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systeman

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systeman last won the day on May 28

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About systeman

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  1. Engravers (Elephant Black) wax is gives a more robust finish, but when used in shallow engravings it's more dark blue than black. I prefer Merkal, letting it dry for a few days before buffing off the excess. I've also hand painted engravings with a thinned black enamel, then used very fine grade lapping paper to remove excess.
  2. The problem with the black ring is it deteriorates over the years and usually crumbles away. I is only there as a feature piece. However, when the bezel is removed one can see the channel in the bezel that the black ring sits in. The rings are obsolete but easy to make. I took the measurements of the channel and scribed the inner/outer onto (off eBay etc.) a piece of model makers' black polypropylene sheet and cut it out by hand. It can be a snug fit in the channel and may need to be reduced in thickness. Actually there should be a very thin clear plastic shim that sits between the base of the bezel and case, this is only to reduce any friction and take up any slack between the two. Good luck, it's worth doing and they do look great when finished.
  3. All sorted, I managed to find a new old stock one.
  4. Hi all, I've run out of ideas about where I can source a couple of links for a Seiko 7T32-7G00 The link reference is 4847JZ and if I remember rightly is also the same band reference for Seiko 7N42-7B60 and 7T62-0DB0. I thing I've more of a chance finding a gold nugget. Has anyone got one of these bands or a couple links? Many thanks in advance.
  5. Kindest regards. Thanks for the quick reply. It's not the wire bezel retaining spring but the flat spring with one anchor point and three click points. Like this one.
  6. I'm stuck on a repair to a Tissot E662/762M Bezel. I need new ratchet spring. Does anyone know the part number and a supplier, or an alternative that fits. Its inside diameter is 32mm, outside diameter 35mm, thickness 0.20mm It has one anchor point and three clicks. Many thanks.
  7. I had checked the coils before servicing and after reassembly. What I did find was evidence of polish compound in and around the crown and pusher tubes and between the case back and case. I think the previous owner must have polished the case using dremel or similar machine. This was probably the cause of messing up the rotors and stators, regardless of the magnetic shield of the movement. Polishing as the cause was guesswork, but using the demagnetiser on the stators solved the problem. It was indeed quite weird to see the hands turn in different directions, then only to be corrected after faultfinding. Then others that were correct to then go backwards. I put that down to not putting the stators back in different positions. The magnetic field the stators produced must have had an effect on the rotors. I'm guessing here, but as they were magnetised the polarity had an effect on which direction the rotors would turn. That's why I put them all on the demagnetiser a few times the same way up, and lifted them away all in the same direction. I must say though, the stators did not demagnetise 100% ( probably a rubbish demagnetiser), but must have had an effect on aligning the polarity.
  8. Well, not really magic hands, just behaving rather strangely. I serviced an ETA 251.262 out of a nice Tissot Martini Racing I'd acquired. The movement was very stiff and did not work. The small second hand was pulsating back and forth though. It was very interesting though after the service and putting in the new battery. The sub dial second hand went backwards, as did the chronograph second hand. The sub dial split second hand worked correctly. I stripped it down again, reassembled it and this time the big minute recording hand and large chrono second hand went backwards, but the sub dial second hand worked ok. I stripped it down again and tested the stators up against a compass. Each one was magnetised but the polarity varied. I guessed it could only be that was causing the problem. I demagnetised each stator, drawing each one the same way up and away from the demagnetiser. Now all the hands go clockwise, except the split second which isn't working at all now. Oh what fun. By the way, never use a demagnetiser on a quartz watch.
  9. Which lift angle should one adopt for the ETA 2824 movement? ETA Technical Communication for the first 2824 movements state the LA to be 53 degrees. ETA 1981 Technical Communication for the 2824-1 movement states the LA to be 53 degrees. ETA Technical Communication for 2824-2 movements state the LA to be 50 degrees. But I see on the web and various 'how to' instruction videos, a lift angle of 53 degrees is keyed into timgraphers. Therefore, have most people been using the wrong lift angle setting of 53 degrees with their timegraphers, when it should be 50 degrees for ETA 2824-2 movements? I just serviced an original 2824 and assumed the LA to be that referenced in ETA Technical Communication for 2824-2. One can see this in my other post here: So I'll now re-time the movement with a list angle of 53 degrees, which it should be for the older ETA 2824 version. Come to think about it, I did do that to start with and the amplitude was far better. Hmmm! very interesting.
  10. I acquired this recently together with numerous other old watchmaker tools. Does anyone know the manufacturer and what it does? I think it's a roller puller but not sure. The end of the plunger stake has a small indent, the height is also adjustable.
  11. I acquired an old ETA 2824 movement that was out of a Technos watch. While taking it apart for a thorough service I learned quite a bit about the movement. The keyless works, date change parts, sliding and winding pinions were different to the current ETA 2814-2. The stem was of the helicoidal type - but was missing. I was very lucky to source some. I also changed to rotor for a new Swiss one. I had great fun in stripping it down and, as this was my first ETA 2824 service, was amazed at the quality of the components. When I opened the barrel, the spring was almost mint condition, in fact, I think the movement had hardly been used. Now, after its service and bringing it back to life, I think it's a fantastic movement. Here are a couple photos and a video of the timegrapher readings. I think I could even improve the -/+ sec/day setting. Timegrapher readings for dial side up and crown down. There's not much fluctuation in other positions.
  12. Thanks for all the input guys. The adjuster thread is good. The nut though was slightly damaged so needs to be re-tapped because it's too tight. Knowing the type of thread would be good prior to working out the pitch. Does anyone know if Boley used the metric system? I've feeling I'll need to arm myself with several gauges of different types.
  13. I've just purchased my first lathe. It's a Boley with a D-bed and loads of accessories. It's one of the accessories I have a question about. The previous owner had completely unwound the lower slide from its internal anchor nut. It's the nut for the adjuster for the lower bed. It was easy enough to take it apart and reassemble it, but the thread in the nut needs to be re-tapped because the adjuster spindle is too tight. Does anyone know the tap size for the thread? It's a left hand wound thread and 4mm diameter. Thanks everyone.
  14. I managed to source one:- 51.010.51 specified for the following ETA 2802 2804 2806 2824 2826 2828 2830 2834 It'll be interesting to see if it fits.
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