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Everything posted by rodabod

  1. What JDM says. I seem to repeat this a lot, but: you are more likely to have issues at the faster end of the gear train (including the balance/escapement) as there is considerably less torque at this end. It's a common assumption of beginner that mainsprings should be a likely cause of stopping a watch. Unless they are broken or slipping, this is unlikely to be the case.
  2. Hi Michael, It's possible that the hairspring stud or index pins could have moved as these use the Etachron system which is seen on some modern watches. Basically, the parts are moveable: I would be aware of this before manipulating the hairspring. And also accept that hairspring work is not trivial. Might be best to get a new one just now, but your other problem is that these aren't as simple to fit to the balance cock as older designs (where you simply tighten the hairspring stud with a screw). In answer to your other question, the pallet fork does not need to be matched to the balance.
  3. Open "boot" on index pins. Loosen stud screw. Remove balance. Remove two screws on underside of balance cock to remove cap jewel. Oil drop should cover around 50% of the cap jewel. Refer to BHI document.
  4. The way it's sitting in the photos, the terminal curve doesn't look good.
  5. The AF Swiss ones are perfectly good. Far more important is the quality of the tips and keeping them well dressed.
  6. Hi, my friend Antoine sells them here: https://www.mwrforum.net/forums/showthread.php?80698-SWEEPS-SECOND-FRICTION-SPRING-FOR-THE-JLC-CAL-450
  7. I think Moebius must have learned to sell snake oil before moving onto horological oils. The only possibility I can think of is where natural oils oxidise and turn acidic.
  8. I often observe the balance wheel oscillating without the pallets to get an idea of freedom of movement. You could try the same and compare vertical with horizontal. Helps to take the escapement out of the equation.
  9. Check for the hairspring rubbing as suggested.
  10. Also check that the barrel lid is not domed, as this obviously reduces diameter.
  11. If you own a lathe then you could spread some of the material (preferably in a vice rather than punching) and then turn it concentric if need be. Has the barrel or barrel rebate been stretched or worn? It can happen when a spring suddenly breaks. On larger clocks this can even shatter the barrel wall (been there).
  12. To do a train count (apologies if you know this already), you just need to know the tooth and pinion counts of each wheel from the centre wheel onwards. From there you can calculate how many beats are required to make the centre wheel turn once (ie. one hour).
  13. That looks like very good performance. Remove the C/S cock and look at where the spring attached. Also check if it is contaminated with oil. You can then very slightly bend the spring (just lift with your tweezers) to create more pressure and therefore more friction to reduce the "slack".
  14. Love these watches! I picked up another Gen 1 last week too which has the better 7A28 movement.
  15. Do you have the centre-seconds friction spring set correctly? It should cause enough friction to drop the overall amplitude by around 5-20 degrees. With it set too loose, you will see slack in the meshing between the 3rd wheel and CS pinion.
  16. I’ve never had an issue with using a Platax. I’ve seen balance wheels which have damage due to over-enthusiastic work with the graver when a staff has been turned down. But you could easily damage a balance wheel by incorrectly using a Platax.
  17. I find it hard to see how you could get such an extreme rate change such as the graph posted below, unless it was related to the vibration of the hairspring. Are you absolutely sure that it isn’t contaminated or rubbing/sticking? I have noticed when working on a relatively new 2824 yesterday that they do seem to be susceptible to drying out and possibly wearing slightly at the escape wheel which results in a sludge embedded in the escape wheel teeth. This can potentially require careful cleaning with pith wood if your cleaning solution does not remove it. However, it’s unlikely to cause as drastic rate changes as you are seeing, unless the overall amplitude was extremely low.
  18. I think that realistically, you could possibly make something from some suitable jars, a basket, and a sewing machine motor. It just depends on suitability of these parts. I wonder if Ikea sell something like a rice or coffee jar with a solid lid which motor could be attached to. Machines do turn up on eBay, but the cheaper ones are inevitably death traps which need work to make them properly safe.
  19. Swap the circuit if you can first, because the height of the hour wheel / canon pinion / CS pinion vary between models. Certainly the one fitted to the Seiko Gen 2 Military chronograph differs to the newest movement available. Can measure the current draw later to see if it’s running well enough to give a thumbs-up.
  20. I usually use a Bergeon presto hand lifter. Never had an issue with it, but the copies are terrible. You can dress Indian hand levers to work well, and also use them for lifting hairsprings. I couldn’t work without a timegrapher. You can’t easily evaluate poise and adjustment without one.
  21. Are you using something like a lathe to keep the rod perpendicular to the die?
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