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I think these yellow things are great. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/compartment-tray-revolving They stack on top of each other and you only need to uncover the compartment you're working with.

Longines Super Thin 1970, caliber 428, 17J

Battery and crystal change for 100% bio local produce. I'm happy, what do you think?

hey my name is John, i'm 58 and in North Carolina. just joined to find resources and get educated on this cool hobby

Today is perhaps my favorite; CWC RN Diver mk1 automatic. Nice and simple and it fits my wrist especially well.

Don't you find it odd that it's slow? As usual better pictures are needed but if you don't want to try to fix it and just want to throw money at the problem no problem except? This is a watch repair discussion group wouldn't you like to try to fix it first? Or at least evaluate what you did beyond it doesn't keep time We need a better picture looking straight down and a picture looking In sideways. Then there is a minor problem? Removing the balance wheel and putting it back in for the most part is relatively easy. Removing the balance wheel from a etachron system bridge requires some skill otherwise you're going to need a replacement replacement balance complete. As it will take a little bit a practice to do this without destroying the new balance. It might be fun if we can see if we can help you fixed what you have now. If for nothing else it gives you experience with working with the balance working with the hairspring and improves your odds of replacing it if that's really is necessary. Then there is a possibility that they might build help you fix it. But I can't tell from the picture attached which is zoomed the end of the picture you have.

Issues can easily be created if you go to remove the stem. I just lift the palstic movement retaining ring, grab a part of the stem in long nose pliers, unscrew the crown, lift the movement out with the stem attached as you slide the stem out from inside the case. And; Welcome to the forum. Good luck.

There's no harm in using cement with a standard non-tension ring acrylic crystal, other than the potential to make a mess to clean up afterwards if it doesn't go quite right, but, assuming we're talking about round crystals, a correctly sized crystal doesn't require cement. The rebate that it fits in to is slightly conical so that the top is fractionally smaller than the bottom. This matches the slightly tapered sides of the crystal. The diameter of the correctly sized crystal is fractionally larger than the widest part of the rebate so that once installed the crystal will always be in compression. This not only creates a tight seal between the edge of the crystal and the rebate, it also forces the base of the crystal into contact with the seat in the rebate. The design also locks the crystal in place so it can't fall out.

The watch of the day for me is my father-in-law's 1957 Bulova Sea King, not be confused with Seamasters of the same vintage lol. After he passed we had it serviced and it runs very well. It was given to my eldest son who wore it for awhile until he decided that 32mm was too small for his muscular early-20s shot-putter's "guns" (arms). I keep it in the rotation on my wrist, patiently ticking away the seconds until he decides that is is cool again; maybe a few decades form now. Then it will return to him.

Todays find. $425 plus $25 to help me put it in the truck. Came with a Moseley foot pedal lathe and other goodies. I'll post more photos as I go through things. It came out of Otto E. Loven Optometrist and Jeweler"s store in Forest Park Ill. Phone forest 115.

I thought I'd like to share with you the first watch that I bought which kickstarted my obsession. It's an IWC Borgel cased officer's trench watch dated 1916 with a Cal 64 movement. The dial has faint lettering for an Edinburgh retailer and I haven't been able to decipher the initials on the back.

Hello, I bought a hammer cam jumper for a Buren 12 as a spare part. Unfortunatly it seems there are two versions of it out there and on the part I got the hole in the middle is missing. I have a drilling machine but never worked on watch parts with it so far. So two questions: For a hole of 0.5 or 0.8 which rpm shall it be? I found tables speaking of 15000 to 20000? Should I use any cooling fluid? Which one and how? Any help and further comments highly appreciated.

Nice find

Not only did it come with the mandatory mouse in the top draw it had a squirrel complete with acorns in the bottom draw.

That's terrific! Look up Joe Collins. He's one of those guys with the gifts of natural mechanical ability to repair or build anything and with people skills to share with all.

