oli

WRT Subscriber
  • Content count

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. Crystal Lift on eBay?

    i have an Anchor I purchased new from Cousins, and was pleasantly surprised given the low price, I find that it works very well.
  2. Hi all I thought I would update this thread. It has been a long time coming, but I made it in the end! I decided to make a bush using my newly setup watchmakers lathe. I must stress I am a complete novice on the lathe, but this actually made a very good practice exercise. You can read the full story with photos on my blog - Link I hope this will make interesting reading!
  3. Not another oil question

    I have read that 9415 is especially developped for high speed escapement, and can cause loss of amplitude on slower beat watches. For that reason, after a long time using only 9415 on pallet stones I have recently invested in 941/2. It is a lot thinner than 9415, but I can't say that I have noticed a difference in performance. I wanted to experiment with both on the same movement and measure the difference but haven't got arount to it yet.... As for the car clock, I have worked on a few and i used 9010 on the balance jewels, and D5/ HP1300 on the rest of the train with no issue, I could not justify yet another type of oil for this application, the clocks I was workin on were not exactly high end!
  4. Sorry about the link, pics were working only a few days ago, as Tmuir is saying it seems to be a recent issue with Photobucket. Apologies I should have checked before posting, I just copied it from my favourites!
  5. Ref the sunburst finish on the case, To do a perfect job, you need a lapping machine. Short of this, it is possible to achieve a reasonable finish with abrasive sticks. A basic jig will help keep the grain straight and concentric. There is an excellent thread on thewatchsite describing one approach to this. I have included a link below. http://www.thewatchsite.com/21-japanese-watch-discussion-forum/32439-work-progress-putting-freshness-back-now-added-how.html For what it's worth, I think I would leave that one alone, it doesn't look too bad at all. It is all down to personal preference. Personally I prefer a bit of wear with nice crisps edges to a refinished look.
  6. I think you are spot on, it looks exactly the same as a Citizen 1800 Thank you very much indeed!
  7. Would anyone know what this movement is? It comes from a Regency watch. The movement is 17 jewels, signed Regency, and is stamped "M 00" or "W 00" under the balance wheel Thank you very much in advance!
  8. Thanks Stuart, I am familiar the term chaton, I should have worked that out from Rogart's description!
  9. Thank you for the responses guys. The hole is so big I originally thought the bush was a setting for a friction fit jewel. If it was it certainly was not like that originally as it would make the movement more than 9 jewels... I have considered the lathe option, and if I cannot find any alternatives I will do just that. I am in the process of setting up a lathe (keeps being bumped at the back of the priorities list unfortunately!). I will need some practice first but this would actually make a very good exercise. Rogart63, it sounds like what you are describing could do the job, do you know where I can find those (I have not come across the term before) Many thanks indeed
  10. I am working on this lovely old waltham movement. The bush currently fitted to the 4th wheel is clearly incorrect, the diameter of the hole is much too large. I would like to replace the bush, but I cannot find any equivalent. I looked on the cousins website under watch bushes, and all the bushes I find with the correct size hole are too small in outside diameter, and when I find a suitable outside diameter then the hole in the bush is too large. No more luck looking at clock bushes. According to my measurements I need 2.50mm outside diameter, with a 0.30mm hole. I don't mind making small adjustment either to the bridge hole, or the new bush hole diameter, but so far all I have found is too far out. I would like to avoid using a friction jewel as I like to keep the watch design as intended. I would welcome any tips / guidance!
  11. Nice setup, I like that old varimatic in the background
  12. How high to bid

    Mainspring winders are a risky purchase on ebay (I am talking from experience!) Ideally you would want to check that the tooth on the winding arbour is in good condition. If worn, the winder is useless. can't really be checked on photos, and most sellers will not be able to answer the question unless they really know what they are selling. good luck in your search anyway, they certainly make life much easier!
  13. I can second that, i bought one a few months ago (with low expectations given the price) and it is doing just the job
  14. Could not agree more, not a good watch to get started on, they were not designed to be dismantled. It is possible to take them apart (I have done one before, stripping everything down except the parts riveted together), but you will find it difficult to put back together. On the one I worked on (see pic) all wheels were on the same plate (with no separate bridges so all wheels have to be perfectly aligned- not ideal for a novice) a good movement to start on would be a unitas / eta 6497, or chinese equivalent to keep cost down for reading, i would suggest Decarle' s Practical watch repairing, i come back to it all the time!