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rodabod last won the day on October 19

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About rodabod

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    Super WRT Addict

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  1. I’m inclined to agree with what JohnR says. But I’d also like to add some of my own cynicism which is that I think that the snake oil manufacturers will sell you anything if they can see a gap in the market. But, I can see why it makes sense to have something very slippery and less likely to be pushed away than a light synthetic oil. That possibly is more important for high beat movement where there is a greater velocity. With regards to “which is best”, I don’t think anyone should offer any opinions unless they have revisited work they have completed over a span of several years. I’ve been using 9415 for several years, but I’m yet to investigate its effectiveness long term.
  2. Before these specific pallet greases were available, 9010 was typically used. It’s important because there is a scraping effect during impulse when the escape wheel tooth forces the pallet away.
  3. My lathe does get warm sometimes over extended use, and possibly when I’m working quite hard on it. If it feels warm on the casing where the cone bearings are housed, then I guess it’s possible that it could be considerably hotter atvtge bearing surface. Just a thought. And yes, I oil my lathes regularly.
  4. Thank you! I love David’s website. It’s superb
  5. Does anyone here recognise this movement? I haven't popped the dial off yet, in case it's marked underneath. Circa 1915, overcoil h/s, jewelled to centre, gooseneck regulator. I'm guessing it's just a standard ebauche with some fancies bits thrown on. Thanks.
  6. I think you can get surprisingly strong joints with loctite when it is prepared correctly. Some of the formulas have a sheer strength greater than that of Araldite. A good example of that sheer strength (over a massively greater surface area) for me was when I managed to rotate my entire watchmaking bench when twisting a 1cm brass bar glued with Araldite to a seized case back. My loaded bench probably weighs around 100Kg. Another thing worth mentioning, when you come to re-fit this hand, I would use a flat-ended punch/pusher rather than one with a hole in it. That may seem obvious, but I sometimes use the same punch/pusher that I use for the minute hand as I do for the sweep seconds hand, where applicable.
  7. Also, for a stronger bond, clean in solvent first.
  8. I use a two-handle Swiss Jaxa and find it opens almost anything. It's worth looking out for second-hand ones on eBay. I regularly open very expensive cases, so personally I'd rather use the best I can afford, and they aren't all that expensive. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-WATCHMAKERS-JAXA-UNIVERSAL-WATCH-CASE-OPENER/293326916000?hash=item444ba589a0%3Ag%3A99UAAOSwu~ldysXc&LH_Auction=1
  9. I can't remember using 603. I use 243 occasionally for some crowns when they do not have a very strong friction fit. Even that is pretty strong. If I were you, I'd try the stuff you have already. For application, I usually use a needle or oiler. I apply too much, and then wipe away the excess with tissue paper.
  10. The only issue I can see with using UV adhesives (apart from not having great experiences with it personally) is that I'm not sure that the UV will penetrate into the adhesive if it is already an interference fit.
  11. I recently used Loctite 603 for some watch repairs as it was recommended by the BHI for attaching wheels to arbors instead of soldering. I believe there may be an even stronger version. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_603.html
  12. There are versions of Loctite which would work better than superglue in my opinion. Or Araldite even.
  13. Sounds like a genuine front-loader to me.
  14. Perhaps worth mentioning this: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/7497-silicone-grease-for-gaskets/#comment-73705
  15. Genius! That's a great suggestion. I will need to try that.
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