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StuartBaker104

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StuartBaker104 last won the day on November 30 2017

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About StuartBaker104

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    Super WRT Addict

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    Mostly wristwatches and the occasional clock. Love a new challenge.

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  1. StuartBaker104

    Clock mainspring winders

    I think I see why the strike doesn’t work...
  2. StuartBaker104

    Pierce 134 Help

    Interesting. I used a car windscreen sticker which was made of similar stuff to the watch protection film. I still have the remainder for future use and just measured it at 0.15mm. I attached it with superglue and in total it stands about 0.23mm above the smooth outer running track of the runner. I had no problem adjusting this to work... but sadly the rest of this watch is another issue.
  3. StuartBaker104

    Clock mainspring winders

    Good news - Too hard to resist!?
  4. StuartBaker104

    Pierce 134 Help

    I have answered below, but if you haven’t read it I would recommend the Esembl-o-graf manual which gives an excellent explanation of how to assemble and adjust this chrono. There are some variations, as the manual is based on the twin pusher variant, but if you have a single pusher there are a few different parts and a few parts missing which the manual expects. I have a note of those somewhere if you remain confused. In summary, spring K is used to adjust the end float of the chronograph pinion, by adjusting the screw nearest the pinion. It should almost touch the pinion, but not quite. This spring stops the pinion from riding up when the clutch is disengaged. Spring L is the lifting spring that moves the chrono runner away from the teeth on the pinion when the chrono is stopped. This spring should run on the plain part of the chrono staff next to the rubber washer Spring J is the tension spring that makes sure the chrono pinion doesn’t judder - like a tension spring on a centre seconds hand. This should touch the pinion ever so lightly. No oil is required on any of these springs.
  5. StuartBaker104

    Clock mainspring winders

    OH - you bought a mainspring winder? Are you planning on getting your hands dirty again?
  6. StuartBaker104

    Sourcing a replacement mainspring

    Rule number one when replacing a mainspring is that the one you take out is not necessarily the correct one, and therefore should only be treated as a useful reference which probably worked rather than being an absolute. The 8.5 is the barrel internal diameter in mm. Everything you need to know about why that is important and how you can use it can be found here: http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/mainsprings.php, So I had a quick look here https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings and there are just a few Elgins with DBH barrels in the GR catalogue. I may be taking a leap of imagination here from the info you have provided, but the closest to what you have measured is cal 6099, although there are 2 options for that. If the pocketwatch database doesn’t help, you should measure the barrel i/d to work out which is most appropriate. Cousins does have the GR3137DBH in stock if you have a 9.5mm barrel, but not the 3123 for the 9mm barrel. When searching for mainsprings on Cousins where the exact item isn’t available I usually limit my search criteria to the correct height and end type on this page https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/mainsprings-by-size-watch-pocket. This gives 4 options in your case, so you can select the closest - if you have the smaller barrel I would be inclined to go for the GR3095DBH if you can’t find the 3123 elsewhere Searching ebay for Elgin 6099 mainspring brings up some NOS parts for 6099-299 and 6099-300 matching the GR sizes. Personally I'm not a fan of buying NOS mainsprings as you have no idea of how they’ve been stored so they may be corroded, cracked, set or worse, but I have read posts from others who have used them successfully.
  7. StuartBaker104

    Barrel Arbour Sideshake

    It is possible that the wrong barrel arbour has been fitted, but more likely that the holes in the barrel and mainplate are worn. A google search will show you examples of how to bush the mainplate and bridge. The barrel will likely be more difficult to bush as the material is usually quite thin. I have done this successfully by soldering bushes in place, but have also seen loctite used. There is a nice article here showing a soldered bush being fitted to a plate http://www.bwcmg.org/sites/default/files/pdfs/timepiece/TPMay-June2017Web.pdf. I know Nucejoe doesn’t prefer this option, but Ive never experienced any distortion of the plates from the soldering
  8. StuartBaker104

    Should this bridge be replaced? 7750

    Loctite has no place in there. Think of the watchmaker who next has to work on this, and bear in mind that may be you. If the plate is flat and the screw holds it securely in the right place you should be fine. If you really need to repair this, then the best way in my view would be to drill out the hole oversize and solder a brass bush into it.
  9. StuartBaker104

    Lathe tailstock drill attatchment

    Awesome inspiration. Cross slide re-purposed... Only 1/2 inch of travel before it hits the tailstock, but that should be plenty. Wouldn’t have got here without you! Thanks
  10. StuartBaker104

    Lathe tailstock drill attatchment

    I need one of these! Penny Farthing tools sells a ground shaft with a taper fit chuck that I bought a year or so ago for about £30, It works pretty well down to 0.5mm, but I crashed and burned recently trying to drill a 0.2 hole I can’t quite see how this goes together. Have you welded the runner and winding bushes together? Thinking about it, I have a cross slide and may be able to use that to control the feed - will have to play tomorrow. Where do you get your drill bits?
  11. According to Boley its a (Panasonic) MT516 https://www.boley.de/en/shop/5866.eta/4982.capacitor Not too hard to track down. If you want an ETA original, Jules Borel has it for about $55, or you can find it unbranded elsewhere for less
  12. StuartBaker104

    No Date or Time Setting

    As noirrac1j says, it is likely that the either the setting lever has become displaced, or more likely you may be lucky and find that the setting lever is not engaging properly in the stem. Normal advice on this movement is to remove the stem when pulled out to the time setting position, and also to depress the release pin slightly when replacing the stem. You may be lucky here and be able to get the stem to fit properly by trying to fit again with the button depressed, or it may be hands and dial off time to correct. I have also seen a thread here which describes making a tool to pull the lever outwards, but it does need you to have a spare stem to sacrifice https://forums.watchuseek.com/f6/winding-stem-postion-stem-removal-eta-2801-2-a-675689.html
  13. StuartBaker104

    Nike WC0052

    These straps are like rocking horse manure and pretty unique. They must appear for sale occasionally - a leather one sold for $70 on eBay in February. You might be bale to get Steveostraps to make something (google him) from the old one.
  14. StuartBaker104

    Help finding lathe collets

    Thanks measuretwice - I can hear my Grandfather explaining all that to me when I was too young to really understand... but it mostly sank in, along with the awkward convention that a 1/4 whitworth spanner referred to a spanner to fit a standard bolt head found on a 1/4” bolt, not the measurement across the spanner jaws!
  15. StuartBaker104

    Record 1955-2 / Longines 505 auto bridge bronze bushes

    Now then Watchmaker... that’s given me something to think about. Although I have ordered some material now, I know that the addition of silicon would make it easier to machine, so I will see if I have any difficulty there. I did order a couple of new drill bits just smaller than each size to give myself the best chance of a clean cut. Will obviously have to broach to finish. As for Beryllium, that is now locked up in the nasty box with other wonder materials of the 1950s and 60s like asbestos, so not surprising that it has been removed from the Bergeon catalogue. Maybe that’s what this watch has, but I’d rather live with a shorter watch life than a shorter watchmaker life All this armchair watch repair is where I do my best work. Will have to wait till the weekend, but lets hope my machining abilities live up to that standard Thanks for replies both. S
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