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Marc

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Everything posted by Marc

  1. I did a full service on a 70's Depraz a few weeks ago. Details on my blog if anyone is interested. Link in my signature below.
  2. Given the price of Fixodrop, this link may be of interest. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&th=1284125&rid=0
  3. Some parts are interchangeable between calibres in the same model family and some aren't. The Jules Borel web site has a very useful facility for working out what parts will fit what movements. http://cgi.julesborel.com/ The beat rate of a movement is determined by the balance assembly and is primarily a function of the inertia of the balance wheel (determined by the size and mass of the wheel) and the length and strength of the hair spring. It is a specific design feature of any given movement. So I happen to have an 1803 and a 1950 in my to do box at the moment, so with a spare half hour this evening I did some tooth counting..... With both of these movements the center seconds wheel drives directly off the escape wheel pinion. On the 1803 the the Center seconds wheel has 80 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 8 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 10rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 150 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 2.5 teeth per second. It takes 2 beats of the balance to get 1 tooth through the pallets, so that's 5 beats per second, or 18000 BPH. On the 1950 the Center seconds wheel has 72 teeth and the escape wheel pinion has 6 leaves, so the escape wheel rotates at 12rpm. The escape wheel has 15 teeth, so that's 180 teeth passing through the pallet per minute, which is 3 teeth per second, so that's 6 beats of the balance per second, or 21600 BPH. If you use a 1950 escape wheel in an 1803 without changing anything else then you have the escape wheel turning at 10rpm (determined by the beat rate of the balance) but only 6 leaves instead of 8 leaves on the escape wheel pinion. This means that in 1 minute the escape wheel turns 10 revolutions, or 60 leaves leaves worth of engagement with the center seconds wheel, which has 80 teeth, so the seconds wheel will only make 0.75 of a full rotation. You need another 20 leaves worth of escape wheel pinion rotation to get one full rotation of the seconds wheel, which takes an additional 20 seconds. So with this combination it will take 1 minute 20 seconds for the seconds hand to make 1 revolution of the dial when the balance wheel rate is correct (18000BPH).
  4. That could be the problem. The 1950/51 beats at 21600BPH and the 1802/03 beats at 18000BPH. The escape wheels are not likely to be interchangeable.
  5. Firstly, there is a massive fibre sticking out through the main plate from under the barrel. If it ran prior to cleaning, and nothing was broken or dislodged as part of the cleaning and reassembly process, but now it keeps stopping, the primary suspect is foreign particles in the works. It only takes a single small fibre in the wrong place and the movement will stop so I would suggest another strip down and inspect to make sure that it is absolutely clean, and then reassemble taking care that no more fibres get into the works. Hopefully this will at least get the watch running again. You mentioned "many seconds slow per minute" but the timing app on the phone showed that it was ok. Assuming that the timing app works properly (you can test this using another watch of known accuracy) then the usual cause for this is a loose canon pinion which results in the hands moving slowly, erratically, or not at all, even though the movement is running fine. You can verify this quite easily by ignoring the hour and minute hands and timing the seconds hand against a known reference. This is because the loose canon pinion issue only affects the hour and minute hands, and not the seconds hand. If the seconds hand is making 1 full revolution per minute then it confirms the results of the timing app on you phone, and the canon pinion is slipping. You can even double check this diagnosis by assessing the resistance at the crown when setting the hands; again, little or no resistance means loose canon pinion. If the seconds hand is indeed taking significantly more than 1 minute to make a full revolution then the movement is running slow. If it is 5 seconds slow per minute then that equates to 7200 seconds per day which is way beyond the adjustment range of the regulator and suggests that someone has messed about with the balance assembly or the train wheels. If the problem is with the balance assembly then possible causes are; 1. Someone has fitted too long a hairspring. 2. If it is a screwed balance then someone has added extra weight to it. 3. Possibly insufficient end shake on the balance staff resulting in a lower angular velocity for the balance although this would also be associated with reduced amplitude which could compensate for the slower balance velocity, and is more likely to stop the thing altogether. I can't think of anything else that would cause the period of the balance to increase, just about everything else decreases the period resulting in the watch running fast. If the problem is with the going train then it would suggest that someone has swapped out one of the wheels with a wheel from a movement that is designed for a balance wheel assembly that oscillates at a higher frequency than yours. This would indeed show the correct rate on the timing app, but the seconds hand taking longer than 1 minute per revolution. First step though is to re-clean the movement and get it running, then check the canon pinion. ps. As has been mentioned many times before, if the amplitude is very low then the timegrapher or timing apps can show complete rubbish data, so visually check that the balance wheel has decent amplitude before evaluating the data from the timing app.
