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Hi, your 6R15 needs a service.

I think in the reality of the situation he is an extreme trouble the Rolex secret police will be after him soon he's in violation the specifications the entire world will come apart because of this. I specifically asked my question because I was curious if he understood all the timing specifications? Then what makes you think their lubrication's are alien technology to you have any proof? For my understanding some of their lubrication's suck which is why even Rolex people don't use them.. Then the 300° I was quoting from a Rolex technical specification I'm assuming they're concerned about too much amplitude. Personally had given a couple of days and it's probably several down and be just fine

Maybe the below will help. Sorry, but 177° is not nearly enough. An acceptable minimum could be 220° in all positions for type of Seiko mov't. Please be aware that unless you manage to work to high/professional standards is unlikely to expect perfect or even good performances by a beginner. Any type of regulator works at the heart of the blalance/escapment system, by touching, almost touching, or not touching one or both pins. Please have a read of some watchmaking book, or search and browse here around about this often discussed subject.

One of the problems with your watch is it has a balance jewel protection system. This means the likelihood of you breaking the pivot through normal use is nearly impossible. But for reassembly it's a problem in that you have to get the balance pivots through a relatively tiny hole. the lower one usually isn't a problem it's the upper one where it's easy to get it off to the side it might even still spin to some degree but tightening the bridge screw down very bad if it's not where it's supposed to be.. I thought for the future just remove the entire upper jewel assembly which are going to have to do to lubricated anyway. Then you can see that your pivot is where it's supposed to be before you tighten the bridge screw down..

timing machines are interesting devices which can tell you all sorts of wonderful information. for instance I'm attaching a PDF tells it all kinds of nifty information. But reality is the timing machine points you in the direction like this watch needs servicing. Or another way to think about timing machines like interpreting a crystal ball some interpretation is required and if everyone on this group looked at your timing machine like a crystal ball we would all have possibly different interpretations perhaps. In other words it's not always an exact science. then the power fluctuations like that things like the mainspring if there's sticky grease old grease that results in uneven power that will give you fluctuations. yyou will notice in the PDF is that it's for a paper tape machine. Everything should be more or less the same except if you're looking for gear train problems it's hard to see on a liquid crystal screen it's much better if your machine is spinning out paper.. Or you get an entirely different machine there's better ways to look for gear train problems unfortunately the machine I'm thinking of is really expensive so that's no help at all in this discussion. So they are simplistic is it points general direction of your watch looks bad servicing is probably required especially if it hasn't been serviced in a long time. Then when using your machine it helps to establish a procedure. Like you wind the watch up wait about 1530 minutes then time and usually dial up or dial down and for crown/pendant positions allowing time when changing positions for the thing to settle down then try not to get obsessed with all those positions it just a good way of looking for problems. But don't get obsessed about your watch keeping time to one second all positions.. Timing-Machine-Charts.PDF

Is this a beautiful movement or what!! Asking for a friend. 40A3865A-D85E-4647-A8DD-7281E4E37282.mp4

Will do, it will be stripped down again and done on my staking tool mate

let's think about this as standard watch repair which is don't jump to conclusions it could be lots of things. Then as pointed out above other methods of repair. That is after you verify this really is the problem. I was looking at this a little different way providing you don't have sentimental value and because you paid so little for it then what do you have the lose trying to service it yourself? That is after you verify that it does not need a bushing or a jewel or something in it looks like it's a straight cleaning then you can do it yourself or at least try and if you break it what you have the lose? then I really can't remember from memory but the picture below makes it look like the part is a bushing it comes out more than likely it can be replaced. Maybe do some research see if anyone will tell us which jewels replace it with or how they did it that is providing it does need to be replaced you need to verify that first https://www.thewatchsite.com/threads/7548-7000-fixup.106097/

That will cost much more of the watch's value and there is an high chance that if your diagnosis is correct, they will return it and you still have to pay an inspection fee. This is the world of watchmaking, either learn yourself, or be prepared to pay big money even for "sentimental value" pieces.

First of all it has to be verified that the hole is ovalized, under a loupe or microscope. And then if it is, a brass bushing can be fitted, which has the advantage of being an easier job (for a competent watchmaker) as the part can be manufactured at the shop, no issue locating a correct size.

