Cleaning Fluids

[oldhippy]

You can buy wash out brushes, but his is the type I would recommend.

[gmoodyii]

Great advice! My jewelers bench should arrive today, so I will have a better working surface to practice on.

I will be on the lookout for a brush like the one you described oldhippy, THANKS!

[Marc]

30 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

You can buy wash out brushes, but his is the type I would recommend.

I could be wrong here but that looks an awful lot like a fibreglass scratch brush, in which case I would recomend extreme caution in respect to exactly what you brush with it.

This type of brush is extremely aggressive and as such it is great for removing rust from steel parts or for imarting a fine grained effect on softer metals. However, if you use it on movement plates that are plated there is a good chance that you will go through the plating, and if you are trying to clean parts that have anything other than a brushed or straight grained finish to them, then you could very easily end up damaging the finish.

A good half way point between the very gentle artists brush and the aggressive fibreglass brush can be found in the toileteries aisle at the supermarket. Tooth brushes, especially the smaller childrens brushes, are great for hand cleaning movement plates, and for the more fiddly bits have a look for interdental brushes. These are like miniature bottle brushes and come in a variety of sizes from 0.4mm up to about 1.1mm (size of the wire core) and have relatively stiff nylon bristles, so they are really good for getting into all of the nooks and cranies.

And of course you can get your tooth picks at the same time.

[oldhippy]

gmoodyii

 

27 minutes ago, Marc said:

I could be wrong here but that looks an awful lot like a fibreglass scratch brush, in which case I would recomend extreme caution in respect to exactly what you brush with it.

This type of brush is extremely aggressive and as such it is great for removing rust from steel parts or for imarting a fine grained effect on softer metals. However, if you use it on movement plates that are plated there is a good chance that you will go through the plating, and if you are trying to clean parts that have anything other than a brushed or straight grained finish to them, then you could very easily end up damaging the finish.

A good half way point between the very gentle artists brush and the aggressive fibreglass brush can be found in the toileteries aisle at the supermarket. Tooth brushes, especially the smaller childrens brushes, are great for hand cleaning movement plates, and for the more fiddly bits have a look for interdental brushes. These are like miniature bottle brushes and come in a variety of sizes from 0.4mm up to about 1.1mm (size of the wire core) and have relatively stiff nylon bristles, so they are really good for getting into all of the nooks and cranies.

And of course you can get your tooth picks at the same time.

You are quite right. I forgot that gmoodyii was new and he might not know how aggressive this type of brush could be,

gmoodyii

[jdrichard]

He suggested lighter fluid and a soft artist brush to clean, and isopropyl alcohol for the rinse. Using sharpened toothpicks to clean the jewels.

That is the way I would also suggest you go about starting. There is nothing out there better then a good proper watch cleaning machine. 

Do you need to do the rinse or can you just let the parts dry after cleaning with the lighter fluid?

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[jdrichard]

Great advice! My jewelers bench should arrive today, so I will have a better working surface to practice on.

I will be on the lookout for a brush like the one you described oldhippy, THANKS!

Where did you buy the jewelers bench?

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[oldhippy]

Lighter fluid evaporates very quick. You could get a blower which would help. Something like this.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/271265806231?lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=9045125&poi=&campaignid=207297426&device=c&adgroupid=13585920426&rlsatarget=aud-133395220866%3Apla-131843278866&adtype=pla&crdt=0

[jdrichard]

Is there any danger in just using lighter fluid and not rinsing the parts in alcohol after? This is what I have been doing!

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[vinn3]

i would say,  total dissasembly is the proper start to cleaning.  cleaning  solutions are a separate topic.  vinn

[jdrichard]

i would say,  total dissasembly is the proper start to cleaning.  cleaning  solutions are a separate topic.  vinn

I was assuming total disassembly and asking if I should rinse parts out with alcohol after hand cleaning each part with lighter fluid? Just wondering if the alcohol step is needed and why?

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[szbalogh]

18 minutes ago, jdrichard said:

I was assuming total disassembly and asking if I should rinse parts out with alcohol after hand cleaning each part with lighter fluid? Just wondering if the alcohol step is needed and why?

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 Ususally i make full hand cleaning with ear cleaning buds (for the plates) and toothpick (for the holes) dipped in dishloromethane. Finally all parts are rinsed in benzynum right before reassembly. Pallet lever and the balance (pallets and roller jewel are glued with shellak) are only treated with benzynum. 

[vinn3]

Quote

 

"hand  cleaning"   isopropel alchol will  generally clean all the metal.  if you have an ultrasonic cleaning tank  or  a watch "part"  cleaning machine;  use the solutions  they recommend.

[gmoodyii]

10 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Where did you buy the jewelers bench?

