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m1ks

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Everything posted by m1ks

  1. Hey! It does come with basic tweezers though. It looks great. I just don't need one that badly.
  2. Sorry to hear that OH. It's been a couple of years since I lost my last cat and like you. She adopted me as a kitten, I still miss her terribly and can't yet get another because of that. My sympathies.
  3. The weishi timegraphers are great but not infallible. Don't assume that the readings are definitely correct until you've established all other factors with the running of the watch are. Disregarding the 9.9ms reading currently. (This essentially is as relevant as it reading out of limits). There's a notable rise and drop in b.e. (where you see the lines separate). Very first thing I'd suggest is remove the balance and check that the roller jewel is centred and secure, I've seen similar results with a loose roller jewel. Still tight enough to fit but with a bit of side to side play. If that is shellac ed securely. Check the lock and drop of the pallet fork jewels and their security of fit, Check the swing between guard pins is even. (I've seen so many old pocket watches with bent guard pins it's almost become an expected sight). Check that the roller jewel is centering after a gentle rotation in both directions, check the hairspring is securely pinned and it's flat and reasonably concentric. Double check this with the balance installed viewed dial up. Dial down and pendant up etc. If your phone has a slow motion video facility. (Most do these days). Take a short clip of the balance and visually verify that it is oscillating roughly at the amplitude shown. Again don't assume it is 216 degrees, I've seen watches barely pushing 160 where the timegrapher reports a much higher amplitude. I know a chunk of this is repeated from the above good pointers but assuming you've checked all that and jewels are secured, endshake and side shake are OK, motion is acceptable and hs are OK then this should see a consistent line gap and a b.e. of 3.0 ish ms at the most. Also be sure to check the timegrapher reading with the watch on other positions especially the love you checked the roller jewel visually in, DD? I'd assume. See if there's a noticeable difference.
  4. The main thing is that you're getting there and the parts can be replaced. While I can't speak for the construction of Rolex plates and shock settings, all others I've worked on have the shock housings pressed in from the top side. So dial side towards the pivot and bridge side towards the pivot. They're typically slightly shouldered. If this one isn't then it may press in from the pivot side but I'd personally go from dial side. Hope the replacement parts work out for you. I'm a little curious as to why this one came loose though. A thought, but it is edging into 'bodge' territory. If the fit is tight enough a little loctite thread locking compound on the outer edges of the housing should secure it to save having to replace it? Hopefully of course the new replacement should press in and be secure.
  5. I cast iron guarantee you it is not serious and you will ruin any hairspring you try this on. As per my comment above, a few people over the last year or so have pointed me to this video and every one thought it was serious. Title aside, it doesn't make it clear enough that this is 'supposed' to be a joke or prank and those who don't know the delicate nature of hairsprings are potentially likely to try it.
  6. I can't believe that garbage is still on YouTube. What makes it worse is that there's no effort made to declare it as some kind of 'joke'. It ranks alongside the idiots who told people that microwaving your phone charges the battery. Yes. Common sense tells you it simply wouldn't work but there are many who would take it at face value. Ones things for certain. Try this and you'll never have to worry about that particular hairspring again.
  7. Think you mean this. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/honeycombe-soldering-board-135-x-95-x-12mm-ts111 You need to place it on a heat resistant surface if you're using a torch, it helps retain heat on the piece you're working on. Be very careful as they're fragile and snap easily. (Very similar to those old ceramic elements that gas fires used back in the 70's
  8. Yup, you've got a squiffy pivot there. If you pull the wheel out and roll the pivot on some sheet glass or a flat staking block you'll be able to see it. Theoretically you should be able to even it if you carefully roll it and apply pressure from the top with something like a smoothing file, or any hardened flat smooth steel. Mark did a video on re pivotting where at the start he shows the technique mentioned. The key is to go carefully as pivots can and will break easily.
  9. Carefully. Apologies, couldn't resist. There's no magic formula for trying to bend metals that have bent already, the softer they are the better the chance and heat can sometimes help but not in this case, far too much risk of further damage if you tried to apply heat. Some good strong tweezers and very carefully a little at a time, some means of clamping the pallet fork would be a good idea like a pallet warmer or staking block. Hopefully that will resolve the amplitude issue if you can successfully straighten.
  10. blockquote widget That guard pin appears to be quite bent, (upward as per this pic) normally these would be straight and in between the horns when viewed from above. That in itself could cause a binding and dragging on the impulse jewel in one of the positions according to endshake and movement of the pallet fork and balance.