  6. @Myron62 I have just had a play around with a 2415 that I currently have in pieces to see if I can replicate the problem. Two possible causes come to mind. 1. If the reverser clutch isn't properly seated on the square of the M/S arbor then it will sit high and block the bridge from seating down properly. I don't think this is the case with yours though. Looking at mine, with the reverser clutch properly seated the space between the two reverser wheels is about the same as between the bottom reverser wheel and the barrel, and that looks to be the same as yours. This may be worth a check though. 2. If the barrel lid isn't properly seated on the barrel it may lift the whole assembly slightly out of the main plate. Fitting the bridge without the reverser clutch may still work as the length of the arbor doesn't change. However, if you try it with the clutch in place the increased height of the cluitch wheel above the main plate due to the less than fully seated barrel lid could cause the problem you have. So it might be worth checking that the barrel lid is fully seated. I don't think that the fact that the barrel and clutch have been replaced should be problematic if they came from another 2415. The barrel arbor is clearly not the issue as everything works without the clutch installed. I does occur to me though looking at your pics that the cluth reverser wheels look slightly thicker than mine. On mine the clutch assembly is 0.90mm thick with no thickening at the hub. If yours is thicker than this or has a raised hub then this would cause a problem. Glad you like the blog ps. It's always the ones that are staring you in the face that are the most difficult to spot!!!
  7. It may not be any help to you but there is a full rebuild of a 2415 on my blog (link below in my signature). The only thing that occurs to me is that the click may be resting on top of the ratchet wheel rather than against its rim, which would prevent the bridge from seating properly. The click needs to be held away from the ratchet wheel (against its spring) when fitting the bridge.
  8. General tweezer maintainence. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1214-dressing-tweezers/
  9. Like anything else, it's value is what ever someone else is prepared to pay for it at the time of sale which will vary. If you want a quick sale put it on eBay with a 99p start price, it will find it's own value at the end of the listing. There will be so many people looking for Omega that the closing price is unlikely to be unrealistic for an eBay sale. If you're not in a hurry then price it high and see what happens; you've nothing to lose. If there is no interest then drop the price until there is or it goes below your minimum.
  10. I've not worked on one of these but a quick Google and the found pics show it as an indirect centre seconds movement. These almost always have a tension spring of some kind that acts on the seconds pinion to prevent the jittery motion of the seconds hand. In the above you can see circled in red a screw that passes through the centre seconds cock and appears to bear on a flat spring. My guess is that that is the tension spring and the tension is adjusted with the screw. try turning the screw to increase the tension on the centre seconds pinion until the jittering just stops. You may need to lubricate the contact between the spring and the pinion if you haven't already done so. The tension needs to be just enough to smooth out the motion of the hand whilst keeping loss of amplitude to a minimum (there will be some loss, it's unavoidable).
  11. I have a Rolls in the collection. It's a kind of evolutionary step between a straight and a safety in that it comprises what appears to be a 1.5 inch section from a straight razor with a safety razor type handle attached. It all comes in a cunningly designed case which contains a honing surface on the inside of one lid, and a stropping surface on the inside of the other lid, and a fiendishly devised mechanism to allow the blade to be honed and stropped at the precisely correct angle within the case. I have used mine and does deliver quite a good shave but being a half way house between a straight and a DE it's neither as good as the straight nor as quick as the Gillettes. I have also had pass through the collection a number of Gem and Ever Ready single edge safety razors, a couple of Valet Autostrop razors which also use a SE safety razor blade but are cleverly designed so that a specially made strop can be threaded through the razor head and the blade stropped in situ, and a Wilkinson Sword 7 day set which is like a cross between an Autostrop and a Rolls; it uses blades that look similar to the Rolls blades and has an Autostrop type arrangement for keeping them stropped. It's called a 7 day set because it comes with 7 blades, marked with the days of the week, so that you only have to bother with a (marathon) stropping session once a week and just use a different blade each day.
