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jguitron last won the day on June 25 2018

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About jguitron

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  1. Thank you. Yes, I had come across that one and it’s very helpful. [emoji1303] My worry is that not being familiar with this case I was missing that it would have a retaining ring like the submariner that once removed makes it very easy to push the crystal out. I don’t think this one has it but I wanted to run it by you all before I pushed too hard. Thanks again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hello everyone, I’m servicing a NOS Seamaster 300 case number (055st1660324). I have a new OEM crystal and I’m not sure about the case set up. Does it have a retention ring I need to remove before pressing the crystal out? I don’t believe it does but I don’t want to damage this case either way. Thank you in advance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. jguitron

    Seiko 6139B assembly help please

    Quick observation, Your second vid doesn’t show a smooth train wheel movement. In fact it stops abruptly and I see you giving the barrel a little push for it to get going again only to stop abruptly again. Without the fork, the train should run continuously until mainspring is totally relaxed and the escape wheel slows to a soft stop. I suspect you have something impeding smooth function. Lint, debris, etc Another quick thought... we all like to have a little power on the mainspring to see the balance wheel spring into action and make us feel like the masters of the universe! But engaging the impulse pin into the fork can be challenging particularly with power on. I suggest to release power completely, place the balance and wound. That’s worked for me several times. Good luck!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Need way more info than that. A pic speaks 1000 words. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Sure! I’m not familiar with that solution but it’s formally a cleaning solution. Pegging is a good idea although it doesn’t come without a big discussion that can be found in other rooms... Now, that’s great for pivots and jewels but pinions and wheels may still retain some residue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Good job... that’s how one gets started. Obviously it’s not cost-effective but keep at it and it will eventually. My first observation is the cleaner used to wash the movement. There are multiple sources that show how using lighter fluid can really hurt you. Even if you don’t notice it, it may be leaving some residue, and if this is the case here and there, this could partly explain why your gear train has uneven resistance and thus the amplitude and rate vary so much. Add to that the out of poise mainspring, and the wild variations start to make more sense. Not oiling properly before timing is not a good idea but even then, I wouldn’t expect the significant variations you’re obtaining. Something to think about. It’s a good idea to let it run 24 hrs before doing more definitive timing measurements. The demag is a big deal. It should be the very first step before you even touch the movement. You should time the watch first thing, demag retime and then overhaul. Looking forwards following on your progress. Keep it up! Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. jguitron

    Metal watchmaker bench

    Super nice!! Where was that??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. jguitron

    Find a Case Back

    I would have thought it was near impossible unless it was the exact same model reference. Following this thread closely [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. jguitron

    Getting the back off...HELP

    Interesting. Hadn't see one like that. My first instinct is that it's a screw down back that you can have your pick of which holes to use all along the periphery. Good luck!
  10. Where are you located?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I confess I’ve placed the pallet fork upside down... could this be the case? Or the escape wheel? Although less likely because the other wheels wouldn’t turn... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Exactly the one I got! [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303] I love it. It does the work well on 90% of the parts. I do notice a difference when I go to class and they use the fully automated $15,000 one with ultrasonic heads. Of course, having that quality makes it easy to dismiss anything else without US. But don’t get me wrong. I love my machine and I think it can deliver great results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I have a similar machine and it does the job but what’s well accepted as far as I can tell, is that there has to be an ultrasonic component to the cleaning process. Spinning is all fine and good but adding the US is huge. Of course, that brings the cost of a washing machine way up. Hopefully rectifying your solution situation will give you better results. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. jguitron

    How To Chamfer A Watch Case

    Hello! I’m assuming you mean facet or bevel along the lugs.... Those are made with a lapidary or lapping machine. It requires a precision holder that allows you to move the case only in one direction so that the bevel is precise or sharp. It also allows you to give it a brushing or black polish finish. The Swiss machines are running at around $9000 and up. If you’re refinishing a case with a bevel.... then gentle touches with the buffing wheel at high speed can clean them up but be very careful not to round the angles. I hope this helps. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. jguitron

    Sand Dunes

    [emoji1319][emoji1319][emoji1319] [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk