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Everything posted by rodabod

  1. More likely to be a bent cock if anything. Ooh err.
  2. No gasket. Measure the rebate dimension and fit the next size up. You should be able to press it in without using a claw.
  3. @jnash I moved the position of one of the metal arms inside to change the synchronisation and it now appears to be spot-on. Thanks!
  4. Thank you. I did jam it accidentally by leaving the hydraulic fluid cup inserted (jams the rotating platform). I will look at re-syncing it as you suggest.
  5. Hi, This Varimatic is new to me. Checking it without the jars installed, it appears to be working, but I’m concerned the heights are a bit off compared to the jar heights. Has anyone else adjusted one of these and can comment on my videos of it operating? I’ve uploaded a video below. I start by holding the button down to advance to the first jar, and then do the same to advance to the second jar. Thanks. https://streamable.com/s/t33od/bzwz
  6. Having a dimple in the spring doesn’t generally matter. What matters is that you get the amount of friction correct. If it’s really concave then squeeze between tweezers. It should drop the amplitude somewhere in the vague region of 10 degrees when fitted.
  7. Can you remove the crown wheel, ratchet wheel, and the associated bridge? Your hairspring looks unwell. I would be looking for a donor movement to help.
  8. I presume you have already read this: https://bhi.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/BHI-DLC-Technician-Grade-SAMPLE.pdf I can probably list the contents without fear of breaching copyright, but it might take a while. I think there is relatively more theory than you may find elsewhere. Certainly a lot of content on the theory of escapements which is essential if you want to be able to fault-find effectively. There are many practical exercises too, which give you all the details you need to know about the techniques required. As far as I understand, you do need to attend in person to sit the exams. Alternatively, just do the coursework and consider sitting it at a later date, or if you are over on holiday.
  9. I’ll keep an open mind. I’ve seen so many fakes before that I always remain sceptical. Also, there are no broadarrow or similar government property marks to be seen.
  10. My gut feeling is that it's a re-printed dial to add some value. That would explain why it has "RAF" pencilled on the back of the dial (why write it when it's printed on the dial?).
  11. You get a lot of fake sector clocks. I'm not sure any ever existed with platform escapements.
  12. If you haven't got much to lose with the existing balance, then I might see how much you can bring the rate down with the two mean-time balance screws. Draw them out an equal number of turns and see what you can do with the rate. Note that they affect poise and must be done equally. They are the two screws with longer threads which are not fully screwed down. Sometimes KIF and Inca staffs are interchangeable and sometimes not. You'll know soon enough if you try another balance and it has too little or too much endshake. Judging by the chamfering on the pallet fork, I'd suggest this was possibly also one of Tudor's modifications.
  13. Has someone punched the pallet cock at some point? They are sometime slightly adjustable on these pin pallet watches.
  14. Chemical recation between markers and dial? Is it a plated dial? Send an email to Zenith and tell them that you are a long term customer but are dissapointed; can you help? etc.
  15. Personally, I'd avoid the Chinese copy. Go second-hand Swiss. In all likelihood the Swiss tool will have superior build quality, tolerances, and material.
  16. Get some self adhesive 3M tape and make some buff sticks. Don't use a mop as you'll round the edges. Get the equivalent of 200, 400 and 800 grit (I can't remember the micron equivalent, so look it up) and see how you get on by experimenting on scrap cases.
  17. Looks very good to me. The "noise" as opposed to a straight line is often inconsistency/un-evenness of the individual beats of the escapement. In my experience, this is due to cleanliness or lubrication (including over-lubrication) of the escapement. I'd still say it looks "ok". The other reason for the noise is if the watch pickup is not getting a strong enough signal. But if you want to clean that trace up, I'd first ask: did you clean the escape wheel and pallets, are the pallet jewel holes clean, and are the pallet stones lightly lubricated?
  18. I’m inclined to agree with what JohnR says. But I’d also like to add some of my own cynicism which is that I think that the snake oil manufacturers will sell you anything if they can see a gap in the market. But, I can see why it makes sense to have something very slippery and less likely to be pushed away than a light synthetic oil. That possibly is more important for high beat movement where there is a greater velocity. With regards to “which is best”, I don’t think anyone should offer any opinions unless they have revisited work they have completed over a span of several years. I’ve been using 9415 for several years, but I’m yet to investigate its effectiveness long term.
  19. Before these specific pallet greases were available, 9010 was typically used. It’s important because there is a scraping effect during impulse when the escape wheel tooth forces the pallet away.
  20. My lathe does get warm sometimes over extended use, and possibly when I’m working quite hard on it. If it feels warm on the casing where the cone bearings are housed, then I guess it’s possible that it could be considerably hotter atvtge bearing surface. Just a thought. And yes, I oil my lathes regularly.
  21. Thank you! I love David’s website. It’s superb
  22. Does anyone here recognise this movement? I haven't popped the dial off yet, in case it's marked underneath. Circa 1915, overcoil h/s, jewelled to centre, gooseneck regulator. I'm guessing it's just a standard ebauche with some fancies bits thrown on. Thanks.
  23. I think you can get surprisingly strong joints with loctite when it is prepared correctly. Some of the formulas have a sheer strength greater than that of Araldite. A good example of that sheer strength (over a massively greater surface area) for me was when I managed to rotate my entire watchmaking bench when twisting a 1cm brass bar glued with Araldite to a seized case back. My loaded bench probably weighs around 100Kg. Another thing worth mentioning, when you come to re-fit this hand, I would use a flat-ended punch/pusher rather than one with a hole in it. That may seem obvious, but I sometimes use the same punch/pusher that I use for the minute hand as I do for the sweep seconds hand, where applicable.
  24. I use a two-handle Swiss Jaxa and find it opens almost anything. It's worth looking out for second-hand ones on eBay. I regularly open very expensive cases, so personally I'd rather use the best I can afford, and they aren't all that expensive. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-WATCHMAKERS-JAXA-UNIVERSAL-WATCH-CASE-OPENER/293326916000?hash=item444ba589a0%3Ag%3A99UAAOSwu~ldysXc&LH_Auction=1
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