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Everything posted by rodabod

  1. That’s usually a screwless balance. Unlikely to have been put out of poise by material removal, but not impossible. Compare dial-up to dial-down rate to see if it’s likely that the rate is being affected by the hairspring sticking. Also, does how is the amplitude when the rate drops in the other positions? Is it relatively favourable?
  2. Is there any evidence that the balance cock has been bent, or if there are any file marks or punch marks underneath the balance cock?
  3. I would use the meantime screws to adjust the average rate. Don't worry about poising just now. Make sure you unscrew the meantime screws by the same amount each time on either side.
  4. That jewel is cracked. It's hard to see the train layout from your photo, but if the side-thrust pushes the pivot into the crack then it would very possibly reduce amplitude.
  5. I reckon the Bergeon ones are probably made by Dumont. You can only develop your own preference by trying them , but these days I mainly alternate between a old pair of 3C and normal pair of 3 for "coarse work". I'd happily use a set of number 4 or 2 instead though. Carbon steel or Dumostar is the way to go in my opinion. The Carbon steel ones are glass-hard.
  6. That's not good enough, assuming you measured on a full wind with the correct parameters. I'd take that back. Be careful telling them that you used a timegrapher. Sometimes that causes the argument of "you think you know everything just because you are able to measure something". It may be easier to say that the timekeeping wasn't as good as expected and you had it measured by someone else.
  7. That makes sense.. So, each screw should knock the arm on the mechanical timer by a number of mm. You should be able to exercise the arm to see how it operates. If you have a multimeter then you will also be able to see how the switch terminals on the side open and close depending on the position of the arm. I recommend powering the unit with an RCD at all time, especially when the case is open!
  8. Hi, firstly, it's worth mentioning that these are absolutely fantastic machines and well worth renovating. It takes a while to get your head around their operation, but this is simpler when the two halves of the casing have been removed to allow you to observe the workings. One of the most common faults is synchronisation, which is when the main cam which sits underneath the turntable which holds the jars moves such that it is rotated slightly compared to the turntable position. However, it does not sound like you have this fault. The obvious symptom with this fault is that the turntable tries to move when the basket is either in the low position, or rising/lowering. You describe the basket as spending literally no time in each jar, despite the time duration knobs being set to maximum. This makes me wonder if the "timer assembly" unit has failed. Can you have a look at it? It's an odd device which is a simple switch which has a lever that's motorised which very closes very slowly. The knurled screws which adjust the timing length push the lever on the timer assembly open by varying amounts, and the further they are screwed in, the longer it takes the timer unit to close the switch.
  9. Yes. You do not want any spreading. There are many reasons for why it can happen, such as unclean surfaces (especially if there is a minuscule residue film of oil). It effectively causes as similar effect to the oil drying out as it just continues to migrate away from the bearings. Ironically, over-oiling can also cause this effect too if it creates a pathway for the oil to run away to. I've seen that on cap jewels where the oil has spread across the entire chaton and jewel hole, only leaving a thin film everywhere.
  10. Yes, that’s exactly correct. It’s important that they do not spread. Mineral oils can be awful for it.
  11. It’s also the spreading effects which are very, very important. That’s mineral oil’s disadvantage. And hence why oils are sometimes blended.
  12. Did you mention at any point what amplitude you are achieving on a full wind? Running duration can be affected by both the number of turns available from the spring, and the load presented by the train. For example, you could achieve 6 turns of the mainspring, but only be able to use 4 of those turns due to the load presented by the going train.
  13. This thread may help others who struggle with the nomenclature:
  14. Oh, I certainly meant with the lathe running! Works a treat for a quick job. Make sure to move the saw blade to prevent heat build-up too.
  15. The L&R oil-based ones aren’t really very smelly. They have been an industry standard for decades, probably for good reason. I’m sure other competitors are just as good, if not better.
  16. Another bit of advice: be careful if you use a water based cleaner and don’t dry it properly as this is the sort of part that would need heat to bake the moisture out. I’d possibly be tempted to just clean it and re-oil, unless you have access to spares. As per conventional canon pinions, do not leave it unlubricated, even if it feels “right” as it will inevitably begin to bind over time and possibly seize entirely.
  17. I’m sure this may be considered a faux pas to some, but for a rough cut on larger items, I sometimes mark a groove with my graver and then cut with with a piercing saw.
  18. Just to continue the point that Frank is describing, the thickness is your more likely issue here, as the difference between 0.11 and 0.10 is 10%...... and that difference is effectively cubed when it comes to calculating force. 1 cubed = 1 1.1 cubed = 1.331 That’s an increase of 33%
  19. With a typical multimeter, the best you can do is check that the battery voltage is arriving into the PCB, and that the coil is in the range of a low number of KOhms, say between 1 and 10K is fairly typical.
  20. Is this presumably a friction clutch which replaces the need for a conventional canon pinion?
  21. A few bits of advice from my experiences with the same issue: Sometimes you can gauge how much the new spring is too strong if you can get it to run in a position where the amplitude drops (eg. crown down). Or perhaps it runs ok on a lower level of wind, eg. up until 3/4 wound. Although the torque follows the thickness by a cube rule, I’d say you are more likely to be successful by dropping to 0.10 if it very easily starts to bank. You are already getting what is in effect probably more than 360 degrees of amplitude..... I would not alter the temper of the spring to deliberately cause it to set as this is not the same as having a set spring which remains at the correct temper.
  22. I find these movements can be a bit fussy and sometimes will "pick up" after running in a little. Good job!
  23. It's sometimes hard to make judgements just from photos like this. Ultimately what matters is how well it runs, and how long it will continue to run well for. One disadvantage of overoiling is that there is an increased risk of spreading from my experience, but that relates to oil on jewel holes and cap jewels. Pallets are more complex due to the scraping effect and impact.
  24. It should work, but note that some models have different heights of wheels presumably to accommodate thicker dials.
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