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AP1875 last won the day on September 19 2016

AP1875 had the most liked content!

About AP1875

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  1. The biggest problem i have with my microscope is that it is only really good for looking at a flat/still object. The DOF is so shallow that when i move the object i have to adjust the focus constantly. Does this microscope have the same issue? For example, if i wanted to look at a pallet jewel to check the lubrication as i move the pallet fork around with my tweezers, it will be out of focus unless i keep it at exactly the same distance from the lens which is very difficult to do.
  2. The watch seems fine now. Just so I know for the future if it was the length of the stem what is the most practical way of shortening it?
  3. So, I removed the movement again and reinstalled it. I ran it without the case clamps tightened down that was fine so tightened them slightly. Seems fine upto now. So it must've been something inside the keyless/stem? How does a keyless/stem affect amplitude? I can't visualise what's happening inside the movement. I'm not familiar with the term castle wheel, are you referring to the winding or sliding pinion?
  4. Thanks for your reply, There's no movement ring, so that's ruled out. I can remove the glass and see if it has the same problem ruling the hands out but the movement is held by clamps so I don't think it's anything I can see. Which is why I wanted to question the stem causing the issue inside the movement.
  5. I serviced a Chinese movement, has good results on the timegrapher. Installed it in the watch case and when I screw the crown down the amplitude drops off dramatically to 170-200. I assume this is due to the stem? However I'm not sure how the stem can affect amplitude and cause the watch to stop? Time grapher results without crown screwed down.
  6. Just trying to get my head around how this works. When the jaws (operated by the stop/start button and column wheel) are under the clutch and lifting it up - chronograph disengaged. Is the second wheel still turning part of the clutch?
  7. That guy from Sawta is very talented, i follow his schools instagram page, he comes across as a menacing genius. My other takeaway from that video is the practical aspect of greasing the barrel wall. Looks like you need a lot of grease and i imagine when you put your winder in it goes over the edges... I noticed in other threads you talk about 8217, unfortunately the links are broken. I have this grease, would this be an acceptable alternative to the p125? I'll post a picture when i've greased a barrel wall just to check i'm doing it correctly. I presume Mark doesn't grease the barrel wall of the movement in the video due to it being a manual wind.
  8. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I just tried it on a ceramic and it was so much easier than my last press. Does your Robur have a slight bit of play in the shaft or is it completely solid? I can wiggle this one ever so slightly but apparently it has had new shaft fitted.
  9. Sorry forgot to send the link. This is the set i have. I got the press and dies for less than the cost of the dies alone, way out of my budget otherwise. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/die-set-robur Would you use this press for a ceramic bezel?
  10. ahh ok i will use the flat die. I guess the only difference between the watch i'm swapping the glass on is you have to press down on the bezel and not the glass. The glass is already in position, the bezel holds it there. What are these black dies for? They look like they could snap very easily.
  11. I picked up a Robur press on ebay it came with the T31 die set. It was a fairly decent price. So I thought I'd give it a go considering the $10 one I've been using from ebay doesn't press straight. I just want to check what I'm using it for and how I'm using it is correct. The watch I want to fit a new crystal to has the following construction - crystal held in place with a plastic ring, the crystal is the fixed by pushing the steel bezel over it. So I put a metal die on the bottom of the press that the caseback will sit in and cover with a cloth to prevent damage. On the top I select a die that just fits around the crystal and rests on the bezel? The best fit die still has a little bit of room on both the bottom and top.
  12. Thanks for the links John, I will have a good read of them.
  13. I've been following Marks course and I am now playing around with the mainspring winders. I have a clone 3135 movement. I have lubricated the spring with 8200 by running some foam contaminated with grease over the spring (like he shows). However, I am wondering do i need to put grease all around the barrel wall? I'm sure I've seen people doing this before but is not done in this video. I only really work on the common automatic movements, do I use some grease 82xx to grease the wall of the barrel?
  14. Thank you for explaining your method seems very logical (if I have understood correctly) and no need for tools. Also, I realised if a tool was required Rolex would've made one and referenced it here as they do elsewhere. So tighten the screw so there is barely any endshake (which might mean the balance not moving) then slacken off and check on the tinegrapher as JDM suggests for optimal position.
  15. Reading through a service sheet for the Rolex Daytona and the movement has a 'regulation nut' under the balance bridge. You can adjust this to get the correct endshake. How is this measured? Is a special tool used?
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