Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
I never expect anything and haven't yet done a single Japanese watch (an Orient model EV0S004B with a calibre 46E40 is in the pipe), but I must say, PUSH being written on the movement seems very convenient.
For further clarification, Yes, it is exactly where it says “Push”, but also you have to pull out the winding stem to the first position, before there is anything to actually “Push” on. If you look into the space where you have to push, you will see the setting lever move into the correct place to be pushed, when the stem is pulled out to the first position.
I just want to report that oldswisswatches.com have refunded me for the parts that I was not satisfied with. Mr. Sudarson has been very kind and accommodating in this matter.
Again, I do not recommend against oldswisswatches.com, but given my dissatisfying experience I strongly advise that you ask for pictures and negotiate the price accordingly before placing you order.
I've spent a lot of time and a ton of money trying to get an optimal magnification solution. I wear glasses and the the only really well working clip-on I've found is Bergeon's ARY clip-ons. You can see them here.
Nevertheless, I do not use this clip-on or any other lupes as I want to take advantage of the fact that I have two eyes and hence have stereo vision which helps immensely to determine distance when working with tweezers, etc. Instead I use magnification glasses (seen in this post) and a stereo microscope for all my work. It would seem to me that 99 % of all watch repairers and watchmakers prefer loups, but I just don't see the advantage of monovision. Perhaps it is just tradition?