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jguitron last won the day on March 3

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About jguitron

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  1. Looks excellent! How challenging is it and can you reproduce the results reliably? Even on the smallest of drivers? Thanks for sharing. JG Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Looks great!!! Can you show a pic 90 degrees to the one you took? I couldn’t open the vid. Maybe a Tapatalk issue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. This is the time when you need to adjust the hairspring. It’s the next level up in complexity as you have to remove it, put the wheel on with the pin in the middle of the way and mark the spot on the wheel where the pin is located while the impulse jewel is right between the safety banks. Thought to describe without pics! Maybe others will have images or a shortcut? Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Super interesting!! I hadn’t seen any staking tool without a shaft to guide the stakes. There has to be a away set things up. I wonder if these sets are more accessories to a basic set rather than the whole tool by itself. I’m interested to learn more about this! Let’s see what the gurus have to say [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I agree, the pressure of the stem on the setting mechanism and wheels must release some of the friction built up allowing the movement to run. Maybe gunk... or maybe someone serviced it and messed up the wheels/CP. As always, the fact that it does run one way or another is a good sign that you should be able to save it. Good luck!!
  6. Thats what I’m thinking... the teeth broke off. Can be many different things including the setting mechanism like the yoke or other elements may have become uncoupled. But the fact that the date doesn’t change either by quickest nor by advancing the time tells me it’s something at the calendar side. Makes sense? Hopefully it’s something that can be adjusted though! [emoji1317] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. There’s a significant chance that the wheel that flips the date broke off. This requires a trip to your watchmaker for sure. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I wonder if the yoke got displaced somehow and that's the snap and recoil you're fighting when pulling on the stem. Would not leave like that. Good news is that your readings look excellent and to get to your setting parts you don't have to deassamble the back part. Once dial and calendar off you should be able to visualize the grinding and recoil and how to adjust it. Good luck.
  9. 220 grit sandpaper will give you that finish Long strokes along the entire part is important to have regular appearance. Caution! You have elements of high polish finish. Either you’ll have to convert all to brushed finish or you’ll have to protect the black polish with tape. It gets complicated if you have multiple finishes. Be careful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The chronograph wheel is dirty or damaged. It has a clutch that is engraved and disengaged. When engaged it seems that it’s getting caught. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Super nice!!! Congratulations!! [emoji322] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Many times it’s just a matter of gently propping the spring towards the collapsed side. [emoji1320] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. That’s one of the reasons IMHO that mechanical watches are fascinating. You’re wearing a machine that carries quite a mystique with it and has us wondering the effects of sleeping dial up or down, increasing or decreasing wear, etc. That’s how we develop our tight relationships with our watches! In this particular case, yes. The side on which the watch runs slower does so because of increased friction. There will be a difference in performance in just about every position the watch is placed. That’s why there are standards that set which positions are considered when regulating a watch. The most basic one is 3-positions which is dial up, down and crown left (typical position when working at a desk). This means the watchmaker will make sure that the amplitude, best error and rate will remain within certain range on all those 3 positions. Then there are higher grade certifications like COSC that require the regulation to be done on 5-positions and even further, like Omega, does so in 6 positions and different temperatures. Bottom line is that our watches are never in the exact position twice while we wear them, so the ultimate way of testing a watch is on the “wrist simulator”. This is like a winder at certain speed of rotation. This truly puts the watch in all possible positions and over 24-48 hrs the watchmaker can ensure that your watch will be as exact as possible. My suggestion in general, once you notice that your watch is misbehaving such a losing time on one position, it’s best to service it to avoid unnecessary wear and tear. Welcome to the horological rabbit hole! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. There’s a specific plier to curve mainsprings. It should be able to correct the problem albeit not cheaply. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I agree. The claw is ideal for non-waterproof crystals that have a a nice tall side wall for the claw to have a good purchase. Those crystals are thinner and easier to compress, mostly I. Dress watches of chronos. I can’t see how the claw could compress a thick water-proof crystal enough to fit in the case. The press is definitely the way to go. Now there are presses and there are presses! The cheaper you go, the less they pushers align and the higher the risk of cracking crystals. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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