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Everything posted by teegee

  1. One person singlehandedly nudged the price up from 220 quid to almost 1400.. Either fishy, or clueless
  2. Oddly enough, no responses -- even thought this particular light was actively discussed a few year back. Anyway, it seems a 20V standard power brick is about right for now, but it could be 22V or 24V as well. I'm waiting on Cousins for the actual specs. The diode issue was obvious; it's a zener (I was convinced it was just a regular power diode). I've drawn up a schematic for future reference, and attached it here in case someone is interested. They sanded the ID off of the 8-pin MCU, but there's only so many 8-pin MCUs. I made an educated guess, having used that particular pic12 before. led-bench-light.pdf
  3. I've just moved house, and of the hundreds of items in the workshop it seems the power supply for my Cousins' LED desk lamp has gone missing. This one, discussed here before. Could anyone with the same lamp tell me what the power supply looks like? Colour, type (wall-wart or in-line?), and specs, in case I have to replace it. Before realizing that I was using a 12V supply that was actually for my watch timer, I was already debugging the thing with my oscilloscope. I wasn't able to find anything wrong using a benchtop PSU at 18V, *except* for the main diode (that feeds the MCU via a 7805) being the wrong way around. My electronics education from 25 years ago is failing me in explaining how this could ever have worked in the first place, lol.
  4. I have that one as well, but am always annoyed by the huge amount of grease it leaves on the o-ring. I have to wipe most of it off again.
  5. Do you mean a pin gauge set? Myeah, I've been looking for one, but no luck. I get by with shallow tapers and ad-hoc gauges, which is not as nice indeed..
  6. Wow, beautiful work! How long did it take you to make that?
  7. If your jewel falls right through, you must have made beautifully reamed oversized hole indeed.. I assume you used a jeweling set to guarantee uprightness? Any tilt while reaming will enlarge the hole, obviously. It's too late now to say that you better practice first on a piece of brass or on a junk movement You could measure the resulting hole size with a ~2.3x mm rod with a minute taper turned to it, and measure at the point it binds. If you have a lathe, that is. That's how I do it at least, since I don't have a set of pin/plug gauges. Maybe you can recover by installing the next size up jewel, if you can get one?
  8. I have two of Cousins' "picker upper" sticks (sticky silicone pick-up tools) and use them all the time for tiny parts such as shock springs and endstones. One's gotten dirty to the point that it's almost useless.. There is a way to clean these, but i can't remember (or google) what is, and I don't want to risk ruining it by experimenting with solvents. Annoyingly, the Cousins product page doesn't tell me either. Anyone knows?
  9. With an amplitude that high, you're not far from hitting the banking (knocking). Hopefully your screenshot is from when the watch was fully wound, and at maximum amplitude
  10. Nice, these type of sheets are very useful when replacing an obsolete staff. I've added mine here too, in case someone can use them. I can't remember where I got them; I may have stripped dimensions from an existing image or something like that. balance-staff.svg balance-staff.pdf
  11. Looks nice I have to run a dehumidifier 24/7 here, due to a tropical climate otherwise slowly destroying everything. My workshop-room is sealed in every spot I can think of, but there is still dust ingress, and after a few months there is a layer of it all over the floor (and worse, my bench). The dehumidifier has a filter that slowly gets dirty, but I think it only captures a fraction of the dust in the air. I've thought about getting some sort of purifier that uses static electricity to capture dust, and see if that makes a difference..
  12. That already sounds crazy to me. Such a high end watch surely would be pressure tested to 3 ATM at the factory and should survive some swimming.. Would vigorous swimming (i.e. slamming the watch in the water each stroke) locally exceed 3 ATM of pressure? For seals to degrade in 6 years to allow ingress of ocean water at 1ft is also pretty crappy..
  13. Ah, I wouldn't call that a short rinse, especially in U/S, which probably makes it attack shellac even worse. I recently went back to a very quick IPA final rinse (10s high speed slosh, 5s low speed, then spin and into the heated chamber). Before that I used two naphtha rinses, but found that even the second rinse was prone to picking up oils over time and leaving an otherwise invisible residue that would cause hairspring sticking issues. I've also experienced melted pallets etc, but with a very short rinse there's no issue. So first Elma 9:1, then naphtha, then IPA, then dryer. I've never tried hairspring dip because it can't be shipped and I can't buy it here. Same for professional rinses, which seem to cost at least $200-$300 or so, in large containers.
