szbalogh

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szbalogh last won the day on November 9

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About szbalogh

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  1. Rubbed in Jewel Closing

    One can make a new one in an hour https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHuOs9IRxH0 There is no need for the concave to close the setting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3gxp96WjCI
  2. Need help with hands

    Reducing the pivot length wont make any difference in the hand height, since the pivot is conical. Best way is to make the hole on the hand a bit bigger with a broach. Bending the hand on the pivot is a bad idea. Lifting the tip of the hand exert a great torque at the pivot making it to bend... worst, it can stick in the hole or break. The rule always applies that dont make any change on the original parts which were doing fine before the service. Make change to he parts which are new!
  3. Adjusting a broken Hairspring

    There are some holes left, great! Add the screws and poise it man! Poise it after You are in a good rate range! It looks from here that You will have to reshape the end curve as well.
  4. Adjusting a broken Hairspring

    This is a simple hairspring (no overcoil), i think a similar one will do. You have to determine the pinning point by comparing to a same bph watch, preferably using a Luthy tool. No need to search for the brand.
  5. Adjusting a broken Hairspring

    There are multiple options. The best is to replace the HS. You can also repin the HS if there was some excess left and stick with regulator way off from middle position. One can also turn ot the balance screws to increase inertia, but the options here are limited. Adding more weight to the balance should also work. You can do this by adding washers as mentioned above or by adding bigger screws. Manipulate the opposite pairs at a time and pise the balance if you got the right weight!
  6. There are some movements where one has to align 5-6 pivots at the same time
  7. Serviced similar movement recently (ST 96N), also from India My procedure is like this. Put the gears in their hole jewels in the mainplate. Place the bridge over them and add the screws and turn them half way in. Just to hold the bridge so that it wont fall off but it is moving freely up and down. Then hold the movement by hand (finger coats) and look at it from the edge from the balance direction with the loupe. Hold it to a good light. Now You can see what arbor is not upright. Usually i am using brass tweezers, thin toothpick (sometimes to thick) or thin brass wire in a pin vice to align the gears. The bridge usually will simply fall in his place if everything is aligned .... in case of some good movements. If it is not falling in place then i am just keeping my finger over it (dont push, just hold there), then align the gears, check them that both pivots are in their holes (push on the center wheel to check if they are spinning properly), now You can push on the bridge until it is in place. Have not broken one pivot yet.
  8. Guys, this is a Citizen Parashock! Also in HMT watches
  9. Meanwhile i have got a new ratchet wheel and a 2809B movement (without regulator and only 18 jewels).
  10. It has been a while since i have posted here, but now i have a real specialty for You Vostok Volna (wave) is added to the repairing/restoring queue. This special movement has a fine rate-regulator, indirect second AND indirect minute wheels!!! Moreover, the watch is not stopping if the second wheel is stuck into something. Other special features are the capped escape, second and 3rd wheels (at the dial side only the escape wheel is capped... lol)! The escape wheel is under the balance allowing a bigger balance wheel. The gear train was locking, hence the watch was not working. After closer inspection it turned out that most of the ratchet wheel teeth are gone... and the broken pieces were all over in the gear train stopping the movement. After removing the debris it started ticking again.
  11. There is a book Donald DeCarle: Practical watch adjusting. Stepy-by-step checks to make sure everything is ok which is adding to the rates. These are not that bad results. But from a swiss movement we can get some more. Good amolitudes suggesting You can skip the mainspring and gear train part As JDM said, Du/DD deviance suggesting to much endshake. Jeweling tool needed here adjusting the whole setting depth. Hairspring should be tinkered to proper vertical rates. Or You just adjust it to Your average hand (left or right, top or bottom on the wrist) positions. And what about the beat rate and the sound pattern? All ok? No other issue?
  12. Soldering New Dial Feet

    You just found my video again Above i am shiwing an easy method how to find the point
  13. So this is the problem. The hole in the mainplate is not where it should be. It is shifted towards the pallet fork and from the second wheel. The problem here is not just stated in the OP, but the ascape wheel is not upright and the gear teeth are also far, maybe just engaging. The solution is not that easy. You have to measure the proper hole distance from the pallet fork AND from the second wheel WITH a depthing tool. After that mount the mainplate on the lathe and drill a new hole. You can add a jewel or bushing thereafter. Or just use the donor mainplate
  14. For me it is not clear if the escape wheel spinning if You wind the watch a bit without pallet fork? Without the pallet fork bridge installed the upper pivot is not upright, so it is possible that the escape wheel engaging the fork in the middle. Are You sure that it is sticking there if the pallet fork bridge is installed as well? It should work properly even without oil. Basically, You could file down a tiny bit from the pallet fork. The question is which part is the franken one? The wheel or the fork? What if You try the fork or wheel from the donor movement?