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szbalogh last won the day on October 15

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About szbalogh

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    Super WRT Addict
  1. There is a book Donald DeCarle: Practical watch adjusting. Stepy-by-step checks to make sure everything is ok which is adding to the rates. These are not that bad results. But from a swiss movement we can get some more. Good amolitudes suggesting You can skip the mainspring and gear train part As JDM said, Du/DD deviance suggesting to much endshake. Jeweling tool needed here adjusting the whole setting depth. Hairspring should be tinkered to proper vertical rates. Or You just adjust it to Your average hand (left or right, top or bottom on the wrist) positions. And what about the beat rate and the sound pattern? All ok? No other issue?
  2. Soldering New Dial Feet

    You just found my video again Above i am shiwing an easy method how to find the point
  3. So this is the problem. The hole in the mainplate is not where it should be. It is shifted towards the pallet fork and from the second wheel. The problem here is not just stated in the OP, but the ascape wheel is not upright and the gear teeth are also far, maybe just engaging. The solution is not that easy. You have to measure the proper hole distance from the pallet fork AND from the second wheel WITH a depthing tool. After that mount the mainplate on the lathe and drill a new hole. You can add a jewel or bushing thereafter. Or just use the donor mainplate
  4. For me it is not clear if the escape wheel spinning if You wind the watch a bit without pallet fork? Without the pallet fork bridge installed the upper pivot is not upright, so it is possible that the escape wheel engaging the fork in the middle. Are You sure that it is sticking there if the pallet fork bridge is installed as well? It should work properly even without oil. Basically, You could file down a tiny bit from the pallet fork. The question is which part is the franken one? The wheel or the fork? What if You try the fork or wheel from the donor movement?
  5. Ah, sorry i meant the ready to use drill bit, and not the toolsteel. I have bought 2mm drill bits and just cut off the helix part and turn from the rest. On the other hand the hardening is not so tricky as i understand. It has to heated up and quenched in cold brine to get it really hard as old staffs.
  6. A drill rod should be ok as is. It is made to be strong and hard hence no need for heat treatment. But reacquires tungsten gravers for sure.
  7. No no, the OP has right. The clutch here is on the barrel. Its a Roskopf-type solution. And Clockboy is also right, one can tighten it with a light tap to increase friction.
  8. Seconds hand bushing / pipe

    just hold the drill with your hand
  9. Not working for me without coffee
  10. You can start with a simple nail, to practice. Moreover, the finished part can be hardened if heated in carbon powder. This will add carbon to the outer layer. The longer you treat it the thicker the high-carbon layer will be. And polish thereafter.
  11. Tissot 781-1 balance assembly.

    There are movements made with different stud mounts. For example Vostok 2414 has two type of hairspring mounts. The solution might be to repin the new spring to the old stud.
  12. To increase confusion, this guy made it from HSS drill bit This is a rational choice because hss tend to have the best balance of hardness and toughness.
  13. Chemistry is the same at any time
  14. Myiota second pinion spring adjustment

    Yes, it seems i cant skip it .
  15. If You can find some old road-racer spokes. They are super strong after treated like praezis said. Or there are some steel nails (they are blue or black compared to the regular nails), but they have low carbon, hence not that hard after tempering. There are also some writings on the net making the staff from softened steel and harden it after turning. No tempering here so it will become hard but not so strong. But a guy at Tag Heuer said he is making staffs from wheelman's nails But i found that it is way to soft. No carbon content at all. It is breaking and bending in the lathe.