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teegee last won the day on August 2 2018

teegee had the most liked content!

About teegee

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  1. One person singlehandedly nudged the price up from 220 quid to almost 1400.. Either fishy, or clueless
  2. Oddly enough, no responses -- even thought this particular light was actively discussed a few year back. Anyway, it seems a 20V standard power brick is about right for now, but it could be 22V or 24V as well. I'm waiting on Cousins for the actual specs. The diode issue was obvious; it's a zener (I was convinced it was just a regular power diode). I've drawn up a schematic for future reference, and attached it here in case someone is interested. They sanded the ID off of the 8-pin MCU, but there's only so many 8-pin MCUs. I made an educated guess, having used that particular pic12 before. led-bench-light.pdf
  3. I've just moved house, and of the hundreds of items in the workshop it seems the power supply for my Cousins' LED desk lamp has gone missing. This one, discussed here before. Could anyone with the same lamp tell me what the power supply looks like? Colour, type (wall-wart or in-line?), and specs, in case I have to replace it. Before realizing that I was using a 12V supply that was actually for my watch timer, I was already debugging the thing with my oscilloscope. I wasn't able to find anything wrong using a benchtop PSU at 18V, *except* for the main diode (that feeds the MCU via a 7805) being the wrong way around. My electronics education from 25 years ago is failing me in explaining how this could ever have worked in the first place, lol.
  4. I have that one as well, but am always annoyed by the huge amount of grease it leaves on the o-ring. I have to wipe most of it off again.
  5. Do you mean a pin gauge set? Myeah, I've been looking for one, but no luck. I get by with shallow tapers and ad-hoc gauges, which is not as nice indeed..
  6. Wow, beautiful work! How long did it take you to make that?
  7. If your jewel falls right through, you must have made beautifully reamed oversized hole indeed.. I assume you used a jeweling set to guarantee uprightness? Any tilt while reaming will enlarge the hole, obviously. It's too late now to say that you better practice first on a piece of brass or on a junk movement You could measure the resulting hole size with a ~2.3x mm rod with a minute taper turned to it, and measure at the point it binds. If you have a lathe, that is. That's how I do it at least, since I don't have a set of pin/plug gauges. Maybe you can recover by installing the next size up jewel, if you can get one?
  8. I have two of Cousins' "picker upper" sticks (sticky silicone pick-up tools) and use them all the time for tiny parts such as shock springs and endstones. One's gotten dirty to the point that it's almost useless.. There is a way to clean these, but i can't remember (or google) what is, and I don't want to risk ruining it by experimenting with solvents. Annoyingly, the Cousins product page doesn't tell me either. Anyone knows?
  9. With an amplitude that high, you're not far from hitting the banking (knocking). Hopefully your screenshot is from when the watch was fully wound, and at maximum amplitude
  10. Nice, these type of sheets are very useful when replacing an obsolete staff. I've added mine here too, in case someone can use them. I can't remember where I got them; I may have stripped dimensions from an existing image or something like that. balance-staff.svg balance-staff.pdf
  11. Looks nice I have to run a dehumidifier 24/7 here, due to a tropical climate otherwise slowly destroying everything. My workshop-room is sealed in every spot I can think of, but there is still dust ingress, and after a few months there is a layer of it all over the floor (and worse, my bench). The dehumidifier has a filter that slowly gets dirty, but I think it only captures a fraction of the dust in the air. I've thought about getting some sort of purifier that uses static electricity to capture dust, and see if that makes a difference..
  12. That already sounds crazy to me. Such a high end watch surely would be pressure tested to 3 ATM at the factory and should survive some swimming.. Would vigorous swimming (i.e. slamming the watch in the water each stroke) locally exceed 3 ATM of pressure? For seals to degrade in 6 years to allow ingress of ocean water at 1ft is also pretty crappy..
  13. Ah, I wouldn't call that a short rinse, especially in U/S, which probably makes it attack shellac even worse. I recently went back to a very quick IPA final rinse (10s high speed slosh, 5s low speed, then spin and into the heated chamber). Before that I used two naphtha rinses, but found that even the second rinse was prone to picking up oils over time and leaving an otherwise invisible residue that would cause hairspring sticking issues. I've also experienced melted pallets etc, but with a very short rinse there's no issue. So first Elma 9:1, then naphtha, then IPA, then dryer. I've never tried hairspring dip because it can't be shipped and I can't buy it here. Same for professional rinses, which seem to cost at least $200-$300 or so, in large containers.
  14. The sticks that Cousins sells are really nice for work-cementing etc and work really well to set pallets, but that type dissolves in naphtha, which I use as a rinse. They sell a light coloured a dark coloured stick; I've only tried the light one. Another type of shellac from cousins is shaped like large blobs, but that's more of a course pitch-like cementing variant that is useless for small work because of the amount of filler material in it. I have another big bar of shellac of unknown origin, which is useless for the same reason. In the end I got some old shellac flakes from my friend, and they work excellent. No idea where they came from or what type it is, but my one teaspoon of lucky flakes will set a lifetime of pallets.
  15. Wow, that is very expensive Looks like a cheap riveted together model too. Better (older?) models use screws, and have indexable pallet holder pieces, for different pallet types. To be honest I've only used a single configuration..
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