This is why I no longer discouraged people starting on Rolex watches or family heirloom watches or any of the other things people like the start on. Because it seems to be really hard to convince people that may be watch repair isn't as easy as they think. So disasters are definitely good things in watch repair the more expensive the better. Having your family forever Never forgiving you for destroying great-grandfathers watch or breaking your Rolex seems to be a good lesson. Although the last person with a Rolex did succeed. That's the purpose of these lessons don't discourage people from doing this. Without painful lessons and killing off a few people how would the world ever learn?

Super. I found them. I will generate a set of 3D files of the critical pieces based on the drawings.

It is one of the most utilitarian tools I have other than a screwdriver. I have repaired many things around the house by printing replacement parts. I have also created many tools and add-ons to other tools. There is a huge repository of designs that others have done on the internet. I love to make my own stuff--do the 3D design but when I find someone has made what I need, I download and print!! Below I show a picture of a 3D printed fully functional escapement that built three or so years ago. It is a wonderful demonstration of how the escapement works.

Is there a male locating pin to enter the hole you will drill ? Challenging to located the hole without proper tooling.

Hi There is no reason why some of the parts cannot be done on a 3Dprinter all you have to remember is the strength the spring has when coiled.

Another shiny object! LOL. I could not resist pondering a 3D printed solution for some of the parts. I don't have the plans...just taking a SWAG at what I see on the youtube videos. Here is one of the slides. The mate for the slide is a trivial design and print as well. I just quickly laid out this piece.

No fluid is needed. Small bits need high speed to give the bit the most momentum and prevent it from catching and breaking, just use what you have even if it breaks there will be no problem removing it.

Yup. I posted them and have them saved on my laptop as I plan to build one myself.

Hi All I'm a complete novice to watch repairs, but have always been interested in Horology. I am hoping to gather decent tools and a few old watches to start on. Now that we all have a bit more time at home due to these tough times, I commit more time to this fascinating new hobby. Look forward to talking to you all. Kevin Chalmers

The lesson from that must be to let the power off before doing any kind of work. It is just a good habit to get into until you know exactly what you can get away with. You wouldn't work want to adjust the timing or fan belts on a car while the engine was running unless you know the whys and wherefores! Careful is always better. But, as I've been told many times, you can't read experience from a book. Sometimes a good (usually expensive) lesson is learned from a disaster.

The first link has information about your watch. The second link has your pusher available brand-new. As an added bonus they list the part number 086ST4907. Unfortunately just because you have the part number doing a search doesn't mean you're going to build get one anywhere else. One of the material houses that comes up appears to be wholesale only. Cousins lists it as typically Omega is parts restricted. https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-seamaster-classic-md-196-0280?tmod=1 http://www.ofrei.com/page989.html

Are you sure you have messed up the hairspring? A close up of the coil as is installed from the top view helps.

Press in when a nylon gasket or tension ring keeps the crystal firmly in place. Otherwise use cement.

these are from 1977 - should be the same -

They started making clocks in 45 and yours was discontinued in 59, however i cannot see as when the models were introduced so we have no from date. (i have not read the whole book yet though)

Hi Timex 104 manual attached. Hope its the one you want can't find the 114. 104 (1).pdf

Hi Mike That was designed for the 400day/anniversary clocks but with the right retainers will remove other clock springs, The DIY versions of which I have built two and moose has built one do the job admirably, Fusee clock springs need a beefier version

In the 'Bay today

I have used the little plastic pots with plastic top too. Still do for certain jobs. And I have experienced some static cling. But I find myself using these bait trays from Plano $2 USD more often and they are sold as static free. They work. I add little post-it notes for part ID and I too, take tons of pictures who I then give to the owner as part of the description of what was done to the watch. People seem to like that and are fascinated by what I explain combined with the pics I give them. I put the pics on a flash drive and give it to them. Most say they've never seen anything like it and never thought twice about what goes on inside or what it looks like. Love their reactions. The trays and dividers are adjustable.

