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rodabod last won the day on July 2

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About rodabod

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  1. I would aim to get that amplitude much higher if you can. Check that the depth of look doesn’t look excessive and adjust the banking “pins” if need be.
  2. No antishock on the dial side. That may be original. Let me check mine.
  3. I was surprised to see it pinned together, but I’ve never worked on one of these American clocks. I like the anchor which is possibly made out of an old beer can (joke!).
  4. I’ve offered the movement below to provide spares. Can you check the type of anti-shock setting used on the dial side?
  5. Well, it appears to fit. Some staff lengths do not vary according to antishock setting. The pivot profiles can vary slightly, but don’t worry about that just now.
  6. That looks good. I think my one may have a slightly different antishock setting, but the staff may be the same length. I can just post to you if you are in Germany using normal stamps. I will send you a message.
  7. On D, it’s the open mainsprings which are the first clue, plus the shoddy plates!
  8. I think I have a spare cal 1002 which I could send you parts for, but I’m guessing you are not in the UK.
  9. Yes! Remove those raised lumps. This may be a sign that the old staff is incorrect.... and possibly some of the other balance parts.
  10. That’s an early anti-shock setting. When you bought the balance complete, was it described as being for anti-shock in any way? Eg. “Inca”? The new wheel either does not have enough end-shake, or something is fouling such as the roller or the rim (you need to look closely to check for this). This assumes you screwed down the balance cock neatly.
  11. Yes, certainly looks like what you describe. I’d be interested to hear how you get on with it. It may be worth inspecting the condition of the barrel wall too.
  12. If I had to guess for A then I’m going to say early French which I think is incorrect.
  13. I’m struggling with A. B. English (or possibly Dutch) C. German D. American
  14. Worth pointing out that to substitute using a T-end mainspring, sometimes a short section of T-end is used with a conventional resilient hooking spring which works as an alternative. More often seen as a repair job on older watches. Some barrels which have cut-outs for a T-end will also have a suitable notch to allow a resilient hooking to work as well - such as those found on 40’s and 50’s JLCs.
  15. They are fairly crap those movements, but the jewelled ones can be surprisingly alright. I serviced an EB 8800 not that long ago and it ran as accurately as a mediocre lever escapement, ie. very well! If you substitute the movement then you may need to find another suitably thick one. I guess the stem height may be quite large. And I’m not sure what typical hand hole sizes were.
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