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StuartBaker104 last won the day on December 21 2019

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About StuartBaker104

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    Super WRT Addict

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    Mostly wristwatches and the occasional clock. Love a new challenge.

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  1. Assuming that the watch is nearly fully wound and you've set the lift angle correctly for this movement then the amplitude is woeful There is a good discussion here on the topic of amplitude https://omegaforums.net/threads/amplitude-debate.78234/ With the amplitude in the 150 range, everything else is meaningless.
  2. There’s not a lot out there that I’ve come across, but a bit of data here: https://17jewels.info/movements/s/smiths/smiths-ry-empire/ John Senior seems to have most parts for it (and may have parts lists), but I doubt there's much more to be had: http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com/Smiths-RY-13-parts.htm
  3. I searched the Omega vintage database (linked above) with just the cal number and it offered 166.0026 as a case option. Thee are no images, but this also works on Cousins’ site as a combination. You may need to Google some images to confirm, but I’m sure I’ve come across this leading zero issue before with Omega case numbers
  4. You can still access it through the history books... https://web.archive.org/web/20130806005336/http://raulhorology.com/2012/08/eta-6498-escapement-fitting-the-pallet-staff-and-jewels-setting-depth-of-lock-and-run-to-banking/
  5. Hard to see from the photos, but would that be 14 good ticks then a step? Check the escape wheel for a damaged or dirty tooth.
  6. Jules Borel is listing the circuit in stock at $25 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=|[cE^K http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.126142/.f#jbpid-prod-details-link
  7. Anti-clockwise should slow it down in my experience. These trimmers are quite sensitive, but not so much as a mechanical balance regulator. if you don’t have a meter to check it, I would go for about 1/12 of a turn (like the distance between 1 and 12 on a watch face) and check over 24 hours.
  8. The BHI document says not to do this. Part of the point of oiling the cap jewel is to get a very small controlled quanity of oil just on the pivot. Putting oil into the jewel hole as well would likely result in too much oil which would then get drawn down the pivot onto the staff. It’s more critical on the balance, but still important on the escape wheel not to have too much oil.
  9. Charlie, For the quantity of oil, see here as per balance cap jewels. http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf This also describes other ways of oiling capped jewel holes, but I find method 1 the simplest.
  10. You can find the GR catalogue here https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/category/mainsprings-by-size-watch-pocket or use Cousins search tools, or this list https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings Jules Borel stocks them in the US. There used to be a material suppliers section on this site but it seems to have been removed
  11. Just found the above springs as Nickelsilver says. According to the catalogues, the GR 3254 which is 1.3 x 0.1 x 300 is the correct spring fo this watch. You may find that the NOS one you bought has set and therefore a brand new one may be better. Did you clean and re-oil the new spring or use as is? May be that the oil on it has degraded?
  12. This document does give some more info on the function of some of the parts if you haven't seen it https://sweep-hand.org/2017/03/09/citizen-8100a-8110a-chronograph-instruction-parts-booklet/ Did you spot that the pink document on this page has generic citizen chronograph oiling instructions near the end? https://www.thewatchsite.com/14-user-manual-technical-manual-casing-guide-downloads/171138-1971-citizen-technical-information.html If you search eBay for Citizen 8110 pdf, then you can buy a pdf of the servicing instructions... in French.
  13. What is the caliber number and which springs have you tried? Were they brand new or old stock? You may find someone on here has a spring in between they could share, or maybe try looking for a NOS Bulova spring on eBay.
  14. Yes, they are different - the 563 has a quickset date. That spare part looks like one of these... http://www.urdelar.se/Omega 563-1568, Correcting yoke Updated version of the 563 parts list here https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/370_Omega 563 NewLR.pdf See here for details on where it goes
  15. Well that question got me googling... There is a lot of discussion about this on the ”interweb”, but mostly in relation to woodworking and nail polish! Shellac is a natural product, subjected to various purification processes prior to sale which have changed significantly over the years, so firstly, the shellac we buy today is likely to be much purer and more consistent than in the past. Shellac flakes sold for making wood finishes definitely deteriorate with age. After a period of time the can no longer be dissolved in alcohol. I haven’t found out exactly why, but moisture, heat and light are all cited as causes. So, keeping your flakes in a sealed dark container would be a good thing. Shellac in stick form will have a lower surface area for a given volume and therefore certainly less susceptible to moisture. Once mixed with alcohol, shellac will start to react chemically, (search for esterification if you want to know more), and evaporation of the alcohol doesn’t get you back to where you started. This is why pre-mixed shellac varnishes have a short shelf life. Shellac is chemically similar to acrylic, and hence made of long polymer chains. I’ve read conflicting information about whether these will cross-link in ultraviolet light (the process that causes unbreakable watch crystals to go yellow and brittle). However, I would expect it to behave in a similar way - again, this is a non reversible reaction. All of this may go some way to explain why some people reprt there is no problem with cleaning pallets in alcohol and others saying it softens the shellac. I’m now into this deep enough to need a good chemist to get me back out. Any volunteers?
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