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AndyHull

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Everything posted by AndyHull

  1. I suspect it is fully wound, and simply doesn't run. Probably in need of a clean.
  2. Interesting. If the CAD file is in the files on thingiverse, then you could presumably adjust the height of the barrel so it may be possible to fix the issue. I may take a look at this when I get some spare time. If you have the link, that might save me a git of google time.
  3. I'm wearing one of the Timexes today. It looks reasonable on the time-grapher, but gained about three minutes left face up on the desk over 24hrs, so I decided to see if it was better behaved on my wrist before diving in and fiddling. The strap is probably from roughly the correct period, but I'll most likely substitute a leather one. These springy old bits of metal tend to wear out the lugs, and since this old fella is pre 1962, probably mid to late 1950s I feel it needs something gentler to keep it company. I also need to check the junk pile to see if I have a suitable second hand for it. The Lorus went on the other wrist shortly after I took this pic, so that I don't scratch either of them by bashing their heads together.
  4. 24hrs later, and they are all running reasonably well. The white dialed Timex and the Timex with the missing second hand are a little eager, but the other two are correct to within a minute. I'm sure I have a suitable second hand somewhere, so I'll look at adding that, and do a final tweak and I think we can call this batch of recruits a success.
  5. I suspect it originally had a stem tube, but I cannot be certain. Assuming the movement is an AS 1950 then according to Ranff the stem is a W3086 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_1950 This (also affording to Ranff) also fits the rest of these members of the AS 1XXX family There is at least one seller on ebay at the time of writing this, but hunt around for those other movements and you may find more. The crown I suggest would be anything that fits the stem and matches the colour and style of the watch, since we don't know what the original looked like.
  6. My guess it that the failure point was the winder shaft. I suspect that realistically, you would have to make that from steel as abs plastic is not robust enough. Its a neat idea though, but probably requires a little more engineering to get it right. Where did you get the design?
  7. That pile of randomness looks strangely familiar, I have something similar growing daily in a box in the bottom of my tool cupboard. I never water or feed it, but still it grows.
  8. What range of size of movement would it allow?
  9. Check the price. If it is left handed, it will be at least three times the cost of a right handed one.
  10. I grabbed the crystal with the claws, then held the lift tool between my knees and gave the movement plate a playful tap with a plastic rod and the useless tool I mentioned above. Not the most subtle method, but very reliable for sending the watch in to orbit, and you do need to do that at least once a week, or you 'aint trying hard enough. Second try worked like a charm, and the movement, crystal and movement plate parted with the case quite nicely. Something makes me suspect there may be a better way of doing this.
  11. Quick tool tip for cutting material (cloth, leather, thin plastic sheet, cardstock etc). Get a quilters rotary cutter (available from the usual suspects) and a steel ruler. You get perfect straight cuts, with clean edges. It works with larger sizes, multiple layers, and materials that wont go in a guillotine. The only thing I would advise. Get in the habit of using the guard on it, or you may end up picking your fingers up off the floor, or wondering where all the pretty red ink is coming from.
  12. Now this lot on the other hand.. wall to wall frankenism. I wouldn't sake my lunch money on it being genuine, but your example is at least a much more convincing dial than any of these. I would say I'm 80% convinced it is real.
  13. The dial frankly looks too good for a franken. If it is, find out which backstreet shop in Delhi did it, I may need to pay them a visit.
  14. I was going to nominate one of these... ... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches. Sacrilege to my eyes. Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.
  15. I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool. I wouldn't say it is *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals. Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.
  16. Re-clickified and straight on to my wrist. 1981 Timex Marlin - pocket money price (under the magic £4.04) as it was sold as not working. Initial time grapher results suggest it is going well, but I'll keep it on at least for today and see. It is not 100% pristine as there a couple of small chips on the lugs, and wear on the crown, but the dial and hands are clean as a whistle.
  17. More Timex madness today. This 1981 Timex Marlin needed a winder click spring. Thanks @JerseyMo for those - I've got a candidate for the second one, so I may need more soon. Fitting it was reasonably painless, although I did manage to take a small divot out of the crystal while grabbing it with the crystal lift. It polished out, but when I did it I also launched the whole kit and kiboodle across the room. Fortunately nobody will ever know. My technique for removing these front loaders could do with a little refinement I think. Pressing the crystal back in at the end however I seem to have got down to a fine art. So much so that when it popped in with just the faintest click, I felt certain I must have split the thing, but no, it had merely popped back in first time without a fuss. Maybe I'm getting better at this malarky after all. A little cleaning and light lubrication and off it went.