Well, some people said that my posts are useless and the only aim is to win every day. I say, they are wrong. I am simply learning from others and trying to help some people during difficult pandemic lockdown / curfew / social distancing / 14 days isolation time... But thinking of winning... Hmm. Is there any chance to receive The Order of Zolfaghar?

Thank you Kevin for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Seiko meca quartz movement. Quite impressed for £50

Imado 1970s AS 2600 movement. Love the instant day/date change in this model, very un-Seiko like. Grey/brown dial. Plated brass case.

I think at this point it is clear that there will be no change in the current "no sales" policy. Personally I do not see the need for that or for ranking members. So, again: If you need a part or tool, it's OK to post about it, any offer must be in PM or even better email. If you wish to give away something that is welcome anytime.

Today it is a CWC G10 from 2016 that I got in bits and without a dial. I had an older T lume dial that looks very nice. The old seconds hand was broken and the hour and minutes hands we also in rough shape and didn't sit especially well on the wheels. These are a fairly close replacement and look much nicer.

The English Patient...

Hello Kevin and welcome to the forum. attached two documents you might find interesting to read. 1831920544_ToolsfortheHobbyist.pdf TZIllustratedGlossary (1).pdf

Hi Kevin, welcome to the forum.

Hi Kevin, welcome here.....Ebay is great for getting used tools and some watches. I would suggest to get good tweazers like A&F or Bergeon, and some old pocket watches for practising.

You can always fantasize about this. Then throw money at the problem and find out whether it actually fits or not or do some research and get hopelessly confused. Then totally ignore the research and just Ask the question again and the answer is probably no it will not fit. Let's look at the above message by watchweasol. He gives you a link and the same PDF that I give you. His link is to and I think you should click on the link and go there and look at it. You need to get experience in doing this. His link is for the CORT 536. The material systems usually shorten the name of the company typically three digits not 4 like this which leads to confusion later in the discussion. In any case you go the link you get the list of parts. Then you can click on each of the part names and get the cross reference. You'll notice that there is a pallet fork and there's a pallet fork arbor separate. In case you don't go there I snipped out the images below. But we run into a problem I don't see the 534 In either of the cross reference lists? This is where it's time to fall back and look at the PDF and figure out what's really going on? Plus going to the Beginning of the website and looking up 534 which is listed with no parts? But this gives us an answer it's really a base caliber of 526. Some watches have base calibers they start with the basic watch add a calendar perhaps day date etc. then the parts listing for each of those watches would only list the difference and send you back to the base Caliber. This means were looking for a pallet fork for a 526. Then I'm giving you the link for the 526 below but that presents a problem? The problem is the pallet fork arbor is listed the same pallet fork arbor this listed at the above link but there is no pallet fork? This is where I usually do additional research with bestfit. Down below I have a link where you can buy the PDF it's well worth buying. Then they do have a website version no pictures and that sauce a fee and I snipped out images of all of that. Physical bestfit book is a wonderful book to have anyone that has it should thumb through it from time to time because are so much stuff in there you tend to forget all the wonderful stuff. But the basic of the book is you can look up your calibers and get some basic parts. You can also use the fingerprint system. Suppose you don't know which watch you have then you need the physical size and the setting parts. This makes up the fingerprint system I snipped out the section of the book which should correspond your watch. That's where the PDF that both of us attached up above notice it has the setting parts it's basically one page to help you identify that this indeed is your watch. Then the online bestfit system gets confusing. This is because normally to use this you need to have three letters that corresponds the abbreviation of the caliber you have. I have a cheat sheet for that that lists them out unfortunately your manufacturer is not listed? The site that we got all the part numbers from listed as four letters. Whereas I'm supposed to three. So what I did was to take the part numbers of the pallet fork and separate arbor and look up the cross reference which I'm attaching also. Then I find out that they're using a three digit code that also corresponds to another watch which is really weird. But the most part 534 does not exist in their if it does it has some other numbers associated with it. There are no pallet forks for the 534 or the 526 exactly what both cross references show. The arbor though does cross reference it indicates that it should work. You'll notice when you look at the arbor cross reference across references to lots of watches because this is basically a generic component. Unfortunately you need tools to put it in that you probably don't have. Then yes it is conceivable that one of those pallet forks might actually work in your watch and may be? One of the problems for people knew in watch repair is the assumption that all the parts lists service manuals etc. exist and they do not. Sometimes there's lots of information for various watches and other times like this is almost nothing. So basically we don't know but based on what we have it doesn't look like it cross-references. Base caliber reference http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=CORT_526 Bestfit book source https://mccawcompany.com/product/bestfit-encyclopedia-books-111-111a-digital-download-pdf-version/ Cross reference website http://cgi.julesborel.com/

