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Everything posted by matabog

  1. the error is 1.4ms (not great, not terrible). 65 is the rate per day
  2. use a seringe to blow air into it through the case tube.
  3. also, please put a picture with the final result.
  4. No! there are dies in the set that fit the lower hole. I use an M6 screw to put a plastic die over an aluminium one (they will be held together by the screw)
  5. bbb8-bloc_final.scad please check the dimensions again! DO A TEST PRINT FIRST (to see if the watch fits)! install the font in the code
  6. Somewhere on this forum, a kind colleague of ours, posted pictures with the tool disassembled. I can't find the thread but I saved the pictures. Here is on of them:
  7. even a better price on ali Actually it is a screw type press. Rotating the round knob (or wheel - it is about 6cm in diameter) the working piece descends, without rotating. The tool provides a lot of control. You need M6-hole dies, which I suppose are standard.
  8. I have this one and it is very nice! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142718220541
  9. maybe one needs a new MS, maybe the bridle lost it's hardness. Use the old MS instead, the one that works. I don't think making the MS wall more rough is a good idea (in time).... What is the amplitude of the watch when the MS slips?
  10. the blades should have a lip at their inner end, at least mine do. They might loosen but they will not drop!
  11. lol that tip is like the nail on your finger! It's the one that counts! Without the canon pinion in place, the minute wheel turns freely
  12. that tooth did not break because of the canon pinion, imho. it interacts with the hour wheel. Maybe the minute and hour hands were interacting at a point in time...
  13. you need to open it to check the teeth of different parts: minute wheel, intermediate minute wheel, sliding pinion. You also need to check the propper sitting of the yoke spring.
  14. So you only changed the balance and hairspring? The graphs look very good! B
  15. Not to brag or anything... but my question about the arbors being too thick for some Mainsprings was featured in one of Marks videos. Bogdan
  16. try moving the balance on it's axle (not too much preasure in case it isn't shock proof :))) )
  17. from the picture I understand to oil only the posts. An not the reversers inner clicks! ok! good to know if I ever touch a 3035 :)) Again, thank you!
  18. I might have been wrong. I had the ETA reversers in my had. I think the rolex ones can be 'dismantled'. So after Epilame, where would you oil those reversers? And with what?
  19. I might be wrong but wouldn't one have to use Lubetta V105 on the reversers instead of Epilame?
  20. I now realize I underestimated you a bit... sometimes being eager to help, I don't process the entire post... I have only serviced one Landeron 48 and I learned the screws - this is an exercise I am doing - to learn what screw goes where... ...and now that I carefully read that you repaired (not serviced, repaired!) - several dozen Landeron 48's... That was a weak advice... I'll try to do better next time! But I now know where to go for Landeron advice
  21. Could you tell us a bit more about the repining you did? Was there a boot-leg to be redone? I mean in theory is so simple, but practice kill us all... Some pictures would be much appreciated!
  22. How is the amplitude? And the positional error. If those are fine, you nailed it!
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