  18. Following on from Timex Tuesday.. two Timex Thursday. I cast my eye over these two scruffy individuals, and got one running. The other looks like it has a slight touch of hairspring salad, so I'll give that a more thorough going over when I get a chance. I'm not sure how to date the one that is running as I don't see any dial code, so presumably they pre-date the era when Timex put those on the dial. My guess is late 1950s. As you can see, a little TLC and it looks a whole lot more presentable. Shame about that small crack in the crystal, but hey, nobody is perfect.
  19. Likewise, although I've only been bewhiskered for about the last ten tears. Prior to that, I tried pretty much every shaving method known to mankind, and I must admit, none were particularly satisfactory. Latterly I used an electric razor. Not perfect, but far less faffing around, and a lower capacity for major blood loss. A good barber's wet shave probably gives the best actual shaving experience, assuming you avoid the almost legendary "blind Jack", who used to "operate" when I was a youth, from an establishment which shall remain nameless, in the suburbs of Glasgow. While he wasn't actually blind, If you sat with your head tilted to one side, you left with a slope in your fringe. It was always a good idea to count your ears afterwards, just in case.
  20. So far this thread seems to have concentrated on what to clean the jewels with, but I think you also need to be aware of what your enemy looks like. I've linked to the bit that shows some good examples of oil turned to snot, but it is worth watching the whole thing if you have the time. Also look through some of Mark's videos, he shows examples of manufacturing debris in one of his Seagull movement videos (which I can't track down at the moment). This video gives a very concise view of what you may be missing. The issue is that often what I think is clean, isn't. This is where good magnification and good light comes in to play. Half a dozen trips through the ultrasonic, and any number of magic secret sauce cleaning fluids, may simply not be getting at the dirt in the first place. Old oil is strange stuff. Sometimes it goes colloidal and viscous, sometimes it goes dry and powdery, sometimes it turns to tar, sometimes it is more like varnish or plastic, and in the latter form, it seem that only mechanical intervention will actually ensure that you get the dratted stuff removed as it appears to become impervious to both lighter fluid and detergent. The "green cheese" and other dirt that gets in to places like the keyless works, and from there pretty much everywhere else, and the flakes of corrosion and machining swarf, and bits of ablated plating, are also sometimes almost completely impervious to cleaning fluids, as are human hairs and clothing fibers. When all else fails, you cant beat old school careful inspection and mechanically cleaning by hand.
  21. Having worked my way through quite a lot of the last batch of oddities standing at the door of the "404 Club" clamoring to get in, I decided I hadn't suffered enough, so I popped a bid on this. Advertised as a "Vintage Men’s TIMEX automatic day/ date, watch not working", and given its insanely scruffy appearance, and that dial, (and the resultant rock bottom price of course) how could I resist. It looks like a real gem in the rough. I sense a lot of cleaning, oiling and polishing is likely to be required. I will of course keep you all posted as to its progress.
  22. Today I have a Ruhla/UMF "Falux" branded pin lever based on a late variant of their Caliber 24 design and produced in the GRD around 1978. The movement looked familiar, and indeed is very similar to a Saxon branded Ruhla I restored at back in november. I found a couple of nearly identical versions of this dial on line, with Saxon and other logos. It runs reasonably well, but the balance objects if I try to get the beat error below about 3ms, so there is probably a little wear or eccentricity issue there. I didn't delve any deeper as I suspect it might not be possible to improve on the results owing to the somewhat rudimentary nature of the balance. It whirs away at a somewhat pedestrian 18000 bph with an almost cartoonish and very audible tick-tock, but has kept pretty reliable time over the last day or so. Edit: Given the spec of the movement, I think this particular one is well within spec. Escapement: Pin Pallet Escapement with a Safety Blade and Roller Balance Spring: Temperature Compensating Accuracy: +240 sec/ – 120 sec/day Number of Beats per Hour: 18,000 Diameter of movement: 24mm Height of movement: 6mm -2 to +4 mins per day. That is a pretty big target to hit.
  23. I have a couple of Newmark branded watches. They seemed to do quite a range over the years. From what little I can gather of their history, they were more of a watch importer and seller latterly, but they did put together quite a number of interesting watches. Mainly their offerings were at the affordable end of the spectrum, which in a way makes them more interesting from a historical point of view. Not everybody could afford a Rolex, but brands like Newmark, Timex, Saxon and others were more indicative of the zeitgeist. These brands and styling are very much of their time, and that, to my mind is a major part of their appeal.
  24. I've had a couple of crystals leave behind a thin plastic ring like that. I must admit I simply attacked it (carefully) with a scalpel and removed a small wedge from it, then dragged the rest out (also carefully) with tweezers. As to rhodium, I think about the only thing I might not soak that in would be liquid mercury. It is almost completely inert, and very corrosion resistant. However, if it turns out to be something else, aluminized plastic for example, then it may dissolve in acetone, so tread carefully.
  25. I think this looks pretty close. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&UMF_24_42
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