Its Big 'Q' Timex Thursday today. This 404 club watch is most probably late seventies or perhaps early eighties. Either way it is not far shy of forty years old and still going strong. It wasn't a particularly cheap watch in its day, retailing for around £34.95 GBP which equates to about £157.00 today.

I keep wearing this:

In order to maintain a healthy and friendly community there are some restrictions for new members as well as benefits for those who contribute the most to this forum. It has occurred to me - or rather, been pointed out to me that I have never really made the details clear. And for that I apologise and I hope this post will be helpful. All members will find their current forum status in the left pane of any content they post on the forum (non-mobile) or by clicking on their display name to view their profile. MEMBER LEVELS NEW MEMBERS (Zero to 9 Posts) New members can post immediately and have access to most areas on the website. New members cannot customise their signatures New members cannot create polls but can participate and vote New members can edit their own posts within 10 minutes of posting that content New members can report posts to moderators New members can start up to 2 private messages per day and to a maximum of 1 recipient per message - with a 50 message storage quota New members are automatically promoted to full Members when they have posted more than 9 times and have gained reputation (*). MEMBERS (10 to 99 Posts with positive reputation *) Members can customise their signatures (**) Members can create polls as well as participate and vote in other member polls Members can edit their own posts within 3 Hours of posting that content Members can start as many private messages per day as needed and to a maximum of 5 recipients per message - with a 150 message storage quota Members are automatically promoted to Advanced Members when they have posted more than 99 times and gained 50 or more reputation points (*). NEW: ADVANCED MEMBERS (100+ Posts With 50+ Reputation *) Advanced Members can customise their signatures (***) Advanced Members can edit their own posts within 3 Days of posting that content Advanced Members can start as many private messages per day as needed and to a maximum of 5 recipients per message - with a 200 message storage quota Patrons and Supporters gain the same privileges as Advanced Members * Reputation is gained when you post content and other members react to that content - you can see your current reputation score within your info-pane, under your avatar. ** Members are allowed up to 1 link in their signature which MUST follow the forum rules and up to two lines of text. To keep the board clean we do not allow images in signatures. *** Advanced Members are allowed up to 2 links in their signature which MUST follow the forum rules and up to four lines of text. To keep the board clean we do not allow images in signatures. RANK TITLES Ranks are just a bit of fun to acknowledge your level of participation on this forum. It is mostly based on your post count. Your forum rank is displayed in the Info Pane of any post you submit on the forum and your rank is displayed under your Display Name. WATCH ENTHUSIAST - 50 Posted Content Items WRT ADDICT - 100 Posted Content Items SUPER WRT ADDICT - 500 Posted Content Items After you have posted 500 content items you will be able to customise your own Rank Title to display under your Display Name DISTINGUISHED MEMBER - 1000 Posted Content Items If you have any questions regarding the above then please post your thoughts below and I will try my best to answer.

My 1971 Seiko 6105 - 8810. Just recieved new waffle straps in the mail and wanted to see what they look like. Not bad I must say.

I'm waiting for a 20mm Milanese bracelet for the Timex LED I showed recently. This watch for all its simplicity is actually quite striking, and both fun and enjoyable to wear. In the meantime I popped it on a nice padded chestnut leather band, which is so comfy I may use the Milanese for something else.