Jump to content


Advanced Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


rodabod last won the day on November 25 2020

rodabod had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

521 Excellent

1 Follower

About rodabod

  • Rank
    Distinguished Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    London, Formerly Edinburgh

Recent Profile Visitors

10,196 profile views
  1. If you go a bit too far then you can finely adjust using a jewelling set sometimes.
  2. There needs to be more detail in the question because there are other factors which need to be considered such as the amount of torque transferring the movement part, and also the fact that plating can in some cases offer lubricity and in some cases offer resistance to wear.
  3. It's the long thin spring running down theleft hand side of the barrel bridge. Look at a Smiths 12.15 or a LeCoultre Cal 450.
  4. If the bush is sintered then it will hold lubricant inside the material.
  5. Might be that the escape wheel wasn't cut perfectly symmetrically as you can see one pallet (pin) starts to advance in time while the other retards. But its a miniscule error and one that will be entirely insignificant, especially as the amplitude picks up.
  6. If it's JW Benson then my first guess would be Cyma, then Record/Vertex.
  7. Hi Steve, Grits are always a bit subjective as abrasives wear down in use, and some are more effective than others. I reckon 600 grit sounds about right. It should have what looks like a grained finish, a bit like what is seen on some watch cases. When it comes to burnishing, make sure the surface is always wet with oil. Any oil will do. On larger pieces, the oil will turn slightly grey or dirty looking as material is removed - if you mop it up with a white tissue then you may see. Your small pivot may not produce much debris though. You need to use relatively high pressure to burnis
  8. If you were trying to make really cleanly finished balance screws then it might be worthwhile making a jig to hold the screw and centre the file. The BHI described how to do this somewhere, but I’ve forgotten what was suggested.
  9. Probably not, unless it was for a simple posing job. If it were me, I’d try to make one for that: easiest option might be to dress a carbide Stanley blade with a coarse diamond lap.
  10. I’m sure you’ve checked, but it takes some force to break a 3rd wheel pivot - the jewel hopefully is ok.
  11. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274518627908 Slightly odd way of listing the parts!
  12. Hi Mike, I obtained most of my files second-hand. The slit width cut is by trial and error. I’d also be interested in how they spec the width. It’s very possible that the slot cut will be noticeably wider than the file width as we are filing by hand.
  13. I think I can see the part with free post for about £7 on eBay. I’m quite slow at re-pivoting, so would generally want to buy the part and spend the time saved doing something else.
  14. For slots, I usually cut with a piercing saw and then finish with a slotting file if I have one of a suitable size. If you are finishing it properly, then on larger screws with a visible slot, the slot itself should be polished. I sometimes use strips of thin wood (coffee stirrers) to do this using a paste abrasive.
  • Create New...