I measured my Omega Caliber 1120 through an timegrapher app. (Dial Up, full wind)
I know the app is not very accurate.
I checked about +100s/d difference and sharply tilted graph .
The odd thing is that the bottom part of the graph is not printed every 100+- seconds.(red-colored circle)
Is this a feature of the timegrapher, or does it indicate abnormal state of movement component?
Hi everyone, I have some problems with a manual winding watch. It needs some work but I would try to do it myself. The watch appears fully wound but it doesn't work. Which is the problem? Thank you in advance
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
Pardon my photography skills... You should be able to see various shots of the hairspring, shots of the collet from two angles, and a shot of the cock with the fork where it attaches. Somewhere on/under/near my desk is a tiny mote of shellac that popped off and was formerly holding the spring in the collet.
Hi watch and clockmakers,
May I ask for your thoughts about the glue shall be used to fix the crown to the stem? I did my initial research and many mentions loctite, but i found none of the ppl who actually said which loctite. When it was mentioned on this forum loctite 638 it was also stated that probably not ideal. Even in Mark's video loctite was just mentioned as loctite. Is it obvious as which one? As far as I understand it has to be strong enough so the crown would not come off and weak enough to be able to remove the crown? I guess the latter only matters with special crowns not the ones you can buy for 10p, or when you cannot easily replace the stem/crown with vintage watches as they are not available for purchase? Would this one do? : loctite I guess many would use something else than loctite.
Take care and my bestregards,