Jump to content

AP1875

Member
  • Content Count

    303
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

AP1875 last won the day on September 19 2016

AP1875 had the most liked content!

About AP1875

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

Recent Profile Visitors

2,657 profile views
  1. Slight exaggeration yesterday, I was just feeling down because I've had problems with Chinese movements of late, it's not every movement. Most of them are 'new' when I service them so maybe the results won't improve drastically if they're already running fairly well purely based on the standards they are made to. Should 270 dial up and down be the standard for every movement even chinese ones? This is what I base my results on, with a target of 290-300. So where I'm disappointed with the results someone else might be happy with results that don't quite meet these targets. The movement in this thread obviously has some other issues (with the balance). I have serviced an eta 7750 and 28xx calibres recently and had no issues with my oiling.
  2. It's fairly simple. As I said in my first post. I have washed everything apart from the parts mentioned and reassembled it. You went off on a rant about my technique for oiling the escapement, which I told you wasn't the issue. I have confirmed this by swapping the balance. The problem is now isolated to this part, so I'm seeking assistance with that issue if anyone is kind enough to help. If you're just going to be passive aggressive I suggest you take your own advice and "see your way out of this discussion".
  3. I swapped the balance and these are the readings... Obviously miles better. So something must have happened to the other balance? I can't see a bent pivot, jewel looks OK, shock spring is still in place.it wasnt washed, literally removed placed in a dust free tray and then installed again. Any ideas? A question regarding the recent timegrapher. Do the spots indicate dirt on the pallet stones?
  4. Here are the timegrapher readings for dial down (181)and up (280) Same lubrication as before I haven't cleaned it yet. Something very bad is happening when dial down. I have not seen a difference so big in these two positions before. I moved the beat corrector all the way over as well. The watch is also stopping when turned dial down. I can start it again by hacking the balance and pushing the crown back in (sometimes) . Any suggestions? I don't think this watches issues are related to lubrication but what are your thoughts I might be wrong.
  5. Thanks for the advice. I was worried about the film. I found the isopropyl left some white residue on the parts. Which is why I moved to acetone, but I can't wash pallets or the balance for too long in it. I also have petroleum ether 80-100. Would you be able to recommend a product for me to try? I've never tried one of the ammoniated cleaning products. I could get some of the L&r fluid.
  6. Yep I will go at it again tomorrow. Most of these movements are already running around 250-260 amplitude some greater like this one. So I'm thinking maybe I can't expect them to perform much better due to the quality of them? Should I use the same benchmarks for a chinese clone as a Swiss made movement I.e 270 minimum dial up and down? Something is not right with this one though as I havent applied lubrication and there's an amplitude drop.
  7. My cleaning process will be peg wood all jewel holes and then place the parts into a screw type jewlery basket and the ultrasonic clean for 5 minutes in isopropyl. The balance and pallet fork i only submerge for a minute to prevent the shellac dissolving. i then dry with a hair dryer. Does this sound ok?
  8. will clean everything again tomorrow and give it another go and assemble dry see where i am and take it from there
  9. It's a 3135 the service sheet recommends epilame for the escape wheel and pallet stones haha
  10. As i said i didn't lubricate this movement. The end stones were already lubricated, and i didn't add anything to the escapement. I've basically done what has been suggested above (assemble dry/as it was) and i've lost a considerable amount of amplitude. Regarding the method of lubricating the escape wheel. Ive only started doing this in the last few months. The guy who instructed me to do it like this has done tutorials with Henrik Korpela who has one of the most prestigious schools in switzerland id like to think that says his methods are good/correct practice. Anyway that isn't the issue here because i didn't lubricate them. i have had success. Usually with ETA movements 28xx and 7750 movements. With chinese movements, i find it difficult to get very good results, they're usually the same or worse than when i started and it's very frustrating.
  11. I don't lubricate the pallet stones or pivots.. The epilame on the pallet fork wears groove after running for a few minutes, then you grease the escape wheel teeth, you have a perfect line/place for the tiniest amount of grease to sit. I do this under a microscope. Why would a swiss trained watchmaker who has done lots of brand training tell me to do this if it wasn't the correct method?
  12. in this instance i did not touch the mainspring. i use hp1000/1300, 9010, 9501 and 9415. i was taught to epilame the escape wheel and pallet stones. Run the movement for 10 minutes and then apply a tiny amount of grease to every 3rd tooth of the escape wheel. i did not do this on the movement mentioned above. I can't understand how a movement can be over oiled and dirty from China. I service it correctly using decent lubricants and it can be worse than when i started...
  13. Just so there's a small ring showing. Im confident I'm oiling movements correctly. I usually remove, clean and rewind the mainspring this one I didn't touch it..
  14. Guys, can you give me some pointers please, close to throwing the towel in here. I've been doing this for a couple of years now and I'm getting really frustrated with my progress. Literally every watch I service has worse results (or the same) than before I took it apart! And I'm starting to think what's the point, I want to succeed at this but it feels like a losing battle... For example the watch I'm working on right now a chinese clone movement. It is a brand new movement and was running at a solid 300 amp fully wound, keeps perfect time within a few seconds per day. I thought with this one I won't wash the balance/pallet fork/mainplate. Just to see if that makes a difference to my results. I washed the rest of my parts in my ultrasonic in some acetone (other times I use isopropyl or petroleum ether as recommended here). I've put it back together and dial up it's running at 270 and dial down 230. What could I have possibly done that's worse that the way these are assembled in China. There were a lot of random oil spots and they're generally assembled in dirty conditions. I've taken it apart again and cleaned the gear train again. Cleaned up the oil from the movement that was there when I took it apart. End shakes look good. Stones are lubricated. Gear train moves very freely when I turn the crown. I've done all of marks courses and the No Bs watchmaker course and understand how to service a movement but rarely see good results.. Any advice appreciated
  15. i bet those sets aren't cheap. i'm sure i can order individual ones from Cousins though. Next problem.... what is best best way to measure the inside diameter of a jewel, they're so small
×
×
  • Create New...