Just bought this today and the watch is working correctly (time, date). I can set the hour and date using the crown. Issue is with the small flush button above the crown used for setting the seconds and minute. The button seems to depress but nothing happens. As i say the watch is actually working and the time is correct. But having to remove the battery to set the seconds and minutes is not ideal. thanks
  13. Hi, Just acquired this for my collection. What is the best way to repair damage under 30 minute sub-dial area. I like the patina on the rest of the dial but wondered if this was repairable. I have also found someone that can make a new dial with similar markings and indicators. I am also looking at re-plating the watch. There is no major damage or scratches, just wear on pushers, crown and shoulders. Thoughts....
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