Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stian

  • Rank
    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 12/27/1968

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Amsterdam, The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Well... watches? :)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi guys, I used the tips you provided and got myself a VFD, a Teco 510. However, it did not work out of the box and I struggled a bit before stumbling upon this fantastic video on youtube: A lot of what he talks about I think can be relevant to more newbies like me Stian
  2. That is a very nice setup... drool Thanks for your tips!
  3. Hi gurus, I'm in the design phase of building my own watch but am still not sure which base movement to start from. My idea was 6497/8, but it will get very thick very fast. Which other movements would you consider if you want to build a power reserve and 24h complication on top of? -- Thanks, Stian
  4. Thanks, and I posted the same message at PM just before posting here My home only has a 220V Shuko socket, so I'd need a transformer and adapter as well, I suppose. I'll do some more digging and see if someone closer may be able to help. -- Thanks, Stian
  5. Hi oldhippy, I had an electrician come by my house yesterday and he looked at this like it was an alien object. Very disappointing, that's when I decided to ask here... But I agree in your point and will try finding a more qualified person. -- Thanks, Stian
  6. Hi gurus,I recently got myself an old Schaublin 70 lathe but am in a bind over how to set the motor up and was hoping you might be able to help. The lathe has a 3 phase motor that is fixed onto an old table with tool drawers etc. It has a five pin 16A CEE plug that I cannot connect to my 220V socket in my house, and I assume I need a VFD plus an adapter to connect everything, but I really don't know. Would anyone be able to say more by looking at the attached pictures? -- Best regards,Stian
  7. Haha, looking cool is indeed utterly important! It looks very nice after painting it. What's the year of manufacture? And where is the motor for it? Stian
  8. Yeah, I'm a bit the same in that I buy or get a lot of stuff that I probably won't use enough to get real value from. Tools are cool though I currently have an M1 on hand for about €6000, which seems reasonable from what I've seen when researching. My main question is really whether the Wabeco can place the holes precisely enough or if I need the 0.001mm precision of the M1... If the Wabeco is good enough that's probably the way to go then? -- Best regards, Stian
  9. Thanks a lot for your message, and I've also been looking at an Aciera F1 or a Hauser M1. From what I have read, the Hauser M1 might be enough for both boring and light milling, but would milling a case from stainless steel be - considered light milling? -- Best regards, Stian
  10. Hi Vin, Thanks for that, and I would certainly need to build some experience. Could you point me to that thread you quoted? -- BR, Stian
  11. Hi gurus, I'm working towards a project of making watches from scratch, and as part of that I'm considering buying a milling machine. Given the precision levels needed for both milling and boring, I'm considering a rather costly option, the Wabeco F1200. It has a 0.01mm tolerance for milling and 0.03mm for boring. My question: would you have an opinion or experience with the suitability of such a mill? Or would you have alternative suggestions for me? -- Best regards, Stian
  12. Stian

    Help identifying a movement

    Yeah, I sort of think it's an AS 1200, but not entirely sure. I'll try to get some dial side pictures like Tmuir suggested. Stian
  13. Hi gurus, I bought a 14k Ulysse Nardin a while back and need to get some parts for it. I however have not been able to identify the movement yet, and was hoping you guys might be able to help. The seller said it was caliber 1065, but that doesn't really help. Seems to me it's an ebauche maker's movement but which one? -- Thanks, Stian