  11. Theoretically dragging or binding of the pivots I the hole or on the endstones, however, you must establish also that power is being delivered uniformly through the train to the escapement, checking the cleanliness of the gears and pinions and endshake etc, once you've established the train is running freely and the pallet is locking and unlocking and dropping correctly then the only thing left is the balance.
  12. Very common in older Wristwatch movements with date complications. It just requires the tedious practise of cranking forwards. A lot of people who wear watches in rotation tend to skip date setting on such watches. Quick set requires a separate cam which engages the date wheel teeth on the first pull out point to facilitate the rapid advance so it'll be very evident when you strip the dial side as it'll be connected to the keyless works where the date advance is usually over by the 9/10 on the dial position driven by the hour wheel.
  13. The Rolex is definitely fake. The Omega I couldn't swear to it but I'd bet you it was. As per AndyHull, no one, literally no one treats a luxury watch like those, i.e. thrown in a drawer rattling around getting scratched. EVERYONE the seller included has heard of (at least the first one) Rolex and Omega and if they honestly thought they were genuine would have had them checked. I don't even know if they make a two Tone yachtmaster but if so. That's several thousand in that one alone if it were genuine. Which it most assuredly isn't. (That sticker for one thing alone) There'll always be someone willing to chance bidding to stumble across that mythical genuine old watch of uncle Fred's that's worth a fortune, but every instance I've ever heard of has been second third fourth or fifth hand and almost certainly allegorical. The fact they won't take more pics tells you all you need to know anyway. That pocket watch might be interesting though. But I certainly wouldn't be bidding much over £20 per piece maximum on that.
  14. I don't believe that model has a quick set calendar function.
  15. Or apparently blokes called Chris in Aus! Interesting list but sadly I doubt I'll ever be in a position again to afford one, part of me wishes I had done back in 89 when I had the opportunity. I think I'd certainly go the AD route if I were though.
  16. They are both most certainly 'shot'. Or in many Seiko collectors terms, oozing 'patina' I would highly recommend, unless the watch itself is a franken of any degree that you do not try to refinish or clean the dial. Get an aftermarket by all means but keep the original wrapped and safe for such a time that you might want to sell it, that way you can sell the watch with an am dial but supply the original.
  17. Don't quote me on this as I've never worked on a 3135 but I can't imagine they'd use a different method to secure them than the pressed interference fit that is typical. Maybe if Mark is around he could weigh in his experience and expertise as he has worked on these? If it's not fitting snugly enough that you're confident it will stay in place during normal use and wear then it definitely needs addressing by, presumably, replacement. If not it will slip and of course affect the operation of the balance.
  18. Wow! The whole thing, that's highly unusual. Even very cheap movements usually have them firmly fitted. I certainly wouldn't say it was entirely user error, there may be some part of the way you were holding/pressing etc that had something to do with it but typically the housings are pressed in and a firm friction fit so theoretically you shouldn't have been able to knock it out unless pressing from the opposite side. First thing to establish is how tight a fit it is in refitting, if it's snug enough then you can sort the fit and endshake, (remembering of course on the 3135 you can adjust via the nuts on the balance bridge side). If it's loose however, that needs addressing.
  19. Do you mean the shock spring, (kif), or the chaton which sits under the cap jewel or do you mean the entire housing for the chaton and cap jewel, (though I can't imagine you mean the latter) If either of the former, then for a kif spring you should be able to source a replacement. For a chaton or jewel hole, somewhat harder due to parts restrictions so finding it would be the better option. As per JDM a UV light and failing that try and clear away everything in the immediate floorspace checking they're not holding it and a vacuum chamber with a fine mesh/net over the nozzle should hopefully do it.
  20. Sheffield Allsport. Just had a refresh and service.
  21. Good luck and just proceed carefully, especially so when refitting the train bridge as they can be a very tight fit and damaging the pivots is easy. This might help you.
  22. Smith's just serviced.
  23. A service is certainly a good suggestion but after a drop re inspect the seating of the jewels and shock springs, (you'll need to remove the dial) and re check the pivots for damage and straightness, check the hairspring isn't catching in any orientation. That's a big positional error.
  24. Thank you, it's a really beautiful watch.
  25. The other calendar. A Raketa, technically I'm younger whilst wearing this A tricky one to take a pic of as the dial is quite reflective.
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