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Everything posted by Marc

  1. I have successfully managed to replace these in the past using the ball from the nib of a ballpoint pen and a section of spring scavenged from a spring bar.
  2. @jdrichard my apologies for the delayed response, I somehow missed your question. That spring is the tension spring for the seconds hand pinion and is there to prevent the seconds hand jittering due to the back lash between the pinion leaves and the teeth on the wheel that drives it (the pinion). If you try to install the seconds hand without supporting the other end of the pinion (or the spring) all that happens is the spring will flex allowing the seconds hand pinion to move down into the watch as you try to push the hand onto it, and the hand won't install properly. If I remember correctly the trick with this movement is to install the autowind bridge and the axial rotor retaining screw without the rotor. If you do this the end of the screw can reach the end of the seconds hand pinion, so tightening up the rotor screw until it just makes contact with the spring supports the pinion while you install the hand allowing the hand to be pressed fully home.
  3. The overcoil / terminal curve on your hair spring is way out of shape and doesn't appear to be between the regulator pins. The overcoil should cross over the top of the body of the hair spring (arrow A) and pass between the regulator pins (arrow B). Yours appears to go around the outside of the body of the hair spring rather like the terminal curve on a flat h/s and completely misses the regulator.
  4. Here ya go... This is a tear down reference pic for an AS2063 which has the exact same autowind module as the 2066. Hope it helps.
  5. I should add, you need to lift at the hub, not the rim.
  6. When I read your subject title I thought this was going to be something to do with social distancing!!! The wheel on the top of the plate (which drives the center seconds pinion) is a friction fit onto an extended pinion that comes through the plate, a bit like a sub second pinion goes through the main plate. There is a specific Presto style remover (mine is Bergeon 30638/3) for removing this wheel but it can be done with levers or even razor blades. The key thing is to ensure that the wheel is lifted vertically so that there is absolutely no bending force on the pinion as it is very brittle and easy to break, otherwise it should be relatively easy to remove. Reassembly is also easy, especially if you have a staking set.
  7. I hate that........ ...................... nothing worse than howling indices!!!!!
  8. That would certainly cause the symptoms you describe. The click spring should be one piece, yours has broken. It also looks as though the head of the click screw has sheared off too. You will need to remove the shaft of the screw from the plate and replace it for the click to hold in place.
  9. A bit of Googlefoo suggests that the Kered is a French brand that used movements from a variety of makers. Yours I reckon houses a Duromat 25 or 26 jewel auto which is a variation on a Durowe 7520. The Sekonda is almost certainly a 2609.HA, bullet proof and potentially quite capable once serviced. Not a bad haul at all for the money.
  10. As promised.. These from an ETA 2836. Here with the clamp closed... and open. Be careful not to rotate the clamp beyond the little stop post on the main plate. @watchweasol, definitely more of a sickle than a banana...
  11. Not on this movement, which is an ETA of some sort (or derivative thereof). There are 2 cut aways in the bridges which I think are what you are referring to. They should expose a banana shaped lever or cam at the edge of the main plate, with a pip at one end and a pivot at the other. Gently lever out the pip end away from the movement so that it pivots around the other end. As you swing it out it will release the dial foot. Once both dial feet are released the dial can lift off. I will try and post pics later if I can find a similarly equipped movement.
  12. General rule of thumb is that the hole should be big enough for the staff to sit at an angle of about 5 degrees from vertical.
  13. Try also googling watchmakers turns
  14. According to the images here you need a CR2025
  15. It has picked up the correct beat rate then (always worth checking) but the +++++++ display means that the rate is fast by a large enough margin to be out of the display range. As already suggested the H/S could well be touching somewhere that it shouldn't. You could also have coils sticking together either because they are magnetised or they a contaminated. These would be the first things that I would look at.
  16. What is the movement? Also does your TG auto detect the beat rate or have you set it manually? In which case have you selected the correct value?
  17. Here are a few of ours enjoying the sunshine yesterday. This is Basil, the neediest cat on the planet. Daisy. Passionate about being outside, we struggle to keep her in even in the winter. Lola, Daisy's sister. Maisie. Mickey, Maisie's brother and about two and a half times her size. Mimi, Mickey's and Maisie's mum. She has the most enormous sense of fun and chases balls out in the garden like she was a dog. Saffron. And Salem, who I think is Mimi's uncle.
  18. That's a big improvement. Like @FLwatchguy73 says, if you can reduce the beat error a bit you'll have cracked it.
  19. It looks to me more like a total rotational angle of 340 degrees from extreme clockwise point to extreme anti-clockwise point, which equates to an amplitude of only 170 degrees. Until you get the amplitude up to 220 or higher the TG trace will be of little use, and ideally you want to see the amplitude up above 265 to 270 degrees (total rotation of 530 degrees or higher) after a full service and with a new m/s.
  20. Sorry yes my fault, impulse pin and roller jewel are the same thing. Not quite sure I understand what you mean by that. Your TG trace really is quite something, sadly there is nothing readable in it at all. This could be down to many things but I would start by checking that the escape wheel teeth and the pallet jewels are spotlessly clean, and that the hair spring isn't touching anything that it shouldn't. Also that the pallet jewels are secure and correctly aligned in the pallet. Once the trace cleans up a bit then you can get some useful information from it.
  21. @FLwatchguy73's illustration shows how you can get 2 rotations stop to stop. Starting with the impulse pin in the fork horns as shown you can see how the balance can make an (almost) full rotation clockwise before the impulse pin contacts the the outside of the lower horn (in the pic) and stops. If however you go anti-clockwise instead then the pallet will move across to the opposite bank allowing the impulse pin through and the balance can then complete a full anti-clockwise rotation until the impulse pin contacts the outside of the upper pallet fork horn. In other words, from the position shown, the balance can make an almost complete rotation in either direction.
  22. If I'm reading this right you are saying that the 2 full rotations are between the two extreme limits of rotation, and this is not observed with the watch running under its own power but by rotating the balance by hand until you reach each stop. This is quite normal. Under normal running conditions, with the hair spring causing the balance to oscillate, it shouldn't reach the stops at each end of the rotation. Ideally you you want to see a balance amplitude of between about 270 and 310 degrees, which means a total rotation angle of between 540 and 610 degrees between the two extreme points.
  23. UK statistics released today show that 5% of the patients in critical care (on ventilators or in high dependency units) are under 30 years old. Not a big percentage, but hugely significant to anyone who finds themselves in that 5%. The same statistics show that the average age of those in critical care is 62 years old. Granted these are figures for people in critical care, not fatalities, but that is still a place that nobody wants to go. Thankfully we seem to have finally put the right measures in place. I just hope that it's not too little too late.
  24. Are your two rotations being measured from the extreme clockwise extent of the rotation to the extreme anti-clockwise extent, or from the rest point (I.e. with the impulse pin in between the pallet fork horns and central to the banking pins and the balance at rest) and either of the two rotational extremes? If the former then although a full 720 degrees is problematic (between the two extremes of rotation), 620 to 630 is fine as this equates to an amplitude of 310 degrees(ish), and could be mistaken for two full rotations at a glance. If the latter then it's an intriguing problem as it means that the impulse pin is somehow bypassing the pallet fork on the first rotation, but catching it on the second. This would also have some significant implications for the hair spring which will be winding up and unwinding by twice the normal amount in each direction.
  25. Sounds to me like the pallet fork is not interrupting the escape wheel. This would mean that as you wound the watch everything would spin, and no power would be retained in the main spring, so nothing would happen when you tried to let down the main spring. When you have the crown in the setting position the canon pinion has enough drag to also transmit torque back into the train, so once again everything would spin.
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