  14. The sticks that Cousins sells are really nice for work-cementing etc and work really well to set pallets, but that type dissolves in naphtha, which I use as a rinse. They sell a light coloured a dark coloured stick; I've only tried the light one. Another type of shellac from cousins is shaped like large blobs, but that's more of a course pitch-like cementing variant that is useless for small work because of the amount of filler material in it. I have another big bar of shellac of unknown origin, which is useless for the same reason. In the end I got some old shellac flakes from my friend, and they work excellent. No idea where they came from or what type it is, but my one teaspoon of lucky flakes will set a lifetime of pallets.
  15. Wow, that is very expensive Looks like a cheap riveted together model too. Better (older?) models use screws, and have indexable pallet holder pieces, for different pallet types. To be honest I've only used a single configuration..
  16. Looks great! I don't have nice bezel chuck like that and have to use a WW faceplate and some precarious clamp positioning. Much slower to set up, but it works
  17. Just adding that making carbide gravers yourself is quite easy, from broken drills or endmills etc. There are apparently many types of carbide, and the commercial ones that I have are of a darker color than the homemade ones. In the picture below, the two on the left are commercial, by Eternal tools -- pretty expensive. The rest is home made. They may look rough and crusty, but that's just the non-acting surfaces. The far right one was an experiment (very easy to make), and is actually my go-to graver for hogging hard steel. It is very hard to damage. If you start using carbide gravers, you need to be reasonably adept at using normal gravers, since any mistake will chip the graver or snap the tip right off. You can regrind it of course, but that's more troublesome because of the diamond tooling.
  18. I've been experimenting with a similar setup too, using a 10A DC power supply and carbon rod, minus the nice case. Not sure what's wrong, but I just couldn't get anything to stick to the dial, with various fluxes (resin core, electronics type flux, nasty plumber flux). It seems like the dial doesn't get hot enough through thermal conductivity via the dial foot wire.
  19. Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely. I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc. Cheers! Rob
  20. Thanks for the offer jdm! I'll hunt around for flakes first, and PM you if I'm stuck. I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.
  21. Recently I re-applied shellac to a pallet fork that had many years ago been exposed to ethanol by some careless individual (ho-hum). I was happy with two beautiful blobs of shellac (see pic) and dumped the fork in my little bench jar filled with naphtha, which is also what I use as rinses in the cleaning machine. When it came to oiling the pallets after installation, I noticed that my shellac had turned white and was half eaten away. Cousins sells three types of shellac: chunks, a clear stick and a dark brown stick. I have the first two. - The chunks are no use for pallets and are intended for jewelry work holding etc. They contain a course filler of some sort. Impervious to naphtha. - The clear stick works very well for pallets and general cementing purposes, but apparently dissolves in naphtha. Has anyone tried the dark stick? I don't want to buy it just to find it's the same as the clear stick with a coloring agent added. What do you use to cement pallet stones (and where can I buy it)? Cheers! Rob
  22. Very nice! Did you repaint it too? I have the model that has a rotating base, but the paint is in pretty lousy shape. I also still have to cut a new cork gasket for the cleaning head, and new corks underneath the jars.
  23. Are you talking about carbide twist drills?
  24. It seems I have been defeated so many times already that I don't even care anymore - Spent 5 hours making a new component, only to ruin it on the last operation? Just start over. The second time you can do it in 4 or 3 hours anyway. - Bent hairspring by catching it on center wheel again? Learn to be more careful and spend 2 hours spring-tweaking under the microscope. Even more fun if it's a ladies watch. - Some part pings into oblivion? Scout for new one on ebay. I actually force myself to purchase a new (old) part as a form of self-punishment, even if the watch is not worth the expense (unless extreme, hehe). One part of learning watchmaking is to stay calm in the face of soul-crushing defeat. A few days ago I assembled and cased an ETA 2824 in a miserable front-remove case. The watch ran great on the timing machine without the automatic module installed. I installed the module, closed the back and wore it for testing -- and it stopped after just a few minutes. I haven't quite figured out what's wrong, but if the ratchet driver wheel of the automatic module exerts pressure on the ratchet wheel, the wheel train loses power somewhere. Most likely there's something wrong with the barrel, or the intermediate wheel. So, start from scratch! Cheers! Rob
  25. Yep, this is what ended up working Super annoying case design.
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