Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
I was wondering how do the timegrapher phone app's out there compare to a dedicated bench top machine. I'm guessing it's all down to the piezoelectric pickup? I installed tickoprint on my phone the other day. But to get the full features you need to shell out $30, if you then also have to shell out for a piezoelectric mic, then you are almost at the same price point as a cheap chinese bench top machine!
Greetings all. I just serviced a Girard-Perregaux automatic movement. It seems to run fine, but ends up stopping for reasons unknown. It seems like it may have something to do with the center-wheel contacting the top of the barrel. If there is clearance, it is by very little. It seems to stop most often once the automatic mechanism is replaced. I'm wondering if by tightening the automatic mechanism down to the train-bridge, it's dropping that center-wheel to barrel clearance to nothing, thereby stopping the movement.
Does anyone have experience with this ETA 1256 auto movement that can offer any ideas as to what the issues might be? What do you think would cause the barrel to be so close to the underneath of the center-wheel? Any help is appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Cheers.
I have studied the data sheet at some length and there is nothing obvious to me.
On the right of the frame drawing there are a couple of sections showing 2 screws - I assume ? these are for fixing the movement and the strap might just fit these screws - but I would then expect two straps to be supplied to fit the two screws.
Bought an upright tool off eBay and there was one problem, no bottom alignment rod. So, found a piece of stock Brass and carved it up on my Lathe. This is the result.
The nails on one of the hinges were out and the hinge was rusted in place. So I used some small pointy watchmakers screws and replaced the nails. I then oiled the hinges and worked them in nicely.
Next, the box fabric was unglued on the Tom so I lifted up the fabric and spread a light layer of Elmer’s glue between the wood and the black cloth: and put 4 magic books on top for an hour.
Next step was to blacken the box as there were chips of cloth missing and it just looked tattered. So I used Kiwi Color shoe shine and it worked like a charm.
Now I needed to shine up the cloth on the inside of the box the same was...and used a paintbrush for the corners bu dipping it in the show shine. Then I needed to clean up the red velvet on the inside so I used a lint role: as well as tearing off a piece for the tight spots. I also needed to clean up some aging mold sobthe line roll with some help with a fine screwdriver worker great. I then shoe polished where the mold was.
The last step was to polish the Uprighting Tool using Peek and a lot of elbow grease.
Here is the before and afterAnd the Final.
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