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http://www.amazon.com/Jewelers-Work-Bench-Metal-Drawer/dp/B0011565KC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

This is the bench I got. Arrived today and after assembly I am fairly impressed.

 

[jdrichard]

http://www.amazon.com/Jewelers-Work-Bench-Metal-Drawer/dp/B0011565KC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

This is the bench I got. Arrived today and after assembly I am fairly impressed.

 

Thanks for the link. The desk looks really nice. I wish I had the space for one.

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[AP1875]

Hi guys, 

I've been working on my first movement a 6497. I,ve taken it apart and put it back together quite a few times now following the guides and then without a guide. Really satisfying feeling once you get it back together. I had a few frustrating moments with the yoke spring and the incabloc shock assembly on the balance the first couple of times but i'm completing the assembly much quicker now.

Next, i would like to clean the movement. I can't seem to find information on it though. Most of the guides seem to either be using a machine which i don't have or just show clean parts ready to be assembled.

I remember in one of marks videos he used a blower to agitate the solution but that's all I've really found.

What is the solution used?

How long do you leave it in there for?

Thanks

[jdm]

3 minutes ago, AP1875 said:

What is the solution used?

You can use various types. Check http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/4324-greiner-cleaning-solution

 

[AP1875]

Ok thanks so i can use the Greiner solution with deironised/RO/pure water and rinse with just RO

I should have thought about this the other day as i have a cousins order arriving in a hour doh! 

Is there anything you can use that you can get from a supermarket or hardware store?

 

[jdm]

I use like many others use Isoprophylic Alchool. Just do not leave parts with shellac (pallets, some balance assembly) in it for a long time. 

[bobm12]

Hi AP,

My two cents: For the jewels and balance you can get away with naphtha (Ronsonol, etc) but it is better to use one-dip (traditional solution for those). For the other parts, I use L&R solutions in an ultrasonic. You can still use naphtha on those too if cleaning by hand (and a soft brush (?) ). 

Just remember that in an ultrasonic any flammable product is a hazard... although some people don't care about this "warning". Also, I usually stay away from water since it can cause corrosion on some parts...some people do use water. I will probably experimenting with Zenith products when my supply of L&R runs out, just to see the difference since they say it restores the original finish (!?)....

One important part is to peg the jewels to remove any gunk on them before cleaning. Do one clean and two rinses (the second rinse in fresh clean rinse solution). Dry thoroughly with blower...or keep them in their "cage" and use a hair drier carefully not to over heat...riskier. Inspect and finish drying if necessary with blower where needed. Don't forget to demagnetize before cleaning, specially if using a machine...then you would demagnetize after, again (although it might not be necessary, just peace of mind).

Cheers,

Bob

[AP1875]

Hi Bob, 

Thanks for your info, much appreciated. I ordered some IPA but thats going to take a while to get to me (apparently they don't like selling it in stores here because the kids will try and drink it! So, in the meantime i can get hold of some lighter fluid and clean my parts in that and then dry with a hair dryer. Is there anything i can,t clean with it by hand? Its a fairly new movement so not too gunky. I'm just practicing at the moment.

What is meant by one dip?

I have read that the L&R no fome is a good product but seems to be obsolete now, is there a replacement? After that rinse with l&r no3.

[jdm]

If the movement is not dirty e.g. a Chinese 6947 clone coming out from the factory dry like the desert sand, you don't have to worry much about cleaning and washing. It really depends on what are you working on.

One-dip is a wonderful marketing invention by the Swiss to sell you highly refined fossil fuel for 1,000 times the normal price.

[AP1875]

If the movement is not dirty e.g. a Chinese 6947 clone coming out from the factory dry like the desert sand, you don't have to worry much about cleaning and washing. It really depends on what are you working on.

One-dip is a wonderful marketing invention by the Swiss to sell you highly refined fossil fuel for 1,000 times the normal price.

Haha think I'll pass on the one-dip then..

Yeah it's just a Chinese clone movement I bought from eBay to practice on. As you say, it's dry as a bone. I don't think it has any oil on it! It's just a little grubby now because I've man handled it for the last week or so.

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[jdm]

Yes exactly AP. Cleaning watch movements, just like everything in life, is about evaluating the situation and acting flexibly as it's more appropriate. There is no fixed recipe for success.

[bobm12]

Hi AP,

I forgot to say that the cleaning cycle on the ultrasound is about 3 to 10 minutes depending on how dirty the movement is and what type of ultrasound machine you have...also, the One-Dip solution is a traditional watchmaker chemical for hairsprings and jewels mainly.

I didn't know that L&R was no longer available since my supplier still ships it to me. If you are in the US, check out ofrei.com. I use the "extra fine" for cleaning.

I hope this helps,

cheers,

Bob

[matabog]

one-dip is 99% tetra-clor-ethilene