No Its Seiko Epson unit but they all change there or there about I have seen some that start a 11.45 and complete about 12 15. It takes a little while for the wheel to over come the the detent on the up hill path and then snaps in on the down path.

I agree, that's normal. I've come to the conclusion that a lot of watch companies have the date change start before midnight because you already know the date. Quick Google search showed that the movement probably does not cost more than $20 so I wouldn't expect it to having instantaneous change. Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

Hi According cousins uk list this movement is obsolete so a replacement movement like for like seems an up hill task. Both Esslingers and Jules Borel dont have it listed either. There may be other movements that will replace the obsolete unit. Or a donor unit from ebay and swap the worn bridge. I have enclosed the tech sheet for the 7548A 3128_Seiko 7548A (1).pdf

just a really nice 21 J railroad grade pocket watch.. It would be really nice to have the serial number then I can get you additional information..

I Would say normal, My Lorus quartz does exactly the same.

I'll post mine in date order, the next oldest being this JDM 'QR' 3862-7010, from November 1973...

I doubt that anyone will post up a picture of their 1969 Seiko Quartz on here as the only one that fits that bill is the original Astron and there are very few of them about..... Here's my earliest, August 1972 3803-7040....

Are all co-axials of chrono grade? I guess co-axial service bites wallets more. I like your taste. I am growing fund of co-axial.

The depreciation on breitling is the worst of the worst, the inner sensible adult in me would find it difficult to commit to the brand because of this personally. But sometimes we think with the heart on these matters. Sent from my Mi 9T Pro using Tapatalk

If rate fluctustions correspond to the period of any wheel in the train, you'd know where to inspect visually or conduct further test. When you wind, a stronger impulse gets generated at escape-fork mech, hence larger amplitude, so suspecting weak mainspring is generally acceptable. Interpretaion of TG readings is usually not as easy as above.

Wow that's amazing what a great collection.

Well looks like a broken pivot as we can all see, you must have not seated the balance properly before screwing it down which is why it doesn’t look even which was pointed out by John...which is was what I thought to begin with.

IIRC, the center-wheel arbor has a bit of relief in it where the canon pinion dimple rides. I suspect that the canon pinion is not all the way down on the arbor, i.e., the arbor not well through the canon pinion. You'd best support the bridge side of the center arbor while you tap down the canon pinion. I could be wrong, but that type canon pinion seems to work that way. Good luck.

What, no SARB?

Your photo is not that clear, but unfortunately it looks like you have lost your top pivot. It should be the same as the bottom pivot.

Nice years ago I made a jarrah bench for my workshop, (just a workshop bench, not a watchmaker's bench) used a thicknesser to get the jarrah all to the same size and then hand planed the bench top flat once glue up, my wrist hurt for a week. My wife walked into my workshop and asked me when I was making her a kitchen table like that. I told her 'Never'. Your watchmakers bench is coming along nicely.

Looking good Sparky, quite a professional look to it well done. Dont make it too good the misses will want some furniture doing

Much better after running for 10h! [emoji846][emoji846] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

All working perfect now. Everything was good all the time. After I test the motion work with power on the mainspring everything behave as expected and all working perfect! Really happy to accomplish my first amateur Rolex service!! Bit error is at zero but amplitude is a bit low at 275'. I think amplitude might not be great because I'm not really good at lub the jewels on the pallet fork and made a bit of a mess with the Moebius 9415. Thanks again for all the fantastic support.

Got to have a look anyway... Thanks for the tip! BTW, I believe you are 100 % right about gold. Those with a bit of gold will survive when worst comes to worst. The entire global financial system with fiat money is going to collapse sooner or later and I worry it will be sooner rather than later. So bullion is probably the safest investment you can make.

Hi VW I have a philosophical comment and I hope it is taken with blithe to all at WRT. I am 66 years of age and if I have learnt one thing life at the this side of 50 races by. So if you want a luxury watch to adorn your wrist and you will get pleasure from it go buy it. You will as you get older regret that you didn't if you really would like to see one on your wrist. There are many things I wish I had done when my body was in a more youthful state and yes I do regret not fulfilling some of them. I hope if you can and you want to, you will.

