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teegee last won the day on August 2 2018

teegee had the most liked content!

About teegee

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  1. Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely. I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc. Cheers! Rob
  2. Thanks for the offer jdm! I'll hunt around for flakes first, and PM you if I'm stuck. I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.
  3. Recently I re-applied shellac to a pallet fork that had many years ago been exposed to ethanol by some careless individual (ho-hum). I was happy with two beautiful blobs of shellac (see pic) and dumped the fork in my little bench jar filled with naphtha, which is also what I use as rinses in the cleaning machine. When it came to oiling the pallets after installation, I noticed that my shellac had turned white and was half eaten away. Cousins sells three types of shellac: chunks, a clear stick and a dark brown stick. I have the first two. - The chunks are no use for pallets and are intended for jewelry work holding etc. They contain a course filler of some sort. Impervious to naphtha. - The clear stick works very well for pallets and general cementing purposes, but apparently dissolves in naphtha. Has anyone tried the dark stick? I don't want to buy it just to find it's the same as the clear stick with a coloring agent added. What do you use to cement pallet stones (and where can I buy it)? Cheers! Rob
  4. Very nice! Did you repaint it too? I have the model that has a rotating base, but the paint is in pretty lousy shape. I also still have to cut a new cork gasket for the cleaning head, and new corks underneath the jars.
  5. Are you talking about carbide twist drills?
  6. It seems I have been defeated so many times already that I don't even care anymore - Spent 5 hours making a new component, only to ruin it on the last operation? Just start over. The second time you can do it in 4 or 3 hours anyway. - Bent hairspring by catching it on center wheel again? Learn to be more careful and spend 2 hours spring-tweaking under the microscope. Even more fun if it's a ladies watch. - Some part pings into oblivion? Scout for new one on ebay. I actually force myself to purchase a new (old) part as a form of self-punishment, even if the watch is not worth the expense (unless extreme, hehe). One part of learning watchmaking is to stay calm in the face of soul-crushing defeat. A few days ago I assembled and cased an ETA 2824 in a miserable front-remove case. The watch ran great on the timing machine without the automatic module installed. I installed the module, closed the back and wore it for testing -- and it stopped after just a few minutes. I haven't quite figured out what's wrong, but if the ratchet driver wheel of the automatic module exerts pressure on the ratchet wheel, the wheel train loses power somewhere. Most likely there's something wrong with the barrel, or the intermediate wheel. So, start from scratch! Cheers! Rob
  7. Yep, this is what ended up working Super annoying case design.
  8. The movement can't be installed from the back because the dial is too big. So the movement has to be installed from the front, then the glass fitted. Then the stem is installed and the back is closed. I took some more piccies: 1) Original crystal that is only held (lightly) by the dial itself. Totally incorrect.. 2) Without crystal. Bezel fitting is normal V-shape that should take a normal slanted bezel. 3) New bezel lying loosely on top of watch 4) Back of watch
  9. Sure! OK. I tried searching for permutations of "[cheap] glass assortment", but haven't seen anything so far. Cheers! Rob
  10. I have a generic ETA 2824 watch that came with a completely incorrect and ill-fitting acrylic crystal. It's a rather annoying case design that removes the movement via the front, so a crystal lift is required. The back also needs to be opened, to release the stem. I ordered a new Sternkreuz HW high-dome crystal from Cousins, thinking that I could use my lift to insert it, but the dome shape is too slanted, and the lift won't grab it. My lifter is a old-school version of the modern Indian/Chinese ones (as pictured below) -- probably older than I am. Does anyone know what kind of crystal model I need to order for use with a lift? Question 2: Has anyone tried the cheaper high-dome crystals Cousins offers? They are called "DPA watch crystals". I normally install Sternkreuz N-series low-dome crystals.
  11. Interesting.. I wonder if I should try to get a few single cups instead. For rarer oils (like braking grease), it doesn't matter if it's in a 3-cup hard plastic oil pot. Old oil cups are not that easy to find though. For funsies, I had a look at Cousins. Single cup, glass wells, Bergeon is 14.50. That adds up quickly. Single cup, plastic, A*F: 23.50. Wow.. Perhaps I should just stick with 1.50 single cup Indian ones, and teach myself to stop stabbing chips off the cup wall
  12. Well, that didn't work out.. I received a set from China, and it turns out the cups are made of plastic -- some sort of nylon (see picture). That's even worse than the hard plastic ones I'm using at the moment. The seller clearly stated that they are agate cups and apologized for the incorrect description (probably just copied from another seller anyway). Working out a resolution now, sigh. At least he's responsive. So now I'm very hesitant to buy another set from ebay, since I don't want to run into this issue with another seller as well.
  13. I'd probably replace the whole base plate.. My feintaster looks the same, but with blue velour. I always had mixed feelings about the stuff, since it's a dirt trap, and I'm not sure if it's that great at trapping dropped parts (which I assume is it's main purpose). I wonder what would work better as a replacement.. Leather, like you suggest? Some sort of silicone sheet? Chamois? Anything that stops the part from bouncing.
  14. Ah, I remember reading that somewhere as well. Great to dab away the excess whale oil! Terrible idea in the modern age where a pack of rodico costs just a few bucks and lasts for ages..
  15. Lol! I remember replacing one of these some time ago with a square one that I had to file down in the lathe. I thought some gorilla had twisted it, and remember being puzzled that no teeth in the setting path were destroyed. Good thing this is one of my own watches! I still have the old stem, so it goes back on the todo list I'd never heard of a helical stem until you mentioned it! What could be the purpose of it? Perhaps to increase pressure on the setting wheel, when setting the hand? Doesn't seem worth the more difficult production process. I'm assuming the sliding pinion is also helical? (Sorry, kinda off-topic)
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