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Stian

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About Stian

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 12/27/1968

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Amsterdam, The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Well... watches? :)

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  1. I tried a lot of of different tweezers as I pinged parts much too often. This was before I fully realized the importance of holding the parts as gently as you can without dropping them. After trying steel, titanium and brass I came across bronze tweezers from Boley and I have never looked back. Bronze is so soft and nice with a great feel. Just perfect for me for most anything apart from hairspring adjustment where it's Dumont #5. Stian
  2. Hi gurus, I'm trying to find a face plate mandrel for my Lorch lathe and found one for a Boley Leinen Reform that is fixed to a headstock. I believe that ways are the same on the lathes but the height is likely different so that it cannot be used on my Lorch. Would anyone know for sure? -- Best regards, Stian
  3. Really depends on the history of that £400, I'd say. If it's a new watch, the hands should of course be perfectly clean and sharp. If it's an old watch (e.g. 30+ years), the hands would likely look much worse than these pictures, even. And most vintage watch buyers would prefer them that way. If an old watch has been make to look too bright and shiny it will even detract from the value of it. Not that gently cleaning the hands or indices will make it too bright and shiny though. You may hear about the 30 cm rule, if you cannot see a blemish on a watch at 30 cm away, many will say it's fine. And most people don't take macro pictures of their watches to study the flaws. If you do you would even find flaws in a brand new Rolex -- Best regards, Stian
  4. "As you can see".... only in up close pictures. To the naked eye you would likely not be bothered by this and I don't think you would need to (or should) do anything about it. Given that you would have to take off the hands for servicing anyway, very gentle cleaning of them can be done as Clockboy noted. But taking off the indices is a whole new ball game and the risk of damaging them or the dial is very high, for very little noticeable reward as your eyes simply wouldn't see any difference. -- Best regards, Stian
  5. Hi gurus, I have a LeCoultre 481 with a bumper automatic movement where the barrel is plain. There was an automatic mainspring in the barrel, but the amplitude does not reach higher than 160-ish. I took the mainspring out as I assumed it was set but it actually looks fine. So now I wonder if the mainspring is simply slipping too easily. Originally this movement would have had a slipping device (a ring coiled along the barrel wall), but now there is only the plain barrel. How would you go about putting an automatic mainspring in without it slipping profusely? Would you simply use a strong braking grease or is it impossible to get the mainspring to stick long enough to build power without the slipping device? -- Best regards, Stian
  6. Hi guys, I used the tips you provided and got myself a VFD, a Teco 510. However, it did not work out of the box and I struggled a bit before stumbling upon this fantastic video on youtube: A lot of what he talks about I think can be relevant to more newbies like me Stian
  7. Hi gurus, I'm in the design phase of building my own watch but am still not sure which base movement to start from. My idea was 6497/8, but it will get very thick very fast. Which other movements would you consider if you want to build a power reserve and 24h complication on top of? -- Thanks, Stian
  8. Thanks, and I posted the same message at PM just before posting here My home only has a 220V Shuko socket, so I'd need a transformer and adapter as well, I suppose. I'll do some more digging and see if someone closer may be able to help. -- Thanks, Stian
  9. Hi oldhippy, I had an electrician come by my house yesterday and he looked at this like it was an alien object. Very disappointing, that's when I decided to ask here... But I agree in your point and will try finding a more qualified person. -- Thanks, Stian
  10. Hi gurus,I recently got myself an old Schaublin 70 lathe but am in a bind over how to set the motor up and was hoping you might be able to help. The lathe has a 3 phase motor that is fixed onto an old table with tool drawers etc. It has a five pin 16A CEE plug that I cannot connect to my 220V socket in my house, and I assume I need a VFD plus an adapter to connect everything, but I really don't know. Would anyone be able to say more by looking at the attached pictures? -- Best regards,Stian
  11. Haha, looking cool is indeed utterly important! It looks very nice after painting it. What's the year of manufacture? And where is the motor for it? Stian
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