Jump to content

Best Practice - Regulating Watch Without a Timegrapher


Recommended Posts

I have a pinpallet watch which I have serviced (formerly a non-runner) which is running very slow (5-10 mins per day), I have put it on my timegrapher (Weishi 1000) and it cannot get a reading on the watch. I get snow for about 1-2 seconds then the timegrapher starts again, but confirms (----) for the Rate in those few moments. Anyway, back to the subject matter, does anyone have a best practice, or can point me in the right direction, for manually adjusting the time regulation without a timegrapher. I am sure this is not a new topic, but I did a search but couldn't find anything, apologies if this has already been covered.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Waggy said:

I have a pinpallet watch which I have serviced (formerly a non-runner) which is running very slow (5-10 mins per day), I have put it on my timegrapher (Weishi 1000) and it cannot get a reading on the watch. I get snow for about 1-2 seconds then the timegrapher starts again, but confirms (----) for the Rate in those few moments. Anyway, back to the subject matter, does anyone have a best practice, or can point me in the right direction, for manually adjusting the time regulation without a timegrapher. I am sure this is not a new topic, but I did a search but couldn't find anything, apologies if this has already been covered.

This is reminding me a lot of another discussion that occurred today here's a link to it

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/27057-what-you-on-with-today

As you can see the title of the talk appropriately does not fit the subject at all which is probably why you missed it today.

As I don't always know if pin levers function identical in all situations so conceivably can have a watch that just may not show up On the timing machine. So basically depending upon a variety of factors of unknown things may be a watch just can't be timed on the timing machine.

Then I assume the regulator pins of the proper spacing as if they're too far apart that would be a reason for running slow. Then this morning's discussion was it was at the maximum regulation do you have room to regulate it?

So if you have room to regulate to move the regulator you can do it the old-fashioned way. Although I modify that I like to use a digital timepiece as a reference. The reason I use digital is there's no hands so I don't have to contend with it may be a problem of where my digital timepiece hands are. If you ever looked at some quartz watches you'll notice that sometimes I'll be right on the second on one side of dial around them aside to be somewhere else. So with a digital timepiece that preferably has seconds I also find a small camera to photograph the watch and the digital timepiece that gives you time to study your picture and you don't have to pressure to try to look both at the same time. Then wait to see what's going on how slow are you and then you just gently start bumping the regulator and see what happens

then yes this is how they used to do it they would typically sceptered timepiece to a master clock. If they were doing chronometer watch trials you would typically have two people someday be looking at the master clock someday be looking at the watch and if you're really intense you can actually see is the second hand on a watch job every time the escapement impulses basically you get down to a fraction of a second for a chronometer. In your case I would just worry about getting it within a minute of the day and not worry about it

so old-fashioned way visually comparing to another timepiece that preferably keeps better time then whatever your timing

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar. 
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...