Cleaning Fluids

[Geo]

12 minutes ago, matabog said:

one-dip is 99% tetra-clor-ethilene 

I didn't like to say.

[jdm]

Thanks for correcting me guys.

[thessler]

I know this is a simple question but I'm new so I don't know much.

I am about to use for the first time an old style L&Road variomatic cleaner. I have been trying to read up on what type cleaning solution and what rinse to use. It seems most of them are advertised as used with ultrasonic cleaners, I don't know if that will also work properly in an older style machine.

Could someone advise me on what is the proper solution and rinse to use for my machine please ?

Thank you, Tom

[vinn3]

Tom;  welcome to the forum !   if you can search the forum, their is many post on this subject.  cheers vinn

[clockboy]

I use L&R solutions (see pics below) the Extra fine + 3 watch rinsing solution & have been getting excellent results. 
I did try Elma but found it a bit to pungent. 

 

  

[Marc]

+1CB

I have used L&R Extra Fine and #3 Rinse in my Elma for a couple of years now and can't fault the results.

[thessler]

OK thanks guys, I just ordered both.

Last question.

Everything goes in IE- palette fork , balance,  hairspring ect. ??

Thanks, Tom

[clockboy]

Yes all goes parts of the movement go in for the clean.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[oli]

Hi all

I use an ultrasonic cleaner with greiner cleaning solution, followed by a 2 stage rinse with Isopropanol

it does a great job at cleaning, but once the parts have dried my method leaves very light marks / blemishes. For info, after rinsing I just let the parts dry under a cover of some sort (glass or jar). 

See my pics below, although it is not that obvious on the pics

Should I be getting better result (cosmetically?)

I am not sure what causes these marks, would I avoid them by heating / drying the parts quickly? (E.g. Using a hair dryer or similar). 

thank you very much in advance

 

[Brian3]

Hi Oli, I don't have a lot of experience on cleaning parts using your method but I certainly would not allow my parts to "drip dry" the way you currently are, I for sure would hit them with hot air from the dryer and see what happens, can only see it being an improvement.

Would be interested to know how you get on, please keep me informed!

Brian

[bobm12]

Yes, absolutely as Brian says, better results with hot air...also I've heard about isopropanol leaving a residue but I can't confirm it...I don't use those chemicals in my ultrasonic (I'm not familiar with them)...I use L&R....

[szbalogh]

If there is something dissolved in the IPA that has high boiling point (for example grease) will make a residue on the piece. Use at least a blower! Or a tissue paper that will soak most of the solvent.

Edited September 23, 2016 by szbalogh

[oli]

Thank you very much gents. I will try using a blower first, it sounds like that could well resolve my issue!

i will let uou know how I get on next week, I am planning to strip a 7S26 I just got from ebay.

thank you very much

Edited September 23, 2016 by oli

[dadistic]

Some  Isopropanol has water and possibly other contaminants in it, and will not dry clean. I use alcohol that is made for use in the electronics industry, 99.9% pure, and then dry with heat so that water does not condense on the parts. 

[Stian]

Hi guys,

Another question from a newbie: I have a rotating cleaning machine with three jars. In the first jar I have Sambol Platina 1:20, in the second jar Elma reinigungskonzentrat 1:9 for rinsing and in the third jar sterilized water. Thereafter the basket goes in the heater chamber.

My issue for now is that the first jar completely foams up. The jar is 3/5 full with the solvent but becomes completely foamed up. Is this a problem with the solvent or is it not actually a problem? I got this solvent from watch-tool.de

Stian

[clockboy]

I have never used the solvents you use also I don,t think water in the last jar is good idea. I use the L&R solvents with no issues. I have also used Elma but did not like it,s aroma.

[oli]

Hi all

i have tried heating the parts withba hairdryer after my 2nd rinse, and I am pleased to report that the results were great, no residue! The wife will be looking for her hairdryer now!

thank you all for your responses and advice

Edited September 30, 2016 by oli

[jdm]

IPA (isopropyic alcohol) leaves no residue whatsoever not matter how you dry up the the part.

If you want you plates to look good, give them a brushing, rinse with desalinized water before IPA bath.

[ricardopalamino]

I lay my parts on paper to absorb moisture and use my hand blower . Then I put the plates and bridges under the light bulb of a small clamp type desk lamp for 5 to 10 minutes .

[Halvis]

I have recently acquired some vintage Vostoks, and my dads old Seiko. All have stainless steel cases.

I want to clean the cases (disassembled of course) in my ultrasonic cleaner. I am not able to get my hands on any of those professional cleaning soutions like L&R because of restrictions. Is there any good alternatives I can use? Is isopropanol a good option as a final rinse?

Thank you.

[rodabod]

Washing up liquid is usually fine. A warm temperature (say 40c) can help. Don't run your ultrasonic for extended periods like over 10 mins without giving it a break to cool down as they can fail for this reason.

For cases, I usually find that hot tap water works fine as a rinse.

[jdm]

Absolutely, warm water, dish detergent and a good brushing are more than enough for cases and bracelets. I'm into this theory even more now that I blown my U/S cleaner (never run it more than 10 minutes).  

[Halvis]

Thanks. I want the cases to be really clean. Isopropanol can't hurt, can it?

My ultrasonic cleaner has a cooling fan and heat protection that shuts it down if its gets too hot. It can be set to a 30 min cleaning cycle and has a heating element. Is it not reasonable to believe it can handle more than 10 minutes?

[oldhippy]

I only ever used washing up liquid in hot water with an old tooth brush. Bracelets I would leave to soak. 

[jdm]

22 hours ago, Halvis said:

Thanks. I want the cases to be really clean. Isopropanol can't hurt, can it?

My ultrasonic cleaner has a cooling fan and heat protection that shuts it down if its gets too hot. It can be set to a 30 min cleaning cycle and has a heating element. Is it not reasonable to believe it can handle more than 10 minutes?

As mentioned before I've found that warm water and dish soap is the most effective for the type of dirt found on case and bracelets. But I that guess one can use anything else too.