I measured my Omega Caliber 1120 through an timegrapher app. (Dial Up, full wind)
I know the app is not very accurate.
I checked about +100s/d difference and sharply tilted graph .
The odd thing is that the bottom part of the graph is not printed every 100+- seconds.(red-colored circle)
Is this a feature of the timegrapher, or does it indicate abnormal state of movement component?
Thank you for the comments.
Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
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Yes it can; perhaps impulse jewel can't enter the fork horn, if the shock has knocked a pallet jewel out of alighnment or bent a pivot. Remove the two black screws then the automatic device, loosen the cock screw by couple turns, raise the bridge just enough to pass the impulse jewel over the fork so to get impulse jewel inside the horn, tighten cock screw. It will run, however , might get stuck again if pallet jewels have got misaligned or a pivot has got bent.
I decided to find a knew winding pinion for my Vulcain. I see some wear on the one I have. I have the spec sheet on the Vulcain 120 and identified the part as #1246. I searched around and found scotchwatch.com had one. $45. I really want it, so I bought it. Meanwhile, I continued my search and found a part with a different part number (410) on Northern Watch & Clock Supplies in the UK. It was just a couple of pounds, so I bought it. Later I looked at the invoice from scotchwatch.com and see that the part I bought is 1246 (410), so I think the part has two numbers. Well, we will see when they arrive. On part cost 20x the other one. I am not complaining...as I am glad that someone takes the effort to maintain an inventory for budding watchmakers like myself. I just think it is interesting. Learning new things every day.