If you want some advice on what to spend your 3000 bucks on....Its very simple even in a recession....GOLD You will never lose and when the recession is over you can buy a dozen 'luxury watches'

In general, I'm not a fan of luxury items. As has been mentioned above, paying extra for a name, when nothing else is special, doesn't sit well with me. Your specific watch doesn't have magic dust or Unicorn poo inside and it isn't powered by unobtanium. It's powered by the venerable and somewhat ancient (base design is nearly 70 years old) ETA 2824-2. Not that an automatic watch needs to contain bleeding edge mechanical technology to be good or a quality design, but for me, if nothing unique or significant is inside, then it doesn't deserve a luxury price tag. I used to think similarly about extreme luxury watches, ones costing hundreds of thousands to millions of dollars until I learned the labor involved in building them. In some cases 1 watch is built by one watchmaker over the span of a year, sometimes longer. Each and every part is hand crafted and hand fit. That is truly extreme craftsmanship that has earned an extreme price tag. In the end however, it's all about you. If you feel the money you will be spending on this watch and the prestige it will hold for you are worthy, then by all means. Having said all of this, I too have a luxury watch on my wish list. It even costs a bit more than the Breitling. It's an Omega, Planet Ocean 600m ref:215.32.44.21.01.001 For me, the $4500 price tag is totally justified. I'm sure this seems hypocritical given everything I've said previously, and to that I say, yes it is, but I'm ok with it, lol.

Bit neater than usual. The superglue and file were not used on watches! I promis

I too struggled until I carved some pegwood in to a tool as shown by @jdm The smaller one's used by Seiko on the gear train are the really fiddly ones - it's not easy to make a tool that small.

I hate these newer springs..the older 3 lobed ones were so much better. Anilv

I was playing (that's how I call it) with a Seiko 2206A - smallest automatic movement I've handled so far. And of course my cheap tweezers snapped and the hollowed jewel flew "somewhere". After half an hour kneeing around the kitchen I decided to try a hollowed jewel from a russian Wostok. Don't be surprised when I am telling you it worked. Not COSC obviously, but for just playing, it worked. So then I continued. And of course, it was "that day"... and the clutch wheel also flew away, somewhere behind me, with a metallic sound... After another 30 minutes of kneeing with my trusworthy cheap led flashlight... I was full of resentment. I gathered my tools, put the movement back in the cheap organizing box and left the kitchen.... But I am trying to make a point, not only make you laugh! I returned after 30 minutes of watching tv - actually calculating trajectories and probabilities of ever finding those two little things again, And I decided to sweep the entire kitchen. And I **BLEEP** you not: I found those two in the (small) pile of dirt. So, my advise: Sweep your work area and cross your fingers! Your Lower jewel didn't dissapear to the other side... it lies somewhere around you and laughs... a diabolic laugh - at least that's how I imagine it.

I'm getting back to this project. I decided tht I want to include as many real Rolex parts as I can get my hands on. Also over time I can replace non authentic parts with real ones as I find them. I decided that I definetly want a eal patina GMT dial to start. I see the Master series I are very expensive but teh Master II's are in the <$500 range with damage. Any guidelines for identifying fake dials vs real? Posts in the back and their location? markings on the back of the dial? Features on front? for example what are the correct time periods for "T<25" vs "Swiss Made" at the base? Are the Master I dials all with circle markers that are not outlined in metal and the Master II has the silver outlined markers? ( I don't think they are called nipples unless they protrude. Thanks, Adam

While I'm usually inclined to agree with statements like this... it's pretty much a moot point since I have already sat down and lectured on how the Europeans needed to navigate west so they required the time of day, but it's impossible on a ship rolling on the waves to use a pendulum swing to keep time so the marine chronometer was born then the whole program overhauled less than two hundred years later since technology advances so fast it's tripping over itself we bicker about leap seconds since our atomic time is supposedly more accurate than celestial time nowadays, to me, it's a shame that the mechanical movement could not have a more prominent place in our history before leaving it behind She's cool with a mechanical watch precisely because I won't shut up about them, and she does like watching the rotor spin around. You could say I have made her prejudiced against quartz watches now.