  12. About 20 years ago I came across my dad's old straight razor, a Sheffield made Taylor's Eye Witness. It was just the blade and dad had relegated it to cutting quill pens for calligraphy. He once told me that he considered one of his greatest achievements to be successfully shaving with it on a moving steam train just after WW2 without any blood loss. Anyway, I made new scales for it, honed it up and gave it a go, and was mightily impressed. I have since managed to accumulate around 30 of the things along with a couple of vintage strops, and they are regularly used as part of my daily ablutions. However, for speed on workday mornings I use a DE razor. I have 2 of them, a 1950's Gillette Aristocrat, and a 1920's Gillette #77 set open comb (the only 2 piece Gillette ever made), and they get used in equal measure. Using Wilkinson Sword blades they are about the best shave I've ever had after the straight. As for saving money, my entire shaving inventory has been sourced from car boot sales for a total cost of about £40, and that includes 25 unopened packs of NOS Wilkinson Sword blades. Vintage Gillettes are now very collectible. I have managed to pick up a good half dozen at car boot sales over the last couple of years, never pay more than about £2, clean them up and straight on ebay. The one piece TTO's and adjustables always fetch good money, and mint boxed Aristocrats reliably get well over £100.
  13. It's a Revue GT56, a nice little movement.
  14. check out this thread, including the link to a TZ-UK thread. All you need to know.
  15. @AndyHull assuming gunmetal finish your best bet may well be to polish it up to a bright steel finish and then re-blue it with a gun bluing kit. There are plenty of them about that are a lot simpler than the hot caustic process described in the link that I posted. Just google DIY gun bluing
  16. OH, my apologies. having gone back and re-read the article myself in a little more detail I can see the source of my confusion. It would seem that "gunmetal" is a bit of an ambiguous term, referring as it does to both a specific alloy, and also to a colour. A bit like like "silver" which is both a metal and a colour.
  17. I'm not suggesting that gunmetal isn't used for watch cases, just that as gunmetal contains no iron it cannot possibly rust. Assuming the crud that can be seen on the case is rust (which it certainly looks like) that case cannot be gunmetal. Have a look here: http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/watchcases.php You need to scroll down about 3/4 of the page to the heading 'Black oxidized steel watch cases' and it explains the process in detail. I have a couple of examples somewhere. I'll try to dig them out and post a pic.
  18. Not gunmetal. Gunmetal is a type of bronze, so an alloy of copper, tin, & zinc, so nothing ferrous and nothing to rust. The rust that can be seen on the case shows that it's ferrous. I have come across many budget pocket watches in steel cases that have a black finish. No idea how it's done though.
  19. +1 on the Tyvek. I picked up a set of disposable Tyvek overalls at a car boot sale for that specific purpose. It worked a treat.
  20. Sometimes referred to as a douzieme gauge..... could be a clue?????
  21. I wouldn't dream of running away, West End have made some very good watches, and they've actually been going for 133 years this year. Look out for early Secundus models; some of them had unbranded Longines movements in them.
  22. To be fair (and not particularly helpful since the spring has already been removed) the trick is to not remove them in the first place. They are designed such that once the tail is free the whole spring can be hinged upwards, pivoting around the tips of the arms until the cap jewel can be slid out from underneath. Reinstallation of the cap jewel is simply the reverse sequence. Interestingly, these are not strictly shock absorbers, rather they are just retaining clips. The design of shock absorber settings is such as to allow the pivot to enter further into the setting under shock until a shoulder on the staff, which is much more substantial than the pivot, contacts the jewel and arrests the movement without damaging the delicate pivot. The spring then returns the staff to its operational position. If you look at the pivots of the wheels served by these settings you will find no such shoulder as the pivot is already substantial enough to withstand most knocks without ill effect. Also the springs flex only very little as a function of the mass of the wheel they support, unlike the shock protection set up on balance wheels where you have a comparatively large mass, a very fine pivot, and a lot of flex in the spring. That being said they probably do flex under extreme shock and as such may help to protect the pivot.
  23. I apologise to all who have been horribly scarred by the listing. It was irresponsible of me to have failed to provide an appropriate warning of the graphic content contained in the link. To be fair I was still in shock having stumbled across the listing mmyself. Who'd have thought that searching ETA 2783 could be so dangerous.
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