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StuartBaker104 last won the day on November 30 2017

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About StuartBaker104

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    Mostly wristwatches and the occasional clock. Love a new challenge.

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  1. Pallet stone replacement

    Thanks John - every day is a school day! I bought a tool like the former one for replacing pallet stones and found I couldn’t hold the staff in it, so made one like your other examples. Now I know what the first tool is for. Never had to replace a roller jewel, but all set now when I need too!
  2. Reattaching Stud and Hairspring

    The confusion is all part of the fun, but when starting out you will feel like this is so much detective work and you must decide for yourself which sources to rely on for help. I thought I had posted a link to the parts datasheet from Cousins. This will show you, that the 1187 and 1194 were essentially the same movement with different outer diameters. Hence parts are generally interchangeable. Look closely at the picture on 17jewels site and you will see both numbers marked on the mainplate... which is odd because that’s one of the parts which would differ, but it’s telling you where to look for other parts. Yours is marked 1187/94 which is another way of saying the same thing. 1187,1194.pdf The incabloc and other shock protection options are not described here so it’s probably an early datasheet. However, as we see from other sources, incabloc is definitely an option, and if that’s what you have then you will need the correct balance for that. Ranfft has one of the most comprehensive databases of old movement images. As you will see here, both 15 and 17 jewel variants are known. The acronyms you describe (A, HSK, M, F) appear to be an explanation of the train construction using the German names for the parts. If you look here you will see that expanded out in German Sometimes when hunting on eBay I find it useful to search using the French and German names for parts... Function “SCD” is probably a German description of centre seconds. Obsoletewatchandclock parts appears to have an inca balance, there is one here, or here One of the options at Jules Borel says w/screw Inca, but beware this is part number 722 which has a Breguet hairspring so no good for you; you are looking for part 721.
  3. Reattaching Stud and Hairspring

    So, you may be in luck, or you may not. My starting point with a question like this is to go to Jules Borel’s database: This tells us that there were 5 different types of balance used (although suggests that there are 10 different types of balance staff, as there are 2 different collet diameters). We can discount the Breguet option from the photos you have posted. If it is a shock protected balance then maybe you can identify the type from here Tapping on each variant at Jules Borel tells you the other movements the same part was used in which can be very helpful. Unfortunately all my usual sources of datasheet (Cousins, Gleaves), only show a plain balance, so these must be quite early documents and don’t help much. However, what you also see from is that there are in reality only 2 different staff lengths, so it is likely that if you get the right length then they will be interchangeable. Once you know exactly what you are looking for then it should be easier to find a part - John Senior lists 2 different balance complete assys for AS1187. He is very helpful, so would likely be able to advise on selecting the right one.
  4. Watch of Today

    Oooh, one of the 12 deadly sins... nice!
  5. Reattaching Stud and Hairspring

    Where to look for a balance depends on the calibre. If you are struggling to identify it, then firstly look for markings on the mainplate, under the balance wheel, or under the dial. If that doesn’t help, then post photos of both sides on here and measure the diameter too. There is a good listing of makers marks here...
  6. Reattaching Stud and Hairspring

    The spring should be pinned to the collet in the same way as the stud. The taper pins are hard to track down if you’ve lost it. Either make your own or they can be bought here... As Deggsie says, a new balance complete could be an option depending on the calibre?
  7. Beginner: Messed up hair spring

    Google is your friend... Anyone fancy a go?
  8. setting for beat error for cylinder escapement

    I have a scan of an old essay on this topic from 1864 entitled “The best method of setting in beat the cylider escapement of a geneva watch”. You may find it with a google search and when you get to page 11 you will find this...
  9. French Clock Chime

    Yes indeed - it’s been quite fun watching this discussion play out. If this was for someone else then I’d be bending that hammer rod right now. For me, if the clock stops then the clock stops and when I have the time I can sort it out. If it doesn’t then all will be good. Next time the dear daughter is away for a few days I will run the clock and let the chime wind down. For those who appreciate a picture see below. Not really a thing of any value, but was a fun project... especially building up layers of boot polish, beeswax and curator black to make the case shine.
  10. French Clock Chime

    Thanks all. I’ll let it run down and see how I get on. If it jams up I’ll go for plan B
  11. Worn non jewel pivot holes

    The correct way to fix this is to broach out the pivot hole, fit a bush then re-establish the hole and oil sink. You will also need to refinish the pivot by filing and burnishing on a jacot tool. You will most likely find guidance on the net by searching for clock pivot bushing. I know there are better links if you look hard, but here is a quick summary I know that some would fit a jewel as it’s quicker and easier, and some would try and punch the edges of the hole to close it up. Neither would be my recommended option!
  12. French Clock Chime

    Hi all, I have an old French Clock in a slate case that I stripped and cleaned a few years back. I didn’t run it for more than about a year before giving in to my dear daughter’s complaints about the chime keeping her awake at night. I’d like to run it again and I can think of a number of options to keep it quiet, but would appreciate opinions... 1. Bend the hammer arm so it misses the gong (but will obviously still make a noise) 2. Leave the striking train unwound (not sure if it will run freely like this) 3. Remove a part of the strike mechanism to stop it (don’t really want to take it apart if I don’t have to, and don’t want to risk leaving out something which will likely get lost over time) I don’t think I have any pictures of the strike mechanism, but from memory it looks rather like the one on the front of this book Thanks for your thoughts...
  13. As far as I can tell from these links 8800 is a base calibre of 12lignes and the 8123 is 11.5lignes and none of the parts seem to be interchangeable. Can’t find a specific parts list but In theory you could work through all the interchange lists to get a complete list of part numbers and then use a standard swiss part numbers guide (e.g. in the bestfit catalogue to work out what they all are.
  14. Hmm, depends what info you are after and why. A detailed service guide is unlikely to exist, but here are some links... There are a couple of teardowns of Bettlach movements on here... Cousins has interchange parts lists here Or use Jules Borel, the 8123 is based on the 8120 so take a look at both links here Ranfft describes the family S
  15. Pallet fork arbor change.

    As you say, the pallet arbour can be had from Jules Borel. You could use a pin vice to get it set in the fork before pressing into position, but final installation is a job for a jewelling press, not a regular staking set. My Seitz one has 2 stakes which are labelled anchor regul (or something like that). They look like this I have managed to make one good fork out of one with a chipped stone and one with a broken pivot by swapping the arbour using this tool.